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-   -   Alternator/Welder (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/alternator-welder-29626.html)

buckshot500 04-24-2009 10:10 PM

Alternator/Welder
 
HOLY CRAP!!!!

I stopped in at Black's alternator today. After a quick explanation, Steve told me I was wasting my time & should just go buy a welder. Then I mentioned I wanted it to be in my jeep, so I could weld anywhere I could drive the jeep to.

I said they do make a nice setup that uses an alternator, but that it was about $1000.00. So he showed me some large frame Ford alts, & then I asked him about the Leece-Neville deal.

He brings out two monstrosities & throws 'em on the counter.

The 160 amp unit would be $200.00, & the 190 amp one would be $300.00.

He could redo a LG frame Ford for like $150.00 to be like 130-140 amps.

Then he digs under the counter & says I just remembered this thing.
It's a Leece knock off & he's not allowed to sell it because they weren't able to regulate the voltage in it. It's 220 amps! (My use requires that it not be regulated)

Only thing is, he cant get a replacement winding if I fry it. Diodes not a problem, he can replace those any time.

Then he says "I'm gonna make your whole day!" I'll rewire it the way you'll need it, & you can have it for $150.00.

I took a few minutes to think it over & pulled the trigger on it.
It'll be ready Monday afternoon, if I am off from work I'll go get it. Otherwise I'll get it one day next week.

(Now I know what your thinking, how's Bucky gonna buy something instead of getting it from the junkyard.
Well even though it's brand new, I still see it as a redneck mod, 220 amp welder in a jeep! Hells yeah!)

He said I can spin it with no load, as long as I haven't energized the field wire.

I'll need to put a switch & a rheostat on that line. The deal I'm going with, will have it removed & packed in an onboard box, with the other welding equipment. When I need it, I just throw it up on the pivot & put the belt on & tighten it up.

Start the engine & get ready to weld. Right before I strike the arc, I throw the switch. When I stop welding for a length of time greater than changing a rod, I switch off the field. This should prevent it from frying itself.

I forgot to ask him if it had a provision for A.C., but I'll find out when I pick it up. (Ooh TIG Aluminum trailside!) !Click the image to open in full size.

220 amps should be more than enough to run 5/32" E6010, & 1/8" E7018

1/8" cutting rods too.:wavey:

mxracer513 04-26-2009 07:58 AM

Sounds sweet, make sure you show it in action when you're all finished up! Or else it didn't happen :flipoff: :D

buckshot500 04-26-2009 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mxracer513 (Post 361463)
Sounds sweet, make sure you show it in action when you're all finished up! Or else it didn't happen :flipoff: :D

No worries, I recently got a digital camera & I'll post pics from the moment I have it in hand, until I have finished using it to make my junkyard tube doors!:punk:

I'll do a writeup and copy (& paste) it to all the boards I'm on. Seems like a bunch of folks are interested in this thing.

I'm doing it because I want the mobility it offers. Plus the house I live in only has a 60 amp service, & I'd have to shut off everything just to hook up my buzz box.

buckshot500 04-27-2009 01:58 PM

WELDZILLA
Well, I picked up my humongous alternator/welder today.
220 amps D.C. output, unregulated. Still need to get a rheostat, to control the voltage to the field wire terminal. This will allow me to control the amount of current to the stinger.

I asked about an A.C. tap, & he said sure it's possible but I'd have to go back inside it again.

I told him I'd bring it back for that, if I can get it to work the way I want it to.

So without further delay, I bring you WELDZILLA
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/IMG_0409.jpg
The other little guy, is the stock unit from my heep. It has the serp pulley from the CS144 on it.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/IMG_0410.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/IMG_0411.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/IMG_0412.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/IMG_0413.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/IMG_0418.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/IMG_0419.jpg

Here we can see the future home of the TIG aluminum terminal! (A.C.)
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/IMG_0420.jpg

__________________

buckshot500 04-27-2009 02:00 PM

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/IMG_0421.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/IMG_0422.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/IMG_0423.jpg

It's not exactly a light piece of equipment!
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...a/IMG_0427.jpg

buckshot500 05-11-2009 05:40 AM

UPDATE; It lives!!!!

WELDZILLA came to life yesterday. Gotta go to work now, but will post pics ASAP.

Needs to be driven by a larger pulley, but I was running 1/8" E-6011 @ 2500 rpm's.

Also need a rheostat, since the A.C. one I got from Lowe's didn't work.

I'm thinking A headlight dimmer might be the ticket.

Also my hood won't close with it mounted up.

sgnellett 05-11-2009 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buckshot500 (Post 370601)
UPDATE; It lives!!!!

WELDZILLA came to life yesterday. Gotta go to work now, but will post pics ASAP.

Needs to be driven by a larger pulley, but I was running 1/8" E-6011 @ 2500 rpm's.

Also need a rheostat, since the A.C. one I got from Lowe's didn't work.

I'm thinking A headlight dimmer might be the ticket.

Also my hood won't close with it mounted up.

Oooopps!!! :zap:

buckshot500 05-11-2009 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgnellett (Post 370658)
Oooopps!!! :zap:

No, I expected it would stick up too high (It is huge, after all) & planned on it being used/mounted on a temporary basis. I can remove my hood with QR's, & leave it at home, if I need to move the jeep with it mounted.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0455.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0456.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0463.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0464.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0465.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0466.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0467.jpg

whitebuffalo 05-12-2009 08:32 AM

thats awesome. total cost?

buckshot500 05-12-2009 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitebuffalo (Post 371168)
thats awesome. total cost?

Lets see, I got a deal on the alt $150.00 including the rewire for no regulator.

(An old school large frame Ford (100+ amps) alternator with external regulator, can be found at the nearest junk yard. Just feed the exiter terminal with 12 Volts & the batt. terminal is (+) weld lead, alt case is (-) weld lead, & your in bidness!

Much cheaper than a used $300.00 Leece-Neville!) Don't switch the leads if welding on your own rig. Stinger must be positive! (Reverse polarity)

Warning, Straight polarity (negative stinger) will fry your vehicle' electrics & electronics.( only need to worry about this on the vehicle that runs the welder.

OK, back to the tally. $75.00 for the York compressor, The two pulley steering pump, & all the related brackets & belts + $45.00 to ship that (used)

$30.00 or so for new belts. $10..0 for the new stinger, & $8.00 for ground clamp. Another $20.00 or so for odds & ends, bolts etc.
$150
75
45
30
10
8
+ 20
$338.00 Now I still need to address the small pulley=$o.oo
also the dimmer= who knows might find one at the junkyard for cheap.

So $340 so far @ 220 amps. Should be a better deal than the pre-packaged deals they sell for $1000.00+ which might be 190 amps if that.:doh:

whitebuffalo 05-13-2009 09:56 AM

that is really cool. i have been shopping for a gas welder, just for work around the house (fences etc.) but to have it on the trail too would be cool. and for 350 bucks....you couldn't buy 1/3 of a gas welder :D

what was the york compressor for?

buckshot500 05-13-2009 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitebuffalo (Post 371673)
that is really cool. i have been shopping for a gas welder, just for work around the house (fences etc.) but to have it on the trail too would be cool. and for 350 bucks....you couldn't buy 1/3 of a gas welder :D

what was the york compressor for?

(An old school large frame Ford (100+ amps) alternator with external regulator, can be found at the nearest junk yard. Just feed the exiter terminal with 12 Volts & the batt. terminal is (+) weld lead, alt case is (-) weld lead, & your in bidness!

You could do this for less than $100.00!!!!!!11

The York A/C compressor is now my on-board air, or will be very soon.

Jeep related bulletin boards such as this one, & Google are your friend when it comes to redneck YJ mods!:punk:

Take the time to research each project, until your are 100% confident that you can do it. Then research a little bit more!

skeeter 05-14-2009 11:10 AM

Outstanding!!!

buckshot500 05-14-2009 10:13 PM

I thrashed on the heep tonight & yanked the steering pump. Drilled through the dual pulley, & bolted the crankshaft pullet to it. Now the front pulley is bigger than the one that drives the steering pump. This makes for a tricky steering belt removal. Every thing has to be done in a certain order for anything to work out.

At least my RPM problem is solved, & I can get to welding up those junkyard tube doors sooner!

buckshot500 05-15-2009 10:23 PM

Went out & got the belt I needed for the bigger pulley. Still need one size tighter. Not much adjustment to be had, but it's workable for now.

I was running some E-7018 1/8" wire tonight @ 1500 rpm's

Welded up one of my junkyard tube doors, before the rain came.

Sorry, no time for pics tonight. I'll get some when I have a chance.

I think I'm gonna forgo the dimmer, as it's working nicely with just an rpm change. Hand throttle is real nice to have!

I put a lot of time, effort, & $$$ into this contraption. Glad to see it paid off.
I'm pretty damned psyched!:punk:

The welder runs exceptionally well, the arc is smooth although it seems that you need to keep the arc tight, or it breaks. Scratch start is easier than my AC buzz box.
Beads look like they're supposed to, & penetration is damn good!

Coolest thing is the sound of the arc itself. The arc sounds like the alternator's whistle/whine. Kind of like if you hum while whistling. (This may be due to the alternator's high frequency):zap::zap:

dooder 05-16-2009 06:35 AM

That is cool, your kinda weird but that welder is definitely cool.

YjMopower 05-16-2009 10:38 AM

so did you figure out anything with the hood does it go all the way down now?

YjMopower 05-16-2009 10:40 AM

hey i just noticed is that a air intake on your pcv?

buckshot500 05-17-2009 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dooder (Post 372962)
That is cool, your kinda weird but that welder is definitely cool.

"Kinda Weird"???

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...eateningMe.jpg

Dude, you don't know the half of it!:rofl:

The welder really is cool, & I'm proud to have it in my possession.:punk:



Quote:

Originally Posted by YjMopower (Post 372987)
so did you figure out anything with the hood does it go all the way down now?

Well it almost does, it hits a little right where the paint is now chipped.:banghead:
I'm not planning on leaving it permanently mounted though, it's too heavy & might rip the intake manifold off upon any harsh landings.
I have an ammo can (Fat 50) that it just fits inside. I'll make an angle iron mount for it in the bed, for wheeling trips.

Quote:

Originally Posted by YjMopower (Post 372989)
hey i just noticed is that a air intake on your pcv?

Yes, you can get them in the speed isle at you local big box parts store.
I just put another one on my York OBA.

buckshot500 05-17-2009 08:10 AM

BTW dooder, what part of S.E. Pa. are you in?

I used to live in N.E. Philly until about two years ago. Lived there for 34 years! Glad to finally get the hell out!!!


YJMopower, do you actually have a Mopar V8 in your YJ? Pics???

dooder 05-17-2009 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buckshot500 (Post 373288)
BTW dooder, what part of S.E. Pa. are you in?

I used to live in N.E. Philly until about two years ago. Lived there for 34 years! Glad to finally get the hell out!!!

Im in suburbs west of philly. Good for you getting out, youre not missing anything. The welder is real cool and ive thought about it before but never persued it and probably wont for reasons like im just not that hardcore of an offroader but thats enough about me. I remember reading about those underhood welders in maybe Popular Science??? cant remember but they used a generator out of a p51 mustang and had an adjustable regulator. was years ago but that article spanned crazy ideas in my little head, happy to see someone doing it.

buckshot500 05-17-2009 08:03 PM

You can do one cheap, see post #12 in this thread. Easy as pie!

Don't have to be hard core to have a welder on board.

buckshot500 05-17-2009 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buckshot500 (Post 372501)
I thrashed on the heep tonight & yanked the steering pump. Drilled through the dual pulley, & bolted the crankshaft pulley to it. Now the front pulley is bigger than the one that drives the steering pump. This makes for a tricky steering belt removal. Every thing has to be done in a certain order for anything to work out.

At least my RPM problem is solved, & I can get to welding up those junkyard tube doors sooner!

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0499.jpg
Here are some pics of the junkyard tube doors;
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0501.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0502.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0503.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0504.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0505.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0506.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0507.jpg

YjMopower 05-17-2009 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buckshot500 (Post 373288)
BTW dooder, what part of S.E. Pa. are you in?

I used to live in N.E. Philly until about two years ago. Lived there for 34 years! Glad to finally get the hell out!!!


YJMopower, do you actually have a Mopar V8 in your YJ? Pics???

no i dont ,but its my next upgrade most likey doing it in less than 3 months.Not really sure on which motor to choose i wanted to stay in the chrysler corp. I was doing a lot of researching on novak and it seems like iam going to go for the 360, with a np435 tranny not sure on my transfer case though.neither sure on what will be the doner vechile , are the v8 on the cherrokees the same as the ones on the darangos? i wanted to be able to build the engine up till some 350 hp.any suggestions?

GrnTJ 05-18-2009 12:44 AM

Hey, just a heads up but I got a dodge np435 that I dont need. Was gonna use it for my TJ but I changed my plans. Will bolt right to the back of a 360 (actually, thats what it came off from). Let me know if your interested. pm me if you wanna talk motors too. I dont think there is a swap under the sun that I havent read into at least a little bit and I have all kinds of information bookmarked on just about everything.

buckshot500 05-18-2009 05:16 AM

Well if your going with an auto tranny, the AMC unit is actually a re-belled Mopar 727.
All the guts are Mopar. The tail housing mount is supposedly Mopar too,

So you could go with a total Mopar drivetrain, or some mix or components.

The 360 Mopar small block is a good choice. The long connecting (piston) rods will have some torque to bring to the table. This is good for wheeling, & drag racing, not so much for high RPM's though. The engine's rotating mass is tougher to balance than say a 318.

I have many years of Mopar muscle car experience, but not much of it is from engine work. I can make a car hook up though! Leaf springs can be made to work, if you don't mind using an adjustable pinion snubber.

YjMopower 05-18-2009 11:16 PM

ive been researching about the swap on The Mopar Small Block V8 Engine - Novak Conversions and they say the 727 would have some clearance issues i dont mind having some mix components just really want to stay within the chrsler corp . do you guys think i could see 20 or more on gas mieagle.another question what transfer case can i use for the np435?

buckshot500 05-19-2009 04:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YjMopower (Post 374235)
and they say the 727 would have some clearance issues i dont mind having some mix components just really want to stay within the chrsler corp .

Maybe the CJ had more trans room than the YJ.

You should try to see if you can use a Dodge power wagon's entire drivetrain.

It's all really heavy duty stuff. D-60 front & D-70 rear in 1967.
I think the early 70's had the axle U-joints unlike the older ball & trunnions of the 1960's. Killer tough divorced transfer cases too.:punk:

When I moved South two years ago, I had to give away a 1967 P/W setup.

Axles & T-case mentioned above, & a big Granny tranny.

Wish I'd have at least kept the axles. Unless a B&T front D-60 cant be made to have axle U-joints.

YjMopower 05-20-2009 09:47 PM

great thanks for the info although i looked through ebay motors and there priced around 2000 for the whole truck .Is there a special place i can go to to find them any cheaper or is that good enough?question what leaf springs will i use with the dana 60 on my yj?

YjMopower 05-20-2009 11:28 PM

question about your modd.Can you adjust the power or voltage amount ?is that the reason for the dimmer?from what thickness does your welder range?


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