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-   -   Check Engine Light - No code? (http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/check-engine-light-no-code-98916.html)

PTaylor 06-20-2011 07:42 AM

Check Engine Light - No code?
 
I noticed my check engine light was on when I was pulling out my driveway this morning. Almost positive it wasn't on yesterday. vehicle drives fine, no problems.

I did the key in run position while holding the odometer button to pull codes for '98 and up TJs

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/tj-error-codes-358.html


The Jeep goes through a diagnostic where it flashes the software version, test lights and gauges, then nothing. seems to go back to standard mode. no error codes are flashed.

I did the procedure again, same thing.

My questions are:
Is this the correct way to pull the codes from a 2001 TJ I6? Some people say yes, it works, some say, no, that;s an instrument panel test. I probably will run it and have the codes read, but figured I'd try this first, if it's true.

If no code, what next next? Reset the computer and see if it comes back?

Is the procedure for reseting the computer without external diagnostic equipment to remove the negative battery terminal and flip the key over to drain the computer stored energy as stated other threads?

Anything else I need to check before taking it somewhere to have the codes read?





One thing I noticed, but I'm not sure this is relevant, when the testing was done (or at least the gauge test was done and all returned to "normal") was the OEM voltage meter seemed low. When I start the vehicle, it goes to it's normal "around 14 volt" position, but with it off, it drops down more than I remember. So I'll have to go check the battery with a voltmeter today. I don't know if a low voltage battery would throw out a check engine light or not, and besides, the vehicle starts fine.

Atthehop 06-20-2011 07:59 AM

Run down to a local auto parts store and have them hook up a code reader to confirm if you have codes.

PTaylor 06-20-2011 08:00 AM

did the "key flip 3 time test" and got a P0743

So, looking that up it reads:

Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid/ Trans Relay Circuits

An open or shorted condition detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit (3 or 4-speed auto. trans. only).


?????

PTaylor 06-20-2011 08:26 AM

Took it up to local automotive parts store and had them pull the code. He verified it as the same code I pulled. I figured I'd have him clear the code and see if it comes back but his device couldn't or he couldn't figure out how so..... think it's wise at this point to clear the code and see if it comes back? What should I begin checking to see what the problem is or what caused the problem?

JDsDream 06-20-2011 08:39 AM

I would type the code into google search and collect as much information on it as I could before resetting it. More than likely it will bring you back to the forum but you will have a better idea of what you are dealing with.

Shelby427 06-20-2011 08:47 AM

Well from the code you have a problem in the TCC system. Could be a blown fuse, an open/shorted wire outside/inside the trans, a bad TCC solenoid, or bad TCC, even possibly a bad TCM.

You can check the basics, fuse #11, the wiring on the outside of the trans for the TCC.
Other then that, it's going to be at least dropping the pan to further check wiring and TCC solenoid in the valve body. Lastly it would be going to the torque converter itself...
Also the trans control module as stated could be going on you.

Sounds like it may mean a trip to the dealer or a good trans shop to find out more.

PTaylor 06-20-2011 08:50 AM

yeah, that's what I've been doing. Many, many threads on the same thing, really, only a few solutions. A few indicate a fuse or a relay, but I cannot find any on mine unless it's marked differently. A few indicate they changed the solenoid and it either solved their problem or the same thing. The ones it did fix reported problems with shifting. I would hate to drop the tranny to change it and find that's not the problem. some indicate they cleared the code and it went away.... kinda like when you leave the gas cap off. something threw up the code, but what I have no idea, especially since it's running and shifting normal. Guess I'll check connectors and see before trying to reset the code.


Only thing we did that's unusual was jump a tractor off yesterday and followed behind for several miles at a crawl. But again, nothing yesterday.

PTaylor 07-14-2011 10:26 PM

Check engine light came back on today, pulled the code and it's the same one Po743. so, anyone got any suggestions on what to do next?

I'll check the wiring in the morning, Jeep still seems to drive fine. How hard is it to change that part? anyone ever done it before or have a diagram to show where it is?

Boo97wrangler 03-27-2012 08:33 PM

Hey im going through the same thing in my 97. The CE light came on and the P0743 code came up. I drove it for a few days and my trans started slipping. I checked the fluid and found it was slightly dirty and smelt burnt. Im hoping that changing the fluid will fix the slipping, but did you ever find anything out about the code? Im thinking im going to have to replace the solenoid. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

PTaylor 03-28-2012 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boo97wrangler (Post 2189567)
Hey im going through the same thing in my 97. The CE light came on and the P0743 code came up. I drove it for a few days and my trans started slipping. I checked the fluid and found it was slightly dirty and smelt burnt. Im hoping that changing the fluid will fix the slipping, but did you ever find anything out about the code? Im thinking im going to have to replace the solenoid. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I had a few other people respond to the same question on other forums on what I should do.

Run down again on mine, running fine, no slipping that I can tell. Last year I noticed the CE light and that code.
Well, my light quit coming on. Hasn't done it all winter and still, no problems with the tranny.

A few people stated all they did was change their fluid and problem went away.

Seems yours is an indication of something going wrong, so I wouldn't just change the fluid, I would also change the filter.

From what I've read, and I could be wrong, but while you have the pan off in order to change the filter, changing that part isn't that much more work to do. The pan is already off, the filter removed, it's accessible from that point anyway. That's what I would advice in your situation. Also, that part isn't a lot of money.

I'm gonna wait until the weather warms up a little more to see if mine starts coming back on, just to see if it is temp related. If it does, I'll probably have my fluid, filter, and that part changed out all at the same time.

kwn306 03-28-2012 07:45 AM

Your torque converter is messing up while engaging, causing your bands inside the trans to slip. It could be the solenoid, but I doubt it, if your trans fluild is burnt and smells like $hit more than likely you will need an overhaul. Sorry for the bad news.

Boo97wrangler 03-28-2012 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwn306
Your torque converter is messing up while engaging, causing your bands inside the trans to slip. It could be the solenoid, but I doubt it, if your trans fluild is burnt and smells like $hit more than likely you will need an overhaul. Sorry for the bad news.

3

Thats what i had a feeling needed to be done. :banghead: im going to try and do the cheaper things first and pray thats it! Lol. Thanks for the response back! Ill keep ya updated with the outcome.

Boo97wrangler 03-28-2012 08:42 AM

And overhaul as in tranny and all or u think a new torque converter would fix it?

kwn306 03-28-2012 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boo97wrangler (Post 2191293)
And overhaul as in tranny and all or u think a new torque converter would fix it?

I worked on transmissions for over 25 years, 75% - 85% of the time a electronic lock up torque converter that was throwing a code took out the bands and/or clutches in the transmission. What you said about the burnt, nasty transmission fluild gave me enough information to give you the doom and gloom, sorry.

I just purchased a used 2005 Unlimited in January and the first thing I did before the test drive was to pull the dip stick and take a smell. I really wanted a stick but my sorry old a$$ left knee does not like shifting anymore.

I used to tell my customers that owned a Jeep to clean and flush once a year or every 12K if they did any off roading, it's cheap insurance. If the Jeep spent time in a creek or river without having the breathers lengthen up the firewall, change the fluild asap. Some listened some didn't, if they didn't they were back to me or someone else getting a overhaul within 25K miles.

If you are running around town at less than 50 mph, dis-engage the overdrive, it will save you a transmission overhaul in the future.

Hopefully I'm wrong and you may get lucky, good luck !

Boo97wrangler 03-28-2012 04:49 PM

Thats what i figured. Thanks for the comments though! Now I know it isn't a trans shop just trying to make money off of me!

hookuspookus 03-31-2012 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Atthehop (Post 1318273)
Run down to a local auto parts store and have them hook up a code reader to confirm if you have codes.

ditto

Boo97wrangler 04-05-2012 12:11 PM

Ok so I dropped the pan the other day to inspect and change the fluid. (Trying to do cheap before forking out a few grand) The filter was disgusting and dirty fluid. Had some very, very small bits of metal in the pan. I was told thats kinda normal. Well put a new filter on an put pan back on. UN hooked the return line from radiator to flush the remaining, nasty, fluid out. Turned jeep on, put in neutral and nothing would come out. Let her run for a bit to try and build pressure but nothing. So I un hooked the intake line (trans-radiator) at the trans and nothing would even come out from there. Is that maybe the torque converter not working? Ima try and do that tomorrow to See if that will do anything. Like I said, im trying to fix it myself and save some money if I can. Thanks for all the help

kwn306 04-06-2012 06:12 AM

You need to add new fluid back into the trans. If you drained out 5 - 6 qts., you need to re-install that many. The trans has no fluid in it to pump the rest of the crud out. I suggest using a gallon milk jug, mark on the sides quart lines, the pump in the trans pumps pretty fast, this is a 2 person job. Once you add fluid, have someone start the Jeep with the trans line in the milk jug, let 2 - 3 qts drain into the jug, stop the motor and then re-fill the trans with that much, keep doing this until the trans oil looks fresh and new. This is a home grown flushing method. Good Luck.

Boo97wrangler 04-06-2012 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwn306
You need to add new fluid back into the trans. If you drained out 5 - 6 qts., you need to re-install that many. The trans has no fluid in it to pump the rest of the crud out. I suggest using a gallon milk jug, mark on the sides quart lines, the pump in the trans pumps pretty fast, this is a 2 person job. Once you add fluid, have someone start the Jeep with the trans line in the milk jug, let 2 - 3 qts drain into the jug, stop the motor and then re-fill the trans with that much, keep doing this until the trans oil looks fresh and new. This is a home grown flushing method. Good Luck.

Im sorry, I dint mention in the last post, after I drained and replaced everything I added 6 arts prior to starting engine

Boo97wrangler 04-06-2012 08:56 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Just dropped the pan again. The top is what came out,bottom is new. Just for a comparison.

Boo97wrangler 04-06-2012 11:48 AM

Question. I found a tranny at a junk yard that has 104k miles for 800. U think that would be better or pay 1500 to have it rebuilt? Or let a local college re build it for parts cost? Last two trucks ive had got rebuilt and they were never the same


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