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-   -   Clutch-type locker and regear (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/clutch-type-locker-and-regear-65890.html)

pyrobling 10-19-2010 07:04 PM

Clutch-type locker and regear
 
So this is popping my forum cherry....

Got my first Jeep after living vicariously through my cousin for 10 years and 4 Jeeps.

Got a 2000 2.5L 5-spd with 3" lift and 31 10.5s. Lucked out on the deal but already need to start "improving" it. I need to regear and have a quote for $1000 all parts labor and warranty which seems to be about average for the San Diego area...especially since I don't have any mechanic friends here since new to the Base and state.

Thinking 4.1 or 4.33 (recommened by buddy) for the regear...but i'm open to ideas and suggestions. Going to upgrade to 33s since tread is wearing down on the 31s...doubt I'm going to go bigger...but in 3 years when back in Oregon it's a possiblity. Any suggestions if I'm factory now? Also, buddy that recommended 4.33 also was super enthusiastic about me getting a CLUTCH-TYPE LOCKER when I do the regear. Wanted to get opinions and suggestions/recommendations from you pros.

Thanks a bunch,
MAC

TexasSam 10-19-2010 07:16 PM

Your 2000 2.5 should already have 4.11 gearing in it. I think the 4.88 gear is what everyone goes to for the 4 banger . The 4.33 gears won't be alot of help when going from 4.11s .

Jerry Bransford 10-19-2010 07:24 PM

The only clutch-based locker I'm aware of is the ECTED which not many experienced Jeepers or builders recommend. Being clutch-based, it is known to slip on tough obstacles. Not to mention its clutch pack WILL eventually wear out and need to be replaced which can only be done at the factory.

You're much better off with a standard, not a clutch-based, locker.

And with your 2.5L engine, your rear axle is a Dana 35c which is not strong enough for a locker. Due to that fact, you should install your first locker into the front Dana 30 axle. NO, you will have no steering problems with a front-mounted locker when you're in 2wd. A front locker only engages hard enough to notice when you're in 4x4. So on the street, a front locker like an Aussie, Lockright, or No-Slip, does not affect the steering at all. :)

P.S. I'm pretty close to SD so if you need to talk with someone, PM me.

pyrobling 10-19-2010 07:48 PM

Thanks Jerry. I sent you an email before asking about exhaust shops. Don't worry I hopped on the fact that you are so close.

I must have read something wrong on here. I thought stock was 3.73 not 4.11? I should go look at it, where do I need to look again? 4.88 should cover me fine? What if I eventually decide to step up and go to 35s or just go straight to that?

Jerry- Any suggestions for shops in the area ( a drive is ok with me ) for the regear or stick with the 1k quote I got? Warranty will last rest of time I am stationed here and I have 3 great Jeep mechanics back in Oregon for down the road.

Jerry Bransford 10-19-2010 07:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)
$1K to regear both axles with all the parts included? I just noticed that price which is a SMOKIN' deal in SD, where'd you find that? Maybe business is down so the shops are getting more agressive because the best price I ever saw was nearly $1100 which I had to push hard for.

4.11 should be what is in your axles with your 2.5L engine. 3.73 is what is more common with the 4.0L engine. 35" tires are a little too big for the 2.5L engine since the lowest ratio you can go to is 4.88 which is the appropriate ratio for 33" tires. Plus your rear Dana 35c axle isn't up to being wheeled with 35" tires.

You can find your axle ratio embossed into the small steel tag bolted to the 9 o'clock position of your differential cover. The lower photo shows that axle has the 3.73 ratio, circled in red. :)

pyrobling 10-19-2010 08:03 PM

Great thanks. Guy on my ship....his roomate is a Jeep NUT and has an awesome hookup apparently in the area. He said he could get it for 900 but I have to drive to LA, or the 1000 for around here and that would be warrantied. If I can i'll pass the hook up along. He said the mechanic is great priced on all Jeep stuff and work. And yes the 1000 is total for both axles. Looks like I am going 4.88. If I don't put on 33s til next summer or fall is 4.88 gonna be fine with my 31s? Just punchier when I touch the gas right?

Green Bay TJ 10-23-2010 11:23 AM

Do you KNOW what your gearing is? My jeep diff cover has so much rust that I asked the dealer to look up the vin for the gearing. We both thought I had 3.73 (2000 TJ Sahara, 4.0L), but turns out to be 3.07.:banghead::banghead: D30 front, D35C rear. What idiot ordered this jeep in 1999? - that would have been me - should have gotten the D44 option instead of ABS. So if I decide to go to 33" I'll bite the bullet and get alloy axles (dealer recommends Yukon over Superior 35), new diff carrier for 30 spline, 4.10 gears. Will cost $3K. May spend another $1K and get trutracs installed front and rear. Will be a tough sell to the wife, may just keep the 31s I have with the rear traclok. Or just drive it until it breaks and make the switch then.

Jerry Bransford 10-23-2010 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Green Bay TJ (Post 836378)
So if I decide to go to 33" I'll bite the bullet and get alloy axles (dealer recommends Yukon over Superior 35)

Bad recommendation, you absolutely cannot do better than Superior Axle's Super 35 kit. Yukon's axle shafts are imported from India and I wouldn't touch a Yukon product with a 10' pole. Superior Axle has, by far, the best reputation out there of any aftermarket axle shaft manufacturer.


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