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-   -   Jeeps and Ice (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/jeeps-and-ice-323985.html)

Brit Nick 10-03-2013 02:22 AM

Jeeps and Ice
 
I have a 2005 "x" 4.0 6 speed

When I start the Jeep, I show no oil pressure. I turn off the ignition and restart and it shows oil pressure. Would this be the sending unit? and if it is, where is it ?

Anyway, on my way to work the other morning, I hit a patch of ice, and ended up in a ditch. Luckily right side up.

My question is, If I put a couple 50# sandbags in the trunk, would that help?
Also, Im looking for a 31" tire that does well in ice. I was told Duratracs, but read reviews that they werent great on ice.
Any input would be appreciated

Thanks

Atthehop 10-03-2013 05:35 AM

No tire works on ice. You either need studs or chains.

CTfirefighter 10-03-2013 09:28 AM

stay away from chains on ice...think ice skate

and also....cars have trunks

jquinn83 10-03-2013 09:48 AM

The more siping (small thin cuts) a tire has the better it will do on ice but that only goes so far. The best way to handle on ice is to not be on it if possible.

bdrake 10-03-2013 09:57 AM

Neutral is your best freind when stopping, ever notice on a old rear wheel drive car you sit at the stop light and your back tires are spinning while stopped on ice (automatic of course) , when i drive on black ice and slowing down i always use neutral first and start braking with plenty of room for manuvers, Jquinn83 is correct on the tires .... little extra weight in back never hurt for take offs biggest thing is slow down and get there even if your late

BigCrave 10-03-2013 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdrake (Post 5054737)
Neutral is your best freind when stopping, ever notice on a old rear wheel drive car you sit at the stop light and your back tires are spinning while stopped on ice (automatic of course) , when i drive on black ice and slowing down i always use neutral first and start braking with plenty of room for manuvers, Jquinn83 is correct on the tires .... little extra weight in back never hurt for take offs biggest thing is slow down and get there even if your late

I was always told to let the engine do the braking for you. I always down shifted whether it was a manual or automatic. In neutral it was too easy for the brakes to lock up and skid.

DaisyCutter 10-03-2013 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigCrave (Post 5057233)
I was always told to let the engine do the braking for you. I always down shifted whether it was a manual or automatic. In neutral it was too easy for the brakes to lock up and skid.

I absolutely concur with the above, especially with a manual. There is a lot more elasticity from your crankshaft to the ice-patch, versus your brake caliper to the ice-patch, and a momentary slip while in gear won't cause the tire to stop rotating.

Now, for modern vehicles with all the whiz-bang control features, I'm sure they let you go faster assuming the features work. My advice is dated.

clarkkent 10-03-2013 12:59 PM

My jeep in the cold sometimes does the same thing with oil pressure. It hasn't done it all summer so I'm assuming it's related to the cold. Sometimes on start up it has no oil pressure what so ever. Turn it off, wait, and restart and it comes back..

Chilly03 10-03-2013 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brit Nick (Post 5049073)
Anyway, on my way to work the other morning, I hit a patch of ice, and ended up in a ditch. Luckily right side up.

:jawdrop: Ice already!!! It's 85 here right now. Glad you had no damage.

Atthehop 10-03-2013 01:33 PM

I saw on the news today there is a big snow storm in the upper mid west today.

cctriesch 10-03-2013 01:43 PM

I wouldn't want 50lb sand bags becoming projectiles in my cab after sliding on ice right into something hard.

GKjeep 10-03-2013 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaisyCutter (Post 5057665)
I absolutely concur with the above, especially with a manual. There is a lot more elasticity from your crankshaft to the ice-patch, versus your brake caliper to the ice-patch, and a momentary slip while in gear won't cause the tire to stop rotating. Now, for modern vehicles with all the whiz-bang control features, I'm sure they let you go faster assuming the features work. My advice is dated.

X3

I had a small accident driving in snow/ice when I was younger. Luckily came to a stop in a ditch and had a very long lecture from my dad. He explained how braking is the worst thing you can do, especially if you had already started sliding. Downshifting is the way to go. I do the same with our automatic land cruiser and haven't had any problems yet. *knock on wood* :)

But like the other guys suggested, there really isn't much you can do. If you're really willing there are the spikes they put on tires and I know those help. But not sure exactly how it works and how much they cost. My advise- go nice and slow :)

Kilroy 10-03-2013 02:12 PM

Sandbags may help In snow, but not so much in ice. With ice, keep it in 2wd and keep a light foot on the pedal. The idea is to keep the wheels coasting, and let momentum carry you through the really slippery areas. Coasting wheels have more traction than powered, turning or braking wheels. When you apply power in 2wd, you are reducing traction on one, maybe 2 wheels. 4wd reduces traction on 2, 3 or 4 wheels. Steering reduces traction on the steered wheels.And braking reduces traction on 4 wheels, so brakes must be applied carefully Al of these influences must be applied carefully, so they just modify the momentum without loosing control. Where possible, I drive icy roads in 4wd by putting two wheels off the road, where there is snow or mud. That works with a eep!

Brit Nick 10-04-2013 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chilly03 (Post 5059705)
:jawdrop: Ice already!!! It's 85 here right now. Glad you had no damage.

wish I was there. We had about 12 inches of snow last night, and are expecting 10 more today. :(

Brit Nick 10-04-2013 04:32 PM

Thanks everyone for the input :)

Junky_One 10-04-2013 04:41 PM

If your looking for tires you can get them studded ( only when new of course) and siphed for like 30-40 dollars a tire, when the ice is gone go ahead and pull your studs. I'm sure Wyoming is just as lax on studs as they are up here, caught about 6 inches from that storm in the hills around here, pretty much all gone today.

computeruser 10-04-2013 06:35 PM

Yokohama Geolandar I/T work really well on packed snow and in icy conditions. You'd be hard pressed to do better.

JeepandMud 10-05-2013 12:35 AM

I agree with others. I will be siping mine for winter, even though they are siped on the inside of the tire. Even siping your tires won't help from stopping abruptly on ice, especially black ice. Before I put my spare in the back area, I always carried up to 100lbs of kitty litter. It also works well for starting on snow pack if you can't get traction. And then I'd donate the leftovers, which was still close to 100lbs, to the Dumb Friends League or the ASPCA.

R u s s 10-05-2013 09:13 AM

When I lived in montana I ran 2 set of tires cheap rims studs for winter. And nice wheels with at's for summer. There is nothing that will beat a studded tire on ice except chains with ice cleats. (And thats cause you cant go over 30 with em. The down fall to the stud is a lot more road noise(like bogger loud). Also if you over drive the tire. As in I have studs and I am invicable to ice. So your doing 70 on black ice. Then plow into a car doing 20 cause thats as fast as they should go. That being said drive for your conditions but with studs you will have some kind of traction as opposed to none when on ice.
As for weight use sand if you chose it helps but not a lot. It does work for traction better than kitty litter cause kitty litter is clay and as soon as it gets wet it turns into slime.


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