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-   -   cv drive shaft help (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/cv-drive-shaft-help-40782.html)

mudslinger150 12-04-2009 09:14 AM

cv drive shaft help
 
Now i deffinatley have vibration still with my t-case drop installed on my 3.25" RC lift. Now i would like to get rid of that vibration so im looking into cv drive shafts, so i can eliminate the t-case drop and vibrations. Now here are my questions.

Do i need front and rear cv drive shafts (possible?), or just rear?

Do i "need" to get a SYE kit aswell? If so why?

terrible2 12-04-2009 12:38 PM

SYE kit and CV Driveshaft. I know a guy in missouri who will sell you a Tom Woods Driveshagt for cheap.

Then you can get a RE Hack and Tap SYE which is cheap.

mudslinger150 12-04-2009 01:03 PM

hook it up

Schmo 12-04-2009 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudslinger150 (Post 499220)
Now i deffinatley have vibration still with my t-case drop installed on my 3.25" RC lift. Now i would like to get rid of that vibration so im looking into cv drive shafts, so i can eliminate the t-case drop and vibrations. Now here are my questions.

Do i need front and rear cv drive shafts (possible?), or just rear?

Do i "need" to get a SYE kit aswell? If so why?


Chances are you will not need a front DS . . . to be sure, just disconnect it and drive around and if you still have the issue, you'll know the front DS is not the culprit. Unless you have a Rubicon, you will need the SYE kit, along with the rear CV DS . . . you can get a nice SYE+DS combo for $500. Don't forget though that you will also need adjustable rear UCAs to change the pinyon angle to work with the CV DS, and you may need a CV style TrackBar bracket to correct its angle as well. Just an FYI . . . a CV DS will need to be lubed regularly . . . not just the U-Joints, but the center ball as well which will require removing one end of the DS to get to the zirk . . . even then, they wear out. If taken care of, you may get a few years, but if not, you might only get a year or two out of one (I failed to grease the centerball and mine only lasted 1.5 years) and by the time I pay for shipping, it'll be over 150 bucks to have it rebuilt/rebalanced. So if you buy used, make sure you know what your getting and either way, be sure to keep it lubed . . . I know I will from now on!

terrible2 12-04-2009 01:27 PM

Do all CV DS need to be lubed? first time ive heard this one (not saying youre lying)

You can get it down to around $300 if you get a cheaper DS and hack and tap SYE.

Schmo 12-04-2009 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by terrible2 (Post 499348)
Do all CV DS need to be lubed? first time ive heard this one (not saying youre lying)

You can get it down to around $300 if you get a cheaper DS and hack and tap SYE.



I would assume that they do. But I can tell you first hand that if you have a Tom Wood's DS, then yes absolutely, or you'll be rebuilding it pretty quickly. 300 seems really cheap for both . . . I have a Rubi so I didn't have to deal with the SYE, but most the CV DS that I've seen start around the 300 mark just for the DS.

Jerry Bransford 12-04-2009 02:03 PM

First, the factory front driveshaft is already a CV driveshaft, it's fine. And where lubing is concerned, the CV joint itself needs to be lubed via a zerk fitting that is hidden under the u-joints. The u-joints on a CV driveshaft are a different matter... some builders install sealed u-joints that never need lubing and others use non-sealed u-joints that have zerk fittings which must be greased regularly. The last Tom Wood driveshaft I had made, I specified sealed Spicer u-joints instead of their usual greasable u-joints. For my type of wheeling, the sealed Spicer 5-785x u-joint is more durable and simply less trouble. I have too many zerks to grease so getting rid of three u-joint zerks, especially because those on the CV are hard to get to, was a blessing. :)

ChrisTX 12-04-2009 02:57 PM

If I remember right, I don't think the stock centering ball part comes with a zerk. The exact same Spicer part that you replace it with does come with a zerk though (don't ask my why that is).

I had a Spicer U-joint with the grease fitting, and the zerk got knocked off somehow, and all the grease slung out and blew out the U-joint.

A motor mount lift might get rid of some of those vibrations. I would still do the SYE/CV, but that will help for now.

Schmo 12-04-2009 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford (Post 499364)
First, the factory front driveshaft is already a CV driveshaft, it's fine. And where lubing is concerned, the CV joint itself needs to be lubed via a zerk fitting that is hidden under the u-joints. The u-joints on a CV driveshaft are a different matter... some builders install sealed u-joints that never need lubing and others use non-sealed u-joints that have zerk fittings which must be greased regularly. The last Tom Wood driveshaft I had made, I specified sealed Spicer u-joints instead of their usual greasable u-joints. For my type of wheeling, the sealed Spicer 5-785x u-joint is more durable and simply less trouble. I have too many zerks to grease so getting rid of three u-joint zerks, especially because those on the CV are hard to get to, was a blessing. :)

Hey Jerry,

Does the stock front drive shaft need any maintainence or is everything sealed on it?

Jerry Bransford 12-04-2009 03:46 PM

The u-joints are sealed (maintenance-free) but I thought the centering joint under the u-joints was greasable on all front TJ driveshafts. Mine is, but perhaps they went to a non-greasable centering joint after mine was manufactured from what ChrisTX says. I switched front driveshafts when I converted to the auto tranny two ago so I can't look to be sure.

jdhallissey 12-04-2009 03:48 PM

my front shaft from the factory was not greaseable the new tom woods front shaft is. Also my rear tom woods shaft is. I needed them that way since all the water I get into. But I agree with jerrry for the west if you don't get into a lot of mud or water leave them seled.


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