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-   -   Hit bump, front end shakes (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/hit-bump-front-end-shakes-269417.html)

Willson 09-01-2013 01:32 AM

Hit bump, front end shakes
 
I've been having a little issue that I've been noticing.

I have a 2012 wrangler unlimited about 22k miles on it..

When breaking steering wheel turns slightly back and forth side to side....

When hitting a bump in the road the steering wheel goes from side to side and the front end shakes to where I have to slow down to 20 MPH to get it to stop.. Any ideas?

I've read, check your tie rods, look for slop, I've read tighten your gear box..
With such low mileage on the jeep I wouldn't think any things worn out or bent as of yet.

TRAUMAhead 09-01-2013 01:36 AM

When the front end shakes, does it feel like the vehicle is falling apart? Check out Planman's thread about death wobble.

Willson 09-01-2013 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRAUMAhead (Post 4184257)
When the front end shakes, does it feel like the vehicle is falling apart? Check out Planman's thread about death wobble.

Nothing has broke as of yet but I feel if I were to stay steady at the speed I was at and not slow down i think it would fall apart.

Now I just read something about the steering motor, aye...

Tweak 09-01-2013 01:47 AM

Play in the track bar. The main cause 99.99999% of the time

TRAUMAhead 09-01-2013 01:51 AM

Check here: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/dia...les-78034.html

Get a torque wrench and torque your track bar bolts to 125lbs.

http://blog.bushwacker.com/wp-conten...d-diagram.jpeg

Willson 09-01-2013 01:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tweak (Post 4184401)
Play in the track bar. The main cause 99.99999% of the time

I don't know much about suspension on jeeps, I'm new to them. I know what a steering stabilizer bar is, because I had to replace mine. And I know what I have to turn to get the steering wheel to be straight again, after hitting a large bump I had to center the steering wheel.. Tie rods because my 87 Dakota broke on me in high school. That's about it...

Willson 09-01-2013 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRAUMAhead (Post 4184465)
Check here: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/dia...les-78034.html

Get a torque wrench and torque your track bar bolts to 125lbs.

Oh VERY awesome pic, the drag link to move the steering wheel to center ;) ill definitely check the track bar

Willson 09-01-2013 01:58 AM

Any torque specs for the drag link since in messed with that? I'll check that too when I get a torque wrench..

TRAUMAhead 09-01-2013 02:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willson (Post 4184553)
Any torque specs for the drag link since in messed with that? I'll check that too when I get a torque wrench..

Harbor Freight has their torque wrenches on sale for $12 bucks right now. I torque my track bar to 130lbs since the HF wrench is probably not that accurate. Here's a torque chart: Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource Jeep JK Wrangler Torque Settings

jrussblues 09-01-2013 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willson (Post 4184209)
I've been having a little issue that I've been noticing.

I have a 2012 wrangler unlimited about 22k miles on it..

When breaking steering wheel turns slightly back and forth side to side....

When hitting a bump in the road the steering wheel goes from side to side and the front end shakes to where I have to slow down to 20 MPH to get it to stop.. Any ideas?

I've read, check your tie rods, look for slop, I've read tighten your gear box..
With such low mileage on the jeep I wouldn't think any things worn out or bent as of yet.

In theory a low mileage vehicle shouldn't have those issues...but I have seen tie rod ends and ball joints fail on 12's with less mileage. Since you are under warranty, Go to the dealer, tell them you want all of your steering components inspected and if they tell you it's a bad steering stabilizer....slap the piss out of them and tell them to check again. On tj's it was much more common to see a loose track bar be the problem, on Jk's it's tie rod ends (particularly on the drag link) and ball joints that are most commonly bad, and those can only be replaced. It doesn't hurt to check and tighten that track bar up, but you can tighten it till you can't umph anymore with a .5"drive socket wrench and that should be plenty, without going and getting a torque wrench. Then again, a torque wrench is a great thing to have handy.

Willson 09-01-2013 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRAUMAhead (Post 4184657)
Harbor Freight has their torque wrenches on sale for $12 bucks right now. I torque my track bar to 130lbs since the HF wrench is probably not that accurate. Here's a torque chart: Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource Jeep JK Wrangler Torque Settings

Nice. I just got the Harbor Freight paper yesterday in the mail, I was going to check it out today. Looks like I'm making a trip there today.

Willson 09-01-2013 11:21 AM

Thanks for the info. I'm going to have to take it to back to the dealership here pretty soon as I had a leak coming out one of the ends of my axle. I took it in and they told me it was my internal differential seal? I think? Well my differential cap has RTV all around it, but whatever they did inside its still leaking out over my wheel.

Tweak 09-01-2013 11:59 AM

Willson, lay under your jeep with your body under the front diff, look up at the connection of the track bar and the frame and have someone move the steering in short left right left right movements as fast as they possibly can. any play should become evident.

jrussblues 09-01-2013 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willson (Post 4190105)
Thanks for the info. I'm going to have to take it to back to the dealership here pretty soon as I had a leak coming out one of the ends of my axle. I took it in and they told me it was my internal differential seal? I think? Well my differential cap has RTV all around it, but whatever they did inside its still leaking out over my wheel.

I'm going to put money on ball joints...everyone place your bet.
Ball joints going bad will allow your axle shaft itself to move up and down at the hub, which can wallow out the seal or at least let a little fluid by.

TRAUMAhead 09-01-2013 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willson (Post 4190105)
Thanks for the info. I'm going to have to take it to back to the dealership here pretty soon as I had a leak coming out one of the ends of my axle. I took it in and they told me it was my internal differential seal? I think? Well my differential cap has RTV all around it, but whatever they did inside its still leaking out over my wheel.

This isn't a solid axle, but the same thing, it's part 2 in the picture. The seal they're talking about is on each side of the pumpkin where the axle tubes begin.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/go..._axle_seal.gif

Willson 09-01-2013 05:24 PM

I read that the track bar bolts should be 14mm? Mine are 21mm unless I'm not looking at the track bar.

Pushrod 09-01-2013 06:12 PM

Don't confuse the bolt head size as the bolt size. I really think you have two problems, worn or loose steering components and a warped brake rotor. Your description of steering wheel shaking side to side while braking is classic warped rotor symptom. If it is warped the shake will decrease some as your speed decreases while braking.

Willson 09-01-2013 06:13 PM

The only thing I've found was the passenger side sway link bar at the top was loose.

sbpunk 09-01-2013 08:16 PM

The welds on the track bars are weak as all hell. I would start there. Not sure if anyone suggested it since I don't have the patience to read through all the comments but thats what broke when my buddy jumped his 08'

Willson 09-01-2013 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbpunk (Post 4199969)
The welds on the track bars are weak as all hell. I would start there. Not sure if anyone suggested it since I don't have the patience to read through all the comments but thats what broke when my buddy jumped his 08'

They suggested the track bar bolts might be loose and to put them at 125 ft lbs. only I read another thread says the bolts to the track bar are 14mm but mine are 21mm?

PHILDABEAST 09-01-2013 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willson (Post 4200729)

They suggested the track bar bolts might be loose and to put them at 125 ft lbs. only I read another thread says the bolts to the track bar are 14mm but mine are 21mm?

14MM is the size of the actual bolt, 21mm is just the size of the head.

Willson 09-01-2013 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHILDABEAST (Post 4201105)

14MM is the size of the actual bolt, 21mm is just the size of the head.

Oh! Haha thanks for clearing that up.

Tweak 09-01-2013 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willson (Post 4197481)
The only thing I've found was the passenger side sway link bar at the top was loose.

this is very likely your problem. a fraction of an inch of play in that bolt translates to a LOT in your steering geometry. replace it with a 9/16 grade 8 fine thread bolt immediately. one without threads the entire length of the bolt. I find them at tractor supply for $2 each. this was the problem I had. it started as a loose bolt and ended with me having to weld 2 1/4" plates on each side of the bracket and drill 9/16" holes in them. this immediately ceased all of my wobbles.

the crappy thing about wobbles is that they do not get better unless you do something, and the advice I am giving you will save you the headaches I have had to endure.

jrussblues 09-02-2013 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tweak (Post 4205945)

this is very likely your problem. a fraction of an inch of play in that bolt translates to a LOT in your steering geometry. replace it with a 9/16 grade 8 fine thread bolt immediately. one without threads the entire length of the bolt. I find them at tractor supply for $2 each. this was the problem I had. it started as a loose bolt and ended with me having to weld 2 1/4" plates on each side of the bracket and drill 9/16" holes in them. this immediately ceased all of my wobbles.

the crappy thing about wobbles is that they do not get better unless you do something, and the advice I am giving you will save you the headaches I have had to endure.

Didn't know you could replace just the threaded stud at the top of an end link.

kjeeper10 09-02-2013 01:38 AM

A sway bar link loose wont cause a steering shimmy. Clunking and maybe some sway if both sides were bad. Shimmy no

Willson 09-04-2013 11:29 AM

After I spent some time under the Jeep over the weekend and inspecting the track bar bushings, bolts, and brackets where the bolts sit. I couldn't find any rubbing or wear, the bolts look brand new. I also checked the torque on other parts and couldn't locate anything.

So the Jeep went to the dealership yesterday to get the axle leak fixed again and hopefully they can locate the wobble issue. Ill let you all know what was wrong so those taking bets can collect. ;)

ElectricJay 09-04-2013 11:44 AM

:popcorn::popcorn:

Willson 09-04-2013 07:15 PM

Dealership calls and said its the after market stabilizer shock. I said, I just bought the thing about 5 months ago. They said they are positive it's that stabilizer bar..

kjeeper10 09-04-2013 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willson (Post 4288713)
Dealership calls and said its the after market stabilizer shock. I said, I just bought the thing about 5 months ago. They said they are positive it's that stabilizer bar..

Hell no .... :facepalm:

jrussblues 09-04-2013 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willson (Post 4288713)
Dealership calls and said its the after market stabilizer shock. I said, I just bought the thing about 5 months ago. They said they are positive it's that stabilizer bar..

If you think about it mechanically...that makes no sense whatsoever. I would ask if they could explain what a stabilizer does. I would also ask them to explain how the stabilizer can blow inner axle seals. They will not be able to answer either question accurately.


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