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-   -   35 tires too heavy for tailgate, regearing really needed? (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/35-tires-too-heavy-for-tailgate-regearing-really-needed-68820.html)

s1234 11-13-2010 06:53 PM

35 tires too heavy for tailgate, regearing really needed?
 
Im thinking of going to 35s from my stock 32 tires. What are you doing to carry your spare tire (did you buy an aftermarket spare carrier everyone says the 35 tire is too heavy to mount on the tailgate and that you will have tailgate problems later)?

Also I just drove a stock JK Sport with 3.73 gearing and 35's at a local dealership that had no regearing. Everything seemed fine on both the highway and slower traffic. Why is everyone saying you have to regear?

Thanks!

s1234 11-13-2010 06:55 PM

FYI - I spoke to a few folks on the phone about this from the Forum (many thanks), just looking for a few more opinions from people who have this situation.

Boosta 11-13-2010 06:58 PM

Depends on how you drive. I test drove a stock JKU then a stock geared JKU with 35's. Going uphill was horrid on the JKU with 35's. All comments point to re-gear once you go to 35's.

orangecrush4u 11-13-2010 07:02 PM

You need a swing arm tire carrier....

Jetmech1 11-13-2010 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1234 (Post 874526)
Im thinking of going to 35s from my stock 32 tires. What are you doing to carry your spare tire (did you buy an aftermarket spare carrier everyone says the 35 tire is too heavy to mount on the tailgate and that you will have tailgate problems later)?

Also I just drove a stock JK Sport with 3.73 gearing and 35's at a local dealership that had no regearing. Everything seemed fine on both the highway and slower traffic. Why is everyone saying you have to regear?

Thanks!

My tailgate still looks fine. No problems. I can think of better ways to spend 800-1500 bucks for a rear tire carrier bumper. If you're ok with the power of your Jk, no need to re-gear. It's not a dragster. My 07 has stock gearing (4.10) and has plenty of power.

Heavy D 11-13-2010 11:40 PM

If you want to go with 35"s, you should really consider regearing for the power issue. The real concern is the axle/differential. The way that the Dana 35 is set up, the additional forces placed on it by the larger tires can bust the axle splines, especially when rock hopping. You may want to consider going to a Dana 44 to prevent this.

schnutzy 11-13-2010 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Heavy D (Post 875086)
If you want to go with 35"s, you should really consider regearing for the power issue. The real concern is the axle/differential. The way that the Dana 35 is set up, the additional forces placed on it by the larger tires can bust the axle splines, especially when rock hopping. You may want to consider going to a Dana 44 to prevent this.

while this is true with a TJ or YJ, it is not with the JK. mainly because the JK does not come with a D35. ALL JKs come with a D44 rear.

ESP 11-13-2010 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by schnutzy (Post 875090)
while this is true with a TJ or YJ, it is not with the JK. mainly because the JK does not come with a D35. ALL JKs come with a D44 rear.

beat me too it.

Ageless Stranger 11-14-2010 12:06 AM

I thought a few of the '07 models slipped out with D35s in them??? I know all new production models have the D44. :cool:

distortedtj 11-14-2010 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ageless Stranger (Post 875107)
I thought a few of the '07 models slipped out with D35s in them??? I know all new production models have the D44. :cool:

Nope....the D35 is too narrow for the JK. ;)

The front and rear Dana's in the JK's are referred to ask "next generation" Dana 30 and D44's. They are completely different axle and wider.

jk'n 11-14-2010 03:17 AM

For rock crawling you might consider lower gearing. I have the 4.1s and with stock tires it crawls really well...translate: slow. With 35s I would have to regear for the same effect. Not rock crawling? No need for the regear. Power at the low end will be lacking though with 35s. You will notice it a bit on the highway. Not towing with it? Then that may not matter so much. Evin if towing with it, you may just have to shift down a gear to get back into the power band.

daggo66 11-14-2010 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ageless Stranger (Post 875107)
I thought a few of the '07 models slipped out with D35s in them??? I know all new production models have the D44. :cool:

There was rumor of that, but no one has been able to come up with one.

Heavy D 11-14-2010 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by schnutzy (Post 875090)
while this is true with a TJ or YJ, it is not with the JK. mainly because the JK does not come with a D35. ALL JKs come with a D44 rear.

I didn't know that. Learn something new every day. I don't actually own a jeep YET. I have been shopping for one and was debating between a TJ and a JK. I have definitely been leaning towards the JK but I think this may have pushed it over the line for me.

Dean Gaucher 11-14-2010 09:59 AM

I have a 2010 sport,have 35's,3.73 gear [no problems],rear tire relocation [extension] and tail gate reenforcement kit from Quadratec,cost me 80 bucks total.The spare and gate doesnt even budge. And I know,it all depends on your use of the vehicle.mine is mostly street driven,maybe 10% trail. Thanks

Lyman21 11-14-2010 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean Gaucher (Post 875457)
I have a 2010 sport,have 35's,3.73 gear [no problems],rear tire relocation [extension] and tail gate reenforcement kit from Quadratec,cost me 80 bucks total.The spare and gate doesnt even budge. And I know,it all depends on your use of the vehicle.mine is mostly street driven,maybe 10% trail. Thanks

How long have you been running this set up??

Stoneaxe 11-14-2010 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s1234 (Post 874530)
FYI - I spoke to a few folks on the phone about this from the Forum (many thanks), just looking for a few more opinions from people who have this situation.

You will have very poor torque with 35's and stock gearing. Merge, passing, uphill driving will all be a thing of the past. You'll be shocked when you eventually do get regeared and you'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner. You'll be much happier with 5:13's at least with an auto trans.

You won't need to worry about "stripping" the splines off the gearing, the v6 engines don't produce enough horsepower to make that even a remote concern.

I have the extended stops on the stock tire carrier for my tire. Eventually I'll get a tire carrier bumper. But for now, I had to choose between having a matching spare or not. I chose the spare.

Dean Gaucher 11-14-2010 06:13 PM

Ive had the jeep for about a month...i know its not the preferred set-up,but its what i have at the moment...[not enough cash for new gearing lol]....and wont 5:13s kill me on the freeway? im new to this,so bear with me...thanks

thaduke2003 11-14-2010 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jetmech1 (Post 874705)
My tailgate still looks fine. No problems. I can think of better ways to spend 800-1500 bucks for a rear tire carrier bumper. If you're ok with the power of your Jk, no need to re-gear. It's not a dragster. My 07 has stock gearing (4.10) and has plenty of power.

As for this, I have to agree to disagree. The stock tailgate WILL fail at some point, especially if you wheel, or live in an area with bumpy roads. According to my Mopar rep, they're designed to take MAX 75 lbs. Most 35" tires weigh 60 lbs. on their own. At some point, you'll hit a bump, and something will fail. Is it fine for now? Maybe. But putting too much force/weight on anything is never a good idea. And you may not know it's failed until you hit a bump on the highway, and your spare imbeds itself in somebody's windshield. NOT something I'd EVER say is OK.

As for gearing, you have a Rubicon. The 4.10 gears are WORLDS apart from the X/Sahara 3.21's or 3.73's. While the numbers seem to be minorly different, in terms of physics, the numbers are huge, especially in the lower gears. As for being under-geared, you're putting a huge extra strain on your engine, transmission, clutch (if manual), and the rest of your driveline. There's a reason you choke down fuel when under-geared. Short-term, it only hurts your wallet via fuel bills. Long-term, plan on rebuilding the driveline MUCH sooner. That'll hurt a WHOLE lot more than re-gearing- Mark W.

TUSRoper 11-16-2010 05:44 AM

Hi everyone, new member and I already can't stop reading all of the great Q & A's. I have a 2010 JKU Sahara and I have put 35's on it. No regearing (yet?). What cost is associated with regearing to 5:13's? What RPM at highway speeds if I do?

My JKU has the Next Gen Dana 44 rear and Dana 30 front axle. For the 90% road and 10% off road (no rock crawling) am I going to see drivetrain issues in the future. Thanks everyone - GREAT Forum!!!!!

Hilldweller 11-16-2010 05:52 AM

D30 front axle with 35s. Not a bad idea to sleeve and gusset the 30 and even a 44 front.

http://www.project-jk.com/gallery2/m...2_itemId=35942


The early '07s did have D35 rears; I've only seen one though.

arrowhead 11-16-2010 06:26 AM

The gal who lives next door (my daughter) just bought a Shara Unlimited. It was immediately lifted and 35s installed. Auto and 3.73 gears. It doesn't like hills or a stiff headwind at all. They are trying to decide between a 4.10 or 4.88 regear since the gas mileage also dropped like a rock.

The tailgate will fail hauling a 35" tire around. How quickly depends on how rough the roads you drive are. I bought her stock wheels and tires and the tailgate is loaded with the 32" on it.

daggo66 11-16-2010 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thaduke2003 (Post 876255)
As for this, I have to agree to disagree. The stock tailgate WILL fail at some point, especially if you wheel, or live in an area with bumpy roads. According to my Mopar rep, they're designed to take MAX 75 lbs. Most 35" tires weigh 60 lbs. on their own.


According to my owner's manual:

NOTE:
If you have added aftermarket accessories to the
spare tire mounted carrier, it cannot exceed a gross
weight of 50 lbs (23 kg) including the weight of the spare

tire.

thaduke2003 11-16-2010 09:37 AM

^ Exactly. In engineering, there's always a 25-50% extra over-engineering standard built into any contraption/design.
It's amazing what you can learn simply by reading the owner's manual :) Mark W.

thaduke2003 11-16-2010 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hilldweller (Post 878774)
D30 front axle with 35s. Not a bad idea to sleeve and gusset the 30 and even a 44 front.

http://www.project-jk.com/gallery2/m...2_itemId=35942


The early '07s did have D35 rears; I've only seen one though.

I can see your shaft! :bottom: Mark W.

jk'n 11-16-2010 01:02 PM

:zap:

Jetmech1 11-16-2010 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thaduke2003 (Post 876255)
As for this, I have to agree to disagree. The stock tailgate WILL fail at some point, especially if you wheel, or live in an area with bumpy roads. According to my Mopar rep, they're designed to take MAX 75 lbs. Most 35" tires weigh 60 lbs. on their own. At some point, you'll hit a bump, and something will fail. Is it fine for now? Maybe. But putting too much force/weight on anything is never a good idea. And you may not know it's failed until you hit a bump on the highway, and your spare imbeds itself in somebody's windshield. NOT something I'd EVER say is OK.

As for gearing, you have a Rubicon. The 4.10 gears are WORLDS apart from the X/Sahara 3.21's or 3.73's. While the numbers seem to be minorly different, in terms of physics, the numbers are huge, especially in the lower gears. As for being under-geared, you're putting a huge extra strain on your engine, transmission, clutch (if manual), and the rest of your driveline. There's a reason you choke down fuel when under-geared. Short-term, it only hurts your wallet via fuel bills. Long-term, plan on rebuilding the driveline MUCH sooner. That'll hurt a WHOLE lot more than re-gearing- Mark W.

I have a 2007 Sahara Unlimited (not a Rubicon). It has the 4.10 ratio Trac-Lok rear end that was ordered as an option ($295). I just recommend keeping a watch on the rear spare mount, and if it makes you feel better, make a tether and put on the mount and secure it to the tailgate through an existing hole. I also agree it all depends on the terrain you're driving on as for the need for a rear tire carrier.

thaduke2003 11-16-2010 07:13 PM

^ Physics is physics, regardless of terrain. Even taking into account over-engineering, at some point, you must understand that going 50% over what something is designed to take is a BAD idea, regardless of clever ideas and such. Metal shears, regardless of terrain. Yes, bouncing around off-road WILL take a toll much faster than on-road, but any over-stressed component WILL fail in time- better not to take the chance. $700 for a tire carrier is a WHOLE LOT cheaper than possibly hurting or killing someone due to negligence- Mark W.

scbesse 11-16-2010 08:02 PM

I have had a 35 on my tailgate for 2 years. Hinges on gate are wallowing out. You need a carrier for sure. Mine is coming in a couple weeks
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...00408-1528.jpg

As for gears...... REGEAR, I am running Stock 3.73 in an Auto but not for long.......

Take the advice from most and do it proper before something breaks.

DANIMAL 11-16-2010 08:21 PM

What about using one of these?
http://www.4wd.com/aux_incl/images.a...No=H%2fW&w=380
Tailgate Tire Carrier by Hanson Offroad and Other Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories by 4 Wheel Drive Hardware-RH1

I am thinking of going with something like this when I upgrade to 35s. Anyone have any experience with this? It is less cost than a new bumper with a tire carrier.

thaduke2003 11-16-2010 08:24 PM

Still putting the weight and strain of the spare on the stock hinges. That's where about 2/3 of them break. Some crumple right in the middle, which a carrier like that MIGHT help, but I doubt it. Also, that looks like it holds the spare out a bit further than the stocker, which would only make things worse- Mark W.


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