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Biggy2moto 02-16-2013 11:28 PM

Electrical issue
 
So I have a 1997 jeep wrangler with the 4.0L. I am having a serious problem with my jeep because it won't start. I took out my alternator and had it checked at autozone and they said it was bad so I got a new one. My jeep will start sometimes, but other times it won't.

When I put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position nothing comes on, no dash light, no radio. I have a dim flicker of the hand brake on the dash but hats it. It won't crank, it wonk click, nothing!! But if I sit there for a about 10 minutes and try it it again. It starts right up like nothing was wrong.

Need help please! Where do I start?

Mr Mac 02-17-2013 08:32 AM

Have you looked at the wiring to the ECM to make sure it isn't starting to deteriorate or has loose wiring? Check all connections and plug assemblies.

1979WagoneerLTD 02-17-2013 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biggy2moto (Post 3378866)
So I have a 1997 jeep wrangler with the 4.0L. I am having a serious problem with my jeep because it won't start. I took out my alternator and had it checked at autozone and they said it was bad so I got a new one. My jeep will start sometimes, but other times it won't.

When I put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position nothing comes on, no dash light, no radio. I have a dim flicker of the hand brake on the dash but hats it. It won't crank, it wonk click, nothing!! But if I sit there for a about 10 minutes and try it it again. It starts right up like nothing was wrong.

Need help please! Where do I start?

You should start with:

Check your high-current connections at the battery, along with the grounds to the engine and chassis and the high-current connection to the starter and underhood fuse and relay center. They should be free of corrosion, secured tightly to their respective terminal post or lug. The wire-ends should not be frayed where they are swaged into the connector.

You should have the battery tested, preferably load tested to 50% of its cold cranking amperage output. Most battery sales stores/auto parts counters will test your battery using a digital signal generator that is handheld and accurate for warranty claims purposes, but loading the battery/charging/starting system while testing (voltage drop testing) is the most reliable method to figure-out where your (likely) open is.

Could be as simple as a loose connection at a battery terminal or starter, which could be intermittent. Could be a starter soleniod that is failing. The alternator is responsible for system charging, thus would not directly affect vehicle cranking.

Wattapunk 02-17-2013 11:05 AM

Probe your ignition wires at the ignition switch for 12 volts with key on. It sounds like your ignition switch is failing.

Biggy2moto 02-17-2013 10:57 PM

Thank you everyone for giving me those tips. I solved the problem with your help everyone. The terminals were nice and tight on the battery posts,but weren't making good contact. So I got some 100 grit sandpaper and roughed up the posts and the terminals. It worked!!! :-)

I diagnosed it with my power probe.

SeVeReDiStOrTiOn 02-17-2013 11:05 PM

Spray some of that battery terminal corrosion inhibitor on when you get a chance..it'll prevent that.


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