Spark plug and fluids questions...
Picked up a 2006 Wrangler 6-Speed in oct and I am going to be performing the 30,000 mile maintenance and change out all the fluids as well.
My first question is in regards to the spark plugs...I have looked around here and most of the recommendations are for Champion platinum plugs. When I look under my hood, the plug recommendation from the factory is NGK ZFR5N. Do I go by the factory recommendation or what I hear on here?
My second question is regarding the manual trans. fluid. I am not sure, but the Six speed is the NSG370?? What is the mopar-equivalent? Will royal purple syncromax work here? And from what I understand it takes approx 4.2 qts?
Another question is the following..to replace the diff. fluid, what would be a recommended brand?
My last question is in regards to the oil pan drain plug. I performed my first oil change on my wrangler today and all went well...but I just noticed a very tiny droplet of oil around the drain plug area...what could this be? Does this happen from over tightening? I know it certainly isn't under tightened... I will check with with my torque wrench in a bit but I wanted to check with you folks first.
Your 2006 is pretty fussy about its spark plugs. There are three good recommendations... the OE NGK you mentioned will of course work fine and it's good for 30K or so miles. What I would run though is the Autolite APP985 or Champion 7034 which are both double-tipped platinum plugs which will run great for somewhere pretty close to 100K miles. Be careful not to run the cheaper single-tipped platinum plugs though like the Autolite AP985 as single-tipped platinum (single-tipped meaning the platinum is only on one side of the gap) can cause problems later.
Royal Purple Synchromax is fine for your transmission. Can't say why you got the little drop on the drain plug, wipe it off & see if it happens again. I get mine fairly snug but be careful as that bolt has been known to strip out.
For the differential, it's not all that fussy so long as it is a good quality GL-5 or GL-6 gear lube. 70W-80, 75W-90 if you don't tow is fine or you can go with a wide range like 85W-120 or 85W-140 if you like to wheel hard. I personally prefer a non-synthetic in the axles and I run Torco 85W-140 that I buy through Currie, though Currie's name is on the bottle.
If you have a Tracloc limited slip differential in the rear, be sure the gear lube you install into the axles has a friction modifier which the Tracloc requires. 99% of the gear lubes out there have it which is fine whether you have a Tracloc or not. You can verify the friction modifier's presence or not by reading the lube container's back label where it will indicate it is compatible with limited slip differentials if the additive is present.
If your Jeep runs good on the OE NGK's, replace with them. Mine does, so I did :wavey:
I'd follow the owner's manual on oil.
The drain plug gasket should be replaced at the next service. Be careful not to cross thread.
Just because it fits the hole doesn't mean it's good. Little things like heat range and heat dissipation - not just at one speed, but all speeds, reach, indexing (which way the gap points when torqued properly.)
I would think the factory and the guys that designed the engines know more than shade tree mechanics. The factory put a label recommending the plugs they designed it for.
Same goes for fluids too. Royal Purple, Slick 50 and all that gimmick crap will make your trans hard to shift, and may even do damage. Again, use factory stuff without additives.
Look at the current thread on here called 6spd shifting.
Yes I tend to agree with you...i think im am going to stick with all factory recommendations, lucky there are alot of jeep stealerships around here!:D I do have to say that regarding Royal Purple products and slick50...royal purple makes some of the best synthetic oils and gear lubes around, no gimmicks here. I have used royal purple in my past cars and I know it is the real deal (expensive but a good product). Slick 50 to me seems like a gimmick, I dont even understand really what their products do.
Thank you Jerry and coolbreeze for the advice, it ia much appreciated.
The synchros in the transmission are fussy. They need a certain amount of friction to shift properly. If the oil isn't slippery enough, the bearings and gears wear. If it's too slippery the synchros don't have enough friction to shift properly. It's a critical balance between them.
That's why you should use the oil the factory recommends. They built it, you'd think they'd know than a magazine ad.
Purple in the engine is fine - nothing needs friction there.
If you look on the other thread you'll see how other's tried it, then dumped it out.
But go ahead, use it, then you'll be able to verify what you've been told.
It's your vehicle, treat it how you like.
Slick 50 is much slipperier than Purple ever thought of being. There's lots of gimmick stuff around.
Just make sure to never EVER add Slick 50 to your transmission, it would totally screw up the gear synchronizers. I wouldn't use it in the engine either. Come to think about it, I wouldn't use Slick 50 anywhere in any of my vehicles. :)
Notice that through the years there has been dozens of those gimmick addatives. Where are they now? Gone - many because of lawsuits.
I bought some Slick 50 just to see what it's like. It is slippery! I put it in an oiler can - good for garage door hinges, axles on the welder etc. It seems to dry out if you use it outside. I'm not so sure about using it an engine - probably good for bearings and cam, but I'd worry about the rings not sealing - too slick!
Never in a trans, it may be OK in a diff, but plain old 90 wt lasts forever.
I am a believer in STP - I saw some amazing things it's done, but it has to be changed frequently, else it turns to a plastic-like gum. STP was originally designed for cranes - the long tube telescopic extension booms. They needed something that would stay, not run off, and work in hot weather - like Saudi Arabia.
Chevron Chemical Labs developed it for that - my Dad was an engineer there. It was never intended to put in an engine. Studebaker Corp bought the patents, tried it in engines, then Andy promoted it.
I really like 50% STP and 50% 30 wt for engine assembly. But for sure not for break-in. Good old fashioned Dino oil for that - no gimmicks.
Back to the trans and why the correct oil -
Here's a picture of a broken synchro ring - the result of forcing it into gear when it hasn't brought the gears up to speed. Typical of using the wrong lube. When it's too slick it doesn't want to go into gear easily. If you force it in, the blocking ring can break. Complete teardown is required to fix it. Scroll down a little on the site.
THIS IS NOT MY WRITE UP. I simply saved this for other people so DON'T contact me about the tools
Pictures of the fragile brass blocking rings - at the top of the site. Look close and you can see the taper - inside the taper are fine little grooves to help squeegee the oil off when shifting.
Honda Acura Integra GSR Type R Differential Bearing
Here's how a manual trans works -- none of these pictures are of Jeep transmissions, but they all are very similar - they all use the synchros - there's only slight differences in dimensions.
The syncho system is shown very nicely in this article. Note the taper on the gear, note the internal taper on the blocking ring - those matching tapers pressed together act as a clutch to bring the gear up to speed so it slips into gear easily.
How a Transmission Works
It's a very informative read.
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