Ok here it goes my jeep build finaly figured out. im going with detroit lockers front and rear with already have 4:11 gears in a dana 60 rear and 44 front with moser axles. im trying to go with a full coil over suspention. tradeing out the 2.5 for the 4.0 and a atlas 2 t-case with hopefully 35 or a 37 M/T baja claw and classic lock 15"rim. custom built already have and will probably mod roof rack and grill guard, front and rear bumpers, tubed fenders with a fold down tailgate,and a swing away tire carrier. pritty much if its things i can build it my self im going to. if theres something you don't like or think its retarded let me know. this is the first jeep i ever owned and im not planning on selling it eather so it all mine. but coments are welcome :punk::D:cool:
10-20-2008 06:44 PM
are ya ready...
The trans will have to change also for compatibility.
A Dana 60 and 35" tires will suck. It'll be an anchor plow under there.
Front coil-overs are easy. Rear are not. It'll probably require a notch in the frame and possibly bringing them into the bed area.
4.11 with 35's or 37's will suck too, think 5.38
is all this on a short arm suspension? or are you making changes there too?
10-20-2008 07:01 PM
i've been ready sence the day i got it but wanted to make sure im doing alright. I know in need a new tranny i forgot to mention that along with the full roll cage and five point racing harness:D just in case. and eventually a snorkal. that will be a bonus thou. pritty muck if its on the jeep it will get used like my grill guard everyone i knew said it wwould fall apart after hitting something. nailed a deer at 55 and had venison that night. and still have alittle tiny dent on the thing. but i was told by some people that 4:11 with 35s would be good. but thats why i put thid up so you guys and gals can fix anything thats mest up or isn't right.
10-20-2008 07:20 PM
4.88 is ideal for 35's. 5.13-5.38 for 37's
10-20-2008 07:55 PM
i agree 4.88 is ideal, but 4.11 w/ 35's will be ok, the min. you wanna go. dana 60 has a big ol pumpkin for 35's. i'm in the same boat picking axles right now. you need to decide on tire size. 35's i'd get a smaller axle like d44, 37 and up d60 is cool, but you want better gears then.
ok, talk is cheap, get to work.:D
10-20-2008 10:34 PM
do your research on racing harness.. if installed improperly they will actually hurt you.. in case of an accident.. you wont need a 60 axel for 35... and stick with 4.88 axels if its a daily driver
10-20-2008 11:01 PM
What these guys are saying is that for a dd on 37" tires, lower gears in the axle will make it more tolerable. But what you can do is make up for lack of gearing in the axle by what trans you use. I think 35's would be ok w/ the 4.10's and a moderate trans but the D60 will hang a little low. You have said you arent afraid to fabricate though so what you can do is shave the bottom of the diff and gain a little clearence back. At least you arent using a 14 bolt, it would hang down even more. For 37's, i would honestly think of going a bit lower in teh axle gears but if you run a trans like the np435, sm465, or T18 you will get a granny first gear that can make up for the loss of ratio in the axles. The route you go is up to you but I wanted to let you know there are indeed alternatives to swapping out your gears. If you go with the right trans instead you could still potentially keep the 4.10's on 37" tires (and have better clearence at the diff). Id also only go coilovers in the front unless you have the time, money, and patience to take on the project of putting them in the rear. You can always to a moderate sized coil in the rear with coil traps so that the spring doesnt pop out. You have TONS of options on a build like this so keep bouncing ideas off everyone and remember to keep an open mind.
10-20-2008 11:33 PM
Didn't catch what you plan on doing with it, but based on the items listed I'll assume rocks...
Might also consider 4-link in the rear and armor and sliders around the outside. Also didn't mention if you need to keep the rear seat...if not, you could fuel cell it and stretch the crap outta it.
10-21-2008 01:20 PM
to answer acouple questions I'm mainly setting it up for rock but trying to also have the peace of mind for everything else. im trying to go with the 4 speed auto trans if i have to and only if i have to i'll put in a manul in it. but sence its already an auto then i think it would be easier to leave it a auto. also im not to sure if im going to leave the back seat in or not. if i do the i might put two bucket seats back there but im not going to worry about that until the time comes. my main focus right know is the suspention, engine, axles, and the rest of the drive train i'm not to sure on the interior right now. the only thing thats going to change is the dash because of the cage that im putting in. pritty much the interior is going to wait until i get everything else done. and like grntj pmed me i also considering on coilovers front and normal coils in the rear. im trying to build my jeep for a daily driver but also get its butt kick on a regular bases. i have that problem were when i build things i get carried away. so thats why im talking to you guys. so thanks for the input and keep it comeing. i'm also going with 37 tires i made it offical last night. so throw me some gearing ideas that would be good for a daily driver and pritty much a weekend worriar and some times during the week.
10-21-2008 01:58 PM
i just thought of this if i run a 3" coilover up front with 15" travel and normal coil in back how much of a lift would i have to run in the back
10-21-2008 05:40 PM
There is a certain amount of adjustability in coilovers as far as ride height. Id clear the 37's in the rear with whatever coil it is you need and then set the front coilovers to match that height. If you comp cut the rear then you could clear 37's on about a 4.5" coil I think. As for gearing, what auto trans is it you have to go in there, are you going to stroke the 4.0L, how often will it see the road ost likely?
10-22-2008 07:08 AM
u definitely should stretch the thing.........look into putting a 700r4 tranny if you want an automatic........they have the lowest first gear........u havent mentioned if budget was a problem but this swap is a little pricey so i thought id let you know
10-22-2008 10:42 AM
i plan on haveing this for maybe 2 years before i buy another one or a j10 or j20 truck. so its going to be on the road alot. but fore now it will see the road alot. my budget is a little tight until fall so.my main focus is getting the engine and drive train done before fall that way i can do axles and lift and all that other stuff. this spring im going to tear it down to the fram and rebuild it back up it realy needs it bad. i was trying to stay away from that but every time i crawl under it there is something that needs work. thatand it all depends what type of job i get when i get out of the army. hopefully DNR or postal so i can keep some of my benifits. but who knows. my whole thing is i want to do it right the first time. so keep it comeing.
10-30-2008 10:44 PM
in my honest opinion i am halfway to building what you want ans things i have learned. first i eventually want a dd on 37s but good. the combo i see working great are the following sm420, sm 465, np435 depending on whether you want a ford or chevy motor. dana 300, or np231/300 doubler or the 203/205 combo depending on how low you wanna go. you can always 4:1 the 300 down the road and turn it into a poormans atlas. then i would use a ford 9 inch depending on budget use a tru hi 9 third member with the 35 spline shafts- there is the 60 you want with the comparible strength of the 60. aka 609. but for the timw being you can wheel it with a set of extra shafts on board or chromo shafts. the front go with a 71-77 ford dana 44 goole mr d's dana webpage he tells you how to make a junkyard axle thats solid. 3.73 gears so you can cruise on the highway but still have a good crawl ratio.only thing i would do is chromo shafts up front and carry spares. there you have it a killer rig for under 10k if you do research. i would stretch the front and rear since you want coilovers why not just do it:flipoff: lolcheck out radflo dont know how great they are but they are cheap. use an astro van steering box to allow you to push the front axle foward and 3 link the front with an adjustable track bar. no hydro steering i heard its very sensitive. then of course roll cage body armour etc, you make it yourself if you can fab and are somewhat creative. and done but thats just me o and if your hell bent on the 60 in the rear start thinking 40's and a hp60 front and a 14 bolt shaved rear.
10-31-2008 06:51 PM
3.73 gears with 37's?!?!?!?
10-31-2008 07:16 PM
yes becuase if you look at the transmissions i listed as good strong cheap swaps none of them have overdrive. if you do want the 700r4 then i would recommend 4.11's tops. if you punch in the numbers on a gear calculator. 3.73 gears with a 1:1 in the transmission and transfercase will put your motor right at 2500 rpms at 75mph. since i live in nj you are alsmost always on highways. i have 34's with 4.56's and think its ridiculous. if you really want to crawl looking for gearing in the axles is the wrong place. all three transmissions i listed have granny lows. and if thats not enough for you use an np231/dana300 doubler or np203/205 setup. you can't shift your axles therefore i think going lower rather than higher as suggested by everyone is wrong. you can always add a 4:1 low kit in your t-case for added crawl but when you want to drive on the road shift it back into high gear and its nice. now yes granted your jeep isnt going to launch you like a rocket at a traffic light fooling around with your buddies but its a jeep what do you want. that's my two cents and it seems logical.
10-31-2008 08:40 PM
are those a manuel tranny or automatic
10-31-2008 10:21 PM
just the lose the whole dd idea and buy a cummins tow rig.....thats what i did and i can build my jeep anyway i want and wheel anywhere in the us and still get home......dd/wheelers are a bad idea all around
11-01-2008 02:00 AM
they are all manual. ok yea a cummins tow rig sounds great but one issue cost you went from talking about a 10k to 12k rig to the rig plus a 40k dd plus maintnece on that rig and 1500 to 2500 on a trailer plus insurance and maintnence on the trailer so all said and done your looking at max 54500. pretty cheap(insert sarcasim here.) a tow rig sounds great if it fits into your budget. but if it doesnt a honda civic plua built wrangler will get the job done in 1/4 of the price. the only issue is being able to work on your rig and carrying spares and you will be fine. though having the security of a tow rig is worth it but heres the main factor do you drive an hour to two hours to get to your local wheeling spot? if not then a tow rig isnt reasonable unless money grows on trees in your town. i say go with a dd/trailrig still streetable but does badass offroad.
11-01-2008 02:36 AM
We need to pay a spelling/grammar genie to come clean this thread up haha.
11-01-2008 05:53 AM
Sounds like a great project. Couple things to think about. With the detroit up front turning and stress on the 44 will come into play with the 37's. I would cost out how much more either a front 60 or a selectable locker will cost. Also don't forget about brakes, Your jeep is going to be way heavy with those bigger axles and tires. And if its a DD you better be able to stop. I know with my 60's and 35's it was okay with disc front and rear, but still not a joy to always stop in a hurry.
11-01-2008 11:25 AM
i was talking to my dad last night and he said something about detroit e locker what have you guys and gals hurred about them
11-01-2008 03:59 PM
ok i looked around and you don't have to worry about the locker in the front if want you can use a spool because the dana 44 you want has locking hubs so when your on the road you unlock the hubs ant your fine.
now about the e-locker i know i have heard a lot of people complain about electric lockers because if you loose power to the front axle no more locker. all you have is a wire going from the axle to the switch and you have no choice to unlock or lock it if it goes. i would just use a regular detroit locker or an arb. yes they are epensive but you get what you pay for they both have the same down fall (no air no locker) but theyre alot more reliable from what i hear.
11-01-2008 04:42 PM
would that effect the steering at all haveing a spool in the front
11-01-2008 04:42 PM
I'm with you ExDementia....
11-01-2008 07:45 PM
im sory i spnd 2 much time out in the gradge building stuf and to hell with books the army isued me a s.a.w not books:D
11-01-2008 09:42 PM
i have a 1990 cummins deisel with just under 200k that takes me anywhere.......i spent 4000 on it so if i add that to my rig build i have just under 30k inmy setup....oh and i get 22 mpg in my dd
11-01-2008 10:10 PM
it won't affect your steering because you unlock your hubs and only your wheels will spin everything in your axles doesn't. i was just saying a spool i dont know if they are a good idea because i don't know what the dana 44 can handle. plus a spool won't give at all where even a detroit has some play in them. i looked for a specific detroit you would want in the front and thats would be a detroit truetrac. also in replys to the cummins dd tow rig. i really can't argue with you on this because for every fact i bring up your going to have another good fact to throw back at me. basically you got a very good deal and are lucky your trans is holding up in that dodge. i was basing it on the fact that a good majority of people when they buy a new dd buy new or realitivly new because theyll be paying it off for the next 4-5 years anyway you got a good deal on your setup your lucky. but its all a matter of preference like i said you want security go with a tow rig and trailer. if your not far from trails it's not worth the coin.