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-   -   Dimensions for AMP in dash (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/dimensions-for-amp-in-dash-240755.html)

WhiskeyMike 05-06-2013 05:57 PM

Dimensions for AMP in dash
 
I'm planning on changing 130 headunit and adding an amp. Does anyone know the max dimensions of the space that fits the stock amp in a 2013 JK?

I'm looking at this amp to power everything and it's - Product Dimensions 20.6 x 11.8 x 4.1 inches. Amazon.com: MB Quart Marine NAU660 360-Watt A/B-Class 6-Channel Amplifier: Electronics

I'd like whatever amp I get to power everything, and it would be ideal to not lose the under seat space or the rear area. I also like how it's higher and protected in case of water coming in.

gleek 05-06-2013 07:45 PM

I am putting in a JL Class D 5 channel amp (XD 700/5) and I believe they make a marine version. Haven't put it in yet, but heard good things about it. It's a lot smaller than your Class A/B amp.

woansleftpeg 05-06-2013 09:34 PM

That is a HUGE amp. I have a Rockford Fosgate R600 which is about 18" x 8" x 2.5" and it didn't really fit in the stock amp location properly when I tried it, so yours will definitely be a problem. I'm installing mine on the tailgate, because I couldn't find anywhere else that it will sensibly fit.

gleek 05-06-2013 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woansleftpeg (Post 3727002)
That is a HUGE amp. I have a Rockford Fosgate R600 which is about 18" x 8" x 2.5" and it didn't really fit in the stock amp location properly when I tried it, so yours will definitely be a problem. I'm installing mine on the tailgate, because I couldn't find anywhere else that it will sensibly fit.

How big is the factory amp?

woansleftpeg 05-06-2013 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gleek (Post 3727080)
How big is the factory amp?

I haven't measured, but I would say it's about 8" x 6".

gleek 05-06-2013 10:30 PM

OK, thanks.

For reference the following 5 channel Class D amps have a size of:

Alpine MRX-V70 is around 11x9
JL XD700/5 is around 10x7.5
Kenwood XR-5S is around 9x9

JandS 05-07-2013 01:58 AM

FWIW, Class D amps are a much better choice. They use far less power than the A/B amps.

WhiskeyMike 05-07-2013 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gleek (Post 3727253)
OK, thanks.

For reference the following 5 channel Class D amps have a size of:

Alpine MRX-V70 is around 11x9
JL XD700/5 is around 10x7.5
Kenwood XR-5S is around 9x9

All the responses have been really helpful, thanks. Has anyone installed those amps in the dash factory amp location?

derf 05-07-2013 11:33 AM

A related question:

Does anyone have pictures of the factory amp location? I've tried using search but didn't come up with much.

woansleftpeg 05-07-2013 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derf (Post 3729123)
A related question:

Does anyone have pictures of the factory amp location? I've tried using search but didn't come up with much.

What do you need to see? Pictures would be pretty difficult given the tightness of that space; you basically need to lie on your back in the driver's footwell and look directly upwards.

This is the stock amp and the bracket to which it is attached (ignore the duct tape, it's how I make sure that the screws stay with it):

http://i.imgur.com/mJWITj8.jpg http://i.imgur.com/lYJ57bK.jpg

Factory amp is attached to the bracket still (this is the Alpine unit from a 2013 JKU, I assume it's the same for the Infinity), it's unlikely that the four mounting points on the bracket would mirror the mounts on a new amp but fabricating something to attach to both would be pretty straightforward. Bear in mind as well that a new amp will not be able to use most of the stock wiring - there's no RCA input from the stock HU, and the power cable is puny.

derf 05-07-2013 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woansleftpeg (Post 3729136)
What do you need to see? Pictures would be pretty difficult given the tightness of that space; you basically need to lie on your back in the driver's footwell and look directly upwards.

This is the stock amp and the bracket to which it is attached (ignore the duct tape, it's how I make sure that the screws stay with it):

http://i.imgur.com/mJWITj8.jpg http://i.imgur.com/lYJ57bK.jpg

Factory amp is attached to the bracket still (this is the Alpine unit from a 2013 JKU, I assume it's the same for the Infinity), it's unlikely that the four mounting points on the bracket would mirror the mounts on a new amp but fabricating something to attach to both would be pretty straightforward. Bear in mind as well that a new amp will not be able to use most of the stock wiring - there's no RCA input from the stock HU, and the power cable is puny.

That's the information I'm looking for. In all the threads I've read, I never did figure out where the factory amp was located.

I want to upgrade from a base Sport S model with the lowest option stereo (sorry, I don't know which number it is but I'm guessing 130?).

I'm looking at this amp: Clarion XC1410 Compact 4-channel car amplifier 50 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com

I'm betting that it will fit where the factory amp goes. I'm also betting that I don't have an amp since mine is the base model. Is that a good assumption?

woansleftpeg 05-07-2013 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derf (Post 3729154)
That's the information I'm looking for. In all the threads I've read, I never did figure out where the factory amp was located.

I want to upgrade from a base Sport S model with the lowest option stereo (sorry, I don't know which number it is but I'm guessing 130?).

I'm looking at this amp: Clarion XC1410 Compact 4-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com

I'm betting that it will fit where the factory amp goes. I'm also betting that I don't have an amp since mine is the base model. Is that a good assumption?

It's a reasonable assumption, but you'll know for sure by looking in the trunk. If you have a subwoofer housing on the right hand side, you have a factory amp. If you don't have the factory sub then you don't have the factory amp. What I don't know is whether the amp mounting bracket as shown in my pictures comes with a Jeep that isn't equipped with a factory amp - if it doesn't then you'll need to fabricate something.

derf 05-07-2013 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woansleftpeg (Post 3729173)
It's a reasonable assumption, but you'll know for sure by looking in the trunk. If you have a subwoofer housing on the right hand side, you have a factory amp. If you don't have the factory sub then you don't have the factory amp. What I don't know is whether the amp mounting bracket as shown in my pictures comes with a Jeep that isn't equipped with a factory amp - if it doesn't then you'll need to fabricate something.

No sub. Like I say, base model. I knew I was going to upgrade almost everything in this Jeep so I didn't get much over a base model.

No worries on fabricating a bracket. I can do that on my own.

woansleftpeg 05-07-2013 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derf (Post 3729212)
No sub. Like I say, base model. I knew I was going to upgrade almost everything in this Jeep so I didn't get much over a base model.

No worries on fabricating a bracket. I can do that on my own.

Cool. The best advice I can give you for the project is that to get the best access to the amp bracket location, you'll need to remove the driver's side speaker pod. It will also give you the light you need to work in there, trying to do it all from the footwell would be virtually impossible.

derf 05-07-2013 01:22 PM

Good to know, thanks.

BacaraJKU 05-07-2013 02:55 PM

I can't find the post now, but the Alpine PDX Amps fit perfect in the slot. This is the route I'm going for 5ch amp and hopefully address having any heat issues since the Alpines are efficient and run cooler than others I was looking at.

EDIT:

Also with the PDX you solve the big issue of wire hookup since the PDX amps have a plug style hookup. You attach all wires to a plug and then simple plug them into Amp. Seems far easier then trying to tighten screws directly on an amp.

http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-v9/

Found it:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...r-install.html

derf 05-07-2013 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BacaraJKU (Post 3729709)
I can't find the post now, but the Alpine PDX Amps fit perfect in the slot. This is the route I'm going for 5ch amp and hopefully address having any heat issues since the Alpines are efficient and run cooler than others I was looking at.

EDIT:

Also with the PDX you solve the big issue of wire hookup since the PDX amps have a plug style hookup. You attach all wires to a plug and then simple plug them into Amp. Seems far easier then trying to tighten screws directly on an amp.

Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.

Found it:

Need amp for 2K8 Jeep Wrangler install. - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

Wow. Does that $700 include a reach-around?

BacaraJKU 05-07-2013 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derf (Post 3729819)
Wow. Does that $700 include a reach-around?

Try $438 on Amazon or cheaper I'm sure elsewhere. If you research the Amp it's fully worth the price.

I'm looking at some subs that are not offered in 4ohm DVC and are only offered in 2ohm DVC, plus the PDX amps push their power regardless of 2 ohm or 4 ohm. Alpine has done some awesome things with this amp that others are not doing. It's a lot more than a number.

Plus 100x4 + 500x1 is the power I'm looking for in a single small amp.

woansleftpeg 05-07-2013 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derf (Post 3729819)
Wow. Does that $700 include a reach-around?

You can get it for more like $500 on Amazon, but it's still a lot of money for an amp to go in a vehicle with acoustics like a Jeep.

BacaraJKU 05-07-2013 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woansleftpeg (Post 3729852)
You can get it for more like $500 on Amazon, but it's still a lot of money for an amp to go in a vehicle with acoustics like a Jeep.

Acoustics like a jeep is what is driving me to push for something better. I want something that I can turn up without sounding like crap when I'm cruising down the interstate at 75 with the top off. Or memorial day weekend at the beach in mexico with the tunes cranked up offroading through the dunes.

woansleftpeg 05-07-2013 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BacaraJKU (Post 3729877)
Acoustics like a jeep is what is driving me to push for something better. I want something that I can turn up without sounding like crap when I'm cruising down the interstate at 75 with the top off. Or memorial day weekend at the beach in mexico with the tunes cranked up offroading through the dunes.

Right, but you'll get that from an amp costing a third as much. Where you'll notice the difference with a top end amp like the Pioneer is in its ability to get the best clarity out of expensive speakers at high volumes - but you'll not notice that when you have 75mph wind going past your ears.

The Pioneer is a really good bit of kit and you're going to get terrific sound from it if you tie it to the right speakers, but I think it's overkill for what you're trying to achieve. Power is achievable pretty cheaply, you pay the premium for a refinement that you just won't notice in a Jeep, IMO.

WhiskeyMike 05-07-2013 04:01 PM

The PDX looks great. I think I'll go that route. On Amazon, one of the reviewers (Draketh) says he put his in the dash of a 2008 JKU and worked great.

WhiskeyMike 05-07-2013 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woansleftpeg (Post 3729896)
The Pioneer is a really good bit of kit and you're going to get terrific sound from it if you tie it to the right speakers, but I think it's overkill for what you're trying to achieve. Power is achievable pretty cheaply, you pay the premium for a refinement that you just won't notice in a Jeep, IMO.

Do you have a suggestion for a cheaper alternative that will fit in the stock slot and run everything? I'm willing to pay extra to not have it under my seat where it's going to get wet or kicked by my kids feet in the back. That sounds like a recipe for continually fixing something. Sound matters, but not that much.

I'm going for good enough sound that can be loud without distortion and ultra clean on the install. I've even considered no amp and run off the new HU I get, but worried it's not going to be loud enough for occasional uses that Bacara mentions.

BacaraJKU 05-07-2013 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiskeyMike (Post 3729988)
The PDX looks great. I think I'll go that route. On Amazon, one of the reviewers (Draketh) says he put his in the dash of a 2008 JKU and worked great.

I just think the PDX makes sense if you have the coin. Key factors for me are:

- Size for a 5ch Amp (all PDX's are the same size)
- Power Rating and associated features of internal electronics (i.e. 2/4Ohm same power output)
- Low heat
- Quick Connects (huge benefit when looking at this mounting location)

I'll admit I'm a little biased towards Alpine, but seems like a good combo of features for the price.

derf 05-07-2013 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woansleftpeg (Post 3729852)
You can get it for more like $500 on Amazon, but it's still a lot of money for an amp to go in a vehicle with acoustics like a Jeep.

It is, but if someone else wants to spend that much on their own Jeep, more power to them. Sounds like the OP likes that solution so it's good he found something that will work for him.

I'm old enough I don't need stupid loud but I would like to be able to turn up the stereo loud enough to hear at 75 without the system clipping like a mother.

I figure the Clarion amp I posted above driving some Polk 6501 components in the dash and 651s full range in the sound bar will be fine for me. I'm going to give the Kenwood KSC-SW11 a shot at filling in the low end with a package that should fit under the seat without shaking me out of the Jeep.

Besides, I'll be able to power both with an 8GA cable without pushing it at all. Between the amp and the powered sub it looks like they draw a total of less than 30A.

BacaraJKU 05-07-2013 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiskeyMike (Post 3730041)
Do you have a suggestion for a cheaper alternative that will fit in the stock slot and run everything? I'm willing to pay extra to not have it under my seat where it's going to get wet or kicked by my kids feet in the back. That sounds like a recipe for continually fixing something. Sound matters, but not that much.

I'm going for good enough sound that can be loud without distortion and ultra clean on the install. I've even considered no amp and run off the new HU I get, but worried it's not going to be loud enough for occasional uses that Bacara mentions.

I would just use these dimensions and see what is comparable. Maybe the cheaper Alpine MRX series might fit as well. It uses the same D class and other features of PDX.

Dimensions
Heat Sink (WxHxD) mm: 257mm x 192mm x 50.8mm
Heat Sink (WxHxD) in: 10-1/8'' x 7-9/16'' x 2''

woansleftpeg 05-07-2013 05:03 PM

Yeah, the MRX-V70 as mentioned earlier in the thread is a couple of hundred bucks cheaper and probably just as good for the job at hand. Bacara's point about the plug connectors is a very good one; working inside the footwell is a bitch of a job, so if you can use plugs rather than screw down connectors that will make life a little easier (although I wouldn't make that a critical factor if you're planning to install and forget).

Jlho1980 05-16-2013 01:37 PM

what are the specs on the factory amp in the '13 Rubi with the Alpine system and sub?

woansleftpeg 05-16-2013 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jlho1980 (Post 3762105)
what are the specs on the factory amp in the '13 Rubi with the Alpine system and sub?

8 channel / 368W total.

The "music being played through a plastic barrel" filter applies across all channels, comes at no extra charge and can not be removed.

Jlho1980 05-16-2013 02:19 PM

shafted.
Looking into upgrades (HU & speakers (sound bar for now)) and dont want to have to upgrade the amp also.


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