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livenlearn 06-01-2013 09:58 PM

My Weekend Build
 
4 Attachment(s)
A couple weeks ago I dragged home a 89 wrangler with a 4.2 liter I6 engine and 5 speed tranny. Only deal was the tranny came in a couple 5 gallon buckets. Supposedly the engine was rebuilt about 20 k miles ago but I have not seen any paperwork or anything to confirm that.

Attachment 256532

I The more I work on it the more I see needs work but the top is in good shape, there is basically no rust on it anywhere except a little on the drivers side floor. it has a pro comp lift kit on it but not sure of the size and 32 inch tires. I am making progress on it. I tore the dash apart trying to make heads or tails of the mess in there and took the carpet out.
Attachment 256541
Attachment 256542
Attachment 256543
Today I picked up a tranny and ordered a pilot bearing. Hopefully next weekend I can install it. This afternoon I installed the bellhousing and starter to try to start it but it seems like there is a safety switch somewhere that is keeping it from starting. I do not have the clutch in so I thought maybe that was the deal but I couldn't find any wires that might relate to that. I'm not sure what the deal is but when you turn the key to the one position everything lights up the gauges come on but turn it to start position and nothing happens except the tac jumps a little. I might try to make heads or tails of that or just keep messing with the dash tomorrow.
I paid 2200 for it which may or may not have been a good deal. I don't really care since I wanted a wrangler and enjoy tinkering with things.

Anyway, does anyone have any insight into the starting issue. I have not checked for spark or fuel but I figure once I can get it to turn over with the key I can move onto why it doesn't fire.

AllMudd 06-01-2013 10:15 PM

Try turning the key on and go to the starter and jump it with a screwdriver. Touch the positive and negative posts and it should crank. If it doesn't u can start there. If it does and it fires you know you have a problem with the tumbler in the steering column.

livenlearn 06-02-2013 08:56 AM

Thanks for the reply. That is the deal. I did turn it over for a bit and didn't get any fire. I'll check into that switch see what I am getting out of that. I also need to check for spark and fuel so I can start narrowing down my problems. But now that I think back on it I didn't close the choke, :facepalm: need to get used to a carberated viehicle.

livenlearn 06-07-2013 06:42 PM

I got back from work a little early this week and picked up the bellhousing with the external clutch slave cylinder and bought fluids for the tranny and transfer case. I picked up a slave cylinder but I see it has a completely different line fitting than the internal slave. Tomorrow I'll take that back and get the pre-bled, master/slave setup unless anyone has some advice on an adapter or other to use what I got. Hopefully I will be able to get the tranny in tomorrow. That is somewhat dependent on how easy the pilot bearing comes out. Once I get that together I can mess around with getting it started. Last weekend I took the dash out completely and fixed the adjustable steering wheel wobble problem.

livenlearn 06-08-2013 08:10 PM

5 Attachment(s)
This morning I started into the jeep at about 6:30-7:00am. Got the pilot bearing out fairly easily with the wet paper towel method.

Attachment 259262

Attachment 259263

I pressed in the new pilot bearing for the larger input shaft. I then cleaned up the flywheel and reinstalled the old clutch plate because it has a lot of life left.
Attachment 259266

I bolted the throw out bearing retainer onto the transmission with the use of Gasket Maker and Loctite. The bell housing was next to get it ready to install.
Attachment 259267

At this stage I forgot the camera. I had to mess around with the tranny a bit to get it slide into the clutch plate and pilot bearing. I ended up lying on my back and rolling the tranny onto my stomach and lifting it into place using my feet on the bellhousing to slide it on. It was easier said than done but I eventually got there and then bolted up the transfer case. I decided to replace my transfer case oil before I installed the skid plate. It took exactly 2 quarts of ATF+4. My Royal Purple 75W 90 oil had come in so I went and picked that up and dumped it into the tranny through the shifter hole ( easier than trying to dump it into the side fill hole). I used my little screw jack to lift the tranny and transfer case up to the correct height and bolted in the rear drive shaft and skid plate.
Attachment 259264
No one had the pre-bled master/slave kit in stock or the hydraulic line so I returned the slave I had bought and decided to deal with it another time. So no clutch release.

I had not gotten the engine started yet so that was the next order of business. I got out my electrical tester and it read power out of the starter switch on the steering column telling me that the switch was good. The relay on the firewall under that battery I think what is at fault for the no start when the key is turned. What I ended up doing was taking the wire from the switch in the steering column and hooking it up directly to the power to the solenoid, bypassing the relay and it worked like it should. I cranked the engine a couple times and with a shot of ether it started right up. After fixing a couple leaking vaccum lines it purred nicely for running on two year old gas.
I ran it for a while letting it get warm and drove it around for a bit( yeah, no clutch, no dash, gauges on the floor and a big whole in the floor which I lost my camera through on a turn. :facepalm: ( I found it later in the skid plate with the only damage, a melted string from the exhaust pipe.)

The only problem it has when running was if I stepped on it hard it would die out like it flooded or no fuel and if you let off it would stay running. Not sure if this has to do with old fuel, vaccum leak, or a carb that needs cleaned.
Any thoughts on that?

I am going up north to NY for my sister's wedding for a week so won't be able to do anything on it for probably two weeks. I'm thinking of ordering a pre-bled clutch master/slave kit online so I'll have it for the next time I have time.

livenlearn 06-08-2013 08:13 PM

1 Attachment(s)
The next order of business after the clutch is working is the dash.

Attachment 259273

I'm thinking on going with a flat dash from DoubleD Fab.

livenlearn 06-11-2013 08:19 PM

Well, I am away from the jeep at the moment but I ordered the rest of the parts I need for the clutch, some front turn signals and a new lower shifter seal which all should be waiting for me when I get back. Looking forward to some more time with the jeep.

I'm thinking of putting a temporary plywood dash in till I get a real one designed. I got a quick question. Does anyone know off hand what the length of the dash is from door to door. I'm thinking somewhere around 5 ft maybe? Once I get something to attach my gauges to I'll try to get it on the road. :dance:

livenlearn 06-12-2013 08:00 PM

While thinking about the stall problem when the gas is pressed, I recalled looking in the carb while opening the throttle and seeing the accelerate jet dribbling fuel instead of a healthy spray. I wonder if a good carb clean and possible rebuild would solve my problem there. Sitting for close to two years i'm sure contributed to that.

livenlearn 06-23-2013 08:26 PM

Well, I worked on the jeep yesterday and today. Got the clutch slave and master hooked up, dissembled and cleaned the carb which made it run alright so I took it and filled the gas tank. Got the four wheel drive linkage hooked up which is much easier said than done. It took quite a bit of tweaking and trimming to get it to work. Got the front turn signals wired in and installed. Changed the differential fluids front and back. Changed the engine oil and put a new battery in it. Wired a new ground for the ignition relay. It now starts with the key like it should. I need to get a manual for it. It would be really nice to have wiring diagrams and vacuum diagrams to reference. The wiring is a bit butchered and so is the vacuum system. I am seriously considering doing the Nutter bypass instead of trying to replace the vacuum system.

One thing I discovered is that the front axle is a 3.07 gearing and the back is a 4.11 gearing. Makes it kind of interesting in four wheel drive. If I understand it right I can change the front gearing to 4.11 and everything will work except I'll need a new carrier. I would appreciate it if someone chimed in to confirm that. I'll be going from a 3.07 gearing to a 4.11.

I also put the metal dash frame back in to hold the gauges for now. I hope to get a custom dash sometime.

livenlearn 07-04-2013 07:33 PM

Have been tinkering with the jeep and driving it for a while now. It runs almost perfect and drives great although the speedo reads 10mph too fast for some strange reason. I took off the rear bumper the other day and the track bars. Disconnected the sway bar, flexed the jeep a bit in a ditch(did a U turn on a one lane road utilizing both ditches :D) I ordered a new carb and ignition system from Gonk Performance and that should be delivered next week. Today I took out the whole interior except for the drivers seat riser so I can still drive it. The roll bar is 80% out but I am waiting on the snapon guy to bring me a new T50 torx bit, yeah some of those bolts were tight. All this is for monstalining the inside of the tub. I also removed the fenders and hood to make working on the engine easier once I get my carb. I have a bunch of pictures but I don't have the time at the moment to resize them. I'll post them up later. I am still waiting on a windshield frame from the local jeep parts guy. I need to hit the sack now in order to get up at 3:30 am tomorrow for work.

AllMudd 07-04-2013 08:31 PM

For the speedo, you might want to get a new speedo gear to correct the speedometer or just remember that it's ten to fast. With the different gears in the rear it will change everything mpg math, speedometer and mileage.

livenlearn 07-05-2013 05:22 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by AllMudd (Post 3928441)
For the speedo, you might want to get a new speedo gear to correct the speedometer or just remember that it's ten to fast. With the different gears in the rear it will change everything mpg math, speedometer and mileage.

First off; thanks for the reply. Was starting to wonder if I was talking at a brick wall.

That is on the list eventually. For now I'll just leave it as is. Didn't think about the rear end being changed out. The front diff had new oil and the rear didn't so I just assumed the front was replaced. Maybe not though. That could explain it.
:doh:

Here are a few current pictures.

Attachment 269211

I went and pressure washed it inside and out and took some of the paint off where it wasn't prepped correctly. I also found plenty of bondo. I knew there was a bit of bondo but I didn't see that this side panel was about half bondo. So much so that there is no jeep stamp on this side which is sad. I'm thinking now instead of new paint I'll think I'll paint both side panels with black monstaliner and paint the hood, grill, front cowling, windshield frame, and possibly the doors a contrasting color. Open to ideas on the color. I am terrible at envisioning a good color or contrast.
Attachment 269213

Attachment 269210
This is a mostly stripped interior. Put some penetrating fluid on the roll bar bolts after breaking off another torx bit.(incidentally it is a t45 bit for the roll bar bolts, not a t50 bit as I mentioned in the previous post.
Attachment 269214
Considering pulling the tub off the frame to clean and paint the underside and the frame as well as the inside of the tub. Not sure what I'll end of doing yet. Sometimes I lean more towards doing everything at once or one thing at a time over a period of time.

GoldenSahara00 07-05-2013 05:32 PM

Nice project man! Get her running so you can wheel some. You are close rausch :thumb:

89Saharagreen 07-05-2013 05:33 PM

yes you have to change the carrier to go to 4.10 gears and I would be very carfule putting it in 4wd with different ratios good way to loose one of the two axles and probably not the one you want to loose.

Also since you mentioned that one is 4.10 and the other is 3.07 you may have a upgraded rear axle I would look into that and verify.

livenlearn 07-05-2013 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 (Post 3930618)
Nice project man! Get her running so you can wheel some. You are close rausch :thumb:

Thanks, fun project as well. I work on it even when I don't have anything to do to it. :D Yes I am looking forward to a some wheeling when it is together and on the road. :thumb:

livenlearn 07-05-2013 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89Saharagreen (Post 3930623)
yes you have to change the carrier to go to 4.10 gears and I would be very carfule putting it in 4wd with different ratios good way to loose one of the two axles and probably not the one you want to loose.

Also since you mentioned that one is 4.10 and the other is 3.07 you may have a upgraded rear axle I would look into that and verify.

The rear is a Dana 35 so no luck with an upgrade. I was looking around and according to this site (Jeep Parts, Jeep Tops And Jeep Acccessories) I would need a high ratio case. Is that referring to the carrier or the "pumpkin" itself?

AllMudd 07-05-2013 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by livenlearn (Post 3930961)

The rear is a Dana 35 so no luck with an upgrade. I was looking around and according to this site (Jeep Parts, Jeep Tops And Jeep Acccessories) I would need a high ratio case. Is that referring to the carrier or the "pumpkin" itself?

Just the carrier needs to be changed.

cakes567 07-06-2013 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by livenlearn (Post 3840097)
This morning I started into the jeep at about 6:30-7:00am. Got the pilot bearing out fairly easily with the wet paper towel method.

I pressed in the new pilot bearing for the larger input shaft. I then cleaned up the flywheel and reinstalled the old clutch plate because it has a lot of life left.

I bolted the throw out bearing retainer onto the transmission with the use of Gasket Maker and Loctite. The bell housing was next to get it ready to install.

At this stage I forgot the camera. I had to mess around with the tranny a bit to get it slide into the clutch plate and pilot bearing. I ended up lying on my back and rolling the tranny onto my stomach and lifting it into place using my feet on the bellhousing to slide it on. It was easier said than done but I eventually got there and then bolted up the transfer case. I decided to replace my transfer case oil before I installed the skid plate. It took exactly 2 quarts of ATF+4. My Royal Purple 75W 90 oil had come in so I went and picked that up and dumped it into the tranny through the shifter hole ( easier than trying to dump it into the side fill hole). I used my little screw jack to lift the tranny and transfer case up to the correct height and bolted in the rear drive shaft and skid plate.

No one had the pre-bled master/slave kit in stock or the hydraulic line so I returned the slave I had bought and decided to deal with it another time. So no clutch release.

I had not gotten the engine started yet so that was the next order of business. I got out my electrical tester and it read power out of the starter switch on the steering column telling me that the switch was good. The relay on the firewall under that battery I think what is at fault for the no start when the key is turned. What I ended up doing was taking the wire from the switch in the steering column and hooking it up directly to the power to the solenoid, bypassing the relay and it worked like it should. I cranked the engine a couple times and with a shot of ether it started right up. After fixing a couple leaking vaccum lines it purred nicely for running on two year old gas.
I ran it for a while letting it get warm and drove it around for a bit( yeah, no clutch, no dash, gauges on the floor and a big whole in the floor which I lost my camera through on a turn. :facepalm: ( I found it later in the skid plate with the only damage, a melted string from the exhaust pipe.)

The only problem it has when running was if I stepped on it hard it would die out like it flooded or no fuel and if you let off it would stay running. Not sure if this has to do with old fuel, vaccum leak, or a carb that needs cleaned.
Any thoughts on that?

I am going up north to NY for my sister's wedding for a week so won't be able to do anything on it for probably two weeks. I'm thinking of ordering a pre-bled clutch master/slave kit online so I'll have it for the next time I have time.

Where in NY? I'm in the Rochester area.

cakes567 07-06-2013 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by livenlearn (Post 3850690)
Well, I am away from the jeep at the moment but I ordered the rest of the parts I need for the clutch, some front turn signals and a new lower shifter seal which all should be waiting for me when I get back. Looking forward to some more time with the jeep.

I'm thinking of putting a temporary plywood dash in till I get a real one designed. I got a quick question. Does anyone know off hand what the length of the dash is from door to door. I'm thinking somewhere around 5 ft maybe? Once I get something to attach my gauges to I'll try to get it on the road. :dance:

I have seen people take the dash out of a cj jeep and put them in there yj. That would be kinda cool! But it really looks like you have a nice project to work with!!

HillbillyJeeper 07-06-2013 12:20 AM

Weekend project!!!??? You finish that in a weekend and i'll give you a job that will make us both rich!!

Just kiddin, I know what you meant. Awesome money and time pit you have there. I have had a couple myself, some of my fondest memories. Your gonna have a blast! Whos jealous????

This guy!
<=========

livenlearn 07-06-2013 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cakes567 (Post 3931647)
Where in NY? I'm in the Rochester area.

All of my immediate family lives in Buffalo NY.

livenlearn 07-06-2013 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cakes567 (Post 3931672)
I have seen people take the dash out of a cj jeep and put them in there yj. That would be kinda cool! But it really looks like you have a nice project to work with!!

Those do look cool. I would do a cj style flat dash with my own design. I'll probably get serious about it once I have the jeep painted and starting to put it back together. Thanks and yes it is a project. It would have been nicer if it wasn't so hacked but what can you expect out of a 24 year old jeep.

livenlearn 07-06-2013 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HillbillyJeeper (Post 3931696)
Weekend project!!!??? You finish that in a weekend and i'll give you a job that will make us both rich!!

Just kiddin, I know what you meant. Awesome money and time pit you have there. I have had a couple myself, some of my fondest memories. Your gonna have a blast! Whos jealous????

This guy!
<=========

Yes, I know it was a poor selection of titles but I am not the most creative of all guys. Must have been all that modeling glue, carb cleaner and paint fumes I played with growing up. :D At least most times I can still remember which way to turn the wrench.

You are right it is a blast to work on, can't wait till I get it driving and can take it off road.

livenlearn 07-06-2013 01:22 PM

2 Attachment(s)
This morning I did a little more disassembly. I almost got the tub off but one of the body bolts broke the nut free which I can't get to. Will need to pull out the cut off wheel later once the jeep is in the shade again. I just have the parking brake to disconnect and an exhaust hanger or so underneath and the tub should be ready to lift off. I decided to disassemble down to the frame on wheels, clean and paint the frame and under side of the tub as well as repair the rust spots and broken seat mounts in the tub. Not sure what I am going to paint the frame and bottom of the tub with. I'll paint the interior with monstiliner as well as most of the outside. The doors, hood, grill, windshield frame and the front cowl I'm thinking of painting a royal blue. Not sure if it will look good but if I don't like it I could paint it another color later. The hood and doors are completely disassembled and ready for paint. Might start that tomorrow. Need to get a bunch of painting supplies this afternoon.

Doesn't look like much but up do date pics.

Attachment 269533

Attachment 269534

livenlearn 07-07-2013 03:27 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Last evening I picked up a bunch of paint supplies. I started painting today. Sanded down the hood for an hour and a half or so then spayed a little primer on the bar metal spots.
Attachment 270011

Around 2 pm I rolled on the first coat. It will take a number of coats (6-10) but I think that first coat was a touch to thin. I don't really know what I am doing but from a couple articles I've read, it seems worth a try.
Attachment 270012

I'll try to put a slightly thicker second coat on this evening. I'll be gone all next week for work so it will have time to dry before I'm available to paint again.

This afternoon I ordered the 2 gallon kit of monstaliner plus some extra rollers in order to have it when I get the tub ready for lining.

GoldenSahara00 07-07-2013 03:53 PM

Looking good man. What paint are you rolling? I have a buddy just spraying his with monster.

livenlearn 07-07-2013 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 (Post 3935843)
Looking good man. What paint are you rolling? I have a buddy just spraying his with monster.

Rustoleum Royal Blue. We'll see how it turns out. I looked at a couple articles of some fella's that rolled on rustoleum thinned almost 50/50 with mineral spirits sanded between every 2 coats, put on 6-10 coats and got great results. If mine can turn out half decent I'll be happy and I won't have to be concerned about scratching it while offroad.

GoldenSahara00 07-07-2013 04:09 PM

I can see that working well, are you using a pretty thin roller? I'm painting axles w/ rustoleum flat black. Should be pretty nice. I love rustoleum paints.

livenlearn 07-07-2013 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 (Post 3935890)
I can see that working well, are you using a pretty thin roller? I'm painting axles w/ rustoleum flat black. Should be pretty nice. I love rustoleum paints.

High density foam rollers.
Shop WHIZZ 4-in Cabinet/Door Foam Roller at Lowes.com

I'm going to be painting the frame and axles here once I get the tub off. I might go with rustoleam paints for that. I don't have frame rust to speak of so a little sanding and I can go to town with the paint. :thumb:

GoldenSahara00 07-07-2013 04:19 PM

Nice. I would go POR15 if you can with the frame. I am pretty sure that's what the PO used and I plan on hitting it with some again in the future, along with some eastwood internal frame coating.


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