Thats a teraflex driveshaft with their high angle rzeppa joints at both ends. I have one on the front. Those allen bolts should be a regular bolt that you might be able to find at a hardware store, otherwise mcmaster would probably have one Teraflex includes a ball end hex wrench to remove those that might help prevent future issues.

 

Really appreciate helping ID! A lot of Teraflex parts on this jeep so that makes sense. I did pick up 6 replacement bolts at HD yesterday to have on hand, and replace any that aren’t perfect. I’ll pick up some ball end attachments too.

 

Can confirm that's the Teraflex high angle CV shaft. Teraflex recommends a ball ended hex to get the bolts at an angle to prevent the boot "bell" from getting damaged or bent. It's hard to avoid contacting the bell, but thankfully it's hard to damage it.

 

When I do the pinion seal replacement, should I repack the rzeppa joint or leave it alone. Doesn’t look like you can buy a replacement boot for this if it is damaged, all or nothing.

 

setting the pinion right is harder part here then replacing the pinion seal. Get that wrong and it will eat up the pinion bearings. How is the pinion now? any lateral play?

Thought the TF Cv joint was replaceable? They sell one for a stock shaft as well. I would suspect they us the same part just for simplicity?

 

The cv is replaceable, but the boot is not.

The advantage of the teraflex ds is the cv at both ends. It wont matter what the angle is at the pinion or transfercase as long as you arent maxing out the joint during the cycling of the suspension. I really like it in the front as you no longer have to compromise caster for pinion angle

 

Yes you should measure the preload with a inch pound torque wrench before you take it off and try to match that when reinstalling

 

Got it. I see some of the torque setting on these are crazy high. I feel this could be a fun one. I’ll also count threads, mark w pen, and get reset.

 

When you initially set up the gears the torque required to start crushing the crush sleeve is insane. You shouldnt need to go near that as the sleeve should already be crushed correctly. It should be far less torque to get the bearing preload back to where it was. If you go too far you will need a new crush sleeve

 

Thought I hit reply, but this message just sitting here.

I need some suggestions/advice here. When I did the diff fluid I noticed a few small pieces of metal on the magnet, not a ton but noteworthy. From what I understand, if metal is more than the small shavings/fuzz on the magnet/plug its signs of a problem.

I don’t know enough in this arena to know if this is just wear and tear, signs of too much torque on preload for gears? I saw a couple videos on replacing gears and for me it’s likely past my skills.

 

Something chipped off and started eating your spider gears. Suggest you get that into a differential shop if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself before more damage occurs

 

Actually doesn’t look too bad to do this myself. I’ll search for a Dana 44 video. I think what had me concerned where all the shims and frankly didn’t understand preload in all of that. I just need to make sure that I understand what spider gear set I need to pick up. Video they reused those shims. Is that an acceptable approach unless they are damaged somehow?

what would cause this to happen? Since I don’t know everything about the Jeep history since we bought it used could this be too much torque or too little torque for the preload?

Dana 30 spider gear

 

Could be any number of things.
Too large a tire with wrong gears.
Low fluid getting them hot and brittle.
Another component breaking off a piece and getting ground up in gears.(make sure to check axle shafts bearings etc.)
Slamming back and forth from heavy pedal and backing off.
Just plain wear and tear

 

Chipping the spider gears in the non rubicon 44 is fairly common. You shouldn't have any issues reusing the shims but you need to make sure they go back in the same side you removed them from. Preload is just the extra force on the tapered bearings from when they are just touching with zero play. In the pinion it is set by crushing the crushsleeve. The carrier bearing preload is set by adding extra shim thickness. Technically I believe the jk carrier bearing preload spec is 0 but typically people will add a few thou worth of shims to each side from what is 0 play. You shouldn't have to worry about that if you are reusing the shims

 

Looking at Brands. Yukon a good one to go for?

YPKD44-S-30-JK. This one? Dana 44, open diff, 30 spline.

 

Before you get going too fast, maybe clean up that ring and pinion and inspect it well. I can't tell for certain, with the pictures you posted, but it looks like there may be some spalling on the drive flank of the ring gear.