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-   -   3.5" Lift now getting vibes at 60mph (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/3-5-lift-now-getting-vibes-at-60mph-244591.html)

RubiGou 05-23-2013 11:53 AM

3.5" Lift now getting vibes at 60mph
 
Just put on new tires yesterday. The ride is great except for the vibes at 60mph. Lift came with a T-Case drop and its a Rubicon. How do I fix the vibes??

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5321/8...35371454_z.jpg
Untitled by GouFlick, on Flickr

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3772/8...37e2cf20_z.jpg
Untitled by GouFlick, on Flickr

UnlimitedLJ04 05-23-2013 11:57 AM

you need a CV rear driveshaft, adjustable upper and lower control arms, and proper pinion angle alignment & axle position.

yoopone 05-23-2013 12:56 PM

Did you get a new CV driveshaft with your lift? I just did a 3.5" lift on my 05 Rubicon. Got a Tom Woods CV driveshaft, adjustable upper control arms and as the previous poster said set the pinion angle to the same as the driveshaft. No need for that transfer case drop and no vibes at all. Rubicon's with their different transfer case are slightly different that regular Wranglers.

RubiGou 05-23-2013 07:02 PM

No new CV shaft or control arms. Guess I have to get those now

RubiGou 05-24-2013 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yoopone (Post 3785779)
Did you get a new CV driveshaft with your lift? I just did a 3.5" lift on my 05 Rubicon. Got a Tom Woods CV driveshaft, adjustable upper control arms and as the previous poster said set the pinion angle to the same as the driveshaft. No need for that transfer case drop and no vibes at all. Rubicon's with their different transfer case are slightly different that regular Wranglers.

Do I need both upper and lower control arms?

RubiGou 05-25-2013 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 (Post 3785592)
you need a CV rear driveshaft, adjustable upper and lower control arms, and proper pinion angle alignment & axle position.

Since I have the RK Kit should I stick with the RK control arms or is Meatvcloak a better choice?

EMTJEEP 05-25-2013 01:02 AM

You need at minimum upper adjustable control arms when getting a CV shaft. I would say go with MC, better joints and have duroflex joints on both ends instead of RK that has one flex and bushing on the other for their lowers. And getting all new control rear/front upper/lowers is the best route to go.

BurlySoldier 05-25-2013 04:17 AM

Looks great though I will tell you that.

RubiGou 05-25-2013 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BurlySoldier (Post 3791302)
Looks great though I will tell you that.

Thanks

RubiGou 05-25-2013 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EMTJEEP (Post 3791222)
You need at minimum upper adjustable control arms when getting a CV shaft. I would say go with MC, better joints and have duroflex joints on both ends instead of RK that has one flex and bushing on the other for their lowers. And getting all new control rear/front upper/lowers is the best route to go.

Ok so I can get the Rear upper arms and the Tom Woods shaft for now. I have about two weeks before I can get them on will I cause any serious damage in the meantime? And also what site do you recommend the CV shaft I usually go to quadratec?

EMTJEEP 05-25-2013 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RubiGou (Post 3791598)
Ok so I can get the Rear upper arms and the Tom Woods shaft for now. I have about two weeks before I can get them on will I cause any serious damage in the meantime? And also what site do you recommend the CV shaft I usually go to quadratec?

I believe that is correct that you only need the rear uppers when getting a CV shaft. Someone can correct me if I am wrong though.
I don't know about how much damage it will cause but I would believe that as long as you don't go too hard on it you should be fine. Just keeping checking the U-joints to make sure they haven't busted.

Here is Tom Woods website. Get it off of here and talked to them about the proper one you need for your jeep. Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

RubiGou 05-25-2013 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EMTJEEP (Post 3792116)

I believe that is correct that you only need the rear uppers when getting a CV shaft. Someone can correct me if I am wrong though.
I don't know about how much damage it will cause but I would believe that as long as you don't go too hard on it you should be fine. Just keeping checking the U-joints to make sure they haven't busted.

Here is Tom Woods website. Get it off of here and talked to them about the proper one you need for your jeep. Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

Thanks a lot. This is a DD so I doubt I will ever see any off road action in the near future.

larjeep 05-25-2013 04:40 PM

Wow. If u r not going off road really. Add a couple of washers to the tc drop and it will stop.

EMTJEEP 05-25-2013 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larjeep (Post 3792361)
Wow. If u r not going off road really. Add a couple of washers to the tc drop and it will stop.

Why not do it right the first time and so when the near future comes for him to go off roading he doesn't have to redo this all over again?

RubiGou 05-25-2013 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EMTJEEP (Post 3792494)

Why not do it right the first time and so when the near future comes for him to go off roading he doesn't have to redo this all over again?

Since I'm getting the parts in approx 3 weeks can I use the washers to lessen the damage in the meantime. I'm def doing the CV and control arms but I have to wait a couple weeks for obvious reasons $$$$

EMTJEEP 05-25-2013 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RubiGou (Post 3793125)
Since I'm getting the parts in approx 3 weeks can I use the washers to lessen the damage in the meantime. I'm def doing the CV and control arms but I have to wait a couple weeks for obvious reasons $$$$

I don't see why not but if you weren't getting the CV and uppers then as a permanent solution, no. It may take a couple trys to get the right number of washers but it could help lessen the u-joint stress until you get your CV.

RubiGou 05-25-2013 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EMTJEEP (Post 3793191)

I don't see why not but if you weren't getting the CV and uppers then as a permanent solution, no. It may take a couple trys to get the right number of washers but it could help lessen the u-joint stress until you get your CV.

I just don't want to further damage anything because I just changed the u joints a month ago. I can order the control arms by weeks end but the CV will take me about 2 weeks to do.

EMTJEEP 05-25-2013 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RubiGou (Post 3793242)
I just don't want to further damage anything because I just changed the u joints a month ago. I can order the control arms by weeks end but the CV will take me about 2 weeks to do.

That's fine, I was just saying that if you were to planning on just doing the washers and wanting to go off road, it would not be a good idea.

RubiGou 05-26-2013 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EMTJEEP (Post 3793340)

That's fine, I was just saying that if you were to planning on just doing the washers and wanting to go off road, it would not be a good idea.

No off roading for me. So all I have to do is put som washers to lower the T case more?

TheDesertOutlaw 05-26-2013 01:02 AM

If it was me, I would lower the Transfer case a little more with some washers just as a fast/cheap temporary fix. Let us know if it works for you. :thumb:

T2000J 05-26-2013 07:18 AM

I'd pull the rear shaft till you get a cv shaft

yoopone 05-26-2013 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RubiGou (Post 3790758)
Do I need both upper and lower control arms?

My RE 3.5" kit came with only upper adjustable control arms. I could not set the thrust angle of the rear axle to spec. So I bought some Currie lower adjustables, put them on and got the thrust angle perfect. So I guess I would never buy another lift that did not have all 4 CA's adjustable.

Trendsetter75 05-26-2013 09:16 AM

Your Jeep looks great get rid of the TC drop and get a CV DS and rear upper control arms and lower control arms.

RubiGou 05-26-2013 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDesertOutlaw (Post 3793514)
If it was me, I would lower the Transfer case a little more with some washers just as a fast/cheap temporary fix. Let us know if it works for you. :thumb:

That's all I can do for now I spent a ton getting tires not to mention paying the dealership for installation. Wish I was able to do it myself not really auto savvy

RubiGou 05-26-2013 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T2000J (Post 3793738)
I'd pull the rear shaft till you get a cv shaft

By pulling the rear shaft what are the pros and co ns. Do remember I have to pay someone to do all of this. Is it time consuming?

RubiGou 05-26-2013 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trendsetter75 (Post 3793911)
Your Jeep looks great get rid of the TC drop and get a CV DS and rear upper control arms and lower control arms.

Thanks!! When I finally get the CV DS I can remove the TC drop? I was looking at getting Meatcloak upper/lower CA's are those good enough. Keep in mind there's a 3% chance my jeep will be seeing a trail. I do want to be ready just in case.

UnlimitedLJ04 05-26-2013 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RubiGou (Post 3791210)
Since I have the RK Kit should I stick with the RK control arms or is Meatvcloak a better choice?

Personally, I'd suggest something with Currie Johnny Joints on each end....like those from Savvy Off-Road, Clayton Off-Road or Currie. If you order through Currie, you may be able to get a forum discount...

Quote:

Originally Posted by RubiGou (Post 3790758)
Do I need both upper and lower control arms?

You can set pinion angle with only the uppers. problem is this pushes the axle backward in the wheelwell, so the tires can rub on the rear fenderwell. Worse yet, this pushes the rear track bar into the gas tank mount on the frame, and pushes the diff into the gas tank itself. So while you can set pinion angle, you end up with major clearance problems. You need adjustable lowers so you can SHORTEN them...this results in rotating the axle about the hub center, instead of about the lower control arm bolts. That way when the axle cycles up, it doesn't hit anything.

AOR 05-26-2013 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EMTJEEP (Post 3791222)
You need at minimum upper adjustable control arms when getting a CV shaft. I would say go with MC, better joints and have duroflex joints on both ends instead of RK that has one flex and bushing on the other for their lowers. And getting all new control rear/front upper/lowers is the best route to go.

If you ask RK they will sub in Monster joints instead of flex bushings. I have done this on many of my sales. Agree with you on all arms at once.

RubiGou 05-26-2013 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 (Post 3794245)
Personally, I'd suggest something with Currie Johnny Joints on each end....like those from Savvy Off-Road, Clayton Off-Road or Currie. If you order through Currie, you may be able to get a forum discount...

You can set pinion angle with only the uppers. problem is this pushes the axle backward in the wheelwell, so the tires can rub on the rear fenderwell. Worse yet, this pushes the rear track bar into the gas tank mount on the frame, and pushes the diff into the gas tank itself. So while you can set pinion angle, you end up with major clearance problems. You need adjustable lowers so you can SHORTEN them...this results in rotating the axle about the hub center, instead of about the lower control arm bolts. That way when the axle cycles up, it doesn't hit anything.

Ok so I'll def get upper and lower CA's and Tom Woods CV. I'll check the prices on Curries. I'm assuming I can remove the T case drop after I change everything? Also aprox how long is the entire job (both CAs, and CV)?

RubiGou 05-26-2013 12:39 PM

Thanks for all the help btw I just want to do everything right


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