Custom Highhood and 3.5" Fender Raise
alright guys and gals ... here is a short (long) writeup on my custom highhood and 3.5" fender raise .... why, you ask?
to get the obvious questions out of the way, here is the final build sheet (always changing though)
D60 front with 4Ds, 538s, chromos, CTMs, lockouts, 8x6.5, OX locker
D60 rear, chromos, 538s, spool or OX locker, disc brakes
custom long arm 4 link rear
custom long arm 3 link w/ panhard front
completely flat skid
16" coilovers rear
14" coilovers front
front stretch 4"
rear stretch 6" rear dovetail
so now that that is out of the way, on to the good stuff ....
here is a picture representing the stock location of fenders and hood line (red)
here is my line (green)
i will say this first: i used fenders off of jeeps that had been hit HARD in the front end, thus my fenders are warped (free from the JunkYard) and the cuts are not straight (to allow for this warpage). i started with trash fenders and a trash hood because honestly, this isnt a showroom jeep. i am going to wheel the holy hell out of this jeep and roll it as often as possible. i dont like nice things and i dont need stuff to be perfect. i guarentee you that if you use my measurments and follow my instructions exactly, your stuff will look worse than mine and wont fit for sh!t. i spent about 2 hours just fitting, cutting, fitting, and cutting the fenders to get them to line up somewhat acceptable. total i have about 15 hours into this (a lot of that was beating the hood and fenders with a rubber mallet to get them almost useable ... maybe 5 hours of that total 15) .... also know that you cannot use the front most mounting flang on the fenders (mounts into the side of the grill) as it is radiused to the grill for its particular location. using it would reaquire alot of work that i didnt need to do since i was using no outer fender to begin with. therefore, that is not covered in this EDU. Furthermore, cutting the hood this way cuts the latch catch out of the hood ... i decided to use some Honda Type Riceer hood pins to secure my hood ... you can use duct tape or bungee cords, what ever floats your boat.
so onto it:
the first thing you are going to want to do is remove your hood and fenders from the jeep. it really isnt that hard. the hood is 6 bolts and a few connections. fenders are about 15 bolts each and electrical connections. i had the jeep stripped in about an hour (of course, this was not the first tiem i have stripped a jeep). it should look something like this when you are done ....
as you can see, i also did the cowl induction intake mod which can be had here on JeepsUnlimited.com .... http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...cowl+induction
it is hard to say whether or not this is mod required to lift your fenders as the stock air box might hit your hood when you raise it. expect to have to relocate the box at the very least.
the first thing we get to destroy is the hood. i chose to, more or less, follow the body like on the bottom of the hood (it is 3" tall ... i went 0.25" above it in the rear and 0.75" above it in the front .... this is not necessary as you can follow the line for a 3" raise .... read the fender mounting section to know why i did it). i did all of this with a 4.5" angle grinder and cutoff wheel ( they give me more control than a swazall ).
this is the body line on the hood i followed ... roughly:
hood after cut: (note: i did not make this particular cut ... i had a friend do it as i was working on something else at the moment (probably drinking a beer) ... he misunderstood and went about .75 below the line to .25 above it ... stupid freshmen)
now we get to chop up the fenders!!!! i have highlighted the mandatory fender trimmings in red. in addition, the extra i cut out is highlighted in green (i did all of the 'green' cutting after the fenders were on the jeep!!!!) the oblong cut is required to clear the AC lines and the tranny cooler lines .... the Driver fender needs extra cut out of the back (triangle on the rear of the fender) to clear the brake lines.
now onto the grill modifications.... you need to cut out a portion of the ring that surrounds the headlight cutout .... by 'a portion' i mean the majority of it. cut it off and grind it flat with the back of the grill ... outlined in green (you can see where i drilled and installed one of my final mounting rivets just below the end of the green line ... good place to mount the rivet / bolt / stick / tape / spit / glue / etc ... )
the next step is deciding how you want to attach the fenders to the body/grill. i chose to use steel rivets. to prepare for this, drill as many holes as you need into all of the mounting flanges of the fender. i put 4 in the rearward mounting flange(body flange) and 3 in the front (grill ) flange. line up the fender where you want it and mark your holes on the back of the grill and on the body. measure measure measure measure measure measure measure measure measure then drill. [Aside: i did not mount the fenders level. the front sits higher than the rear because i am moving the axle forward and will need all of the clearence i can get to fit the 40" tires on 1.5" of lift. hence the 3.5" fender raise and not 3".
next you need to modify the battery trays, both passenger and driver (i left the driver side tray out completely). on the passenger battery tray, if it is not modified, the lower mounting will interfere with the blower motor. the fix? you guessed it. cut it off like so ...
[note: this is the one off of the junkyard fender ... it was bent past use so i reused my old one)
after it is cut, bolt it back onto the fender in its stock location.
now that all of the modifications are done, the fun begins. by 'fun' of course, i mean that part that makes you want to kill everything that moves. mount up your fenders and look for everything that needs to be cut for clearence ... take it off and cut it. fit it up. mark it. take it off. cut it. repeat this tedious step until you want to kill soemthing. take a break and drink a case of beer. get back to it until you get a fit you like.
now mount up the fender for the last time, rivet it, silicone it, spit on it, whatever works for you .... plug in all of your electrical connections. the underhood fuse box will fit in its stock location, as will the battery with a custom holddown. the EVAP canister got stuffed in the space where the driver side tray would be. the windshield wiper bottle isnt mounted yet, and wont be ... by the time this is finished, it will be trail only. so that is up to you. for the cut sections of the hood and fenders, i capped them with door edge molding that contained glue .... works quite well and has a good hold after the 48 hour time it takes for the glue to set
if you did chop your fenders like i did mine, then you need to mount and wire blinkers and side marker lamps into the grill and hood ....
DISCLAIMER: check your local laws before doing any of this!!!!! fender laws are strict in some places (TN doesnt really have them). this really does expose your front tires.
im sure i omitted or fogot a lot of info .... so post up if you have a question ....
these are the finished pics of my fender raise and highhood ....
old body lines are highlighted in green
i hope this helps at least some people. i had never seen this done so i though it would experiment with it and let others know what i had done .... if it helps, that is what i was going for. if it doesnt help, im sorry ... let me know what needs to be done to amke it better. if you like it, fantastic. if you dont like it .... well .... F4wk you.
Looks good. Keep us posted on the finished product. Alot of good info you provided. Thanks.
Looks like you definitely accomplished your goal here. Just have one question. Are you going to do anything to help support the grill/radiator?
there will be a rad hoop installed above the grill (1/8 gap between them maximum). the grill will be tied into that eventually, but for the most part, i dont see the need. the support bars under the hood are still there and the grill is still mounted to the fenders (rivets instead of bolts)
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