Jeep Wrangler Forum

Jeep Wrangler Forum (http://www.wranglerforum.com/)
-   YJ Tech Forum (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f218/)
-   -   Odd break sound (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f218/odd-break-sound-253227.html)

The Silver Gorilla 07-02-2013 05:55 PM

Odd break sound
 
OK guys here is the run down, not to sure whats going on. When i drive i hear a odd metal on metal like rubbing sound coming from my drivers side front breaks. In my break dust i do see small flakes of metal. i just took my wheel off to look at the caliper but idk what to look for, it looks like the break are like slightly engaged. Its not enough to hold my jeep back or anything noticeable. But any ideas how to fix this? Im poor so the cheapest way would be the best haha

Garyk 07-02-2013 06:27 PM

What do the pads look like? Sounds like they are worn out.

JWBooth 07-02-2013 07:09 PM

Mine started that when the pads were worn through to the rivets and digging in rotors. Left front went first and it's an ugly, ugly metal on metal sound. Think I got both front rotors and pads switched out for around $100

Cashcrazy 07-02-2013 07:44 PM

Take a picture and post it of the brake pads.

The Silver Gorilla 07-02-2013 08:59 PM

Dont know how to take the calipers off or how to take the pads off. The rotters are looking warn into. Idk i might just take it to a place and have em fix the brakes, as bad as that sounds as a jeep owner.

bubbadah 07-02-2013 11:34 PM

Most places will check your breaks for free. Having said that I had not done brakes in twenty years. I had no issues, I had the rotors turned at the parts store. Then I replaced the calipers and pads. Probably the biggest hassle was bleeding the system. I found a u tube video that showed me how to do that. I even did the rear drum brakes, now that was was a pain. The Jeep seems to stop whenever I apply breaks, I can barely keep it running but when I want to stop, it stops. Pity you don't live in Nor Cal, this project I can handle.

The Silver Gorilla 07-02-2013 11:46 PM

Haha yeah that is to bad, i might run it by a place tomorrow.

The Silver Gorilla 07-02-2013 11:47 PM

i am having a more difficult time stopping also

The Silver Gorilla 07-03-2013 12:12 AM

Lets stay its a stuck caliper,how would i go about releasing it?

90DesertTanYJ 07-03-2013 07:15 AM

OK first of all they are BRAKES not breaks. Breaks are what our YJs do not give us when needed, lol. When the caliper sticks it is generally where the caliper body generally is catching on the pins they ride on.. The caliper slides on these pins and when it sticks, the pad will be held hard against the rotor making all kinds of bad noises and severe pulling to the right or left. As I recall, new or rebuilt calipers are only about $20 with new pins so get you some. If your rotors are badly scored and you just stuck pads on them both of those should be replaced as well. For the same $100 you could have had brand new brakes up front if you did the work yourself. It isnt hard at all, get an FSM or Chiltons and have at it. Check for 4X4 clubs in the area and ask for help. You would be amazed how much help you can get for a few beers and a sammich.

89Saharagreen 07-03-2013 10:51 AM

you tube is your friend if no 4x4 clubs are near by. Breaks all PUN's intended on that! are easy to do even for a novice.

the pads come right off all you need is a good 6 inch c clamp to push the cylinder back up.

With out doing a complete write up buy some brake cleaner and pads and rotors and go to it. It is a simple bolt on item and assuming you do not disconnect any of the brake lines you should not even have to bleed the system. And do it now before you rear end someone

JWBooth 07-03-2013 04:32 PM

Stop the madness!!!!!!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by The Silver Gorilla (Post 3922616)
i am having a more difficult time stopping also

Look bro, if you can't stop your brakes are SHOT!!! That's like driving in the dark with no headlights. Your pads are worn so thin the caliper's completely extended and won't compress back in without a little help. I'm an amateur mechanic- at best- and replaced mine a just over a month ago. If you have a jack, tire wrench and a pair of pliers (ratchet/socket's easier, just say'n) YOU GOT THIS!!!! The right side took me 45 mins and the left took 10. They back together the same way the came apart. I lucked out and didn't even need to bleed them.

Just Youtube it and you'll see it's not as complicated as you're what thinking. Then go to AZ, tell them what you need (don't forget the brake grease) and replace those damn things before somebody gets hurt.


-JDub

JWBooth 07-03-2013 04:34 PM

Actually this video is pretty much right on. (and no, I don't work for AZ...!!!!! It's just the closest place to my house to get parts and sh-t.)

AutoZone - Video Library

-JDub

The Silver Gorilla 07-03-2013 04:53 PM

I would like to do it myself, but its raining everyday here in florida, ima just bring it up to tire kingdom and have em fix this. im not a fan of fixing things in the rain haha

western196611 07-03-2013 04:59 PM

I just had to do mine on my YJ. My brakes wore out prematurely due to rotten brake hoses. They would let my brakes work but not let them release. Pads were 35.00 My calipers were $20 each with a $20 core charge which I got back. the hoses were aprox $30 each. I didn't need rotors but they were 25 each. All from AutoZone.

The Silver Gorilla 07-03-2013 05:41 PM

CHANGE OF PLANS. surprise surprise the guy was trying to upsell me and wanted to basically replace everything, but he did tell me i need new break pads so im going to do this myself after all. Going to replace the pads then take it up to Crystal river with the "good ol boys" and some beer and make sure there are no other problems.

The Silver Gorilla 07-03-2013 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWBooth (Post 3924639)
Look bro, if you can't stop your brakes are SHOT!!! That's like driving in the dark with no headlights. Your pads are worn so thin the caliper's completely extended and won't compress back in without a little help. I'm an amateur mechanic- at best- and replaced mine a just over a month ago. If you have a jack, tire wrench and a pair of pliers (ratchet/socket's easier, just say'n) YOU GOT THIS!!!! The right side took me 45 mins and the left took 10. They back together the same way the came apart. I lucked out and didn't even need to bleed them.

Just Youtube it and you'll see it's not as complicated as you're what thinking. Then go to AZ, tell them what you need (don't forget the brake grease) and replace those damn things before somebody gets hurt.


-JDub

Now I'm just going to replace the pads for now, and maybe shave my rotor since they have some grooves. But if im just replacing pads would i need to bleed the system?

JWBooth 07-03-2013 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Silver Gorilla (Post 3924877)
Now I'm just going to replace the pads for now, and maybe shave my rotor since they have some grooves. But if im just replacing pads would i need to bleed the system?

Dunno about that one, from what I've read/heard the "need to bleed" seems to be hit and miss. If the caliper is stuck out or extended and won't push back in, I assume you'll need to pop the top off the master cylinder (seems easiest???) to release the pressure in the lines and then you gotta bleed 'em.

Y'all enjoy the 4th o' July.
-JDub

The Silver Gorilla 07-03-2013 06:52 PM

yeah i hear you can just compress them back so you dont need to bleed, because i did just replace the break fluid so i know its clean. Now what are you thoughts on organic,simi metallic and ceramic brakes? are ceramics work the $50?

Getnoff 07-03-2013 08:04 PM

No need to bleed. Pull wheel. Remove the 2 (10mm?) bolts that attatch caliper. Swing it out and zip tie it out of the way and pull off pads front and rear. Put c clamp on piston and screw down till flush. Do pull master cyl cover off and it should be low. As u screw in c clamp the brake fld level in master cyl will raise. Syphin out if needed. Install new pads. Use a non squeal grease that u can buy cheap at auto parts store. Reassemble. Check master cyl for full. Drink beer.
Good luck.
Troy
Btw, where in florida ru?

The Silver Gorilla 07-03-2013 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Getnoff (Post 3925251)
No need to bleed. Pull wheel. Remove the 2 (10mm?) bolts that attatch caliper. Swing it out and zip tie it out of the way and pull off pads front and rear. Put c clamp on piston and screw down till flush. Do pull master cyl cover off and it should be low. As u screw in c clamp the brake fld level in master cyl will raise. Syphin out if needed. Install new pads. Use a non squeal grease that u can buy cheap at auto parts store. Reassemble. Check master cyl for full. Drink beer.
Good luck.
Troy
Btw, where in florida ru?

Thanks,iv been looking at some videos on how to do it. Im in the Tampa area. Just look for a silver jeep with a cow skull on it haha

Mbclark 07-03-2013 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Silver Gorilla (Post 3925040)
yeah i hear you can just compress them back so you dont need to bleed, because i did just replace the break fluid so i know its clean. Now what are you thoughts on organic,simi metallic and ceramic brakes? are ceramics work the $50?

Some rotors can't handle ceramic pads. Material is so hard it will eat up rotors. Best is to stick with OEM unless you know your rotors can handle it. Don't forget to put fresh grease in the caliper slide pins because you don't want those sticking.

The Silver Gorilla 07-03-2013 08:59 PM

good to know, but the guy said i wouldn't need to rotors but they may need to be "shaved down"

Mbclark 07-03-2013 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Silver Gorilla (Post 3925464)
good to know, but the guy said i wouldn't need to rotors but they may need to be "shaved down"

Yes always either have the rotors machined or replace them when replacing the pads, even surfaces are important. Then grease the back of the pad where it contacts the caliper and piston, also grease the slide pins as I mentioned. You'll get many miles of trouble free driving.

The Silver Gorilla 07-03-2013 09:50 PM

Hmm i dont wana buy a cheep rotor, any suggestions? It looks like only one has to be replaced since it has grooves in it.

Mbclark 07-03-2013 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Silver Gorilla (Post 3925634)
Hmm i dont wana buy a cheep rotor, any suggestions? It looks like only one has to be replaced since it has grooves in it.

If the tech said they just needed to be turned I'm assuming he measured them and they were within tolerance. If that's the case they don't need to be replaced, they need to machined. Most brake shops will do it for about $8 each if you bring them the rotors. If you have a Napa Auto Parts around they usually offer it. You only need to replace when they can't be turned anymore or the grooves are too deep to machine out and stay within tolerance. I personally buy new rotors on my first brake job and then take the old ones down to be machined and stick them in the garage for next time. This way I save time and always have a fresh set of rotors. As I mentioned in my previous comment, never just replace pads! Always have nice smooth even machined surface with a new set if pads. They'll last longer, work better, be quieter and most of all stop better.

The Silver Gorilla 07-05-2013 04:23 PM

OK is there a trick to putting the calipers back on? im trying to put the bulbs back but its like the break pads are to large. any advice?

Getnoff 07-05-2013 04:33 PM

This is why u need to use a c clamp and push piston in to make room for the full new pads. B carefull that u do not let the brake fluid spill out of the master cyl when u do it. Open cap on cyl and syphin a bit out if it is near the top. If it is a little low, u should be fine...just keep an eye on it.
Troy

The Silver Gorilla 07-05-2013 05:01 PM

I did i pushed it all the way back, imma pop the hood and look, havnt seen any fall but ill double check.

The Silver Gorilla 07-05-2013 05:21 PM

There is not enough room between the caliper and the piece of metal the the bolt screws into.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:59 PM.