I need to replace my clutch
Ok Guys... last time you were amazing with all of the feedback and tips.
This time I think I need to replace my clutch, master cylinder and slave cylinder. Right now when I am driving, I have to pump the clutch when shifting gears or putting it into first when taking off from a stop. Back when I had an 2006 F150, I had to replace the slave cylinder to fix this issue. I am assuming the same thing is going on with my jeep and that I need to replace the slave on it as well.
But the Jeep is my new baby, it has 105,000 miles on the monitor and clutch and I figure if I am opening up the transmission I should just replace the clutch.
So here is my question, which clutch kit should I use out there?
I have a 91' YJ 4.0L V6 258, also what components should I replace?
Throw Out Bearing?
Fork and pilot bearing?
Clutch Release Bear?
Also, will I need any specialized tools other than a Clutch Alignment Tool and a Clutch Pilot Bushing Removal Tool?
Thank you all!!
By "pump" the clutch do you mean double clutch because the synchro's won't let you get in gear with a single pump, or is it a pressure problem? When mine needed to be changed I had to double clutch because the synchros were blocking my shift.
Turned out whoever changed the clutch before didn't resurface the flywheel, so that was the issue, not the clutch. Wound up replacing it all while I was under there as well as changing tranny fluid.
I just got the OEM Napa clutch and got my flywheel resurfaced. Don't forget to get all the springs/hardware if it doesn't come w/ it... oh and a clutch alignment tool! I changed everything except for cylinders, but if you are having pressure issues you might want to, either that or you have air in your lines.
Also if you are doing it on the floor you will need some jackstands, wood blocks for spacers, and a transmission jack helps too. For me the biggest pain was getting the exhaust out of the way. I couldn't get the pipes off so I disconnected it at the header flange and removed all the hangers and rotated it out toward the passenger side and held it to the frame w/ bungees.
When I say pump the clutch, I do mean Double and Triple pump the clutch because the synchors will not let me shift. Or at least I think it is the synchors or the slave cylinder is not engaging all the way. I don't think I have air in the line as I have been having this issue for a while now and it doesn't seem to be getting worse. Implying, that if it was air in the line, I would have a leak and it should be getting worse as I use the clutch and more air gets in there.
So OEM Napa Clutch, I will take a look... I have been looking at a LUK kit and some on 4WD.com but I don't see the difference in any of them.
I wish I had the cash to swap the internal clutch with an external clutch as I have read in other posts but as this is my daily driver I need it fixed before the clutch completely goes out.
you can get luk gold 150.00 from parts geek or luk rep set 131.00
Thanks.... I was looking at the LuK parts on Pep Boys for 269.
I had the same issue w/ synchros, like I said resurface flywheel. Also might be throwout bearing. Just replace everything while you're under there. Also changing your tranny fluid can help out your synchro issue. I read about using straight up motor oil for it, but I bought some gear oil (75W90) I couldn't find it so I used 70W80 or something, can't remember.
Make sure you don't spill your used gear oil like I did, I wound up getting it all over my sweatshirt, bandana, and my hair because I rolled in the puddle. My clothes still wreak of it (smells like a skunk) even though I have washed them multiple times.
Also pick up a chilton/haynes manual and/or find a good forum post w/ step by step pics if you haven't done it before.
Thanks for all for all the advice Phantom.
I just placed the order for all new parts with Partsgeek.com. Great site, great prices and good reviews from other users.
Next weekend it is the day... I plan to take photos so I will let you guys now how it goes.
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