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-   -   Lift and tire question (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/lift-and-tire-question-313345.html)

tapsnap 09-26-2013 04:11 PM

Lift and tire question
 
Ok I am in the works of saving some money to get my Jeep lifted and getting bigger tires. I am still very new to everything Jeep wise and know little to nothing about anything vehicle wise.


So my question:


I do not plan on doing any off roading in my Jeep any time soon since its new and I am still getting use to driving something other than a regular car. But in the future I plan on doing a little here and there as things come up. Also when It snows getting to and from work without getting stuck is always nice to. My car got stuck a few times.


So at the moment I am going more for look and later for fun. The guy at the Jeep place said I should do a 3" lift with 35" tires. That sounds great coming from him and me not having a clue on what type of wear and tear it will put on the Jeep. Also will it affect gas mileage? Cause more road noise (tires)? He is telling me I am looking at around 4,500 to 5,000.

Any information would be great. Also pictures of any kind for a visual reference are also appreciated.

Take it easy on me I am a newbie. Thanks

Mxylplyx 09-26-2013 04:16 PM

I think that lift and tire combo is way too aggressive based on the needs you presented. A 1.5-2" budget boost or leveling kit and 33" tires sounds more appropriate.

kjeeper10 09-26-2013 04:28 PM

Kinda agree ^

Maybe this will help understand what's involved.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/lif...jk-298665.html

JMOD 09-26-2013 04:35 PM

^x3 I hate when shops/dealerships do this... I asked advice in a similar situation and the dealer tried to sell me a stage 3 mopar lift when all I wanted was some "basic" fun on some weekends and 33's

tapsnap 09-26-2013 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 4883641)
Kinda agree ^

Maybe this will help understand what's involved.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/lif...jk-298665.html


Thanks I read it before posting this thread. Didnt understand it very much. Well didnt understand it at all to tell you the truth.

marslim 09-26-2013 04:44 PM

X4!! The advice the shop have you is overkill and likely much more expensive than you want. 33" tires and a leveling kit sounds more your style... 35's and a 3" is when you start killing your fuel mileage, losing significant power, changing control arm steering and driveshaft angles, needing a spare tire carrier, adding stress to your axles etc... 33's and a levelling kit keep you away from pretty much all of that while still greatly changing the looks and performance

JMOD 09-26-2013 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tapsnap (Post 4884089)
Thanks I read it before posting this thread. Didnt understand it very much. Well didnt understand it at all to tell you the truth.

Ask questions on what parts you don't understand! ALOT of great help on this fourm and ppl always willing to share their advice.

tapsnap 09-26-2013 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marslim (Post 4884145)
X4!! The advice the shop have you is overkill and likely much more expensive than you want. 33" tires and a leveling kit sounds more your style... 35's and a 3" is when you start killing your fuel mileage, losing significant power, changing control arm steering and driveshaft angles, needing a spare tire carrier, adding stress to your axles etc... 33's and a levelling kit keep you away from pretty much all of that while still greatly changing the looks and performance

Whats a leveling kit? Havent heard that at all.

marslim 09-26-2013 05:29 PM

A leveling kit is a small lift kit generally around 2" front 1-1.5" rear it can be either spacers or new springs, the replacement springs allow more flex and are a stiffer rate which is designed to prevent sag due to heavy bumpers, winches and spare tires

G54 09-26-2013 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tapsnap (Post 4884729)

Whats a leveling kit? Havent heard that at all.

Basically they are poly spacers put between your springs and top coil perch. Usually adds 1.5 to 2". The higher puck going in front to eliminate the factory rake, or front end slope, without having to change shocks or do anything except an alignment. Sometimes it is just a front spacer of 3/4" or an inch. Should give you clearance for a 33"x10.50 tire or wider tire like 12.50 if you go with an aftermarket wheel with less backspacing or wheel spacers. Confused yet? :D

panthermark 09-26-2013 05:35 PM

x100

A 3 inch lift and 35's is super overkill for your needs.

tapsnap 09-26-2013 05:45 PM

Thanks for everyone's advice looks like ill be saving some money.

So a 2" spring lift with 33" tires. Sound good? Anything else I should add since ill have some extra money lol

kjeeper10 09-26-2013 05:52 PM

All great advice

A 33" tire will fit without any lift. You don't need a lift unless trying go run a bigger tire.

JMOD 09-26-2013 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tapsnap (Post 4885401)
Thanks for everyone's advice looks like ill be saving some money.

So a 2" spring lift with 33" tires. Sound good? Anything else I should add since ill have some extra money lol

Quick disconnects incase you do wana play around (if you have a sport) and an synergy or XYZ brand bolt kit to replace the factory bolts?

tapsnap 09-26-2013 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMOD (Post 4885553)
Quick disconnects incase you do wana play around (if you have a sport) and an synergy or XYZ brand bolt kit to replace the factory bolts?


Please explain more like I said I am very dumb talking about this stuff. Need to learn this stuff so when I talk to some one face to face I dont seem like an idiot.

marslim 09-26-2013 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 4885537)
All great advice A 33" tire will fit without any lift. You don't need a lift unless trying go run a bigger tire.

Make sure you specify that... A true 33x12.5" especially in a 15" wheel will most definitly rub off road, mine rub a but even with the teraflex performance leveling kit

JMOD 09-26-2013 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tapsnap (Post 4885617)
Please explain more like I said I am very dumb talking about this stuff. Need to learn this stuff so when I talk to some one face to face I dont seem like an idiot.

See this for the bolt kits: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/dia...les-78034.html

I can't top that nor would I try lol.. IS it needed for a stock or "low" modified jeep? IDK, but for the cost I would do it anyway.. IMO? Maybe others can chime in?

kjeeper10 09-26-2013 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marslim (Post 4885753)
Make sure you specify that... A true 33x12.5" especially in a 15" wheel will most definitly rub off road, mine rub a but even with the teraflex performance leveling kit

Understood but what's wheel size have to do with it ?

OP "I do not plan on doing any off roading"

But yes I agree ... A small lift or even trimmed flares will prevent rubbing.

gsn 09-26-2013 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 4886705)
Understood but what's wheel size have to do with it ?

OP "I do not plan on doing any off roading"

But yes I agree ... A small lift or even trimmed flares will prevent rubbing.

I'd say wheel width would affect more (not that much really) the ending size of the tire per psi. An 8" wheel will cause the tire to yield more diameter than a 9.5" wheel for example. But as for wheel diameter, I dont see how a 15" wheel will yield more than 16" or 17", as tires are made for a specific wheel diameter.

If I see it right, a 33x12.5 may rub because of the stock wheel backspacing. If full flex will be achieved then bumpstops may be necessary, or flat fenders, after addressing the backspacing.

kjeeper10 09-26-2013 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsn (Post 4886865)
I'd say wheel width would affect more (not that much really) the ending size of the tire per psi. An 8" wheel will cause the tire to yield more diameter than a 9.5" wheel for example. But as for wheel diameter, I dont see how a 15" wheel will yield more than 16" or 17", as tires are made for a specific wheel diameter.

Backspacing or offset maybe

Edit: nice edit rofl

gsn 09-26-2013 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 4886913)
Backspacing or offset maybe

I edited ;D

ramu3527 09-26-2013 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMOD (Post 4885553)
Quick disconnects incase you do wana play around (if you have a sport) and an synergy or XYZ brand bolt kit to replace the factory bolts?

Bolt kit? What is the bolt kit for? Replacement hardware for the lift kit?

I see a Teraflex kit that has a performance leveling kit with just springs and longer front swaybar links. Would it be better to change out the shocks AND add the quick discos?

marslim 09-26-2013 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsn (Post 4886865)
I'd say wheel width would affect more (not that much really) the ending size of the tire per psi. An 8" wheel will cause the tire to yield more diameter than a 9.5" wheel for example. But as for wheel diameter, I dont see how a 15" wheel will yield more than 16" or 17", as tires are made for a specific wheel diameter.

If I see it right, a 33x12.5 may rub because of the stock wheel backspacing. If full flex will be achieved then bumpstops may be necessary, or flat fenders, after addressing the backspacing.

I just said that because generally 15" wheels will have a lower backspacing than 17 or 18" due to proper brake clearance, my level 8 trackers with 33x12.5 duratracs still rub at full flex enough to pop the rivets out of the fenders even with my leveling kit... At stock height I wouldn't go any further than a gravel road or there would be severe rubbing

gsn 09-26-2013 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marslim (Post 4887025)
I just said that because generally 15" wheels will have a lower backsliding than 17 or 18" due to proper brake clearance, my level 8 trackers with 33x12.5 duratracs still rub at full flex enough to pop the rivets out of the fenders even with my leveling kit... At stock height I wouldn't go any further than a gravel road or there would be severe rubbing

You would need to bumpstop. It would be a similar issue when trying to run 37s at 2.5 net of lift. Either bumpstop, or flat flares, or both. Otherwise you will rub the flares at full flex disconnected.

kjeeper10 09-26-2013 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsn (Post 4887049)
You would need to bumpstop. It would be a similar issue when trying to run 37s at 2.5 net of lift. Either bumpstop, or flat flares, or both. Otherwise you will rub the flares at full flex disconnected.

X2

The bolt kit replaces all the lower control arms and track bar bolts with grade 8 9/16 shouldered bolts. The issue with factory is the smaller diameter and full threaded bolts eventually wear into the mount holes risking death wobble.
Do not buy into the "grade 9" kit. Grade 8 is the same as metric 10.9 in strength. 9 is more expensive and overkill IMO

ramu3527 09-26-2013 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 4887769)
X2

The bolt kit replaces all the lower control arms and track bar bolts with grade 8 9/16 shouldered bolts. The issue with factory is the smaller diameter and full threaded bolts eventually wear into the mount holes risking death wobble.
Do not buy into the "grade 9" kit. Grade 8 is the same as metric 10.9 in strength. 9 is more expensive and overkill IMO

Interesting, and got it. Thanks...

tapsnap 09-27-2013 10:17 AM

Thanks for all the help.


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