Jeep Wrangler Forum

Jeep Wrangler Forum (http://www.wranglerforum.com/)
-   YJ Build Forum (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f330/)
-   -   Torx bolt problems... (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f330/torx-bolt-problems-223885.html)

superdiver 02-27-2013 01:34 PM

Torx bolt problems...
 
I am replacing a bunch of old rusty parts on my 89 YJ. But am having a heck of a time getting out the torx bolts.... i keep breaking the torx sockets...

any tips on how to get these bad boys out effectively??

tylerf83 02-27-2013 01:39 PM

weld a nut on and use a socket or wrench worked well for me

superdiver 02-27-2013 06:18 PM

LOL.. thats exactly what I have been doing.. but it sucks to have to do that.. i was hoping for "the silver bullet" "the magic trick" "the trade secret"

All I had was beer, boredom, and a welder... thats a DANGEROUS combination!

173ABN VN 02-27-2013 06:32 PM

use liberal amts. of pb blaster...russ

superdiver 02-27-2013 07:42 PM

pb blaster?

not heard of that... what is it?

Tom62 02-27-2013 08:02 PM

PB Penetrating Catalyst

Dang good stuff on rusty bolts!

BlueRidgeYJ 02-27-2013 08:03 PM

Better
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industri.../dp/B0002NYBH8
Best
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....roup_ID=675450

Or just get these http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all and pick up the exrractors elsewhere.

Left hand bits are the 'trade secret' to broken bolt removal. They cut in "reverse", which also tends to unscrew the bolt before the extractor is needed. When drilling, use machinist cutting fluid or distilled water to cool the bit, do not use wd40 for any part of it. Use PB, as said, on the threads. When using an extractor, work it slowly. For every 1/2 turn or so it should be turned back (tightened) about a 1/4 turn.

90DesertTanYJ 02-28-2013 08:51 AM

When I did my door hinge torx, I sprayed them with PB every day for a week and used an 18V impact each day for a little bit until they gave up. Just be careful to hold the impact straight and keep pressure on it so it doesnt strip out the head. After they strip, welding a nut on is about the best option. Not only do you get something to grab on, the heat from the welding will help loosen the bolt.

OverkillYJ 02-28-2013 10:28 AM

Just hit the with this. That thing breaks all kinds of stuff free for me. That and a little PB.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648...=impact+driver

Garyk 02-28-2013 11:39 AM

If you have a "good" torx bit, try an impact driver ( the kind you hit with a hammer) works for me..

superdiver 02-28-2013 12:37 PM

I have been using an air impact wrench, the torx inserts keep breaking

Also, most the nuts are still covered with paint.. how do I get the pb to the threads?

OverkillYJ 02-28-2013 12:44 PM

You need a hammer impact driver. It is a must for stuck torx unless you want to end up using EZ outs.

bc3_Jeep 02-28-2013 12:48 PM

Air impacts ARE NOT as good as manual impacts for this..... ask ANY old motorcycle guy..... we used it for PHILIPS head bolts for years....... works just as well with TORX..... I pull stuff apart all the time on my Jeeps with my Impact Driver...... bought it at Sears over 25 years ago.......

and... if you can get it.... KROIL is way better than PB Blaster..... proven in lab testing....

and..... you MAY have to break the paint seal to get ANY of these products into threads....

Craftsman Impact Driver - Tools - Mechanics & Auto Tools - Automotive Specialty Tools

CHL 02-28-2013 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tylerf83 (Post 3428529)
weld a nut on and use a socket or wrench worked well for me

I tried that this morning & it worked. Can't believe I'd never thought of that before. :doh: :facepalm:

Thanks Tyler.

superdiver 02-28-2013 02:16 PM

I believe my impact was a hammer impact.. maybe not... whats the difference between a "regular" nuematic impact driver and a hammer impact driver?

I might pick up a manual impact driver at napa for the weekend...

Garyk 02-28-2013 03:02 PM

A hammer impact drive is one you hit with a hammer, gives a good impact and turn the torx a small amount. The idea is the impact breaks the rust.....a word of advice, be careful if you are using one on the upper windshield/roll bar bolts....you can crack the windshield....don't ask how I know :( Fortunatley I had to replace the windshield anyways.

OverkillYJ 02-28-2013 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superdiver (Post 3433519)
I believe my impact was a hammer impact.. maybe not... whats the difference between a "regular" nuematic impact driver and a hammer impact driver?

I might pick up a manual impact driver at napa for the weekend...

If you can hit sears and get a craftsman one. Will probably cost you the same as a napa no-name anyway.

superdiver 03-03-2013 11:42 AM

All we have is napa... and ace hardware...

Anyway, i picked up a napa one and some pb. Yesterday I used them and it worked KINDA.... I got all the bolts loose on the one side, but on three of the bolts the NUTS came unweldied on the INSIDE! so those three bolts just spin....

Now I am trying to figure out how to access that area! It looks like I have to remove the dash COMPLETELY.... any ideas or hints?

Lil Waock 03-03-2013 02:48 PM

The nuts are not welded to the body. They used a body sealer, and coated them with it. You can get at them without pulling the dash out, but it is really tight. You'll need something to pick the sealer off with, then you can put a 1/2" wrench on the nut. Just went through that on mine. Swapped out my windsheild and hinges.

PS: When I loosened the Torx screws off, I used my torches with a brazing tip to heat the bolts first. One swat with a hammer and center punch, and the Torx came loose right away.

NonRubicon 03-03-2013 03:50 PM

Yep. You need to clean off the body sealer coating the nuts.

The lower hinge nuts can be reached without removing the dash, but might be a real challenge if you have big hands. Even so, you are working blind by feel, and it's a real PITA when you drop a nut back there and it disappears into the void behind the dash. I dropped one and it didn't reappear until a few months later :laugh:. Getting a wrench back there is a PITA too. Moreso for the driver's side than the passenger side.

When you get the nuts and bolts reinstalled, be sure to re-seal the nuts with RTV or the like to prevent water from leaking in.

One thing I learned was that some torx bits are made with metal that is just too damn soft to be useful.

superdiver 03-04-2013 02:02 PM

great info, thanks! I will give it a try....

superdiver 05-04-2013 11:31 AM

Well, i finally got to it with a friend since I couldnt hold the bolts and start the screws at the same time!

The BEST way i found to get the Torx bolts out, was to use a heat gun on them for a short period of time and NOT use the Napa Torx heads. As soon as I switched to the Snapon ones they quite breaking!

It took about 3 hours to get the first windshield hinge and door hinge set done, cuz the 4 bolts that are hardest to get at had to be drilled out as they just spun. Then we had to figure out how to get a nut up there to bolt into.

The 2nd side took like 30 minutes...lol... cuz we had it figured out!

So this week i will take it in and have the new windshield installed. Then I will have to choose which way to fix the carb issue... nutter, new or efi...

JD95YJ 05-04-2013 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superdiver (Post 3718633)
As soon as I switched to the Snapon ones they quite breaking!

I've had the same Snap-On Torx bits for about 8 years now and they've never twisted or snapped. They've lasted me through 2 YJs so far :thumb: Also I know you've got them out now, but as mentioned before the impact driver that you hit with a hammer is a life saver.. I'd go with Craftsman or Snap-On so you have the lifetime warranty just in case.

OverkillYJ 05-04-2013 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JD95YJ (Post 3718820)

I've had the same Snap-On Torx bits for about 8 years now and they've never twisted or snapped. They've lasted me through 2 YJs so far :thumb: Also I know you've got them out now, but as mentioned before the impact driver that you hit with a hammer is a life saver.. I'd go with Craftsman or Snap-On so you have the lifetime warranty just in case.

X2. You wont even twist cheap ones if you use an impact driver. That is one of the most important tools to have for an old vehicle.

mbannin 05-06-2013 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garyk (Post 3433734)
A hammer impact drive is one you hit with a hammer, gives a good impact and turn the torx a small amount. The idea is the impact breaks the rust.....a word of advice, be careful if you are using one on the upper windshield/roll bar bolts....you can crack the windshield....don't ask how I know :( Fortunatley I had to replace the windshield anyways.

Good to know! I was about to apply the impact wrench this next week-end in order to drop the windshield.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:51 PM.