NooB help needed
Hi guys (and gals),:wavey:
I just bought me a 2010 Sport 2D, manual, 3.8. Being that I live 1-1/2 hours away from the Rubicon, I wanted to see what the order of prioroty was for getting her Rubicon ready.
I should have about $4K-$5K saved up by september for mods/cosmetics. And I was hoping to get some insight on the order of my upgrades as well as a few tips on some NooB questions.
#1) I want to upgrade the tires to 35"s, are A/T good enough (obviously after I let air out) or do I need M/T, Swampers, ect.?
#2) do I need to get the suspension lift taken care of before the 35"
#3) If I go with 35" tires what's a good gear ratio?
#4) If I go with 35"s what's a good suspension lift height?
#5) Can the Dana 30 front axel handle it? My only rubicon reference is my buddy who has Dana 60s front and rear, but he's on a Dodge truck and from what I've read that's a bit excessive for the lighter Wrangler. Should I get at lest the D44s for the front?
#6) And I noticed a lot of you get 1/4"-1/2" higher lift on the front. Why is that.
#6) And any other pointers you xperienced Studs and Stud-ets can help with.
P.S. this will be my daily driver so I'm going for a "Survive the Rubicon" mentality not "Dominate the Rubicon". I want to find that happy medium where I'm not welding on the trail, :(but still enjoying my drive to work too.:D
if your going to get 35's, go with a MT. my logic is if you need a 35" tire to run the terrain you're on, an AT isn't going to cut it. some MT's wear well on the street and are pretty quiet if that's your concern.
35's rub on the street with no lift so I'd address that first. I did my tires and lift simultaniously to avoid a goofy look and not destroy my fenders. you're going to want a MINIMUM of 3". heavy rock climbing I'd advise more. maybe 4". I've got the Teraflex 2.5" lift and netted 3". I haven't got it to rub, but it's close. big rocks just might do it.
as for gears, no less than 4.10's with 35's. I live in flat Ohio, and 4.10's with 35's and a Superchip are plenty. if you live in a hilly region, get 4.88 for a manual, and 5.13 for an automatic. the hill shifting will drive you nuts.
a JK D30 is pretty tough, much more than a TJ or YJ's. I've broken a u-joint so far, and I'm not afraid of the gas pedal. I'm a fan of "run it till you bust it" but a JK 30 is pretty good. with some chromo shafts, and a couple C gussets, it starts to rival the 44. those are it's 2 weak points. if you manage to bend the tube or housing, a 44 is needed. but wheelin' how I sometimes do, I don't see how folks manage to destroy a 30 with 35's. with rocks, just take it easy.
more lift in the front is "built in" to the lift. this is done to eliminate the factory rake in all JK's, and to compensate for the added weight of a bumper and/or winch.
in summary, 35's with 3" or higher should drive all over the Rubicon. easy with the gas and a good spotter will let you get through it with a D30, but stronger shafts and gussets on the C's I'd recommend. 4.10 gears at least, and 4.88 and 5.13 are popular. use MT's. AT's are for camping and dirt parking lots. you'll get loads more traction on rocks and mud with mudders.
Groundhawg Thanks for the great advice!! This site rocks.
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