Jeep Wrangler Forum

Jeep Wrangler Forum (
-   YJ General Discussion Forum (
-   -   Time to give life back to my YJ (

crtaylor 02-19-2010 10:11 AM

Time to give life back to my YJ
cam and lifters just showed up:DTime to quite typing and get wrenching .:D Cant wait to hear it running again.

whiteyj 02-19-2010 10:23 AM

Sweet! Enjoy.......I would gladly trade you the three hours of back to back mind numbing meetings I have this morning. Much rather be playing in the garage.

crtaylor 02-19-2010 05:12 PM

Ok got it put back together enough to fire it up.Its alive .:D time to relax.
it was a simple job ,damn near a no brainer .Remember I just a dumb old one eyed ;) bodyman. my 1st attempt to fire no good. 1 tooth off on dist.reset and bam, fire in the hole:punk:

crtaylor 02-19-2010 06:43 PM

what would cause the lobe to spin ,grind off? Im holding 55psi oil pressure.

Garyk 02-19-2010 09:06 PM

How many miles on it? The lifter could have done it or its just the face hardening worn off or was never really hardened properly in the first place. I have seen them wear off in one race in a modified race car.

crtaylor 02-20-2010 08:09 AM

not sure,100,000+ used engine.sounds good now. I need to run the cam in today .after I finish up the loose ends

Garyk 02-20-2010 05:21 PM

I had a loud lifter so today took them all out and replaced rockers and push rods while I was at it. Pulling out the last lifter on #4, it fell off the lifter tool, what a pain in the ass, the one magnet I had was a pencil type, took me about 30 minutes to get that damn thing out, was a pain in the ass going in too.
But all lifters looked like new, couple were sticking though, all cleaned now. Took me longer to get the RTV off the valve cover.

crtaylor 02-20-2010 05:59 PM

Here I sit puffing away on my Ecig .flipping out .running cam in as per instructions .about 30 mins in run time the oilpressure starts to drop.Ive had to remove the damn thing a few times ,it also has about 198,000 on it .its out of my orig engine .not going to get to excited until I replace with a new one .the thing Im fliping out about is these Lame ass parts stores dont stock sht for jeeps. Any time I leave the house I see a ton of them runnig around .Why the hell they got to order everything I need .its not a freaking oddball vehicle .my girl drives a damn 93 TAURAS THEY HAVE EVERYTHING FOR IT .most of them are in the bone yard I just happento have a nice one yet .other than the oilpressure BS it seems ok.Im done now got to wait till freaking mon for this stupid little part to show up:banghead:

jpdocdave 02-20-2010 06:07 PM

pay very close attention to break in procedure. very important. there was also a run of bad cams i can't remember who it was, crane or comp. many cams flattened out, they blamed it on break in.

the oil is also different now days, they've removed a lot of the zinc content which sucks. zinc is great for the life of the motor, and wear, but bad for the catalytic converters. so they removed zinc for emissions, and sacrificed longevity of engines

jpdocdave 02-20-2010 06:11 PM

nice little read about it here:


Zinc Oil Additive

The benefits of oils with a higher zinc content, or using a zinc additive.
February, 2007
By Marlan Davis

Zinc Oil Additive
-February 2007-

Question: I thoroughly enjoyed the tech article "When Good Cams Go Bad" (June '06), but I have a couple of questions: If you have an older car without a catalytic converter but don't have flat tappets, is there any advantage to using the oils with higher zinc content? Also, I have a '56 Chevy with a Bill Mitchell 427 small-block. It has the aluminum block and heads (my version of a ZL1). Is there any adverse reaction between aluminum and zinc?
Ron McCranie
Denver, CO

Answer: Quaker State engineer Mark Ferner said zinc's extreme pressure qualities also aid in reducing piston ring-to-cylinder bore wear at BDC and TDC, where the rotating assembly sees an abrupt change in velocity and direction. Besides its extreme pressure protection, multifunctional zinc also functions as an antioxidant. That is, things exposed to heat and oxygen are subject to oxidation. In the case of a ferrous metal like iron, oxidation causes corrosion, which we see as rust. As applied to motor oil, Ferner said as the "heat accelerates oxygen, the oil starts to oxidize and thicken, changing into other molecular combinations. As the oil thickens, it forms deposits or varnish. In motor oil, the antioxidant additives first sacrifice themselves to prevent this oxidation from occurring, but if they get overwhelmed, the oil eventually turns into a hard, crusty sludge."

In its antioxidant role, zinc fights heat buildup in various hot spots like the piston-to-piston ring interface and the underside of the piston itself. Oil can accumulate in the honing crosshatch marks in the cylinder bore where it is exposed to combustion temperatures as high as 400-450 degrees F, a prime candidate for oxidation if not protected. Today's modern reduced-zinc passenger-car street oils contain other dedicated antioxidants to make up for the loss of zinc.

The potential zinc downside is that in theory, an engine with excessive blow-by could accumulate zinc deposits in the combustion chamber, potentially becoming a detonation magnet. But Ferner maintained, "You would need a fairly good amount of blow-by to really be bad for the chamber. There used to be 1,400-1,500 zinc ppm in [passenger-car] motor oils, about where [Shell] Rotella [diesel-truck] oil is now. We ran those high levels for years and years and never had a problem with chamber deposits building up. Zinc accumulation mainly affects oxygen sensors and catalytic converters, which are very sensitive to the ash that may accumulate on them."

Regarding a potential reaction between aluminum and zinc, again, in theory, when dissimilar metals come in contact with one another, a phenomenon known as galvanic corrosion can occur. When this happens, the least-noble metal acts as an anode and will corrode preferentially compared with the other, less active, cathodic metal. A common example we've all seen is using stainless steel bolts and washers to retain an aluminum intake manifold. After long-term use, if you remove the bolts and washers, the aluminum surface underneath those washers will be corroded because aluminum is less noble than stain-less steel. A solution would be to use zinc- or cadmium-plated washers instead of stainless washers. The plated steel washers then become the least noble material of the three in contact, sacrificing themselves to protect the critical parts. (Of course, they'll end up looking ugly and need to be replaced, but that's better than ruining an expensive intake.) In the case of zinc additives versus your aluminum block, Ferner reported "no adverse reaction between aluminum and zinc at the levels we are discussing. Fourteen-hundred ppm would be 0.14 percent by weight-it's insignificant." Actually it's even less than that, since "the zinc additive is not free metallic zinc or powder; it's part of a zinc/phosphorous/sulphur compound, so really it's only about 0.06-0.08 percent by weight" of the motor-oil brew.

crtaylor 02-20-2010 06:18 PM


Originally Posted by jpdocdave (Post 551430)
pay very close attention to break in procedure. very important. there was also a run of bad cams i can't remember who it was, crane or comp. many cams flattened out, they blamed it on break in.

the oil is also different now days, they've removed a lot of the zinc content which sucks. zinc is great for the life of the motor, and wear, but bad for the catalytic converters. so they removed zinc for emissions, and sacrificed longevity of engines

Im trying to do this per instructions ,Its a melling cam and lifters from Auto Zone .I did notice oil is freaky it even looks different .I got some QState ($10) for 5qts just to flush out the engine I got enough for 3 oil changes from Wally world but its probablly made in china also hehe. After that Ill get some Lucas oil treatment

crtaylor 02-21-2010 11:38 AM

I just remembed I have a mech.oilpressure gauge ,hooked it up and 40 psi at idel,55 at 2000rpm.sure glad its ok.:D

crtaylor 02-21-2010 03:42 PM

well I was wrong,after I got it up to temp, oil pressure droped to an unsafe the pan comes off .oil pump is junk ! sterted pulling mains after i spotted a small piece of shit hanging out the center main cap .well its the bearing junk.
I think im gonna part the f-ing thing out

crtaylor 02-21-2010 08:10 PM

Now that I calmed down,I found a reman crank with rod and mains for 188bucks.Im in this far got to keep going :banghead: The block is as clean as the day it was put together.I will re ring it and new oilpump.I will also change cam bearings .In other words complete rebuild.Wow this jeep is killing me. :eek:
I know Its A Jeep Thing :doh:

scrambler1 02-21-2010 08:31 PM

You dont screw around,hope everything works out.

yjkid95 02-21-2010 10:15 PM

Let me know how the rebuild goes if you could. My 2.5 has a bad rod bearing and i plan on rebuilding the motor with new rods pistons rings cam crankshaft and all new bearings maybe even a new head and valvetrain

crtaylor 02-22-2010 05:41 AM

sure will,I keep telling my jeep I not going to do a round headlight conversion but i think its still mad at me:rolleyes::rolleyes:for eventhinking it:D

crtaylor 02-22-2010 04:44 PM

I just found a 2.5 in a jeep for $450 going to hear it run on wed.They say it has 73,000 on it .
What do you guys think???

Ill keep this engine and rebuild at a later date.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:06 AM.

User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.1.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.