No More 5th Gear
well it happened,, 5th gone. just looking for some help and suggestions of which way to go.
94 Yj 4 cyl
There are used and rebuilt AX5s available for anywhere from a few hundred bucks up to about a grand. Alternatively, you could pull it, tear it down and rebuild it yourself. I'd probably just swap it out for a rebuilt one. Less time down, and not too hard to do.
Will an ax15 fit in there?
Anything can be made to fit, but I think you'd need to make some mods. Here's a write-up from another forum where a guy swapped an ax15 into a 2.5. He makes it sound easy, but there are quite a number of mods he needed to make, mostly as a result of the AX15 being longer.
Well, I'm finally finished installing my AX15 into my 4 banger jeep.
It actually went WAY smoother than expected.
I still need to have my rear shaft cut and balanced, so I drove home from my dads shop in front wheel drive (love the SYE already!) about 45 miles going 45mph to be safe...front is locked up and acts squirelly on the highway.
I was asked many time to do a write up on this, but I was just trying to get it done.
I don't have anything for pictures, but would be happy to answer any questions about the install, and do a set of instructions on this. I will start by assuming the old AX5 is out. I am also assuming a swap to external slave.
AX15 torque arm bracket (if not included with tranny (dealer))
AX15/NP231 TC shifter (or mod AX5/NP231 TC shifter)
'96 Dakota bellhousing
Pilot bushing/bearing if input shaft if different than your jeep's
9" 10 spline clutch disc (I used NAPA# RCF584)
Clutch alignment tool
GOOD snap ring pliers
If converting from internal to external slave:
'94 YJ: clutch fork, front bearing retainer, throw out bearing, slave cylinder.
I used a '92 YJ AX15 and NP231. This was an internal slave, so I sourced an external slave front bearing retainer, clutch fork, and Dakota bellhousing.
With this setup, I did not have to change the pilot bushing/bearing as the input shaft of the '92 AX15 is the same diameter as my '92 AX5.
I bought a '94 YJ throw out bearing. I installed the external slave front bearing retainer. Installed the bearing into the clutch fork, and mounted on the tranny.
I used a '94 YJ slave cylinder, and installed it on my factory line/clutch master cylinder. I did NOT have to fabricate a longer push rod. I bled the slave according to the instructions, and it works great.
The Dakota bell housing was bolted up and torqued to the AX15.
While the transmission was out, I installed an SYE. This was actually very simple, but I recommend a GOOD snap ring tool! Mine was Chinese junk, and I needed my dad to help me remove and install the 4 or so rings during the process.
I also drained the TC and AX15. I "flushed" the AX15 with fresh oil, and drained it again.
I used the factory AX5 tranny mount because they are the same as the AX15. My AX15 did not include the factory torque arm bracket so I ordered one through the dealership ($65).
My skid had elongated holes that did not require notching for the longer transmission (see below).
The new bell housing and the AX15 add about 3 inches to the overall length of the drivetrain, so expect to notch the floor pan for the TC shifter. I could not find a factory AX15 shifter, so I bought a B&M on sale ($160). The transmission shifter clears the floor pan just fine.
The TC shifter needs a notch in the floor about 1.5" wide by 2" long.
The AX5 TC is not a direct bolt on. Expect to elongate the top two bolt holes for the AX15 shifter bolt patter, and I also needed to elongate the lower bolt hole. The AX5 TC shifter and linkage now works perfectly.
I reused my factory flywheel and pressure plate. Using a clutch alignment tool, I quickly had the new clutch installed and the pressure plate back on.
A transmission jack is your friend! I did not have one, so we wrestled with the drive train for way too long! Once you get the DT level with the engine, you can slide the DT forward. Getting it level is very important because you do not want to damage your pilot bushing/bearing. Sliding the DT forward you should feel the bell housing and engine block mate via the locating dowels.
Install the shifters after notching the floor board and reinstall the TC linkage.
Bleed and install the new clutch slave.
You can now install the skid and measure for the front and rear driveshafts as neither will fit because of the increased DT length. If you installed and SYE like I did, you can go cheap and use the front drive shaft from a Cherokee ($25 wrecking yard). After these are cut/lengthened/balanced, you can install them. Bolt up the tranny mount and you should be good to go.
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