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Sandhara 06-28-2005 07:22 PM

Suspenshion question
So ok, im new to the Jeep seen, sooo bare with me please. I am looking for a lift of aprox 4" for running up at Sliver lake (Sand dunes). I have 2 questions, 1) do i need a long arm lift kit, 2) what lift kit would you recomend, bare in mind that im a broke college student so cost is a LARGE factor, but not the only consern, b/c i know that you tend to get what you pay for.... oh and. i see all these suspenshions for rock crawling, how would a suspenshion designed for that do on the dunes (the 4" lift ones that is) :confused:

4Jeepn 06-28-2005 08:56 PM

If your a broke student.. then I would not go with a long arm as they cost an arm and a leg. For a 4" lift you can do a number of things. 2" springs and 2" spacer, 3" springs and 1" body lift..etc. those would both keep the costs down. A basic 3" spring lift is around $500 body lift $100 Spacers $75. Or if you plan to save up you can run a nicer kit with new control arms, adj track bars etc.. in the 800-1500 range depending what you want and need. Some lifts to look at, would be: Rubicon Express, BDS ( big dicks), Rusty's off road, super lift, etc. I would recommend, if you have not already, to join a local 4x4 club to see what those who run the dunes have and see what how it works.

1BLKJP 06-28-2005 11:50 PM

Well boss, I think the first thing you need to think of when you are wheelin your jeep is that you are a poor college kid and drive accordingly.

Second thing when looking for a suspension system to is to determine what tires you want to run first off. If you only want 32's or something then you don't need a 4 in. lift. But if you do want that much lift then I would say for the money a 2.5 inch coil lift and a 1 inch body lift would work well for you to run 33's on. That way you can probably get by without the need for an SYE.

You just need to see where you want to end up before you say what you need.

Buster 06-29-2005 04:31 PM

1BLKJP is right, you got the cart ahead of the horse.
1) determine what tire size you want/can afford
2) determine if your gear ratio will support that size
3) go here
to price some of the 4WD lifts. Good people to deal with.

jeeperman 06-29-2005 04:47 PM

I agree with what everyone else has said, but remember, it's only money! You can make more! Welcome to the Jeep madness.

If I could give one piece of advice: Get an end result in mind. It is much cheaper to do it right the first time (if realistic) than to tear stuff back off the Jeep and redo it. Determine which tires you want to run, see if you will need to regear your axles, and then determine which lift you will need to clear your tires. And yes, the long-arm kits are worth the extra money if you can do it...

Good luck! :cool:

Sandhara 06-29-2005 05:27 PM

Thanks for the information

jeeperman 06-29-2005 09:08 PM

Not a problem!

So where in Western Michigan do you live? I have friends in K'zoo, family in Grand Rapids and Ludington! I live in SE Michigan myself. You go to the dunes much? I have yet to take a Jeep up there. Maybe next summer... Well, good luck with the build!


jeepmutt 09-07-2005 08:04 PM

Few lift kits give you everything you need, b/c every mod requires more mods. Bigger lift, bigger tires, then you have driveshaft problems and gearing issues. Then the axles aren't up to the game, etc. Assuming a TJ, a $250-$300 2" spacer lift would be my choice for a broke college kid. You can fit 32" tires or run 31" tires and have plenty of articulation and not find re-gearing a necessity. 31's will rub at full turn on stock wheels but you can live with that for a while. You'll want wheels w/ dif backspacing to stop the rubbing. Cragar soft 8 black wheels are inexpensive and look good. Front and rear you have a track bar running diagonally from the axle. Lifting the vehicle has the net effect of shortening the track bars, pulling the axles off center a bit. You will need an adjustable rear track bar to get a decent alignment (Black Diamond $150). If you run stock wheels the rear track bar is an absolute necessity b/c the driver rear tire will be pulled so close to the spring cup as to cause significant concern about sidewall damage to the tire and then a blowout. The driveshaft vibration from this modest lift is relatively minimal and you won't need a slip yoke elim or t-case spacer. As money allows, replace the sway bar disconnects w/ longer ones and/or quick discos b/c the stock ones will be stretched tight and will break w/ moderately aggressive wheeling.
The rear adj track bar, quick discos, and wheels that sit a little wider give you a good platform to do more aggressive lifting as time and money permit.

dst55 09-08-2005 07:41 PM

Cheap (but effective) lift
Hi, What I went with was a 1" body lift and a 1-3/4" spring spacer type lift. This will enable you to keep your stock shocks, etc. It does require you to use radiator lowering brackets (included with the kit I got) and transfer case lowering brackets (also Included). Both kits cost me around $200 and I'm able to run 33" tires.

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