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fullyadam 05-28-2011 12:08 PM

Rebuilding my Stock Carb, Anything I should Know?
Hey Forum! I have had trouble with my 87 YJ 4.2L idling (it wont at all, ever, i literally need to hold down the gas while driving/parked) and I have replaced the fuel filter and vaccum hoses (no more 4-wheel vacuum engage, it has an after market 4-wheel engage cable the name of which is escaping me). I suspect the carb is part of the problem as I have heard from many of you the stock ones are garbage. As a learning exercise and to save a bit of cash at the moment I am going to rebuild the ol' Carter. I have a rebuild kit and the floats from NAPA and some general Carb rebuild and cleaning tips from YouTube and other places. I have heard these jobs aren't too hard for someone with even a little bit of working knowledge of motors.

Any tips out there to avoid a potential headache??

JP_SATX 05-29-2011 12:24 AM

Yeah, get a different carb. Every Carter does that. Mine was notorious for it. I had a Webber 38/38 installed and it never did it again.

I know that's not what you wanted to hear, but that's the best advise I can give you. I'm suprized it took this long for it to start doing it.

The name that escapes you is "Cable Lock" :thumb:


Undead-89 05-29-2011 12:37 AM

I've had an idle problem before that turned out to be one clogged venturi. I got great gas mileage since it was running super lean. you could see there was gas dripping from one side but not the other. I cleaned out that one side and no problems after that.

I also had a carb issue that wasn't a carb issue directly when the hose from the PCV valve melted on the side facing the engine. You couldn't see the damage without rotating the hose. it is/was part of a recall by Chrysler, at least for the 89's.

I've been running with the original Carter for 21 years, still works fine for me.

Undead-89 05-29-2011 12:50 AM

Keep track of your parts.
Take pictures as you go, if you can.
Work on it, off the engine in a clean place.
Mark all the hoses and ports. A sharpie directly at the port on the carb and any tape you can read sharpie on, masking tape or Duct tape are good. scotch tape in a pinch. use number or letters or hash marks.
Do not force anything in or out of the carb. You don't want to tear the accelerator pump washer or bend the needles.
The ball joints on the accelerator cable and pivot assembly should pop straight off, but be careful, if they are especially rusty the spring may break off. you can get replacement springs and some Ace hardware stores, maybe Home depot. They will be in the bulk bins where you have to pick your individual parts and put them in the bag.
Check the accelerator cable at the ball joint to make sure it moves freely and that the cable isn't fraying. Been there done that, drove on makeshift cable for a week.
Use white lithium grease on the ball joints, or any other semi-viscous fairly high temp grease. White Lithium is also made for door hinges, lock assemblies, etc. so good to have.
Try to do it in one go if you can, so you remember where everything goes. that one thing you forgot to take a picture of, is the one thing that won't be in the videos or in the repair manual and the one thing you forget the orientation of.

Have fun with it.

Fweaky 05-29-2011 03:02 AM

Take a picuture of your money then set it on fire.
Same result.

Get you a Motorcraft 2100.

Hemi YJ 05-29-2011 08:31 AM

Replace, replace, replace... it can't be said enough. I don't care what they say on Mythbusters. You can't polish a turd.

Matcheen 05-29-2011 09:12 AM


Originally Posted by Hemi YJ (Post 1268240)
Replace, replace, replace... it can't be said enough. I don't care what they say on Mythbusters. You can't polish a turd.


wreck999 05-29-2011 12:03 PM

yeah lose the carb! i bought an adapter plate and bolted on a 2 barrel.

Hemi YJ 05-29-2011 12:05 PM

I'd do a 4 barrel.

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