Jeep Wrangler Forum

Jeep Wrangler Forum (http://www.wranglerforum.com/)
-   TJ Tech Forum (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/)
-   -   rubicon locker sensor (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/rubicon-locker-sensor-53080.html)

FREDO 4X4 06-15-2010 03:52 PM

rubicon locker sensor
 
HI I have rubicon 2003 and i have a question if anyone can help that would be great. I broke the wire flush off my rear diff sensor (dana 44) the locker is still working. but i would like to replace the sensor. from what i been reading about this people say i have to take the locker out and everything to replace this sensor. But i am able to remove the sensor from out side the housing. So i was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if they managed to get the light working again without removing everything out of the housing. To me this should be as simple and turn the sensor out and turn the new one in. I called 3 dealers and none of them knew. I can run it like this but i just dont like flashing lights in the dash. anyways hope you can help.

FREDO 4X4 06-16-2010 02:20 PM

Does anyone know of a site i may go to or a place i could call that may know or have information about this thanks.

03 RUBI 06-16-2010 07:12 PM

Do you have, or can you get your hands on the FSM? That may help you. Another thought is to PM Jerry Bransford, as he may be able to help. He just got a Rubicon.

rrich 06-16-2010 11:48 PM

You unscrewed it - the seats didn't collapse, the engine didn't blow up, you didn't have a heart attack?

Simply screw the new one in.

If you broke the plunger inside you may have to take it all apart, but replacing the outside part - the switch - because of a broken wire is no problem.

Look at the one you took out compared to the new one.

FREDO 4X4 07-17-2010 09:02 PM

well ok where to start. I replaced the sensor im not sure if its seating in the correct place or not it sounded like it poped into place. anyways after replacing the sensor light was still flashing so i started to check everything and i found a air line hose broken so i replaced it. Light was still flashing in the dash. searched the internet for a long time found that its possible to over tighten the filler plug on the diff cover and push it up against the part of the locker that moves when it engages. So i go out and pull the plug and sure enough there was a wear mark in the magnet and im sure it was over tightened. so i pulled the cover and jacked up the rear diff. After the air is supplied i can clearly see that the part that engages the locker is moving and working like it was sapposed to. I cant see any damage on any of the working parts. I dont think the locker is working cause when i engage the locker on the jack the wheels are still spinning in different directions. Does anyone know if this is how you test it or if there is a better way. The limited-slip part is working but im really not sure if the locker is working. If anyone can knows how to test this thing or has any ideas that would help alot. I will take it apart if i have to but i really dont want to if its maybe possible to fix without taking it apart there is not noise in the rear and it drives really smooth.

OBM 07-17-2010 10:40 PM

If you had a broken air line you may have gotten an obstruction, the rubi locker works on only 5 or 7 psi. Start the jeep and turn on your reat locker and go underneath and see if you can hear one of the mini compressors running they are at the rear of the belly pan on the drivers side. If you have a compressor running check and see in it is making air, if it is go to the air line that goes into the diff housing. If you have air at that point remove the diff cover and check if you are getting air through that small "L" shaped tube that goes through the housing, sometimes that tube gets plugged and sometimes the air line inside the housing that goes to the locker actuator slips off the tube and sometimes in's rotten. If you have air all the way to the locker air actuator it may be the actuator it's self in that case you will have to remove the carrier and check out the air actuator. Be careful when pulling out the carrier and make sure that you do NOT get the shims mixed up, side to side. The air actuator will come right out when you pull the chunk.
Most jeep dealership mechanics don't know anything about rubi lockers but maybe a few do, I haven't met one yet. It's a pretty straight foreward project just take your time, trouible shoot thouroughly and you shouldn't ahve any problem.

OBM 07-17-2010 10:42 PM

If you had a broken air line you may have gotten an obstruction, the rubi locker works on only 5 or 7 psi. Start the jeep and turn on your reat locker and go underneath and see if you can hear one of the mini compressors running they are at the rear of the belly pan on the drivers side. If you have a compressor running check and see in it is making air, if it is go to the air line that goes into the diff housing. If you have air at that point remove the diff cover and check if you are getting air through that small "L" shaped tube that goes through the housing, sometimes that tube gets plugged and sometimes the air line inside the housing that goes to the locker actuator slips off the tube and sometimes in's rotten. If you have air all the way to the locker air actuator it may be the actuator it's self in that case you will have to remove the carrier and check out the air actuator. Be careful when pulling out the carrier and make sure that you do NOT get the shims mixed up, side to side. The air actuator will come right out when you pull the chunk.
Most jeep dealership mechanics don't know anything about rubi lockers but maybe a few do, I haven't met one yet. It's a pretty straight foreward project just take your time, trouible shoot thouroughly and you shouldn't have any problem.

FREDO 4X4 07-18-2010 10:32 AM

compressors are working pumping and stopping. when i had the diff cover off i can see the diaphram type part shift over in place when the switch is flipped but im just not sure if its locking in or not. maybe the sensor is just not seated right i read i have to pull the carrier out some to get the sensor in place . but that dont make any sense to me cause if the sensor is on the inside of the diaphram ring thing than how does it just pull out. it should be locked into place. I think i may pull the sensor out and move the plunger on it manually and see if the light goes on solid. if thats the case than i may have to pull the carrier out to seat it in place. i read i can just loosen the caps and there is enough play to get it in place. but i will still not know cause it is in behind the carrier and i cant see it.

Jerry Bransford 07-18-2010 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03 RUBI (Post 657788)
Another thought is to PM Jerry Bransford, as he may be able to help. He just got a Rubicon.

I haven't even gotten my new-to-me Rubicon's lockers working or figured out yet so I won't be any help. I just got the used compressors in the mail last week the previous owner sent me (the compressors were missing when I bought the Rubicon) but they did not work after plugging them in. I haven't even begun to troubleshoot them with all the other higher priority stuff on the Jeep that I'm working on.

FREDO 4X4 07-18-2010 02:44 PM

well i pulled the sensor out and pulled the plunger in and out but the light would not come on solid still so i checked the plug for power coming into the sensor it says i have 5 volts coming in. so maybe my new sensor is bad or maybe i broke it from turning it in without removing the carrier first. it is for sure on the wrong side of the diaphram thing cause it has wear makes on the head of the plunger not on the inside like its sappose to. I got no luck should i pull it all apart to install a possible bad sensor. maybe i should install a toggle switch for the locker light lol.

FREDO 4X4 07-25-2010 03:42 PM

Ok so managed to get it installed in the correct place by loosening the cap bolts and turned one wheel until i heard it pop into place. Light was still flashing i thought for sure i had it in the wrong place. So i checked for resistance on the sensor with the locker engaged and unengaged was at zero. So i just told myself the new sensor is bad. I hate buying new things that are no good. anyways i broke the ceramic part up on my old sensor and soldered some new wires on and cut the the harness off my new sensor. reinstalled and no more flashing lights. what a waste of a hundred bucks. I read in a few places that you need to completely remore the front carrier to reinstall sensor. And if you are running 75w140 syn that can be a pricey little sensor. But i really dont like flashing lights in the dash.

NHrubicon 07-30-2010 08:51 AM

I'll piggyback on this thread...if no one minds.
I had my lockers converted to run off on-board Viair system in January-OEM pumps kept shorting out past 2 years usually in the middle of a very hard run.
Everything was replaced (hoses, etc.) and routed up to the fender wall under the hood.
So...of course, in the middle of a hard trail at the jamboree we lost all lockers. BUT this time it was just 'nothing', no lights on the dash for the lockers, switch did nothing...next morning, sitting in the parking lot-everything worked. ON the trail, nothing. Suspicions are the switch is bad-does anyone have a part number so I can order the new switch and get it installed? Local dealer doesn't work with me-long story-short answer they ended up in court when I sued Chrysler for not honoring warranty and I won...on appeals and State Supreme Court...won every time. So I can't call them for help...
anyone have some info to help me out?

snwchris 07-30-2010 09:36 AM

I haven't had any issue of this yet.. but would recommend searching over on the rubiconownersforum for more detailed info.

Chris

snwchris 07-30-2010 10:10 AM

Also the independant (dual) locker "MOD" is nice to have as well, if not atleast the bypass mod is a nice function to do for the Rubi lockers.

With the "mod" you can bypass the safety feature and able to lock in 4HI or 4LO.

With the dual locker mod, you can operate independantly in any t-case position. They way it's currently set-up is front wil not engage unless the rear is already locked. So if the rear locker ever fails or does not operate while out on trail, you still can engage the front.

Chris

NHrubicon 07-30-2010 10:17 AM

I was always told (on my 03) that the switch for lockers operated-
first click, rear locker
second click, front and rear
third click, front only
and pull the switch 'up' to shut them off.

snwchris 07-30-2010 10:24 AM

First click, engages Rear Locker
Second click, engages Front Locker (rear already on)
Third click turns lockers off

NHrubicon 07-30-2010 10:27 AM

Well, that would be nice IF it worked at all! I know there is power to the switch, with dash lights on the switch lights up, and last night we tested the lockers sitting in the driveway and everything worked right-we could hear the clicks, indicators worked, but I'll bet the minute we hit the trail they will stop-so it's either loose wire somewhere or switch going bad and cutting out when the jeep bounces on something.
Guess I'll have to get it to the mechanic that did all the swapping around and pay him to trace it down. Some of the rocky trails here we want to be out on need the lockers to work right so we don't burn off tread!

snwchris 07-30-2010 10:39 AM

Hmmm I would say either bad relay or switch???

Did you check the air lines both outside and inside the diff to make sure no cracks or inside that they didn't slip of tube in the diff.

Also check the plastic fitting, they can be fragile as well.

I think Jeepsareus???? might have the rubi switch
Jeeps Are Us: Axles - Dana 44 35 30 & Gears <br>Rubicon,, Airlockers, trac loc,<br>4wd & Off Road<br>

NHrubicon 07-30-2010 11:43 AM

No one thought of a bad relay...hmmmm...that may be easy for him to check.
Definitely in the electrical end-because when they 'went' the dash indicators didn't light up at all-not even a blink. When the OEM pumps were shorting out (wiring) at least the lights would blink rapidly-showing on/off/on/off until I would just shut them off because they never engaged. First couple of test runs this year after the ViAir was added and everything moved (wiring, hoses) they worked fine...until halfway through first day at jamboree. Second day we had to drop down a trail rating to run without them.
So I'll have the relay checked out first. I was thinking switch and wiring to it because we had the console face off a couple times to run wiring and antenna for CB mounted up in the change tray now-thinking maybe extra antenna cord was hitting the back of the switch wiring...
guess it's time to bring it over to him.
Thanks for giving me another possibility to look at-relay might just be the culprit since it would get bounced around on trails and not on flat ground.

snwchris 07-30-2010 01:53 PM

You do realize that they blink on/off until it's fully engaged and stays light once engaged, correct??? Sometimes you have to drive forward or reverse just a little to get them to mesh up and the light turns solid.

Chris

3855 02-22-2011 09:29 AM

Hello eveyone, I sure could use some help here. I have recently purchased a 04 Rubion and have had it for a couple of months. The previous owner had installed a bypass locker switch. (not sure about the diodes) The lockers (w/bypass switch) seemed to work just just fine when used during these past few months with no problems. However, yesterday after having my jeep lubed and fuild leves checked, my rear locker dash ligh started to flash and my rear locked seemed to be partually engaged (even with the bypass and factory switches off) in the rear (I think rear only) during a right or left turn. It makes a large poping sound along with bad jerk depending how fast I am moving. This all happens when I am turning left or right. Can you shed any light on this and/or possible fix? Is it possible that the guy checking the fuild level turned the plug in to far cause this to happen? I would appreciate whatever anyone can do to help me out. My email address is 3855@gmx.com. Thank you!

Jerry Bransford 02-22-2011 09:44 AM

It's entirely possible the lube guy overtightened the diff cover fill plug and it's knocking into the differential inside, back it out a turn or two and see what happens. This happens enough that we all need to be careful to not overtighten our differential fill plugs, especially for us Rubicon Owners. :)

herbie 02-22-2011 10:03 PM

not sure how that setup is configured from good ole factory but could you not rig up an on board air system and dump that factory stuff

Jerry Bransford 02-22-2011 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herbie (Post 1075407)
not sure how that setup is configured from good ole factory but could you not rig up an on board air system and dump that factory stuff

It's not easy and the usual cause of problemss are not with the Rubicon's compressor anyway. Plus the Rubicon's locker only runs on about 5 psi and it's hard to regulate the usual OBA system's 85-120 psi reliably all the way down to 5 psi so it won't blow out the Rubicon's locker.

3855 02-23-2011 08:04 AM

Jerry,
Thank you for the reply. I found the problem. it was from the overtightening plug that engaged the actuator causing the lockers to part way ingaged. It cause about $1500 worth of damage. Wal-Mart said to get it fixed and bring them the receipt. I guess I will were things go from there. That is what I get for having Wal-Mart do a quick lube and check levels.

NHrubicon 02-24-2011 07:28 AM

Ouch! At least they aren't fighting you over fixing it-did they put it in WRITING that they would cover the reciepts?
As for switching to on board air to replace the locker compressor-I had it done and it is very easy to regulate the air pressure. I couldn't believe how rusted out the pumps were when the mechanic took them out-they are up on top of the transfer case, caked in mud where it couldn't get washed off. Now I have the convenience of on board air for filling up after runs and also guaranteed to work lockers. Problem eventually turned out not to be locker pumps-but a bad locker switch anyways!

3855 02-25-2011 10:14 AM

I am glad that everything worked out with your jeep issues. I will pick up my jeep sometime today.Did you do the locker modification thing? If so did you put in the diodes as talked about in the forum. Also, if so, do you have a wiring diagram of the finished product?
3855

Todd3877 02-04-2012 06:05 PM

I have an 06 Rubicon and my exhaust melted my sensor wires causing them to short, that will make rear locker light flash at all times, I pulled out the sensor and bought a new one. cant get it behind the locker skirt, tried loosening carrier bolts and spinning wheels. no luck, though it move a bit, still need a 16th of an inch or less. should i remove axles or does anyone think a few taps with a slide hammer with axles installed would hurt anything?

dakdoc 05-26-2012 08:47 PM

FREDO, I think I have a similar problem
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by FREDO 4X4 (Post 656273)
HI I have rubicon 2003 and i have a question if anyone can help that would be great. I broke the wire flush off my rear diff sensor (dana 44) the locker is still working. but i would like to replace the sensor. from what i been reading about this people say i have to take the locker out and everything to replace this sensor. But i am able to remove the sensor from out side the housing. So i was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if they managed to get the light working again without removing everything out of the housing. To me this should be as simple and turn the sensor out and turn the new one in. I called 3 dealers and none of them knew. I can run it like this but i just dont like flashing lights in the dash. anyways hope you can help.


FREDO, is there a way I can contact you to see if you resolved your problem? Here's what happened to me. My lockers have hardly been used but have worked flawlessly every time I've needed them. This week, I had a good mechanic change the carrier bearings and seals in the rear diff on my 05 rubicon. When I picked it up, the rear axle was locked and would not come unlocked. When we pulled the rear cover, the locker plate was cocked a bit and partially engaged, and would not come undone. We screwed out the indicator switch and as that was being screwed out, the plate simultaneously moved back into the completely unlocked position. When the switch was screwed back into place, the locker plate once again was moved back over into a "half-ass-locked" position.

The switch itself works, and I know this because when everything is disassembled and the locker switch is thrown on when in 4L, the light only blinks. However, when that little locker indicator switch is pulled out down at the rear diff, the light goes completely on. When it's released, the light starts to blink again.

To test this theory, I removed the locker indicator switch from the front differential. Sure enough, when the lockers are engaged, the light now only blinks, however when the switch is pulled, the front light comes on completely. Now though, when I screwed the switch back into the differential housing, somehow the front axle is completely locked and will not come unlocked. So, I unscrewed the switch halfway and now it's free wheeling again.

Did you ever figure out how to get these switches installed correctly?

thaskins 06-10-2012 12:19 PM

rubicon lockers
 
thank you for the forum!! I have a rubicon that is presently not locking. I will purchase a new switch because it was doing the same thing as the other NH guys rubi was doing.... in the parking lot it worked fine, then when I was in the sh__ I told the guy I was with "don't worry I have lockers" needless to say we eventually got out using the winch... I will order the switch today , thanks for the insight...I'll let you all know how it turns out.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:36 AM.