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-   -   05 Wrangler over heating & radiator backing up (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/05-wrangler-over-heating-and-radiator-backing-up-80857.html)

jimbud 02-18-2011 11:16 AM

05 Wrangler over heating & radiator backing up
 
I'm thinking this is a water pump issue but wanted to get other opinions.

A month ago I flushed cooling system, changed coolant, burped system but found my inside heat barely worked. Figured I didn't burp properly. When trying to burp the line the radiator backs up slightly and over flows.

I figure might be bad thermostat so I replace it. Try to burp the system after replacing the thermostat and radiator backs up slowly as engine heats before sputtering coolant everywhere once it gets hot. Water doesn't appear to be circulating through it.

The weird part is my engine isn't over heating now and staying right at about 210 degrees but still have little to no inside heat. Heat hose feels to be empty with no water circulating.

Am I right in assuming the water pump went bad and needs replaced or could it be something else?

Jim

jimbud 02-18-2011 01:35 PM

Saw another thread with similar inside heat issues that was probably a clogged heating core. Wondering if that might be causing this issue as well? Hate like hell going through the effort and expense of changing the water pump if not 100% sure.

just4fun 02-18-2011 01:40 PM

Did u put the t-stat in the right

yoopone 02-18-2011 01:48 PM

No Heat
 
I would not think the problem would be in the heater core if the hose feeding it is cold. I would double check that thermostat also.

jimbud 02-18-2011 02:10 PM

Yup, I put the thermostat in spring first. Will check the heater hose in a bit.

Jerry Bransford 02-18-2011 02:29 PM

Since the engine is not overheating, I would not suspect a bad water pump. It kind of sounds like you got some gunk clogging up a water passage or perhaps the input heater hose.

jimbud 02-18-2011 03:38 PM

Just disconnected in and out heater hoses and flushed heater core. All clear. Shot a stream of water into intake hose connector at manifold (?) and it cycled through the outtake hose which was still connected at the heater core. So I now assume no clog in core. After connecting and getting up to running temp intake hose is barely warm, outtake is too hot to hold and coolish air blowing through the heater with heat on high. No engine over heating.

Jim

jimbud 02-18-2011 04:35 PM

Flushed out the radiator real good, refilled and let run up to operating temp with inside heat on. Top hose going to thermostat got nice but lower hose (new, replaced 2 mos ago) going to water pump still cool/warmish to the touch. Shouldn't it also be hot if everything circulating properly?

Heater intake hose still cool to touch while outtake is very hot. Turned inside heat to cold and intake hose heated up. Assuming this is normal. Going to reflush again just for giggles and while I wait to see any replies.

Jim

Jerry Bransford 02-18-2011 06:40 PM

Engine temperature coolant runs through the heater core in the TJ 100% of the time, there is no coolant valve like some heaters use. There is a flapper door that regulates the heat in the passenger compartment, not a coolant or heater valve. :)

jimbud 02-18-2011 08:25 PM

Good to know about the flapper door and it makes sense, thanks. Okay, when I flushed out the system I pulled the top radiator hose and put the garden hose to that. Water went all the way through the system and filled the radiator from the bottom up which tells me there's no blockage. Am now thinking that everything I've done narrows it down to the water pump but engine is not over heating even when driving. I'm really kind of at a loss here guys.

Jim

hookuspookus 02-19-2011 05:13 AM

when water gets hot it expands ,did you wait for the t-stat to open and close ?

jimbud 02-19-2011 06:13 AM

Yeah, t-stat was open when I filled it that way. Drove around the neighborhood afterward for about 10 minutes with no engine overheating. Gonna flush it out again this morning and see what happens. Read a thread where several people had similar issues and it took a few flushings to get the heat back. Got nothing to lose.

Jim

jimbud 02-27-2011 07:37 AM

After flushing several times was getting a LOT of sediment (and still no real heat) so figure a clog somewhere. Filled with cleaner and dist water and ran for a few days. Will be flushing again today and refilling with new coolant. Hoping this will be it.

jp2611 02-27-2011 08:05 AM

Just an opinion based on other threads/own experience somewhere between the block and where coolant goes to heater core and returns to block-you have a blockage.

Good luck!!!!

tylerdaly89 02-27-2011 08:39 AM

I had the same problem a few weeks ago. Ended up being that the radiator is a little clogged up. I did a flush, and it seems to be better, but not perfect. I have been told that since it is still slightly clogged, but operating temp is good I should be fine unless it starts overheating this summer. I live in FL so that will be in about a month. :rofl:

You might be able to flush it or it might jus tbe time for a new one if this is in fact your problem.

jimbud 02-28-2011 06:20 AM

Thanks for the opinions/suggestions. I attached one of the engine flushing kits and finally got all the gunk out and water running clear. Still no real heat though. ;-( Operating temp seems much lower than before too as well. Didn't have a chance to drive it around yesterday but will put about 50 highway miles on it today which should be a decent test.

Is there any definitive way to know if or where you have a clog?

Wdkirk01 02-28-2011 09:56 AM

I've seen people fill their heater core with a white vinegar and water solution and let it sit. The acid content of the vinegar will loosen debris in the core. But a cork in the bottow heater core outlet and fill it from the top opening. Let is sit for a little while (guessing a couple of hours) then flush from the top and back flush from the bottom.

Is the nipple on the thermostat housing that the heater core hose attaches to clogged? either that nipple of the one that attaches to the water pump could be clogged as well.

bheiser 02-28-2011 11:24 AM

It may also just be a defective thermostat.

jeepjones 02-28-2011 11:43 AM

So, have we learned our lesson here yet? Even though flushing the
rad,transmission,engine etc. sounds like a good idea it really isn't, just imagine what would happen if it was a large chunk of carbon released into the engine by using seafoam or another cleaning system pushed heavily by those minute lube type of places? Do you think mister $5hr has any idea what he is actually doing other than what he's been "trained" to do? Or what may actually happen, KABOOM! Half the time it's the gunk that allows an older system to keep functioning.

jimbud 03-01-2011 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wdkirk01 (Post 1087760)
Is the nipple on the thermostat housing that the heater core hose attaches to clogged? either that nipple of the one that attaches to the water pump could be clogged as well.

Thanks for the vinegar idea, I'll look more into that. Both in/out nipples are free of clogs, was one of the first things I checked when I started this all.

The thermostat was the first thing I replaced and I spent a little more for a fail-safe one so I doubt that is an issue. Always a small chance it's defective tho.

I drove it on the highway for about 50 miles yesterday with no issue and need to put on about 140 today. Will have to double check the intake heater hose to see how warm it gets.

Neil F. 03-01-2011 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bheiser (Post 1087924)
It may also just be a defective thermostat.

If the thermostat was bad, the engine would be overheating or not getting hot at all. He said it's running right at 210 which is normal.

Peepers 03-01-2011 07:27 AM

Just curious, but don't the fail-safe thermostats fail to the open position, and don't jeeps normally have a 195 degree thermostat, yet run at 210 anyways?

jimbud 03-02-2011 06:13 AM

Yeah it's my understanding the fai safe ones do fail to the open position. After putting on over 100miles on the interstate averaging speeds of 60-80mph all gauges looked fine. Temp sat just below 210 all day regarless of if heat was set on high or cool. Still no real heat though. ;-(

linuxjacques 03-02-2011 11:06 AM

I'm having the same problem.

I changed a bunch of cooling system parts (radiator, water pump, fan clutch, hoses, and thermostat).
I put in a fail-safe thermostat and everything was great for three days and then it stuck open.

I guess I'll change it again this weekend. :-\

hookuspookus 03-03-2011 07:25 AM

use a stant t-stat

hookuspookus 03-03-2011 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbud (Post 1064481)
I'm thinking this is a water pump issue but wanted to get other opinions.

A month ago I flushed cooling system, changed coolant, burped system but found my inside heat barely worked. Figured I didn't burp properly. When trying to burp the line the radiator backs up slightly and over flows.

I figure might be bad thermostat so I replace it. Try to burp the system after replacing the thermostat and radiator backs up slowly as engine heats before sputtering coolant everywhere once it gets hot. Water doesn't appear to be circulating through it.

The weird part is my engine isn't over heating now and staying right at about 210 degrees but still have little to no inside heat. Heat hose feels to be empty with no water circulating.

Am I right in assuming the water pump went bad and needs replaced or could it be something else?

Jim

if both the hose's are hot ,you have a problem your heater door under your dash

CapnDean 03-03-2011 08:02 PM

Lets figure the obvious> It was working fine til you flushed it: Hint #1, now it does not heat.

Jeep does not overheat on the highway: If it does not overheat on the highway under load.
A) The thermostat is good B) The water pump is good C) The radiator is not clogged (or at least not clogged up too bad to cool the motor).

Now...since you are not getting heat.... and assuming that in flushing the radiator you did not screw with your heater vent door.... You my friend have an obstruction SOMEWHERE in your cooling system that is blocking water flow through your heater core. The only other rational problem would be that the heater vent door chose this exact date to crap out on you.

jimbud 03-05-2011 06:46 AM

Makes perfect sense when you explain it like that.

Nailhead432 03-05-2011 03:50 PM

Grab both heater hoses after the engine warms up, then reach over and throttle it up approximately 2500 rpms and see if that doesn't get both hoses hot. I've seen air get trapped in heater cores before that is very stubborn to get out. If this is the case, park ur jeep on the most inclined hill u can without falling out of the jeep and carefully remove the radiator cap while the jeep is running so that u don't burn urself and just let it run for a while. U will need to monitor the coolant level and make sure that it doesn't get too low on u. The idea here is that air will travel to the highest point and the higher the radiator cap is in relation to the rest of the cooling system, the easier air will bleed itself out.
When u said that when u first started it, it warmed up and puked about a gallon of antifreeze out. This is typical when air is trapped. Air trying to escape ur cooling system will first displace the coolant that is in it's way, then u simply top it off. By opening up the cooling system again when u installed the thermostat, u reintroduced air back into the system. Good luck and keep us posted.

jimbud 03-06-2011 05:47 AM

I've since cleaned everything out, put in fresh 50/50 coolant and burped the air but the incline idea is worth a shot. Frankly this past week I've not bothered with it since the weather has warmed up and no need for heat. I'll have time this week to mess around again and will keep posted. Thanks for all the suggestions, it's appreciated.


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