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-   -   AW4 Swap into 99 TJ (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/aw4-swap-into-99-tj-241548.html)

Dubs99sahara 05-09-2013 12:43 PM

AW4 Swap into 99 TJ
 
I am almost ready to start the swap of a Cherokee AW4 auto tranny into my '99 TJ, but had a question or two for those who have made this swap. Should I do a 1.25 body lift and a one inch motor mount lift? The reason I ask is I was wondering if the increased length of the auto tranny causes an angle problem for the drive shaft. My '99 is basically stock. And I was also wondering if it is necessary to clock the transfer case since the same transfer case is used in the XJ and the TJ? I appreciate any information and guidance on this swap!
Dubs

solman 05-09-2013 09:50 PM

AW-4 Transmission Swap - 1

Dubs99sahara 05-10-2013 08:16 AM

Solman, Thanks for the link!
Dubs

Black Magic Brakes 05-10-2013 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dubs99sahara (Post 3737592)
I am almost ready to start the swap of a Cherokee AW4 auto tranny into my '99 TJ, but had a question or two for those who have made this swap. Should I do a 1.25 body lift and a one inch motor mount lift? The reason I ask is I was wondering if the increased length of the auto tranny causes an angle problem for the drive shaft.

The increased length is an issue if you want much of a rear driveshaft. I've solved the issue mainly by going to the SSSYE from JB Conversions.

The only reason to do the MML and BL would be if you are trying to get a flat skid in there.

Quote:

My '99 is basically stock. And I was also wondering if it is necessary to clock the transfer case since the same transfer case is used in the XJ and the TJ? I appreciate any information and guidance on this swap!
Dubs
Yes, I'm 99% sure you will need to clock the case up. Even though the t-case is the same, the orientation of the holes it mounts to at the back of the trans is not. If you don't clock it up, you will probably have to do a drop on even the stock belly skid.


What year is the AW-4 and how familiar are you with the wiring?

Dubs99sahara 05-10-2013 09:17 AM

Thanks! The AW4 is out of a 2001 Cherokee. I have the plugs coming to connect to the AW4 plugs and have the wiring instructions from the swap listed in a previous post. Any suggestions while I have this thread going?
Thanks! Dubs

Black Magic Brakes 05-10-2013 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dubs99sahara (Post 3740814)
Thanks! The AW4 is out of a 2001 Cherokee. I have the plugs coming to connect to the AW4 plugs and have the wiring instructions from the swap listed in a previous post. Any suggestions while I have this thread going?
Thanks! Dubs

A few things I've learned doing them are purely to satisfy my sense of logistics and how things should be.

It's common to run the gray and black plugs up to beside the dipstick on the 4.0. When you hook up the Reverse light feed and the NSS circuit, it makes sense to me to abandon those circuits on the TCM side of the plugs and tap into the AW-4 wiring before those plugs otherwise you wind up with wires that do a 180 from one side of the plug back down to the trans.

I do my taps at their sources. The brake sense wire is picked up at the brake light switch.

The NSS is picked up at the old NSS circuit on top of the trans.

The TPS is picked up at the TPS itself.

I mount the TCM to the underside of the passenger air bag with some very sticky velcro. If you drill one 3/4" hole with a grommet right above the HVAC unit, you can bring in the power from the PDC and battery right there and it's a pretty much straight shot to the TCM.

Dubs99sahara 05-10-2013 09:47 AM

I do appreciate all your help with this. One more question; did you use the shorty yoke conversion from JB Conversions? That looks to be the one I should use?
Thanks again!
Dubs

Black Magic Brakes 05-10-2013 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dubs99sahara (Post 3740920)
I do appreciate all your help with this. One more question; did you use the shorty yoke conversion from JB Conversions? That looks to be the one I should use?
Thanks again!
Dubs

I use the entire Super Short Slip Yoke Eliminator kit from JB. Not just the yoke conversion.

Dubs99sahara 05-10-2013 10:49 AM

I'm sorry, that is what I was trying to refer to. The Kit. Sounds like money well spent even though this isn't going to be doing any major off roading. The fact that it pretty much eliminates leaking on the rear seal is a good thing too. I still might do a BBL amd MML later for looks!
At brake time I will get in touch with you for parts for that.
Dubs

Mypantera 10-29-2013 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes (Post 3740722)
The increased length is an issue if you want much of a rear driveshaft. I've solved the issue mainly by going to the SSSYE from JB Conversions.

The only reason to do the MML and BL would be if you are trying to get a flat skid in there.

Reviving an older thread because of a couple questions...

I currently have a 1" MML to go with my zone 1-1/4 BL (3" suspension) and will be doing the AW4 conversion this weekend. With the JB conversions SSSYE can I eliminate the MML or will I still need it? I know I will have to modify the shroud to do this... any other issues?


Quote:

Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes (Post 3740722)
I do my taps at their sources. The brake sense wire is picked up at the brake light switch.

Do you get better reliability tapping in at the source versus right there at the C1 / C3 connectors? In either case your taping into a wire.

freeskier 10-29-2013 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mypantera (Post 5734314)
Reviving an older thread because of a couple questions...

I currently have a 1" MML to go with my zone 1-1/4 BL (3" suspension) and will be doing the AW4 conversion this weekend. With the JB conversions SSSYE can I eliminate the MML or will I still need it? I know I will have to modify the shroud to do this... any other issues?

If you already have the MML what is it hurting to keep it?

Quote:

Do you get better reliability tapping in at the source versus right there at the C1 / C3 connectors? In either case your taping into a wire.
I would imagine it's easier figure out wires and make splices at connecters opposed to wading through a bundle of 50 wires and trying to find the right colors. You also don't have a giant tumor of splices all in one spot.

Rokr8d 10-30-2013 02:36 AM

Keep the 1" MML. For several reasons that will make sense when you get to the part where you have to fab up the new mount from the tranny to the skid. I hacked up and fabbed one from my AX15 mount, but I'll be redoing that at some point to make it lower profile. With my flat skid I'm pretty tight in the tunnel. You'll see why keeping the MML makes sense at that stage. Think about both drive shaft lengths and angles, even with the SS SYE.

Dubs99sahara 10-30-2013 07:45 AM

With the SYE installed on my stock '99 and the slightly longer AW4 tranny, my drived shaft had to be lengthened a couple inches. I was very pleased. With the doudle cardon joint the angles were minimal with absolutely no vibrations; even on a 4 hour interstate run to Virginia and back this past weekend. I used the stock AW4 rear tranny mount and by sliding the skid plate back an inch or so the bottom 4 bolts went into holes already located in the skid plate. I did have to use one inch rectangular tubing to lower the skid plate and redrill it to blot it back to the frame. Again my Wrangler is stock and this works wonderfully for how I use my Jeep.
Dubs


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