Rear brakes ... not finding what im looking for
Been gone for awhile, but now I'm back and need to pick some brains as to what my next steps should be.
My issue is my rear brakes. I have found some helpful information here and there. But Im just not finding what my issue is.
Have a few going on here. Everything below is in reference to the rear brake system, drums.
1) Brakes squeal when the pedal is slightly pressed, but go away as more pressure is applied to the brake pedal.
2) Extreme uneven shoe wear, specifically at the top of the shoes. I am presuming the brake cylinder needs to be replaced on both sides (then bleed the system, right?)
3) New noise started past 2 weeks. When I put pressure on the brake pedal, and get past the squeling, and as I am coming to a stop, i hear this "thunk-a , thunk-a, thunk-a" coming from the rear end. It is a rotating sound, and you can almost feel it in the pedal.
When you come to a complete stop, the sound is gone, and does not resume when you take off.
I am completely stumped here. Well, partially at least. I am mostly stumped with the new "thunk-a, thunk-a" sound im getting. I am going to get some new shoes this weekend as they are needed for sure, but not sure what else to get to continue trouble shooting.
As always, thanks for any help that is offered.
I just helped a friend do a brake job on his 98 Dana 35 and this is after I did one on my 97 d35 last fall. It costs about $150 to completely replace the springs, cylinders, shoes, drums, and fluid with parts from NAPA. For that cost you would gain a lot of piece of mind by having an all new rear braking system. Otherwise you run the chance of piddling and picking at all of the individual components over an unknown length of time or spending who knows how much at a shop. I'm the kind I'd guy that would rather just replace if the price is reasonable than deal with the headache of diagnostic trial and error (I'm not a trained mechanic by the way).
Use diligence and care with the install and grease the pivot points of the shoes properly and you should be fine.
When the shoes wear at the top it indicates only the top part is doing the braking. The bottom is not adjusted out far enough (or wrong shoes.) === Improper adjustment.
The "thunking" is probably the lining has overheated and a piece fell off.
I'll bet you also have a low pedal - again ===== improper adjustment.
Loosen the E-brake cable before adjusting. I'll bet the cable was too tight when last adjusted.
When you take it apart you'll see it.
If you want nice smooth brakes, stay away from the super hard
Thanks y'all. Will check this all out. The thunking isn't a broken piece, at least not that I can tell. Took the rear tired off the other night and the drums. Thing that really pisses me off is that the dealership worked on them a few months back and gave me a 6000mile warranty. Now its time to call on that but they said my driving habits, and the fact its used for offroad, voids the warranty. That's bull. So I am taking it into my own hands.
I'm not the greatest mechanic but I can follow directions so I have a Haynes manual.
A few tips:
Only do one side at a time. That way if you can't remember how all the parts fit together you can use the opposite side to look at. For that matter, take a picture.
Buy or borrow the spring tools. They were worth every penny.
Listen to rrich. His advice saved my sanity and got me through a few tough spots.
If your receipt does not say the warranty is void if you drive it, or drive it off road they are still liable.
A call to Consumer Affairs will bring them to their knees.
Look closely at the inside of the drums, a magnifying glass helps. When they "turn the drums on a lathe they actually are threading it with tiny grooves. Unless they finish the job it stays there, sometimes getting more pronounced.
When you stop, the linings catch in those threads and move to the side, slip. then do it again, "thump, thump, thump."
Simply use fine Emory paper and scratch up those threads so they don't "catch."
Thanks rrich. I will do that either this weekend or next weekend. As far as the dealership, its not worth my time. There is some history there with them and my brakes. When i first got the Jeep, i turned it back in while it was under its 30-day bumper to bumper and had them adjust and fix the rear brakes. They did with no questions asked. As soon as i got the jeep back, the pedal felt very soft and squishy. Well, after a trip from Ft Worth to Denton, i arrive at my friends house to find that my left rear had seized up. Took them over a week and a half to fix.
So, now that I am 5100 miles into my warranty, they want to charge me the $70 service fee to verify that it was bad workman ship, or faulty parts. They are not going to hook me up with a loaner car, and i have to take time off work to get it there and again to get it back. So that's why I'm saying screw it.
Your latest note of why its thumping, or thunk-a-thunking, makes sense as I can definitely tell they turned the drums recently. Everything else looks clean except for the brake dust on everything. no leaking of any kind. I was really worried at first cause I thought I might have something wrong with the rear diff cause after its been parked with the e-brake, sometimes when i go again, it almost sounds , and feels, like a life size zip-tie is being pulled tight, and then its gone after i get moving. The fact they are self adjusting, and your recent suggestion about the catching on the lining, its all coming together and making sense.
As far as the tools, i am definitely going to buy them, as i know i will use them again. As soon as i get everything off and cleaned, and put back on, i will come back with the results, and some pics.
Again, I appreciate the help i have received here.
Sounds like their brake tech isn't a tech, he's more of a butcher.
The soft pedal - he may have got air in the lines due to improper bleeding.
The low pedal - maybe caused by improper adjustment.
A complaint to Consumer Affairs - they don't take kindly to faulty brake work - somebody could get killed! If you tell them your previous experience with the dealer and refuse to go back again, they may even send you to another shop to get it put right - at the dealer's expense. Or they may just get your money back.
While you have the drums off - pull and push on the axle - in and out. There's normally a slight bit of movement, but if it seems excessive look into it. It may have been the clunking too.
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