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OklaTJ 06-20-2010 09:20 PM

Auto Paint
 
Witch auto paint is a good lasting paint for a (Newbie) at painting with air? My TJ is in bad need of a new paint job,Just looking for some pointers on type and such! Thanks for any reply's

Blackbeard1718 06-20-2010 11:16 PM

I'd go with Dupont ChromaPremier!

Best of Luck!

Cheers!

BB

OklaTJ 06-21-2010 07:13 AM

Thanks I'll look in to it!

4Jeepn 06-21-2010 07:23 AM

Painting mine in a few weeks with PPG shopline, lower grade, but its more of a $$ for me.

sevenservices 06-21-2010 07:47 AM

I use "House of Kolor"

Couple tips off the top of my head...

prep will make or break a paintjob, make sure its smooth. You can spray grey primer, then speckle it with black. Grab a sanding block and sand your primer. Any low spots that are still slightly dented will keep their black spots after going over them with a flat sanding block.

Make sure and get/use an air dryer. It goes on your compressor and keeps the moisture out of your paint/hoses & gun.

Don't use an air hose that has had oil put through it for tools. If you oil at the tool, your ok. But if you have an oiler system for tools, do not use it for paint.

gravity feed rules for the sprayer, saves paint and is easier to tilt when painting.

Be sure and strain your paint through a paint filter when putting it in the gun. After shaking well of course (shake for at least five minutes)

If possible, paint it in a closed area to prevent bugs and dust from getting into the paint. Even if you hang plasic in the garage, just make sure you have an exhaust for fumes to get sucked out. And, spend the $40 on a good resperator. One of the 40-50 hour ones. Just keep it in a big ziplock bag and write the time you used it on the bag (2 hours, check!) (3 hours, check!) etc... until it is used up. Breath in a bunch of that laquer and tell you what, you won't be posting pics for us to say the least :(

Wet sanding it is always needed after your final coat of clear. Use 2,000 grit with water on the large areas. It will dull it as you sand, this is ok. Once wetsanded the next step is to buff in a leveling compound, then a polishing compound. This is the step that really makes the paint look like you could reach right into it. For this, I use the Race Glaze LVL'ing and Polishing compounds.

After painting, DO NOT wax it for at least 60 days, sometimes even 90 depending on the paint.

here is an example of the House of Kolor black...

http://www.svnsvs.com/cart/7cart.JPG

This is my bike I painted terquoise...

http://www.svnsvs.com/Storage/731000.jpg

http://www.svnsvs.com/Storage/larebel/IMG_7857.JPG

A lot of people ask about the "LaRebel". Thats how my last name was spelt back in the 1600s.

OklaTJ 06-21-2010 08:57 AM

Thanks sevenservices I copped a pasted it to my PC! Thanks for all that info, when I get it done I'll post pic's! It will be a few weeks.

530ktm 06-21-2010 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sevenservices (Post 662562)
I use "House of Kolor"

Couple tips off the top of my head...

prep will make or break a paintjob, make sure its smooth. You can spray grey primer, then speckle it with black. Grab a sanding block and sand your primer. Any low spots that are still slightly dented will keep their black spots after going over them with a flat sanding block.

Make sure and get/use an air dryer. It goes on your compressor and keeps the moisture out of your paint/hoses & gun.

Don't use an air hose that has had oil put through it for tools. If you oil at the tool, your ok. But if you have an oiler system for tools, do not use it for paint.

gravity feed rules for the sprayer, saves paint and is easier to tilt when painting.

Be sure and strain your paint through a paint filter when putting it in the gun. After shaking well of course (shake for at least five minutes)

If possible, paint it in a closed area to prevent bugs and dust from getting into the paint. Even if you hang plasic in the garage, just make sure you have an exhaust for fumes to get sucked out. And, spend the $40 on a good resperator. One of the 40-50 hour ones. Just keep it in a big ziplock bag and write the time you used it on the bag (2 hours, check!) (3 hours, check!) etc... until it is used up. Breath in a bunch of that laquer and tell you what, you won't be posting pics for us to say the least :(

Wet sanding it is always needed after your final coat of clear. Use 2,000 grit with water on the large areas. It will dull it as you sand, this is ok. Once wetsanded the next step is to buff in a leveling compound, then a polishing compound. This is the step that really makes the paint look like you could reach right into it. For this, I use the Race Glaze LVL'ing and Polishing compounds.

After painting, DO NOT wax it for at least 60 days, sometimes even 90 depending on the paint.

here is an example of the House of Kolor black...

http://www.svnsvs.com/cart/7cart.JPG

This is my bike I painted terquoise...

http://www.svnsvs.com/Storage/731000.jpg

http://www.svnsvs.com/Storage/larebel/IMG_7857.JPG

A lot of people ask about the "LaRebel". Thats how my last name was spelt back in the 1600s.

Nice Sportster. You don't see to many shovel heads in this condition.

sevenservices 06-22-2010 09:25 AM

Thanks!!!

I've put A LOT of work into 'er. Before we picked 'er up she was layed down by a guy and it scared the hell out of him. He parked it in the garage for years. Im currently sitting at just over 11,000 original miles. (1973 XLCH)


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