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-   -   Pitman arm (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/pitman-arm-243754.html)

BlakeDuke123 05-19-2013 08:59 PM

Pitman arm
 
Having problems removing drag link from pitman arm. Could someone help me out? Lol

UnlimitedLJ04 05-19-2013 09:28 PM

why are you doing this?

Patrick H 05-19-2013 09:44 PM

You can use a pickle fork, but they tend to damage the dust boot, and I don't like pounding on the sector shaft. I personally use an adjustable pitman arm puller to remove the pitman from the steering gear, so I can drop it down enough to put the adjustable puller on the drag link end of the pitman to remove the drag link from the pitman arm. Takes about 5 minutes total.

Sinister6 05-19-2013 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlakeDuke123 (Post 3772628)
Having problems removing drag link from pitman arm. Could someone help me out? Lol


Put a hammer on one side where pitman attaches and hit the other side with another hammer, the shock should break it loose without damage.

Patrick H 05-19-2013 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sinister6 (Post 3772989)
Put a hammer on one side where pitman attaches and hit the other side with another hammer, the shock should break it loose without damage.

This works, but as I said, I personally try to avoid putting that kind of shock load on the sector shaft

BlakeDuke123 05-20-2013 06:22 AM

So are these things just pressed together? Thanks guys, I will give it a try

BlakeDuke123 05-20-2013 06:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 (Post 3772769)
why are you doing this?

I'm installing a lift, an it comes with a pitman arm drop

00tj2 05-20-2013 06:39 AM

Well you better hold your horses and do some reading about front suspension geometry..... You are making a big mistake if you install that without remounting the trackbar. The trackbar and drag link follow the same parallel path throuout the suspension cycle. When you add a drop pit man arm you are changing the relation between the two which in turns causes the front wheels to turn as the front suspension cycles up and down. This will cause "bump steer" and make your jeep not very fun to drive. To explain a little more, when you add a 4" lift the frame side of the trackbar gets raised 4" and so does the drag link to pitman arm mounting point. If you use a drop pitman arm you will now have the frame side of the trackbar mount higher than the drag link to pitman arm mounting point. This will change the relation between the two bars and cause the above mentioned bump steer. Im pretty sure i did but I hope that I have explained it correctly.

Patrick H 05-20-2013 07:05 AM

Unless you lower the track bar bracket, don't installed a DPA. In fact, don't do either.

UnlimitedLJ04 05-20-2013 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlakeDuke123 (Post 3773682)
I'm installing a lift, an it comes with a pitman arm drop

you do NOT want to install a drop pitman arm.

the only occasion for installing one is the use of a frame side drop track bar bracket, and considering drop track bar brackets have a tendency to hit the tie-rod, there really is no occasion to install one of those either.

FWIW, the inclusion of a DPA in a kit is typically a sign of a low end kit from a company that doesn't understand basic geometry.

BlakeDuke123 05-20-2013 12:27 PM

So the pitman arm drop is not needed? I can use the stock pitman arm for 4 inch lift?

SuicideSaints 05-20-2013 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlakeDuke123 (Post 3774586)
So the pitman arm drop is not needed? I can use the stock pitman arm for 4 inch lift?

YES!

Only use the drop pitman arm if your kit came with a drop bracket for the track bar.

You use both drops or no drops. If you try to use one without the other you are messing with the geometry leading to death wobble, shimmy, and overall "funky" responsiveness and steering/stability problems!!!!!!!!

HobieSailor 05-20-2013 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuicideSaints (Post 3774767)
YES!

Only use the drop pitman arm if your kit came with a drop bracket for the track bar.

You use both drops or no drops. If you try to use one without the other you are messing with the geometry leading to death wobble, shimmy, and overall "funky" responsiveness and steering/stability problems!!!!!!!!

Still dont use it... I just went through this. I had a 4" RC lift with drop track bar bracket and drop pitman arm. It drove like crap... I changed only the pitman arm back to stock and it drove great, felt like stock.

I've since changed to a non-drop bracket JKS front track bar but that was mostly for clearance issues... The track bar drop bracket contacts tie rod at ~75% suspension compression.

BlakeDuke123 05-20-2013 05:45 PM

Ok thanks

Patrick H 05-20-2013 07:28 PM

What you'll end up with is bump steer.

SuicideSaints 05-20-2013 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HobieSailor (Post 3774832)

Still dont use it... I just went through this. I had a 4" RC lift with drop track bar bracket and drop pitman arm. It drove like crap... I changed only the pitman arm back to stock and it drove great, felt like stock.

I've since changed to a non-drop bracket JKS front track bar but that was mostly for clearance issues... The track bar drop bracket contacts tie rod at ~75% suspension compression.

Were the bracket and arm equal in length? Did the brackets look close to stock geometry? That's wierd that removing the drop pitman arm and keeping the brop track bracket would make it feel like stock. I have never heard of that. Interesting! Was everything stock before the lift?

Tbe ideal situation is neither but I run a little over 6 inches of lift and I used both to get it back to stock.

Every place you read and get advice from say the same, both or neither.

HobieSailor 05-21-2013 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuicideSaints (Post 3776264)
Were the bracket and arm equal in length? Did the brackets look close to stock geometry? That's wierd that removing the drop pitman arm and keeping the brop track bracket would make it feel like stock. I have never heard of that. Interesting! Was everything stock before the lift?

Tbe ideal situation is neither but I run a little over 6 inches of lift and I used both to get it back to stock.

Every place you read and get advice from say the same, both or neither.

I've always read exactly what you're saying so now you've got me second guessing myself... I could have sworn I swapped the pitman arm back to stock and then put the JKS track bar on later.... Maybe I did do them at the same time... sorry, guess I'm no help.

SuicideSaints 05-21-2013 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HobieSailor (Post 3779092)

I've always read exactly what you're saying so now you've got me second guessing myself... I could have sworn I swapped the pitman arm back to stock and then put the JKS track bar on later.... Maybe I did do them at the same time... sorry, guess I'm no help.

Im not saying you are wrong or anything. I am curious too. I used them both because my rubicon lift came with them and I have always heard and seen both or none.

HobieSailor 05-23-2013 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuicideSaints (Post 3780173)

Im not saying you are wrong or anything. I am curious too. I used them both because my rubicon lift came with them and I have always heard and seen both or none.

Ok so I looked back and I DID put the JKS track bar and stock pitman arm on at the same time…..

What size/brand lift are you running and how does your Rubicon Drive? When I had the dropped pitman/track bar anything above 70mph was a little sketchy, bumps on the highway would move the steering wheel around a bit (bump steer but nothing crazy) and there was a dead spot in the steering. Yours like this?

Since, going to JKS bar and stock pitman arm all those problems are gone. Most forum “experts” will say go with Currie ($309) bar because it has better clearance over the D44. This is true but if you’ve extended bump stops in front like me than the JKS bar ($185) will never contact the diff.

RC track bar with bracket, notice the bent tie rod. The bend is directly below the track bar bracket.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...7/IMG_1002.jpg

Here's the JKS track bar with much better clearance
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...A3C3051417.jpg

SuicideSaints 05-23-2013 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HobieSailor (Post 3784798)

Ok so I looked back and I DID put the JKS track bar and stock pitman arm on at the same time…..

What size/brand lift are you running and how does your Rubicon Drive? When I had the dropped pitman/track bar anything above 70mph was a little sketchy, bumps on the highway would move the steering wheel around a bit (bump steer but nothing crazy) and there was a dead spot in the steering. Yours like this?

Since, going to JKS bar and stock pitman arm all those problems are gone. Most forum “experts” will say go with Currie ($309) bar because it has better clearance over the D44. This is true but if you’ve extended bump stops in front like me than the JKS bar ($185) will never contact the diff.

RC track bar with bracket, notice the bent tie rod. The bend is directly below the track bar bracket.

Here's the JKS track bar with much better clearance

Ok that makes sense.

Im running a 5.5 in Rubicon Express Long Arm kit with a 1 in body lift. I have 35 in tires. I have the drop arm and track bar relo mount installed. It tracks and steers perfect. I do not have any bump steer or wobble. I will say it took soke time to get the track bar adjusted right but when I did it was solid and no problems to date.


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