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-   -   What brand of clutch for a replacement (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/what-brand-of-clutch-for-a-replacement-77398.html)

AsylumTJ 01-25-2011 04:05 PM

What brand of clutch for a replacement
 
My clutch has finally bit the dust, took 143,XXX miles so i'm not to bent about it. The problem I have been having is trying to find a good, long lasting clutch. I have used centerforce for a previous car i had, but the difference is that red lined at 10 grand, the jeep isn't even close to that. I know they are geared more to towards higher RPM applications, So what I'm trying to say is what should i go with. I do some moderate offroading, but it is also a daily driver. The ones i know are LuK, ACT, Centerforce, or just an OE replacement. Let me know what you guys prefer and if possible the pro's and con's of the brand. In advance thanks for the help!

pokey 01-25-2011 04:09 PM

Luk is OEM from what I've read here, and highly recommended

AsylumTJ 01-25-2011 04:47 PM

*bump*

Marsmonkey12 01-25-2011 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pokey
Luk is OEM from what I've read here, and highly recommended

X2 But most of my knowledge is based off this site as well.

AsylumTJ 01-25-2011 06:05 PM

So, i just decided to go with a Luk replacement clutch kit. With that being all I see on here i would presume it was the best to go with

Mike_3303 01-25-2011 06:25 PM

I used the luk pro gold kit with no problems what so ever. Good quality clutch kit. Did you buy a new slave and master cylinder assembly as well? Its not completly necessary, but if you're tearing everything apart then mine as well replace it and be done. You wont have any problems for quite a while. I got the assembly at rockauto.com for around $120. Best of luck!

TexasT 01-25-2011 10:01 PM

One interesting note...the manual says not to resurface the flywheel. I just got a Luk clutch and I believe I found the last luk flywheel on the planet. Be putting it in soon and taking out a piece of junk ACDelco clutch that I put in last year. Good luck.

Mike_3303 01-26-2011 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasT (Post 1014475)
One interesting note...the manual says not to resurface the flywheel. I just got a Luk clutch and I believe I found the last luk flywheel on the planet. Be putting it in soon and taking out a piece of junk ACDelco clutch that I put in last year. Good luck.


Not to resurface the flywheel? Wonder why they heck they would think thats a good idea. When I had mine resurfaced they said it got heated up in places and was a little uneven. Emagine what that would do to your brand new clutch.

TexasT 01-26-2011 04:46 PM

There have been a bunch of threads on this and in one a few weeks ago they showed the factory service manual and that is where they stated the "don't resurface" statement. I'm replacing the flywheel this time.

Mike_3303 01-26-2011 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasT (Post 1016191)
There have been a bunch of threads on this and in one a few weeks ago they showed the factory service manual and that is where they stated the "don't resurface" statement. I'm replacing the flywheel this time.


good idea, at the least resurface it. It's probably about money for the company, they tell you not to resurface it so you'll mess up your new clutch and have to take it to the dealer.

Jerry Bransford 01-26-2011 08:21 PM

First, no, DO NOT RESURFACE THE FLYWHEEL. Really.

The Factory Service Manual specifically says not to resurface the flywheel. The TJ's flywheel has a special subtle dome shape that would be removed by machining or resurfacing it. Per the FSM, it should at the most only be lightly sanded if any glazing is present by nothing stronger than a mild sandpaper or emory cloth. Yes resurfacing the flywheel is a normal part of a clutch job for most vehicles, just not the TJ.

Not to mention that the flywheel seldom needs replacing. Replacing the flywheel is normally not needed and is definitely not a normal part of replacing the clutch.

Clutch brand-wise, Luk is pretty much the hands-down choice. Installed by the factory, the Luk OE clutch is easily capable of getting over 200K miles. I pulled mine at 166K miles out of concern and was surprised to find that it still had plenty of life left on it, and that's after it had been literally smoked many times while rock crawling.

You can get the Luk clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and pilot shaft as a kit for around $150 from Dial-A-Clutch - Your LuK Clutch Kit Specialist which is where I got mine from. They're about the cheapest around and they ship fast.

I wouldn't even consider a Centerforce clutch. They are way overpriced when compared to the Luk that is fully capable of lasting >200K miles for most people. Not to mention they were designed with high rpm/hp applications in mind, not exactly how our Jeeps are set up or driven. :)

Mike_3303 01-30-2011 09:17 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Hey Jerry, I had my flywheel resurfaced when I had to replace my clutch. I ended up losing one complete side of the clutch. It heat part of the flywheel, turned it a bluish color, and also cut a groove in it as well. I took it to the machine shop and told them to take as little off as possible. Is this going to hurt or damage my new clutch, and should I take it apart and just buy a new flywheel? Thanks for the help Jerry, I never knew there were flywheels you were not supposed to resurface.

rrich 01-30-2011 11:43 AM

The flywheel has a slight crown to it. The reason for it is it's much smoother and less prone to chatter. When the disc first contacts it, it touches the center, then as you let up on the pedal it smoothly contacts the rest of it.
When a machine shop grinds or mills it, they cannot duplicate that crown, they cut it flat.
It'll work, but won't feel as nice.
Normally you can just "scratch it up" again to help with the break-in with light Emory cloth.
If you let the clutch wear down to where it damages the surface too much, replacing the flywheel is recommended rather than grinding it flat.

Centerforce clutches are great - "IF" you are holding back lots of power. But for a Jeep it's not needed and may even be detrimental. The weights have a tendency to come loose.

Luke is highly recommended and reasonably priced.

Mike_3303 01-30-2011 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrich (Post 1023262)
The flywheel has a slight crown to it. The reason for it is it's much smoother and less prone to chatter. When the disc first contacts it, it touches the center, then as you let up on the pedal it smoothly contacts the rest of it.
When a machine shop grinds or mills it, they cannot duplicate that crown, they cut it flat.
It'll work, but won't feel as nice.
Normally you can just "scratch it up" again to help with the break-in with light Emory cloth.
If you let the clutch wear down to where it damages the surface too much, replacing the flywheel is recommended rather than grinding it flat.

Centerforce clutches are great - "IF" you are holding back lots of power. But for a Jeep it's not needed and may even be detrimental. The weights have a tendency to come loose.

Luke is highly recommended and reasonably priced.

Yeah i put the luk pro gold kit in mine along with a new slave and master cylinder assembly. It wasnt a gradual deteroation of the clutch, i got stuck up to the door frame in snow and tried to rock it back and forth to get it out and ended up in a big puff of smoke. Had it towed back to town, started it, put it in first and let out the clutch.....nothing, just idling in first gear lol It was the stock clutch with 86,000 on it, so I guess it was time to replace it.

Jerry Bransford 01-30-2011 01:34 PM

Did you notice any additional clutch noise after you installed the Pro Gold version of the Luk clutch Mike? I have read a couple times that the Pro Gold is really meant more for trucks and is noisier without lasting any longer than the regular Luk clutch.

Mike_3303 01-30-2011 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford (Post 1023404)
Did you notice any additional clutch noise after you installed the Pro Gold version of the Luk clutch Mike? I have read a couple times that the Pro Gold is really meant more for trucks and is noisier without lasting any longer than the regular Luk clutch.


It had a faint whistle to it when i first put it on, kind of like the sound of a spooling turbo. But after a few days it was gone, and havent noticed any other noise since then. I got the gold kit because it seems like you pay for what you get with most things, i just wanted to get good quality parts because I didnt want to tear all that apart again for a while. It grips a lot better than the stock clutch that was one there, but then again i didnt really know what kind of shape it was in before i blew it up :)

P3orion 05-18-2011 10:34 PM

Thanks for the information, plan on buying the Luk clutch kit, may rebuild the slave cylinder if i can find a kit.
Did anyone replace the rear main seal for the crankshaft at the same time?
Also plan on dropping the oil pan, changing the seal and replacing the oil pump just as preventative maintenance, any feedback?
Thank you,


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