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-   -   YJ Codes 73 and 75 WTF? (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f218/yj-codes-73-and-75-wtf-251402.html)

sevenservices 06-24-2013 09:43 AM

YJ Codes 73 and 75 WTF?
 
I keep pulling my codes, over and over for the last couple months.

I re-did all my alternator wiring and ran 1 week, over 200 miles without a CE light. Then Saturday, BAM! The frikin light is back on!

Im getting these, consistently;

12 - start of codes
75 - WTF? They only go to 65 everywhere I look???
73 - WTF? They only go to 65 everywhere I look???

35 - cooling fan circuit open of shorted (funny, I have a stock manual fan lol)
41 - alternator field open or shorted
55 - end of codes

sevenservices 06-25-2013 08:12 AM

So I must have some sort of hybrid alien computer in the YJ to throw codes 75 and 73?

OverkillYJ 06-25-2013 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sevenservices (Post 3893810)
I keep pulling my codes, over and over for the last couple months.

I re-did all my alternator wiring and ran 1 week, over 200 miles without a CE light. Then Saturday, BAM! The frikin light is back on!

Im getting these, consistently;

12 - start of codes
75 - WTF? They only go to 65 everywhere I look???
73 - WTF? They only go to 65 everywhere I look???

35 - cooling fan circuit open of shorted (funny, I have a stock manual fan lol)
41 - alternator field open or shorted
55 - end of codes

It must be skipping one. There are only 3 codes that end in 7. 47 (charging system voltage too low) makes sense with your other codes. The other one might be 27 since that is electrical as well and ends in 7. That would be my best guess. I think you may have fried something though.

sevenservices 06-25-2013 09:34 AM

I think your onto something... I did the same thing and started looking at all that ended in 5 and 7. No matter, I keep getting field shorts or open connections.

I've cleaned all my alternator connections and replaced all of the + cables. Ran awhile without the light and its back. I think my next move will be to replace the - cables and be sure all the connections are good in my wiring harness.

OverkillYJ 06-25-2013 09:53 AM

Do you have the control module hooked up to your alternator? Is it the stock alternator?

sevenservices 06-25-2013 10:00 AM

Stock alternator, tested good at the parts store. Wired up stock w/a new ECM about 3 years ago. When I replaced the + cables they were green and all cooroded bad. Thought I had it fixed w/those... wondering how bad my - cables are. I'll cut back some insulation and check around 'em.

wasomma 06-25-2013 02:08 PM

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OverkillYJ 06-25-2013 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sevenservices (Post 3897495)
Stock alternator, tested good at the parts store. Wired up stock w/a new ECM about 3 years ago. When I replaced the + cables they were green and all cooroded bad. Thought I had it fixed w/those... wondering how bad my - cables are. I'll cut back some insulation and check around 'em.

I would not trust a parts stor saying the alternator was good. Last two I have seen go bad tested good, but replacment of them fixed the issues. What you have sounds more serious though. Sounds like something might be fried, or grounding out somewhere.

sevenservices 06-25-2013 02:51 PM

I'm with ya, I might just replace it anyways at this point. I'm going to try re-doing the grounds and possibly get a new alternator.

sevenservices 06-27-2013 07:47 AM

I havn't replaced my - cables, yet...

After replacing the + cables and cleaning connections at the alternator it was great, other than my light coming back on after a week or so. This morning, on my way to work my voltage took a hit again and dropped from 14v to 12v. Running 100% on battery at this point. Its ok to get home, only about 7 miles back.

My plan is to do this; bring home my good volt meter from work. Hook it to the battery terminal connections, start the jeep and witness most likely 12v or less at the battery w/o the charging taking place right now, then screw with the connections everywhere while its running and see if I can nail down something. If it is a bad connection, it should spike back up to 14v when messing with it. Or, the alternator is taking a dump and cuts in and out. We'll see.

sevenservices 06-27-2013 10:20 AM

Finally found something solid!!!

Alternator is the culprit. I had my teenager sit inside and watch the gauge. I tapped the terminals, shook the wiring and the harness connections, checked connections at the computer, tapped on the terminals w/a breaker bar... nothing changed! Then, I nailed it. I tapped on the alternator w/my breaker bar and and I heard a shooping noise, he says "its up to 14v!"

I'm thinking now 100% that my brushes in there are sticking away from the armeture. When you tap the alternator the brushes drop back out to the armeture and it starts charging. You can totally hear the brushes drag now after tapping on it pretty good.

New alternator, in stock at the local parts store for $110 w/the core. Done... picking it up today.

OverkillYJ 06-27-2013 10:28 AM

How many amps is your alternator? Mine had a 90 so I dropped in a 136amp. Only cost like $20 more and was a direct swap.

sevenservices 06-27-2013 10:34 AM

not sure, prob. 90 because its stock. Its the original, 1994 w/just over 170,000

I'll look into higher amp ones before I buy it. I don't run a lot yet but hoping a winch is in the future lol.

OverkillYJ 06-27-2013 10:42 AM

Yeah the 136 I got is from a Grand Cherokee. Cant remember the year, but it is easy to find the info. Only mod I had to make was to run the power output directly to the battery through a breaker.

wasomma 06-27-2013 01:42 PM

cool let us know if it solved it

sevenservices 06-27-2013 02:51 PM

Will do. We've got a benefit dinner tonight to raise money for sexually abused kids through the local child center. Anything to help 'em raise money!

Aside from that, since I tapped on the alternator its back up to 14v. I'm planning to change it out either late tonight or tomorrow after work. Maybe Saturday depending on how things go.

OverkillYJ 06-27-2013 03:15 PM

If you have a 6 I think you got a 120 amp. I have a 2.5 which is why I had a 90 amp.

1993YJr 06-29-2013 01:22 PM

I have a 136 amp from a 1997 5.2 dakota. Direct fit and works great.

sevenservices 07-02-2013 12:12 PM

ok guys, update... I picked up the alternator late last week. It says 115amp. Installed and my issues are gone. I'd imagine that the way the alternator started making a wooshing sound when I tapped on it with a breaker bar that either its really getting crappy inside or the brushes are sticking. I did clean it once w/brake clean and compressed air but it was still flakey. I considered rebuilding it but, we run a lot of trails I wanted to just go w/a new one. If I can, I try to keep it mostly dependable lol.

Regardless, the new one is in and she's running perfect. Jumps right to 14v, no misfires and no check engine light. I put it in Thursday evening so its been 5 days and about 80-90 miles so far. These engines are so tempermental when it comes to power. Even running w/12v she was pretty pissed off and would miss all the time on me. Makes me wonder if half of the issues out here for misfires, rough idle, etc... could just be bad battery connections. They'll run off just the battery yes, but they don't have to like it lol.

sevenservices 07-08-2013 07:11 AM

Just about a week into it, still running great... Actually got to spend some time over the weekend re-working my drivers door. Patched some steel up by the window edge, pulled the inside skin and fixed my outer door handle & oiled it so it doesn't pop past the latch anymore then cleaned and greased my hinges and put it all back together.


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