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-   -   Stalling problems with 97 six cylinder (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/stalling-problems-with-97-six-cylinder-42322.html)

CSmith1128 01-05-2010 05:53 PM

Stalling problems with 97 six cylinder
 
I'm having a problem with my 97 Jeep Wrangler 6 Cylinder 4.0L MFI.

I'm having trouble with the engine stalling. I try to start it and it is difficult to start. It rotates, but won't start. After a few tries, it starts up and runs for a few minutes, then stalls. I try to start it up again and it takes a few tries to start it up. When it gets warmer, it stalls less but still stalls.

Here's some background information...

- A few months ago it was shaking when it was idling, stalled out once and it threw a crankshaft position sensor code. I replaced the sensor and it fixed that problem.

- About a month ago, I was driving down the highway and the car started to shake or stumble and then stalled and I had to drift to the shoulder. Then I tried starting it and it was difficult to start. I waited a few minutes and then it started up. I drove it about a mile and it started to shake again, so I pulled over and it backfired and stalled out. Then it was hard to start again. Eventually it started up and I drove it for about an hour without any problems and I made it home. When I got home, there was coolant sprayed all over the inside of the engine compartment. It looked like it came from somewhere near the radiator cap. I checked the hoses and they looked fine. I cleaned the radiator cap and replaced it.

- Now it's hard to start and it stalls and I dont see any signs of coolant leaking.

Any ideas as to what this could cause this? Id rather check it out myself before I take it to my mechanic.

Thanks for the help!

composto86 08-26-2010 09:28 AM

"About a month ago, I was driving down the highway and the car started to shake or stumble and then stalled and I had to drift to the shoulder. Then I tried starting it and it was difficult to start. I waited a few minutes and then it started up. I drove it about a mile and it started to shake again, so I pulled over and it backfired and stalled out. Then it was hard to start again."


i am currently having this issue, the way you described it hits the nail on the head... were you able to resolve this???

any help will be appreciated
Thanks!

CSmith1128 08-26-2010 04:46 PM

I'm not really sure how I fixed it.

I changed my exhaust and found that my muffler had a huge chunk of metal in it. I'm not sure if that would have any effect on it. I also changed my ignition coil.

I haven't had a problem since then. I'd say check your ignition components, which is what I did, but I'm not a mechanic so I have no idea.

jellybelly75 08-23-2011 08:17 PM

hello all,
i have the same problem as stated above, i know this is a dead thread but i'm new here and don't know how to start a new one so i'm posting here.

the problem started about 6 months a go on and off now i can't drive to the store with out it cutting off, then it won't start/takes for every then 10-15 mins later after turning the ignition on and off seviral time it starts. the car even stalls while ideling not even being move or reved up, time differs between stalls.
i'm handy with a rench and know a little about cars myself, i've checked fuel pressure, injector pulse, and spark, all are good. when the car stalls i have no ignition pulse, some time its enough to turn off and on the ignition to start the car/get ignition pulse back. this seam like a standard problem with these build year jeep, i'm suprised that there is no lawsuits overthis or bulletins to help with diagnostic from GM. the cars not worth bringing to a shop so any help would help. i'm leaning to the body module wich is a 500$+ part so i don't want to throw parts at it.

tjtoday 08-23-2011 10:39 PM

it's either faulty, worn plugs or incorrectly gaped plugs

bad coil rail and lastly check for carbon buildup on throttle plate.

take two asprins and post me in the morning.:D

Lando25 08-23-2011 10:53 PM

Plugged cat?

tjtoday 08-23-2011 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lando25 (Post 1502967)
Plugged cat?

I Would tend to think that will keep from starting in the first place. I never seen a plugged cat run at all (unless the header is cracked) :D sorry, I just had to get that in some how tonight.

Lando25 08-23-2011 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjtoday

I Would tend to think that will keep from starting in the first place. I never seen a plugged cat run at all (unless the header is cracked) :D sorry, I just had to get that in some how tonight.

No prob. Search plugged cat, the only reason why I said it was because I read this a week ago or so. For what its worth.

Shelby427 08-24-2011 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jellybelly75 (Post 1502308)
hello all,
i have the same problem as stated above, i know this is a dead thread but i'm new here and don't know how to start a new one so i'm posting here.

the problem started about 6 months a go on and off now i can't drive to the store with out it cutting off, then it won't start/takes for every then 10-15 mins later after turning the ignition on and off seviral time it starts. the car even stalls while ideling not even being move or reved up, time differs between stalls.
i'm handy with a rench and know a little about cars myself, i've checked fuel pressure, injector pulse, and spark, all are good. when the car stalls i have no ignition pulse, some time its enough to turn off and on the ignition to start the car/get ignition pulse back. this seam like a standard problem with these build year jeep, i'm suprised that there is no lawsuits overthis or bulletins to help with diagnostic from GM. the cars not worth bringing to a shop so any help would help. i'm leaning to the body module wich is a 500$+ part so i don't want to throw parts at it.


Umm, GM didn't build the Jeep, Chrysler did.:D

OK, ALWAYS start with the basics, and go from there.
You say you are not getting pulse at times? Are there any codes set?
If not take a look at the Crankshaft Position Sensor/connector.

Very common failure. And not just in Jeeps. And it's one of those you have to catch it in the act. Check both the sensor itself, and the connector as either can cause a loss of ignition spark. If memory serves me, resistance should be around 200 ohms.

Ditto the coil, it gets hot and can shut down. Cools for a bit and will fire right back up. If you pull the coil lead off, and look real close at the top of the coil, you may see microscopic lines/cracks. Sure sign the coil is going bad. Resistance there is Primary .95 to 1.15 ohms, Secondary is 11300 to 15300 ohms.

Lastly and not as prone to failure is the Camshaft Position Sensor in the distributor.

Let me know what you find.


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