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-   -   Shifting Trouble (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/shifting-trouble-94503.html)

jtepper 05-19-2011 04:19 PM

Shifting Trouble
 
Hello, I am new to the Jeep Forum here, I have had my 2001 Jeep Wrangler for just about a year now, got it last summer on my birthday and I am in love with it. Just recently though I have been having trouble shifting from 3rd into 2nd gear when I need to shift while driving, the specific trouble is that the gears are grinding, eventually it goes into second gear, but it takes a bit of work and it must be going no higher than 20mph, when i used to be able to shift into second from third at 25mph, there is nothing in the way under the car that I can see when I put it on the lift. Any thoughts on what might the problem?

Thank you!

- J

kjeeper10 05-19-2011 05:12 PM

Sounds like your trannys going and the synchronizers are going bad.

jtepper 05-19-2011 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjeeper10 (Post 1250390)
Sounds like your trannys going and the synchronizers are going bad.

yea my father told me he thought it might be the synchronizer. thank you very much

robbiecc 05-19-2011 06:33 PM

when was the last time you changed the tranny fluid. mine didn't want to dn shift to 2nd till i was almost stopped-now will do it around 20 mph no prob. have an ax-5 and tried the mobile 1 bout a month and a half ago-so far so good

C.L. 05-19-2011 06:57 PM

Try letting the clutch out in neutral between gears (obviously push it back in before going for the next one). If that quiets it down, probably synchronizers. If not, maybe low on clutch fluid or a failing cylinder? Does the clutch grab immediately when you start to lift your foot, or is there some travel first?

wirejock 05-19-2011 07:19 PM

clutch
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by C.L. (Post 1250573)
Try letting the clutch out in neutral between gears (obviously push it back in before going for the next one). If that quiets it down, probably synchronizers. If not, maybe low on clutch fluid or a failing cylinder? Does the clutch grab immediately when you start to lift your foot, or is there some travel first?

I second this. Keep an eye out for a failing Master or slave. Just replaced them on mine. The clutch would engage right off the floor. It finally started rolling at a stop and completely failed in front of the house.

jtepper 05-19-2011 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C.L. (Post 1250573)
Try letting the clutch out in neutral between gears (obviously push it back in before going for the next one). If that quiets it down, probably synchronizers. If not, maybe low on clutch fluid or a failing cylinder? Does the clutch grab immediately when you start to lift your foot, or is there some travel first?

I'll give that a try next time I'm driving. There is a tiny bit of travel first before the clutch grabs.

MP92 05-19-2011 08:28 PM

Check the slave cylinder and see if its leaking from the screw holes. I had trouble shifting and I replaced it with an advance auto metal one and it shifts like a dream now.

Tannerr 05-19-2011 08:34 PM

My clutch engages right off the floor, and occasionally if I sit idling in neutral or if i don't shift back into first before I come to a complete stop at a light it won't go let me put it into any gears until shut off and turned back on. Also it almost always grinds when going into reverse. Could this also be a failing slave or master?

Edit: Fotgot to mention the clutch pedal itself is very hard to pus compared to any other standard rigs I have driven, but maybe thats normal?

Shelby427 05-19-2011 10:33 PM

First part of you symptoms Tanner sound like a slave cylinder going south on you.
The second part, could be a faulty clutch master cylinder, or a pressure plate problem in the clutch itself. If it's collapsing, the pedal will be a bugger to push. And since it's collapsed it will have almost no disengagement, and near instant application.

Tannerr 05-20-2011 05:42 AM

Thanks Shelby!, I don't know a whole lot about clutch systems but from what I understand the Master is attached to the clutch pedal, and when depressed puts pressure in the master which in turn put pressure on the slave which acts like a piston in a brake caliper?? releasing the clutch? Pleasee correct me if I'm wrong!

wirejock 05-20-2011 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shelby427 (Post 1250994)
First part of you symptoms Tanner sound like a slave cylinder going south on you.
The second part, could be a faulty clutch master cylinder, or a pressure plate problem in the clutch itself. If it's collapsing, the pedal will be a bugger to push. And since it's collapsed it will have almost no disengagement, and near instant application.

Mine had this problem. I replaced Master and Slave. The existing Slave had no bleeder so there was no way to clear the air after the Master was replaced. The Advance Auto Master and Slave units are metal and the slave has a bleeder. Nice unit. I still have a very stiff clutch that engages pretty close to the floor. New LuK clutch kit is on the way and will hopefully fix it for good.

Shelby427 05-20-2011 08:49 AM

Yep Tanner, you got it, simple hydraulics at work. Use of hydraulics makes it easier to work the clutch.

The pressure plates use a series of coil springs to apply pressure (duh) to the clutch disc, in turn holding it against the fly wheel so your jeep moves.

The throwout bearing, which is what the slave cylinder moves, applies pressure to 3 or more arms on the pressure plate. Those arms in turn act as levers against the coil springs in the pressure plate, to pull it away from the clutch disc. So you can shift.

If those arms break or bend, when you try to disengage the clutch it barely moves or in some cases not at all. Can feel like you are pushing against the whole jeep instead of just the clutch pedal. And of course you can't shift worth a darn then, or the jeep wants to keep going when you have the clutch depressed.


Note: a clutch is only mandatory for pulling out of a stop or coming to a stop.
I drove semis, and it was the only time you used a clutch. 15 gears and only used the clutch twice. Up shift and down shift, it's all matching engine rpms and road speed, no clutch needed.;)

Tannerr 05-21-2011 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shelby427 (Post 1251510)
Yep Tanner, you got it, simple hydraulics at work. Use of hydraulics makes it easier to work the clutch.

The pressure plates use a series of coil springs to apply pressure (duh) to the clutch disc, in turn holding it against the fly wheel so your jeep moves.

The throwout bearing, which is what the slave cylinder moves, applies pressure to 3 or more arms on the pressure plate. Those arms in turn act as levers against the coil springs in the pressure plate, to pull it away from the clutch disc. So you can shift.

If those arms break or bend, when you try to disengage the clutch it barely moves or in some cases not at all. Can feel like you are pushing against the whole jeep instead of just the clutch pedal. And of course you can't shift worth a darn then, or the jeep wants to keep going when you have the clutch depressed.


Note: a clutch is only mandatory for pulling out of a stop or coming to a stop.
I drove semis, and it was the only time you used a clutch. 15 gears and only used the clutch twice. Up shift and down shift, it's all matching engine rpms and road speed, no clutch needed.;)

We have a 40 year old forlift at work and its the same idea, clutch to start and stop and shift with engine speed. Thanks for your help again Shelby!

wirejock 05-21-2011 09:03 PM

Clutch
 
Update...My clutch failed. I think it's a collapsed pressure plate. The pedal has pressure but the clutch will not disengage. New LuK on the way. I'll post results.


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