super easy, you'll spend more time with the rim and jack than you will with the pads themselves. i did mine in the snow, in about 35 minutes
01-06-2011 12:28 AM
Shouldn't you have your rotors turned when ever you have a brake job, or was that a requirement with drums?
01-06-2011 01:04 AM
if they look worn yes if they are in good shape then no
01-06-2011 01:18 AM
I would recommend hitting them with a scuff pad and some brake clean just to get rid of the glaze even if the rotors are ing good shape. Just makes them work better. And lube the parking brake hardware while you are in there or it might do like mine did and seize.
01-06-2011 02:12 AM
Ive always wondered how a mechanical parking brake works with a rotor and pad? I guess i'll find out when I have to do my rear brake pads but that won't be for a while because I just got my 11 rubi two weeks ago.
01-06-2011 07:58 PM
Very informative link, Daggo66. As far as the pics go. I just use a trick my grandfather taught me and I don't have to bleed the brakes, at all.
If you monitor your brake wear, on a regular basis, you should never have to add fluid. The cap is designed to adjust to to the fluid levels in the brake lines, with normal wear and tear. Ever had to push that rubber liner back into the cap? If you have to add fluid, you probably have a leak.
The trick? When you start to disassemble the brake caliper, the shoes will probably be lodged against the discs. With the Master Cylinder cap ON, take a large screwdriver (or punch) and gently push the the shoe/caliper in. Do not wedge the screwdriver between the disc and pad. That will score your rotor. Disassemble as shown in the link.
Using the old brake pad and a C-clamp (I use a 6 inch normally, but one car took an 8 inch), compress the cylinders until they clear the new pads and rotor. Reassemble as shown.
When done, start the Jeep and gently depress the brake pedal a few times. You'll feel the pressure build up. Drop it off the stands and drive it slowly around the block. Hit the brakes a few times. Check levels and add if needed (probably not). Also check each brake line for fluid leaks. Shouldn't be any, but you never know with reassembly.
Since you didn't really open the system, there should be no air in the system. So, you don't have to bleed the system. I've done this on over 30 vehicles and never had a problem. Except for the one that blew out when I used the clamp. After the rebuild, I used the traditional bleeding sequence.