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-   -   rear tow hook?? (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/rear-tow-hook-62959.html)

AtcoTrailsINC 09-24-2010 09:34 PM

rear tow hook??
 
besides a new bumper or a hitch whats the alternatives for a rear tow hook?

Jeep TJ Wrangler 97-06 Black Rear Tow Hook [RAM 7783] - $32.97 : T and J Performance Center | 714-633-0991 | 1002 W. Collins Ave, Orange, CA, 92867, T&J Performance Center | Bring It....

these are all i find and i cant begin to figure out how they would be used with the stock rear bumper.

So lets see em guys, i want some pics! :pop:

AtcoTrailsINC 09-24-2010 09:37 PM

Forgot, i know some Tj's came stock with a rear tow hook but i cant find that anywhere!!! so frustrating.

GoldTJ 09-24-2010 09:38 PM

Get a receiver hitch,then purchase a tow hook that plugs into it!Or better yet,buy a recovery bumper that has attachment points built in!

Kate 09-24-2010 09:38 PM

Look into the one that comes on the back of the Rubicons.
Don't know if they came on other models or not.

This is the only picture I have close at hand. Look on the left side, below the bumper. It works just fine but does bump on a rock now and then.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/m...IMGP0239-1.jpg

Edit: Well, it's hidden behind the shackle. but that's where it goes and it's shaped like a bic C, not like the front bumper hooks.

Edit the sequil:
I Googled "Rubicon rear bumper hook"
It's on the left.
http://www.dog-walker.us/07Rubicon/A...%20carrier.jpg

03 RUBI 09-24-2010 09:44 PM

I have a rear stock tow hook from a 03 Rubicon. Email or send me a private message and we'll see what we can work out.

AtcoTrailsINC 09-24-2010 09:45 PM

im kinda trying to stay away from buying a hitch or bumper rite now but thats in the future when money is more on hand. for rite now i just want something outback, im sick of pulling the buddies out with the front two hooks lol. I cant find those damn C hooks your talking about though...just my luck:banghead:

mjfitzner 09-25-2010 10:41 AM

I didnt have any rear recovery on my 06 X and some buddies and I were going to hit the trails and I wanted some just in case. Turns out I did really need them. I just went to the local harbor freight and picked up 2 tow hooks at about 8 bucks a piece. I used a metal 1/2" (IIRC) drill bit and went about 7 inches from each end of the bumper. I used them a few times to get my buddies out/get my a$$ unstuck.
http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/s...9/IMG_0588.jpg


http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/s...9/IMG_0587.jpg

Jerry Bransford 09-25-2010 12:30 PM

1 Attachment(s)
:eek: That above top-mounted tow hook should be removed immediately, it is in NO way strong enough to be used for a serious recovery. The OE (factory) bumper is only made from sheet metal and that top mounted tow hook would just be ripped out of the sheet metal if used for a serious recovery. :eek: A top mounted tow hook only works on the front bumper because the bolts drop down into the frame below that the front bumper is mounted over. The frame does not extend into the rear bumper however.

Short of having a rear bumper that was specifically designed for shackle (D-ring) attach points which means they are through-welded on at least 3/16" steel, you have to go with a frame mounted tow hook. Or perhaps a receiver hitch mounted tow hook. My preference, if you have a stock bumper or don't have the type of bumper that has any recovery points, is to attach the tow hooks to the frame as shown below. Be sure to use only bolts and nuts rated at least Grade 5 with Grade 8 being preferrable.

Also make sure to not drill through both sides of the frame so the nut is on the other side of the frame. Doing it that way will start collapsing the frame inward in an ever-repeating sequence of the frame bending inward loosening the bolts, retightening the bolts which causes the frame to collapse inward even more. Instead, the bolts only pass through the one side of the frame with the nuts and washers inside the frame. The nuts and washers are easily inserted up through the bottom of the frame through an oval access hole already present. Only one hole needs to be drilled, the second hole is already present.

The bolts in the below photo with the 6 marks on the bolt head are Grade 8. Bolts with 3 marks are Grade 5.

mjfitzner 09-25-2010 12:39 PM

Oh holy crap I didn't even realize that. Thanks Jerry and sorry about being so naive. I will definitely remove those immediately. Looks like it's time for me to find a rear recovery bumper with d-ring points.

XtrmTJ 09-25-2010 12:54 PM

Like these ! :wavey:
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/t.../Eugene027.jpg

Jerry Bransford 09-25-2010 12:57 PM

Nice, no frigging beautiful (!), Jeep but I worry about the health of that rear axle running those tires. What axle is that?

ParaCAD 10-01-2010 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford (Post 788055)
:eek: That above top-mounted tow hook should be removed immediately, it is in NO way strong enough to be used for a serious recovery. The OE (factory) bumper is only made from sheet metal and that top mounted tow hook would just be ripped out of the sheet metal if used for a serious recovery. :eek: A top mounted tow hook only works on the front bumper because the bolts drop down into the frame below that the front bumper is mounted over. The frame does not extend into the rear bumper however.

Short of having a rear bumper that was specifically designed for shackle (D-ring) attach points which means they are through-welded on at least 3/16" steel, you have to go with a frame mounted tow hook. Or perhaps a receiver hitch mounted tow hook. My preference, if you have a stock bumper or don't have the type of bumper that has any recovery points, is to attach the tow hooks to the frame as shown below. Be sure to use only bolts and nuts rated at least Grade 5 with Grade 8 being preferrable.

Also make sure to not drill through both sides of the frame so the nut is on the other side of the frame. Doing it that way will start collapsing the frame inward in an ever-repeating sequence of the frame bending inward loosening the bolts, retightening the bolts which causes the frame to collapse inward even more. Instead, the bolts only pass through the one side of the frame with the nuts and washers inside the frame. The nuts and washers are easily inserted up through the bottom of the frame through an oval access hole already present. Only one hole needs to be drilled, the second hole is already present.

The bolts in the below photo with the 6 marks on the bolt head are Grade 8. Bolts with 3 marks are Grade 5.

Thanks for that info Jerry!

Undefinedskillz 10-01-2010 12:46 PM

I have a crane hook on mine. :)

Jerry Bransford 10-01-2010 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Undefinedskillz (Post 797240)
I have a crane hook on mine. :)

On your what?

mrcarcrazy 10-01-2010 12:56 PM

I just bought a hook that goes in the receiver hitch. Need a hitch pin still.

ParaCAD 10-01-2010 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AtcoTrailsINC (Post 787353)
Forgot, i know some Tj's came stock with a rear tow hook but i cant find that anywhere!!! so frustrating.

this guy may still have his forsale - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f14/big...ors-63312.html

Undefinedskillz 10-01-2010 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
On your what?

It's shackled onto a receiver hitch with no ball.

NickM 10-01-2010 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford (Post 788088)
Nice, no frigging beautiful (!), Jeep but I worry about the health of that rear axle running those tires. What axle is that?

Looks like a Ford 9" with some good trussing on the housing to me .

Nick

Jerry Bransford 10-01-2010 01:25 PM

That'd be the tiniest 9" I have ever seen then. Between its skinny-appearing axle tubes and the pumpkin that looks pretty small, I'd be surprised if it really is a Ford 9". I've been surprised before though. Perhaps the photo is just misleading me, I dunno. :)

bobjenkins 10-01-2010 01:30 PM

Ive no recovery points on the rear either. Ive thought of putting a shackle on the tow hitch that I have. The max for that hitch is 3500 lbs towing. I figured it is because its attached to the frame, but thougth Id ask. is that good enough for recovery?

jeepjones 10-01-2010 01:33 PM

It is indeed a 9" rear end. It looks small because the tires are so big or maybe it came out of a Crown Victoria instead of a truck.

jeepjones 10-01-2010 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobjenkins (Post 797282)
Ive no recovery points on the rear either. Ive thought of putting a shackle on the tow hitch that I have. The max for that hitch is 3500 lbs towing. I figured it is because its attached to the frame, but thougth Id ask. is that good enough for recovery?

I wouldn't use a hitch mounted hook, I have hooks on my frame rails like in the pic and haven't had any issues with them at all. Mine aren't at such a steep angle though, I didn't want too much force being put on just the hooks so I straightened them out a bit and removed sheet metal from the bumper to avoid damaging straps.

mrcarcrazy 10-01-2010 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeepjones (Post 797292)
I wouldn't use a hitch mounted hook, I have hooks on my frame rails like in the pic and haven't had any issues with them at all. Mine aren't at such a steep angle though, I didn't want too much force being put on just the hooks so I straightened them out a bit and removed sheet metal from the bumper to avoid damaging straps.

interesting logic. you have no problem yanking on one frame rail (2 bolts). but think yanking on both frame rails (4 bolts) is a bad idea? Feel free to elaborate.

jeepjones 07-11-2011 12:40 PM

Have you ever seen a hitch pin shear and the slide-in hitch come through a windsheild and take off the drivers head? Also, with repeated use the hole which the pin goes through will become wallowed out over time. As well as the fact putting a hitch on will lower the clearance available at the rear of the jeep and will actually cause you to get stuck. When that happens good luck putting in the hook receiver.

jp'rs_peep'rs 07-11-2011 10:35 PM

The image of the rear bumper would be OK if you were to have a plate to tie into the frame. Sadly that not being the case they will eventually collapsed the bumper. The cross bar is about 1/8 the inch sheet steel and the bumper likewise is thin. With that said the whole setup is tied at the bottom edge to the frame with large bolts.
You would be wise to strengthen them. But as you stated you'll be removing them.

C.

s3nt3nc3d 07-12-2011 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjfitzner (Post 788063)
Oh holy crap I didn't even realize that. Thanks Jerry and sorry about being so naive. I will definitely remove those immediately. Looks like it's time for me to find a rear recovery bumper with d-ring points.

For a really basic bumper...check out the Smittybilt and ProComp rear bumpers. They're nothing special...but they have a rear hitch receiver (NOT tow-rated) and d-rings and cost around $125-150. I've got the ProComp one...it's pretty decent quality for the money and even included the D-rings.


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