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-   -   Hardtop storage dolly plans? (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f19/hardtop-storage-dolly-plans-28539.html)

Rudds 03-31-2009 03:31 PM

Hardtop storage dolly plans?
 
I have seen you can buy a set of plans to build ur own hartop storage dolly so i was wondering if somebody had a copy of those...or if not a good idea how to store my hardtop with out spending 150 bucks.....

jpdocdave 03-31-2009 03:32 PM

i bought one off ebay used one season for half that. it is a great thing to have though.

Rudds 03-31-2009 03:55 PM

yea ive been checking ebay weekly and havent seen anything yet

tet1070 04-01-2009 09:35 AM

I just built one out of wood to set in the corner. I put cloth around the contact points so that the top wouldn't get damaged. Only thing that it cost me was screws, the wood was given to me.

jgano23 04-01-2009 09:45 AM

Parts list
1) 1 59 inch length of 1x2
2) 2 30 inch lengths of 2x4
3) 2 59 inch lengths of 2x4
4) 6 6 inch lengths of 2x4
5) 8 1/2 inch long wood screws
6) 2 1 1/2 inch wood screws
7) 20 3 inch long wood screws
8) 4 2 inch swivel wheels. Poly, plastic or metal wheels will all work - locking wheels are optional - recommended if your storage surface is uneven.
9) Optional: Two 12x2 cuts of Foam, felt or soft fabric





Tools needed for construction / assembly

1) Philips screw driver OR Philips bit for electric drill
2) Electric Drill
3) Hand saw OR power saw
4) Drill bit 5/32

Construction / assembly instructions

1) Lay the two 59" 2x4's parallel to each other on level and solid work space. Floor works well.
2) Lay the two 30" 2x4 pieces over the top of the longer (59" pieces) creating a rectangle (Fig 1)
3) Drill two 5/32 starter holes for the screws in each corner
4) Screw each corner together filling all holes using 3" screws
5) Place each wheel on the outside edge of the 59" piece of 2x4 allowing enough room for the wheel to turn 360 degrees (Figure 3)
6) Screw wheels in place using at least two screws per wheel placed diagonally to each other using 1/2" long wood screws.
7) Turn rack over with wheel side down (Figure 2)
8) Measure 9.5 inches in from either side, place the 59 inch 1x2 at that location. Drill a 5/32 starter hole on each end then screw in place using one 1 1/2 inch screw on each end. (this window bar is in place to hold your rear window closed)
9) On the farthest 59" 2x4 from the window bar measure 10.5 inches from each end and mark these locations for the 6" rear support pieces to be installed (Figure 2).
10) Place one 6" 2x4 on each of your marked location, drill two 5/32 starter holes in each piece then screw in place using two 3" screws per block. Continue stacking, drilling starter holes and screwing 6" pieces in place until each stack is 3 pieces high ( Figure 2)
11) Optional: Pad the tops of the rear support pieces with foam, felt or soft fabric
12) Figure 4 shows placement of hardtop on the dolly.

Rudds 04-01-2009 11:50 AM

thanks for the post....if i could get a pic of that completed that would help alot

DLM 10-16-2009 06:18 PM

Hard Top Dolly Plans
 
I an not sure I would buy one when a Dolly can be constructed easily. Jeep Wrangler hard Top Dollies are very easy and inexpensive to build. They can be made of wood or PCP piping. I personally feel wood is the lease expensive, fastest and easiest way to put a dolly together. There is a FREE download at Performance Jeep Chrysler : Jeep Parts and Accessories - PerformanceJeepChrysler.com 888-569-5228

DLM 10-18-2009 11:28 AM

Jeep Hard Top Storage Dolly Plans
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by jgano23 (Post 347557)
Parts list
1) 1 59 inch length of 1x2
2) 2 30 inch lengths of 2x4
3) 2 59 inch lengths of 2x4
4) 6 6 inch lengths of 2x4
5) 8 1/2 inch long wood screws
6) 2 1 1/2 inch wood screws
7) 20 3 inch long wood screws
8) 4 2 inch swivel wheels. Poly, plastic or metal wheels will all work - locking wheels are optional - recommended if your storage surface is uneven.
9) Optional: Two 12x2 cuts of Foam, felt or soft fabric





Tools needed for construction / assembly

1) Philips screw driver OR Philips bit for electric drill
2) Electric Drill
3) Hand saw OR power saw
4) Drill bit 5/32

Construction / assembly instructions

1) Lay the two 59" 2x4's parallel to each other on level and solid work space. Floor works well.
2) Lay the two 30" 2x4 pieces over the top of the longer (59" pieces) creating a rectangle (Fig 1)
3) Drill two 5/32 starter holes for the screws in each corner
4) Screw each corner together filling all holes using 3" screws
5) Place each wheel on the outside edge of the 59" piece of 2x4 allowing enough room for the wheel to turn 360 degrees (Figure 3)
6) Screw wheels in place using at least two screws per wheel placed diagonally to each other using 1/2" long wood screws.
7) Turn rack over with wheel side down (Figure 2)
8) Measure 9.5 inches in from either side, place the 59 inch 1x2 at that location. Drill a 5/32 starter hole on each end then screw in place using one 1 1/2 inch screw on each end. (this window bar is in place to hold your rear window closed)
9) On the farthest 59" 2x4 from the window bar measure 10.5 inches from each end and mark these locations for the 6" rear support pieces to be installed (Figure 2).
10) Place one 6" 2x4 on each of your marked location, drill two 5/32 starter holes in each piece then screw in place using two 3" screws per block. Continue stacking, drilling starter holes and screwing 6" pieces in place until each stack is 3 pieces high ( Figure 2)
11) Optional: Pad the tops of the rear support pieces with foam, felt or soft fabric
12) Figure 4 shows placement of hardtop on the dolly.

Complete plans with photos can be downloaded for FREE at Performancejeepchrysler.com

bflank 10-18-2009 11:36 AM

We built a hardtop dolly using a parts list and photos from a post on this forum. Do a search. It was built out of pipe & other parts bought from Home Depot and covered with pipe insulation. Cost less than $100.

Poppy360 03-24-2010 06:01 PM

I built this dolly yesterday. Total cost was $36 and an hour of my time. And that's with a handsaw! Gonna put the top on it next week before heading to Moab for EJS.

SylvanSahara 04-15-2011 09:38 PM

if anyone here has built one using the above plan, has anyone taken pics of the finished product?? If so it would be great to see them.

also what are people doing to keep the rear window closed when putting top onto cart(to keep it from flopping open and hitting the ground)

thanks in advance

Coronatj 04-16-2011 07:49 PM

I can take pics of the one that I built. But x2 on the back window. I used a tie down to keep it closed but it wasn't ideal.

Bearkat67 05-06-2011 08:25 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I completed mine tonight. Super easy! I also put a blanket down on the inside of the top and put the freedom tops in their bag on top of it.

I also added the rail to hang my front doors.

SylvanSahara 05-06-2011 08:35 PM

it looks like the bottom edge of your top and rear window are "on top" of the cart, the front 2x4(the non-blocked up side) is supposed to be "inside" the 2x4 frame rail. that way the top is braced/wedged into the cart and cannot slip off.

SylvanSahara 05-06-2011 08:37 PM

this pick is from someone else, from another thread on the same topic
http://cdn.wranglerforum.com/attachm...5&d=1302980158

SylvanSahara 05-06-2011 08:39 PM

also about a wk ago i built the same project and between the local Harbor Freight and Lowes(and less than $25) and a half 40min of time. it works great.

Bearkat67 05-06-2011 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SylvanSahara
it looks like the bottom edge of your top and rear window are "on top" of the cart, the front 2x4(the non-blocked up side) is supposed to be "inside" the 2x4 frame rail. that way the top is braced/wedged into the cart and cannot slip off.

Yeah. I fixed it after I took the pic. It's really a great deal. Cost me $25 and I get the satisfaction of making it myself.

SylvanSahara 05-06-2011 11:33 PM

yup mine was like $25 to the penny using a very good grade of 2x4 and a much heavier rated caster than necessary(125lb ea vs a 75lb they had), but i wanted the larger diameter wheels. So all told for the "ugraded" material might have cost me an extra $6 or $7 and i used more screws than the plan showed three in each corner and filled in all 4 holes in each caster. All in the name of making it straighter, more sturdy and durable. I also spend a few extra minutes to sand all the cut edges and round the corners. I think when the top comes off the cart next winter i will either seal with clear(maybe stain) or paint it. I also didn't use any padding(permanent) just put a couple of folded terry cloth towel on the raised blocks.
And yes lots of satisfaction of doing it my self, that and an extra $125+ left in my vs a store bought piece, is a bonus also.

Hawaii 5-0 05-07-2011 07:51 AM

I built the wood one from the plan above. Worked fine. Sold my hardtop and I still have this in my garage gathering dust. Anyone close to Northeast Ohio want one for free?

gbtb87 05-07-2011 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hawaii 5-0 (Post 1224816)
I built the wood one from the plan above. Worked fine. Sold my hardtop and I still have this in my garage gathering dust. Anyone close to Northeast Ohio want one for free?

5-0
p/m sent

sorensenbrad 01-10-2012 12:08 PM

wont let me download stuck in loop of confirm order.... I never get a download link.

sorensenbrad 01-10-2012 12:20 PM

I got it please ignore.

TrueNorth 01-10-2012 03:44 PM

I went the easy route and used it as a projector screen in the garage.
2 sawhorses and a plank of wood.
http://i39.tinypic.com/2u9kd45.jpg

Nano 01-10-2012 05:25 PM

I cheated on the dolly I built for mine.

I took 2 furniture dollys and attached then with some 2x4 to be just slim than the width of the hardtop. I put additional 2x4s to account for the angle of the back window so the top is completely plum. I put 1 metal "L" shaped brackets so the top won't 'slide' off.

I paid a little more for prebuilt/carpeted furniture dollys, but not much because I got them pretty cheap. The whole thing was ~$50.

The hard top has been sitting on that since I took it off 5 years ago.

cavsvet74 01-10-2012 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nano (Post 1908090)
I cheated on the dolly I built for mine.

I took 2 furniture dollys and attached then with some 2x4 to be just slim than the width of the hardtop. I put additional 2x4s to account for the angle of the back window so the top is completely plum. I put 1 metal "L" shaped brackets so the top won't 'slide' off.

I paid a little more for prebuilt/carpeted furniture dollys, but not much because I got them pretty cheap. The whole thing was ~$50.

The hard top has been sitting on that since I took it off 5 years ago.

I did the exact same thing... Then I bought a racor hoist.:whistling:

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrueNorth (Post 1907721)
I went the easy route and used it as a projector screen in the garage.
2 sawhorses and a plank of wood.
http://i39.tinypic.com/2u9kd45.jpg

That's classic!:thumb:

div4gold 03-11-2012 04:28 PM


Look on the left side column for jeep hardtop dolly download:

http://www.performancejeepchrysler.com/

Dmaj10 04-21-2013 08:03 PM

What did you use to hold the carpet in place?

Dmaj10 04-28-2013 07:49 PM

I just built one of these its great

Phoenix918 06-19-2013 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SylvanSahara (Post 1224237)
it looks like the bottom edge of your top and rear window are "on top" of the cart, the front 2x4(the non-blocked up side) is supposed to be "inside" the 2x4 frame rail. that way the top is braced/wedged into the cart and cannot slip off.

I agree with you, but the original doc shows the lower edge of the hardtop resting on the cross rail. I set mine inside the cross rail as you suggested, which is a much more secure fit, but I also removed one layer of 6" 2X4 pads to align the top a more vertical position.

I went to Home Depot, bought all the lumber, had them make all the cuts (which is an event in itself), bought a box of 2 1/2" (instead of 3" screws). The 3" screws would completely penetrate the double 2 X 4 (which is really only 3 1/2" x 1 1/2") and I didn't want the sharp points sticking through.

I also grabbed a box of 1 1/2" (for the window cross bar) and 1" (for the casters; 1/2" didn't make sense.) All the screws were of the deck construction type. Got the lumber, screws and the swivel casters for $50. Screwed the whole thing together in 20 minutes and with the Bestop cover, it works great.

mitch36 06-27-2013 06:27 PM

I just finished my cart , made it from the plans above. I have a total of $5.22 in it as I had all the stuff except for some carpet. It turned out very nice and I was quite proud of making it on the cheap. I was really upset when I realized that my LJ top is too long to fit on the cart in my 8 foot tall garage. DAMN, back to the drawing board. Now I'm going to try to fab up some kind of winch to hang it from the ceiling , wish me luck. Mitch.


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