for my next trick: a super 35 kit + regear
Don't know how to start, so I'll just jump right in...
Big step for me - most ambitious thing I've done to date is my D30 Aussie locker (works great BTW - some clicks, no big deal).
Project is scheduled for January/February 2010, but I'm starting the learning, planning, collect part & tools phase now. Plus, if I hurry, I can get some stuff on Santa's list.;)
Regear is from my current 3.07 to 4.56 (for 33" tires) - front and rear, of course. Super 35 kit for the rear, of course.
It would be wiser to pay the mechanic, but how is that fun? :)
leaving tools list for later, I think the major parts I need are:
1) front R&P gears with master rebuild kit
2) front diff case for the numerically higher gears (case break at 3.73, I think)
3) I DON'T need a new front locker 'cause I can re-use the Aussie in the new case
4) Superior super 35 kit with OX locker (correct me if OX is a bad choice, but that's my preference for now)
5) Rear R&P gears with master rebuild kit
6) misc stuff like thread sealant, diff fluid, the red plymer gasket stuff, gear paint
7) tools - but let's leave that for later.
Some questions - to get things started:
I hope that's enough to generate good advice. All helpful comments are appreciated.
...and don't beat me up too bad for not knowing exactly what I'm doing - I hope to get it mostly figured out before I start taking the bolts out.
04 TJ X D30/35 3.07 31X10.5
2"BB, SB Disco, Aussie in front
Some radios & anetnnas & stuff.
Welcome. Advise for the gears,if you have never installed a set before, don't start now. Get someone who knows how to do it, or else you might be paying for new gears and lockers twice.
x2 on what 4jeepn said
Another think you could do is save the money you would be polishing the 35 turd with and look for a used 44 that has been set up already. I see them all day for $800-1000 with lockers gears and chromo shafts.
I will agree with getting a good mechanic who has done gears before to set up the rears but I will also say that with patience andthe rite tools anyone can do it, that good mechanic started somewhere rite? Gears take alot of time and it is alot of trial and error but if your up for it and are willing to buy the tools and take the time I say go for it. You don't need setup bearings are races but they do speed up the process. To really make the setup bearings you need to have them turned down by a machine shop the goal is to make them a slip fit so you don't have to keep pulling the new
ones off every time you adjust the shim pack.
Nice setup that looks like it'll turn your rig into a good performing reliable rig.
If it were me, I would only change out the Ox Locker. First, they are a royal PITA to install into a TJ due to the TJ's extrasshort wheelbase. The cable is very (!) stiff and routing it plus getting the shifters mounted and working right is not easy in a TJ. While the ARB Air Locker would be my first choice, for less $$$ I'd go for the Eaton E-Locker. It is a selectable locker just like the Ox and ARB but it is electric which makes its installation MUCH easier and it works just as well. The E-Locker has gotten nothing but rave reviews from those running it.
I know a heck of a lot more people who were 100% happy with their ARB and Eaton E-Locker right away than were people with Ox Lockers. I knew the developer of the Ox Locker and like its concept but I just don't like it in a TJ. :)
Good advice on getting a mechanic. But, for me, learning how and then doing is very rewarding. It's an extra vehicle; I can take my time; the kids don't go hungry if I trash the new parts - I'll just have to hide it from the wife. ;)
If anyone can point me to good write-ups for regearing a dana 35 or similar or a good book...
I have the service manual, but it calls for set-up tools I won't buy. The gear paint / test pattern / trial-and error method is where I'm headed.
...interesting thought on the E-locker.
OK, specific question.
I've a R&P install writeup from pirate 4x4 for a dana 60 - similar, but not a D30/35. D60 uses outside shims to set pinion bearing preload; D30/35 uses a crush sleeve.
Per the writeup, the D60 pinion nut threads deform when torqued so you use one for the setup, then use a new one for the final install.
Question 1: is the D30/35 pinion nut similar; or, since the crush sleeve deforms, do the D30/35 pinion nut threads stay intact.
Question 2: for D30/35 set up, do I use the old crush sleeve and torque the pinion nut until I get about the right preload, or something different?
Believe what the others said.
Better ask a friend to help you that knows how to regear.
I learned it from a friend in 2007 and did it only 4 times.
A guy from our local Jeep club wanted to do it alone. After 1.5 days he gave up (only the front).
Iīm not a good mechanic, but with my help he did it this afternoon in 3-4 hours.
Isnīt it cheaper to buy a used axle that already has the right geras and/or a locker? A D44 or a Ford 8.8?
install kit should come with both a crush sleeve and pinion shims. use the shims, imo crush sleeves suck because its a one time shot, you go to far with it and your done. no, you CAN NOT reuse a crush sleeve, once its crushed its, well, crushed.
Just to confirm: the install kit comes with both inner and outer pinion shims and I can use outer shims instead of a crush sleeve.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:21 PM.|
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2015 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.