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Bobsgym 05-15-2013 09:55 PM

Lift question.
I bought a 4" N2-Series and I am thinking it might be a bit too much lift than I want. I was wondering if I could swap your 2.5" springs while still using the rest of the N2 kit or would I need to swap out more of the kit such as shocks and control arms. If I am able to just swap the springs will my back axle still be centered? When I mean centered I am talking about when you are looking at the Jeep from the side the back wheel isn't to far forward or backward. If I am able to swap springs how much do the 2.5"s cost? Thank you for your help

nick50471 05-20-2013 12:40 PM

There are several ways to fit 33's under a TJ. A 4" lift, SYE/CV combo or TC drop is very common. Normally an adjustable trackbar is also needed with a relocation kit or redrill.

The 2.5" suspension lift, 1.25" body lift and a motor mount lift(MML) is another good way to fit 33's. Still need an adjustable trackbar.

In both cases shocks, bumpstops, longer brake lines...yadayada are all needed as well.

I have a 2.5" OME lift, 1.25" JKS Body lift, Brown Dog Motor mounts, JKS adjustable trackbar and OME Nitro long travel shocks. This works well for me.

I removed a 4" Rough Country lift and replaced it with the OME because the RC lift road terribly. I have head that the newer springs are better but I have no first hand experience with that. My OME lift rides better than a stock Jeep ever would.

Bobsgym 05-20-2013 10:36 PM

I have almost everything for a 4 inch install. MML, bumpstops, shock boots and a transfer case shifter bushing (because it rattles) are all I need to get yet. I have the Rough Country N2-series lift. Adjustable front trac bar. New steering stablizer. 33x12.50x15 tires. Canyon wheels. Wheel spacers.The kit says I don't need longer brake lines. Wish I would have researched more on lifts before I bought mine. Oh well. I almost have most of what I need so I will install the 4 inch. :-)

nick50471 05-20-2013 10:54 PM

You don't want shock boots. The boots actually keep mud and road grime in and ruin the shock.

Do you have swaybar extensions or swaybar disconnects for the front?

If you are installing longer shocks you will need longer brake lines. We can check it when installed first.

nick50471 05-20-2013 10:55 PM

when you brining it over?

Bobsgym 05-20-2013 11:26 PM

I have sway bar extensions but no disconnects. The instructions say no longer brake lines needed if I am not useing disconnects. I always thought shock boot kept dirt and stuff out. Whats a good bump stop to use and what size for a 4 inch lift?

Bobsgym 05-20-2013 11:39 PM

Hopefully the middle of next month. I'll buy the remaining parts the week of the 7th then however long it takes for them to be shipped here. Should be the weekend of the 14th or 21st

nick50471 05-20-2013 11:41 PM

you have to measure for the bumpstop. with the springs out you cycle the axle up and down to see if the tire rubs. then you know how much bumpstop you need.

The dirt and grime get behind the boots. they are for looks only.

Most install disconnects for the extra travel. I guess if you don't want it you don't need it.

Bobsgym 05-20-2013 11:57 PM

Can you install the bump stops after the lift or will I need to take the springs back out to install? I don't think I'll need a whole lot of travel and if so I could alway add them later. After the lift is installed will it be driveable to get an alignment done? Do you recommend any place that knows how to align a lifted 4x4?

nick50471 05-21-2013 11:58 AM

It's not about need. Travel will be determined by your shock length. Are the shocks in your kit longer than stock?

If so, the bumpstop is installed to keep your shock from bottoming out and also to keep your larger tires from rubbing your fenders during uptravel. You must also keep in mind the new trackbar might hit your diff cover. This is where a relocation bracket or redrilling comes into play.

During droop is where longer brake lines come into play. If you plan on leaving your stock swaybar attached the droop will be limited. In my opinion this is ok to start with but once you see the difference being disconnected or better yet a Currie Antirock gives you. You will need longer brake lines.


Wranglers are a sickness and you just got infected. :D

The 4:10's in your 2.5L will be sluggish with the 33's. Regearing and a steering upgrade should be on your short list as well.

Any reputable tire shop can line up your lifted Wrangler. I am good friends with Lon at Mason City Tire. After we install your lift give him a call. There are also many write ups on WF and JF on how to DIY.

Bobsgym 05-21-2013 08:12 PM

Yes it is a sickness and I am I have always like big lifted trucks and Jeeps. The look of a vehicle with oversized tires is just awesome. Not to mention having the ablility to go places other vehicles can't has always appealed to me.

My shocks are part of a 4 inch system. Here is a vidoe of the lift I bought. Rough Country"s New 4 Inch Suspension Lift for Jeep TJ/LJ Wranglers - YouTube I guess I assumed that my adj trac bar wouldn't hit or rub anything or need to drilled or a relocation bracket needed. I bought a rough country trac bar to go along with the lift. What kind of steering upgrade are you talking about?

Any kind of regearing will be awhile out from getting done. Even if I could afford to buy them it would be a long while before I could get them installed. Ebay has this for $435 1997-2006 JEEP WRANGLER TJ DANA 35 30 4.88 RING & PINION MASTER INSTALL GEAR PKG.

Looks like I am going to be able to purchase the rest of the parts I need for the install this week :-) Too bad I couldn't of had all this done before the cruise.

Do you think it would be ok to drive it back to Mason to get the alignment done with out hurting anything?

nick50471 05-21-2013 09:41 PM

It will be good to drive to Mason

Bobsgym 05-22-2013 10:52 PM

What kind of steering upgrade are you talking about?

nick50471 05-23-2013 06:06 AM

With the larger tires it is a good idea to upgrade your tie rod ends. ZJ V8 TRE's is the cheapest upgrade.

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