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-   -   Will this improve my ride? Or am I way off? (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/will-this-improve-my-ride-or-am-i-way-off-256055.html)

lovemachine 07-15-2013 05:57 PM

Will this improve my ride? Or am I way off?
 
Ok I have a 2005 Sport. It has a 4" Skyjacker kit, running 33x12.5 tires, and I have factory gearing and a Transfer case lower kit. And OME shocks.

I made a lot of mistakes when I had the lift installed years ago. 2 years ago I had new bushings installed, and had the OME shocks installed, along with a steering stabilizer.

I want to start improving the ride/handling on my jeep. Will this do it? Or am I missing something?

Currie Currectlync steering kit.
New pitman arm.
Track bar. (I am assuming I will want an adjustable? Possibly Currie or JKS. And I also read something about needing bumpstop extensions?)
Currie adjustable Johnny joint control arms. All 8.
SYE
Regear.

So will that make a HUGE improvement? Or am I completely wrong, and just need to sell my jeep for something else?

I want to learn, and I need some help and more knowledge.

NJO 07-15-2013 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lovemachine (Post 3965561)
Ok I have a 2005 Sport. It has a 4" Skyjacker kit, running 33x12.5 tires, and I have factory gearing and a Transfer case lower kit. And OME shocks.

I made a lot of mistakes when I had the lift installed years ago. 2 years ago I had new bushings installed, and had the OME shocks installed, along with a steering stabilizer.

I want to start improving the ride/handling on my jeep. Will this do it? Or am I missing something?

Currie Currectlync steering kit.
New pitman arm.
Track bar. (I am assuming I will want an adjustable? Possibly Currie or JKS. And I also read something about needing bumpstop extensions?)
Currie adjustable Johnny joint control arms. All 8.
SYE
Regear.

So will that make a HUGE improvement? Or am I completely wrong, and just need to sell my jeep for something else?

I want to learn, and I need some help and more knowledge.

A. Currie COrrectlync waste of money for 33's.....if you want to upgrade the steering best bet is the ZJ tie rod. Can be done for under $75.
B. Keep stock pitman arm.
C. Trackbar to center axle sure. Best bet actually is the new Metal Cloak unit. Its the trackbar with the most clearance and needs no bumpstopping. Its also half the price of the Currie unit too.
D. Currie adjustable control arms are good. Metal Cloak duroflex control arms are better.....same price. THey use self centering joints that have more flex than JJ's and will reduce cabin vibrations. They are also very easy to fieldstrip, maintain and replace requiring no special tools.
E. SYE/DS combo would also be good idea........surprised you haven't done so already.
F. Regear will help bring back your power and gas mileage.

Gary2 07-15-2013 06:11 PM

I had all JJ's on my Savvy control arms and have since replaced the JJs with Metalcloak Duroflex joints . Their is no comparison in the ride on or off-road as any one who has actually run both will tell you . Save a step and go Metalcloak arms

lovemachine 07-15-2013 07:46 PM

From reading, I always got the impression that Currie was the best way to go...

NJO 07-15-2013 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lovemachine (Post 3966000)
From reading, I always got the impression that Currie was the best way to go...

That would have been true a few years ago. But on identical products that MC and Currie make the MC's are proving to be superior and have been now for a few years, especially their new duraflex control arms.

In my wheeling club alone about a half dozen people have switched from JJ's to MC's duraflex arms and bushings. 3 others not including myself have bought new MC control arms outright from stock. Metal Cloak has always been know as a top rated mfg. for bumpers and fenders, but their new suspension products are proving to be innovative and superior in many ways.

lovemachine 07-15-2013 08:26 PM

In my OP, do I have the right idea? Would those upgrades make a big difference?

NJO 07-16-2013 08:44 AM

Read post #2.

Jerry Bransford 07-16-2013 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lovemachine (Post 3965561)
Ok I have a 2005 Sport. It has a 4" Skyjacker kit, running 33x12.5 tires, and I have factory gearing and a Transfer case lower kit. And OME shocks.

I made a lot of mistakes when I had the lift installed years ago. 2 years ago I had new bushings installed, and had the OME shocks installed, along with a steering stabilizer.

I want to start improving the ride/handling on my jeep. Will this do it? Or am I missing something?

Currie Currectlync steering kit.
New pitman arm.
Track bar. (I am assuming I will want an adjustable? Possibly Currie or JKS. And I also read something about needing bumpstop extensions?)
Currie adjustable Johnny joint control arms. All 8.
SYE
Regear.

So will that make a HUGE improvement? Or am I completely wrong, and just need to sell my jeep for something else?

I want to learn, and I need some help and more knowledge.

None of those will actually improve the ride, that is a function of the shock choice (your OMEs are very good give a great ride) and/or tire pressure. What tire pressure are you running?

Do not install a dropped Pitman arm. Most of the steering issues we see here on the various forums are caused by clueless shops or owners installing dropped Pitman arms which are rarely the right thing to install. Installing a dropped Pitman arm usually screws up the steering geometry which causes bump steer which is the steering being forced left/right as the suspension moves up/down like over a bump/dip in the road.

Most experienced Jeepers prefer and run the Currie steering system, it is problem free and doesn't create steering geometry issues like many others do. It also has a lot more thought and engineering in areas few inexperienced Jeepers are aware of. It is a little more costly than some but those who run it love it. I've run it on both of my TJs & installed it on a half-dozen other TJs.

For better offroad performance, I'd add Currie's front Antirock antiswaybar system. Installing a front Antirock provides a better balance between the front & rear suspensions so they work together rather than fight each other. It also makes the Jeep more stable & a lot less tip-prone or roll-prone on extremely off-camber or steep terrain. Not to mention it eliminates the need to disconnect the front antiswaybar for offroading. Keep the rear antiswaybar installed.

It's real hard to beat Currie's Johnny Joint control arms. They're not cheap but, again, experienced Jeepers who push their Jeeps hard like them a lot because they hold up and have an enormous range of motion/flex.

For your 4" suspension lift, f/r adjustable length track bars are recommended. At least in the front for sure. For the rear, you can install a trackbar relocation bracket that will do a good job at recentering the axle, though an adjustable length track bar would be preferrable. Trackbar relocation brackets are available specifically designed for particular lift heights so look for one that matches your 4" lift height which will be best for getting your rear axle centered as well as possible.

Regearing your axles for 33" tires will make a huge improvement in overall performance and likely even improve your mpg. The correct axle ratio for your 33" tires depends on your transmission type whether you have the 2.5L or 4.0L engine. What transmission & engine do you have?

And yes for sure, it's time for the SYE and CV driveshaft. Tom Wood would be a great source for both, his pre-sale and post-sale support is unsurpassed. With this, you can get rid of your tcase drop. Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

Hope that helps...

Imped 07-16-2013 09:20 AM

Jerry mispelling Johnny?

I'm sure Mr. Currie wouldn't appreciate that. ;)

PM'd lovemachine.

lovemachine 07-16-2013 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford (Post 3967894)
None of those will actually improve the ride, that is a function of the shock choice (your OMEs are very good give a great ride) and/or tire pressure. What tire pressure are you running?

Do not install a dropped Pitman arm. Most of the steering issues we see here on the various forums are caused by clueless shops or owners installing dropped Pitman arms which are rarely the right thing to install. Installing a dropped Pitman arm usually screws up the steering geometry which causes bump steer which is the steering being forced left/right as the suspension moves up/down like over a bump/dip in the road.

Most experienced Jeepers prefer and run the Currie steering system, it is problem free and doesn't create steering geometry issues like many others do. It also has a lot more thought and engineering in areas few inexperienced Jeepers are aware of. It is a little more costly than some but those who run it love it. I've run it on both of my TJs & installed it on a half-dozen other TJs.

For better offroad performance, I'd add Currie's front Antirock antiswaybar system. Installing a front Antirock provides a better balance between the front & rear suspensions so they work together rather than fight each other. It also makes the Jeep more stable & a lot less tip-prone or roll-prone on extremely off-camber or steep terrain. Not to mention it eliminates the need to disconnect the front antiswaybar for offroading. Keep the rear antiswaybar installed.

It's real hard to beat Currie's Johnny Joint control arms. They're not cheap but, again, experienced Jeepers who push their Jeeps hard like them a lot because they hold up and have an enormous range of motion/flex.

For your 4" suspension lift, f/r adjustable length track bars are recommended. At least in the front for sure. For the rear, you can install a trackbar relocation bracket that will do a good job at recentering the axle, though an adjustable length track bar would be preferrable. Trackbar relocation brackets are available specifically designed for particular lift heights so look for one that matches your 4" lift height which will be best for getting your rear axle centered as well as possible.

Regearing your axles for 33" tires will make a huge improvement in overall performance and likely even improve your mpg. The correct axle ratio for your 33" tires depends on your transmission type whether you have the 2.5L or 4.0L engine. What transmission & engine do you have?

And yes for sure, it's time for the SYE and CV driveshaft. Tom Wood would be a great source for both, his pre-sale and post-sale support is unsurpassed. With this, you can get rid of your tcase drop. Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

Hope that helps...

I run about 27-29 psi in the tires. It's an auto, 4.0.

If I was to do all the above, would that eliminate the need for the steering stabilizer? It was installed when I had the bushings replaced.



Quote:

Originally Posted by Imped (Post 3967931)
Jerry mispelling Johnny?

I'm sure Mr. Currie wouldn't appreciate that. ;)

PM'd lovemachine.

I got your PM. Will be responding soon!

NJO 07-16-2013 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lovemachine (Post 3968023)
I run about 27-29 psi in the tires. It's an auto, 4.0.

If I was to do all the above, would that eliminate the need for the steering stabilizer? It was installed when I had the bushings replaced.





I got your PM. Will be responding soon!

Your best bet is to hold off on blind buying anything, read and research.

lovemachine 07-16-2013 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJO (Post 3968074)
Your best bet is to hold off on blind buying anything, read and research.

How am I blind buying?

I thought it was obvious I have done enough researched to know that the parts I'm asking about are better, way better, than I have now?

At least I'm not asking about running a body lift or coil spacers to be able to have 35" tires on a D35.

Jerry Bransford 07-16-2013 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lovemachine (Post 3968023)
I run about 27-29 psi in the tires. It's an auto, 4.0.

If I was to do all the above, would that eliminate the need for the steering stabilizer? It was installed when I had the bushings replaced.

A steering stabilizer is an important part of your front-end, with a better/more accurate term for it being a steering damper. Its pimary job is to absorb the jolts & shocks of bumps & dips on what you're driving on, and less to help stabilize the steering on the street. So even with everything recommended, a steering stabilizer should still be used.

27-28 is fine for 33" tires, I normally recommend 26-28 for most tires in that size. :)

NJO 07-16-2013 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lovemachine (Post 3968140)

How am I blind buying?

I thought it was obvious I have done enough researched to know that the parts I'm asking about are better, way better, than I have now?

At least I'm not asking about running a body lift or coil spacers to be able to have 35" tires on a D35.

Your last post concerning the steering stabilizer shows you would be wise to read....research....and learn.....we have all been there. :)


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