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-   -   Frame rust help. (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/frame-rust-help-250466.html)

WVU Mountainman 06-19-2013 07:02 PM

Frame rust help.
 
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Well I found some rust on my frame today. First time I have seen it actually it must have been hiding as Ive spent more time underneath it than driving it :). No shops locally in WV will repair it or welding shops due to liability issues. The only shop I did find quoted my $800 to do it as a side job. I feel this is too much. What are my options? Just to help everyone get oriented, the picture shows the front lower control arm mount passenger side. Drivers side has no issues.

JimsJeep 06-19-2013 07:13 PM

Except for that spot the frame looks good, maybe you could search craigslist for a mobil welding service. I know there are quite a few in my area. $800 is pretty steep.

WVU Mountainman 06-19-2013 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimsJeep (Post 3878821)
Except for that spot the frame looks good, maybe you could search craigslist for a mobil welding service. I know there are quite a few in my area. $800 is pretty steep.

Thank you. I will look. The rest of the frame looks really good except for surface rust under the transfer case skid. I need to scrape that off and paint as well.

DarrenT 06-20-2013 07:30 AM

$800 isn't steep.... It's daylight bloody robbery!!!

To remove the control arm bracket completely, clean up, patch and replace bracket I'd expect no more than three hours of work..... Chuck in maximum $80 for materials and I'd expect a shop to charge around $300 all in, certainly no more.
Unfortunately, as I learned the hard way, Jeep frames rust like a real SOB. But there is no way on god's delightfully green earth that repair would cost you $800. He's clearly throwing out a high price because he doesn't want the work.

UnlimitedLJ04 06-20-2013 07:56 AM

buy this:
Millermatic 211 Auto-Set with MVP - MIG Wire Welder - GMAW - Miller Welding

and this:
Heavy Duty 4-1/2" Angle Grinder

grind all the paint off, clean up the rust, cut the holes open until you get to solid steel, then weld patches in place.

Jeep Frame repair - YouTube

DarrenT 06-20-2013 08:21 AM

Jeeps are like Land Rovers, welding goes hand in hand with ownership......
From some rather questionable welding abilities a few years ago, I have gained much experience and now find myself looking for an opportunity to weld :D

RevCo666 06-20-2013 08:27 AM

Another less costly option:

Safe-T-Cap - Auto Rust Technicians

Crby77 06-20-2013 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RevCo666 (Post 3880888)
Another less costly option:

Safe-T-Cap - Auto Rust Technicians

I have my jeep with them as we speak. 2200 for the entire right side, partial left, and floor to frame brackets.

RevCo666 06-20-2013 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crby77 (Post 3881810)
I have my jeep with them as we speak. 2200 for the entire right side, partial left, and floor to frame brackets.

Ok, but my point is the OP appears to have as much work to do to his jeep then yours, as a result, the costs should be a lot lower then 800$

All Terrain JK 06-20-2013 03:00 PM

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I did the safty-cap repair on my son's TJ from the front body mount all the way back both sides for about $650. Took him and I several days and a lot of sweat.


Attachment 263819



Attachment 263820

WVU Mountainman 06-21-2013 09:34 AM

I just found a local guy who is going to do it for $200. I think this a a great deal. He is going to have it all done today. I will post a picture of the finished patch

JimsJeep 06-21-2013 09:36 AM

That sounds more like it.

RevCo666 06-21-2013 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVU Mountainman (Post 3885166)
I just found a local guy who is going to do it for $200. I think this a a great deal. He is going to have it all done today. I will post a picture of the finished patch

Awesome man, nice to be able to save a few bucks and not sacrifice quality work.

WVU Mountainman 06-21-2013 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RevCo666 (Post 3885188)

Awesome man, nice to be able to save a few bucks and not sacrifice quality work.

Absolutely!!!

dlm32067 06-21-2013 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RevCo666 (Post 3880888)
Another less costly option:

Safe-T-Cap - Auto Rust Technicians

I'm glad you found a reasonable solution, but I second the comment about the Safe-T-Cap. It's a great product. My frame looked a lot like yours when I bought mine.

David

WVU Mountainman 06-21-2013 03:17 PM

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Quality work. I'm very pleased. I like the idea of the safety cap as well. I will look into it for future needs.

WVU Mountainman 06-21-2013 03:18 PM

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Better pic

JimsJeep 06-21-2013 03:48 PM

Look Ma no rust. Nice Job, That worked out great.

WVU Mountainman 06-21-2013 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimsJeep (Post 3886298)
Look Ma no rust. Nice Job, That worked out great.

Sure did. If only I could weld like that... I think I need to learn how.

JimsJeep 06-21-2013 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVU Mountainman (Post 3886358)
Sure did. If only I could weld like that... I think I need to learn how.

Not to hard with some practice, I picked it up pretty quick some 40 years ago. Look around for a basic Mig setup (with gas) They can be had for a reasonable price.

WVU Mountainman 06-21-2013 04:15 PM

Is the gas the key? I tried a few cheap buzz boxes with no success. The welds were exceptionally poor.

RevCo666 06-21-2013 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVU Mountainman (Post 3886217)
Better pic

Yep, that looks about right!

RevCo666 06-21-2013 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVU Mountainman (Post 3886395)
Is the gas the key? I tried a few cheap buzz boxes with no success. The welds were exceptionally poor.

MIG welding is the ticket. Problem is finding a good welding machine with enough amps to do the proper job on thick metal. Most of the little machines only do up to 1/4 steel. Personally, if it (the welding machine) can do up to 3/8th then that should be perfect.

JimsJeep 06-21-2013 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVU Mountainman (Post 3886395)
Is the gas the key? I tried a few cheap buzz boxes with no success. The welds were exceptionally poor.

The buzz box is arc welding and that does require a lot of practice to perfect. The MIG (machine inert gas) is a great garage welder. I have the Hobart 140 which is a 110V machine. A lot of people prefer a 220 machine but I am very happy with what I have.

krisbman 06-21-2013 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimsJeep (Post 3886967)

The buzz box is arc welding and that does require a lot of practice to perfect. The MIG (machine inert gas) is a great garage welder. I have the Hobart 140 which is a 110V machine. A lot of people prefer a 220 machine but I am very happy with what I have.

A 140 110volt machine is too light duty for frame welding. At minimum you would want a 185 220 volt machine. A miller 185 is a good compromise between both worlds. It will weld all but the heaviest stuff but on a vehicle theres nothing it couldnt handle. MIG... Metal Inert Gas.
For the OP thats an easy fix, we tackle stuff like that on a regular basis at my shop. $800 seems awfully high. We charge $50hr and i wouldnt think that would take less than a days labor total.

JimsJeep 06-21-2013 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krisbman (Post 3887027)
A 140 110volt machine is too light duty for frame welding. At minimum you would want a 185 220 volt machine. A miller 185 is a good compromise between both worlds. It will weld all but the heaviest stuff but on a vehicle theres nothing it couldnt handle. MIG... Metal Inert Gas.
For the OP thats an easy fix, we tackle stuff like that on a regular basis at my shop. $800 seems awfully high. We charge $50hr and i wouldnt think that would take less than a days labor total.

The 140 performs just fine welding a frame, I would not suggest it for everyday commercial work but for a garage machine it is quite suitable.

krisbman 06-21-2013 08:25 PM

Too each his own but i can gaurantee that we wouldnt use one on anything frame related. Its just not going to get adequate penetration. 110 just wont get hot enough and turned all the way up they still wont match the 185/ 220 volt

JimsJeep 06-21-2013 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krisbman (Post 3887096)
Too each his own but i can gaurantee that we wouldnt use one on anything frame related. Its just not going to get adequate penetration. 110 just wont get hot enough and turned all the way up they still wont match the 185/ 220 volt

I am a qualified welder (high pressure piping systems) who has been welding 43 years and know what heat and penetration is, I can blow thru a jeep frame no problem. Not talking about a commercial operation here and Never said it would match a 185.

It's just a good all around hobby/garage machine

krisbman 06-21-2013 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimsJeep (Post 3887132)

I am a qualified welder (high pressure piping systems) who has been welding 43 years and know what heat and penetration is, I can blow thru a jeep frame no problem. Not talking about a commercial operation here and Never said it would match a 185.

It's just a good all around hobby/garage machine

In the hands of a skilled welder yes i agree it will work, however most people arent and shouldnt tackle frame welding/ repair with a light duty welder in my opinion. Bird shit welds+ frame= bad juju. Im not really disagreeing with you just if i had a choice im going to the 185 on anything other than sheet metal.

JelloJeep 06-21-2013 08:56 PM

Chassis Saver from napa. once you get to real bad spots taken care of this will take care of the rest


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