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-   -   Tough shift into 3rd (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/tough-shift-into-3rd-239072.html)

Bet 04-29-2013 06:56 PM

Tough shift into 3rd
 
Driving home from college today I noticed that sometimes when I go to pop it into 3rd, it doesn't glide in like the other gears, it gets a bit hung-up and then goes in. Have had the TJ for 2 weeks now, so I don't know the last time there was a fluid change done.

Should I be worried?

It's a '00 TJ, 4.0 - so I believe it has the NV3550?

jimmy_buckle 04-29-2013 08:56 PM

Yeah same with me going from first to second. I have a 02.

It's really only the first 2 or 3 shifts when its cold and then it runs sweet after. Temperature dependent?

Bet 04-29-2013 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy_buckle (Post 3698520)
Yeah same with me going from first to second. I have a 02.

It's really only the first 2 or 3 shifts when its cold and then it runs sweet after. Temperature dependent?

Today was the first real rainy, damp day that I've had it. Maybe it's got something to do with that.

I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as a fluid change?

mudmagnet63 04-29-2013 10:41 PM

Wouldn't be a bad idea. I just did the royal purple syncromesh on my 02. 2nd was a bitch to get into. Swapped fluid and she is smooth as a baby's behind.

jimmy_buckle 04-30-2013 04:17 AM

Can we get some pics on where to swap the fluid?

I really have no idea where to start with this job. I am 19 and only entering the mechanical realm

Thanks

jimmy_buckle 04-30-2013 04:20 AM

Just did a google search.

Is this a good enough manual (pun intended) or is there some special 'jeep' thing I have to look out for

Locate and remove the "filler bolt"

mudmagnet63 04-30-2013 04:35 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Here you go Jim. The fluid change out is really easy

This thread says it all

nv3550 drain/fill plug size - JeepForum.com


I used a bolt that was doubble nutted to remove the plugs but only because it was on sunday and parts store was closed.

mudmagnet63 04-30-2013 04:46 AM

It takes just over 2 quarts. I also did a flush using about 1/2 gallon of diesel to clean all the old crud out.

so drain old fluid, clean off the magnet (no big chunks was encouraging). replace drain plug, fill w/ 1-1.5 qts of diesel, replace fill plug. start engine, run jeep through each gear slowly a few times with transfer case in neutral.(not driving, just sitting in driveway) drain fluid, clean off magnet. Let it sit for 1 hour with the plug out to clear all the diesel out.


Also while filling the trans back up I used a 3-4 foot piece of fuel line slipped it on the end of the quart of fluid and had my brother squeeze it while I held the hose in the tranny. It takes just over 2 quarts.

JP4VPI 04-30-2013 07:47 AM

It's a 17mm hex bolt. Also make sure you get the fill plug loose before draining it

flflash 04-30-2013 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JP4VPI (Post 3700488)
It's a 17mm hex bolt. Also make sure you get the fill plug loose before draining it

Best advice on this thread!
Always take the fill plug out before draining. Alot of these plugs have never been removed since new and seize especially on gearboxes with aluminum cases. The absolute best penetrant I've found for loosening stubborn plugs in aluminum is made for GM. AC Delco Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor it's actually made for loosening heat valves but we don't have those anymore.
If it wont loosen it Your Gonna Need a Torch!

I'm also a Huge fan of Royal Purple Synchromesh :thumb:

jimmy_buckle 04-30-2013 10:10 AM

Thanks for all the info guys. Super helpful. I will have a crack at it over the next week or two and get back to you on how I went

JP4VPI 04-30-2013 11:12 AM

Redline MTL is another great choice for the nv 3550. It's only available online n 15 bucks a quart but sure is worth it. My shifting has gotten progressively better over the two months since I changed it with that fluid. Buy 3 quarts so 1 you have extra which is nice cuz you will spill some and 2 bc if it leaks or you need to top it off in the future you can.


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