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-   -   Spare tire carrier - Bestop (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/spare-tire-carrier-bestop-41096.html)

rrich 12-10-2009 01:57 PM

Spare tire carrier - Bestop
 
On a previous thread I mentioned I use a Bestop spare carrier and am very happy with it.
I can't find that thread, but several people have emailed me asking for pictures.

It's rated for 35's, but with a little help I'm sure it could handle bigger.
No need for bumper replacement, it does not put strain on the tailgate or any part of the body.
And it's an easy one hand operation - you open the tailgate latch and it swings out with the tailgate.
Easy installation and maintenance free too.
No fumbling with trailer spindles or latches that keep getting bent.

Ha Ha - No, I don't sell them!

rrich 12-10-2009 02:05 PM

Pics were too big first try -

Ray - San Jose 12-10-2009 02:05 PM

Post the pics up here, or at least a link. You have my curiosity up.

Edit: Opps, ya beat me to it. Thanks :D Looks good

Bignuke 12-10-2009 02:09 PM

How much do they run from? price wise

Bignuke 12-10-2009 02:11 PM

Do you have to screw into the tub|???

rrich 12-10-2009 02:14 PM

I put a tab on the upper right corner to mount my CB antenna.
Someday I plan on moving the tire toward the right a little and adding the capability to carry a GI gas can.

It mounts to the body mount at the lower corner with a stout bracket. The upper hinge mounts with a bracket on the inside that secures to the roll cage mount, then extends to the rear body corner. You drill a couple of holes through the body matching the inside bracket holes then it all bolts together. The weight is supported by the roll cage and the lower body mount.
The part that attaches to the tailgate itself carries no weight on it.
Nothing attaches to the bumper.
To open, simply use the stock tailgate latch and swing it out.

I saw one in operation and decided to go that route.

It would not be difficult to make one yourself - much easier than the separate swing-aways.

rrich 12-10-2009 02:22 PM

No, I don't remember the cost - somewhere around $300 I think. Much cheaper than the swing-outs.
So far so good - no problems at all in about 50,000 miles, mostly hard trails. No signs of cracking anywhere. Tailgate has not needed to be adjusted at all - no real weight on it.

The upper bracket has 2 or 3 holes to pass the bolts through, if I remember right where it attaches to the tailgate it uses the existing holes from the stock carrier. I may be wrong about that. I used the stock rubber bumpers to press on the tire to stop any vibration.
And - it's adjustable to your rim width. A wide rim will fit just as easy as a narrow stock rim.

Check the internet suppliers for the best deal.

Christmouse is here! May solve your wife's problem what to get you.

Bignuke 12-10-2009 02:26 PM

sweet. A project of mine would be to make one of these... Do you have the dimensions or anything?

Geoff@Bestop 12-10-2009 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bignuke (Post 502803)
sweet. A project of mine would be to make one of these... Do you have the dimensions or anything?

Go buy one, ya cheap busturd. :flipoff:

OK, sorry about that. Couldn't resist. You could also go look at the installation guide. It'll give you a good idea of bolts, dimensions and whatnot.

I doubt you could make one for less than it would cost.

-----------------------------

Rich: Excellent review. I could say stuff like that all day long, but it's worth a hell of a lot more coming from you.

---------------------------------
And now, queue Jerry Bransfield explaining why his through-the-tub carrier is way better!

Bignuke 12-10-2009 03:12 PM

You never know ;) thanks for the guide!

rrich 12-10-2009 04:16 PM

Ha Ha - I didn't mean to be a commercial, but it fits my needs.

Making one? IF you had the bending, cutting, and welding equipment it wouldn't be difficult to fab one up in a couple of hours. But for most folks buying one is the best way. I have everything to do it, but still just bought one.

An improvement I'd like to see on it would be a catch to hold the door open - on a sidehill - right side high, it can get awkward accessing the back while holding it open with your butt. But all the others have that trouble too. Been thinking a support shock rod - like on the glass tailgate with a catch might do it. Just haven't tried it yet. I figured when I modified it for a gas can I'd do it then.

288sunny 12-10-2009 08:37 PM

besttop
 
I just picked one up from quadratec for $274 shipped.. cant wait to get it on the jeep, i think my biggest issue will be the holes needed to be drilled, im not the best at measuring, gonna have a buddy help me with that part:)

apexkw 12-10-2009 09:39 PM

i have been planning to buy this and the highrock rear for my rubicon forever...but the wife keeps spending my money...

compshooter 12-10-2009 11:53 PM

rrich, good to hear from you. We need to go out and hit the trails over the xmas break. Check with the Boss and see if she'll give you your kitchen pass. You can even choose the run.

Bignuke 12-11-2009 10:12 AM

I really like it. How did you run your CB there? I have mine on top of the tail light, but it doesn't work... Antenna light is on, say I might not have good ground or something.

rrich 12-11-2009 01:47 PM

To mount the antenna - a Firestick, I welded on a tab right by the upper hinge on the carrier. Then drilled it to fit the antenna. You should be able to see it in the pics. The coax goes in through the tailgate's weather strip - gets crushed a little, but not badly.
Then the coax runs under the carpet but above the aluminized insulation padding to the CB.

The coax shield gets grounded at the antenna and attaches to the radio (a small cheapie from Radio Shack.) But it's not good enough - hinges are not good conductors. Ground the coax right to the radio too. And ground the radio to a ground point under the dash. Then virtually both ends of the coax is grounded.
I also use a remote speaker/amplifier from Radio Shack. I think it was about $12? It's hooked to 12 volts all the time, but doesn't turn on unless there's a sound signal to it. I tried using the earphone jack on the radio, but it wasn't acceptable - too much of an impedance mismatch. Plus the earphone jack doesn't turn off when you are transmitting - you get a big feedback squeal. I opened the radio's case and ran wires directly from the speaker to the amplifier input - of course through a disconnect plug.

Power for the CB - the power wires, both (+) and (-) run through a hole I put in the firewall behind the battery. Those wires run directly to the battery - fused of course.

That allows the radio to be on even when the ignition is off.
The amplifier remote speaker is tee'd into that 12 volt line, ground is at the radio.

Mounting - the radio is under the dash right next to the console, right side.
The speaker/amplifier itself is mounted just above the rear view mirror on the custom roll cage I made. Even though I'm old and partially deaf, it's more than loud enough. (My wife hates it - too loud!)

If needed, I can snap pics of it.

rrich 12-11-2009 02:05 PM

To mount the antenna - a Firestick, I welded on a tab right by the upper hinge on the carrier. Then drilled it to fit the antenna. You should be able to see it in the pics. The coax goes in through the tailgate's weather strip - gets crushed a little, but not badly.
Then the coax runs under the carpet but above the aluminized insulation padding to the CB.

The coax shield gets grounded at the antenna and attaches to the radio (a small cheapie from Radio Shack.) But it's not good enough - hinges are not good conductors. Ground the coax right to the radio too. And ground the radio to a ground point under the dash. Then virtually both ends of the coax is grounded.
I also use a remote speaker/amplifier from Radio Shack. I think it was about $12? It's hooked to 12 volts all the time, but doesn't turn on unless there's a sound signal to it. I tried using the earphone jack on the radio, but it wasn't acceptable - too much of an impedance mismatch. Plus the earphone jack doesn't turn off when you are transmitting - you get a big feedback squeal. I opened the radio's case and ran wires directly from the speaker to the amplifier input - of course through a disconnect plug.

Power for the CB - the power wires, both (+) and (-) run through a hole I put in the firewall behind the battery. Those wires run directly to the battery - fused of course.

That allows the radio to be on even when the ignition is off.
The amplifier remote speaker is tee'd into that 12 volt line, ground is at the radio.

Mounting - the radio is under the dash right next to the console, right side.
The speaker/amplifier itself is mounted just above the rear view mirror on the custom roll cage I made. Even though I'm old and partially deaf, it's more than loud enough. (My wife hates it - too loud!)

If needed, I can snap pics of it.

Bignuke 12-11-2009 02:33 PM

So for your radio.. your Ground is on the battery?

rrich 12-11-2009 06:58 PM

3 places - battery, at the radio, and at the end of the coax at the antenna.


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