Lifting Poor style
I need help from the smart people of this forum
I’m super poor but lust for a 3.5” Rock Krawler plus lift system to replace the 2.5” Teraflex BB w/Rock Krawler track bars front and rear that I have right now. My question is can I add these pieces one and two at a time, as money permits me to, in this order and is there anything that I left off that I will need for a complete (BA) suspension system?
1.Front Spring Clips
Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges
JK Rear Heim Jointed Sway Bar Extended Links - Does anyone make a rear swaybar quick disconnect?
JK Long Travel Stainless Steel Front Brake Lines
JK Long Travel Stainless Steel Rear Brake Lines
2.JK High Clearance Adjustable Front Lower Control Arms
high misalignment adjustable front upper control arms made from 1.25" solid alloy steel – I couldn’t find on Rock Krawler’s website.
3. JK 3 Link Rear Conversion (Mid Arm - Short Arm)
JK High Clearance Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms RK02022
4. JK 3.5" Progressive Rate Front Coil Springs - Part Number RK02001
JK 3.5" H.D. Linear Rate Rear Coil Springs - Part Number RK02002
Bilstein for the 5100 series shocks (I think, can you recommend a better or softer shock for my application?) Front - 24-186872, Rear - 34-146715
Thoughts, foreseen issues, corrections?
Because it's either that or I let my cheap side take over the project and buy this RC system..... Rough Country 2007 - 2012 Jeep JK Wrangler 4" X-series Suspension 2 Door
3.5 is a ton of lift. Why risk so much height ?
I will admit, RK is one of the most complete kits out there though.
To answer your question :hide:
3.5" is a lot of height. It's going to be hard adding piece by piece. You are going to need to correct the front steering geometry (high steer)
I would also stick with a 5 link rear. 3 link is overkill for what most of us do. You can have RK shorten a set of rear uppers for pinion angle unless you do run all 4 arms.Front lowers for caster.
I don't really care for RK's rear track bar bracket. It's requires to be welded and only mounts to the stock hole.
You may be able to keep the stock track bar --and this will benefit if set on a 3-link -- running a Teraflex 2-6" bracket. Strong and mounts to 3 Locations. The 6" hole should position the axle close but maintain roll center which is most important.
I forget 2-4 door ? RK springs are known to run high especially without weight. 2 doors are going to see 3-4"
I would definitely do the 5100's over their shocks.
My thought was all the pieces by themselves will work with 2-6” of lift sinces it’s all adjustable. Thus I “should” be able to run the arms on my spacer lift now and add the springs/shocks last to complete the kit. Please correct me if I’m wrong, I’m learning as I go here!
Yep... We talked track bar brackets in the past :thumb:
Throw on a nice set of 2.5" coils and possible front lowers (or AEV drop brackets)
Build from there.
Arms in this order
-Rear uppers for pinion
-Rear lowers for wheelbase
-Front lowers wheelbase
-front uppers pinion/caster
4-6" shocks :thumb:
Hmmm, I would leave it where it is unless you are going with 37"-40" tires and are really going hard core rock crawling. I've Run that 2.5" Teraflex BB all over Colorado and Moab on an Unlimited with 35" tires and it worked perfectly. I guess I'm tempering this with the statement you made about not having much in the excess toy fund account.
Some of these fancy lifts remind me of golf. Unless you are a great golfer the really high end equipment won't do much for you. I'm certainly no pro offroader but do spend several weeks each year out west. Maybe some of the available kits would give me more but I'm not sure I'm the seasoned driver to take advantage of what the kit offers. My 2.5" AEV and 35" tires on my current JK seems perfect right now and the lift was under $1k.
Kjeeper's got good advice here.
If your heart is really set on this system, here are a couple of Ideas for you to work on.........
1. Instead of buying and installing one piece at a time, whenever you have the cash for that one piece, just throw that cash into the cookie jar and leave it there. Do that every time you want to buy a piece, and it will not take too long and you will then have the cash to pay for the complete setup. This is probably the most cost effective way of doing it.
2. The other way would be to go ahead and buy your system one piece at a time, but don't install anything until you have all the components in your possession. This would probably be the least cost effective way to do your lift.
Building a lifted badazz rig is expensive to do it right. Sorry, but one has to pay to play. And I know, we come from a society that is used to instant gratification, but there are ways to do things that will actually be more satisfying in the end. Our government needs to work on this!!!!!!!:thumb:
krawloff-road.com also has layaway; just PM Jason here on the forum. :)
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