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Old 02-11-2018, 01:47 PM
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What was your worst bolt?

Jeeps are riddled with pita bolts, from exhaust manifolds to welded upper shock mount bolts. What bolt gave you the hardest time, and howd you beat it???

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Old 02-11-2018, 01:55 PM   #2
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My worst one was on a ford pickup alternator. The alternator had shorted and welded itself to the long bolt it swiveled on. Hacksaw blades and time were the only solution.

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Old 02-11-2018, 01:56 PM   #3
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Gonna say skid plate bolts on other people's jeeps. You never know if they are gonna rip out, till they rip out. No matter how the frame looks on the outside, you just never know.
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Old 02-11-2018, 05:51 PM   #4
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I don't recall exactly which bolt it was, but it was a track bar, sway bar something or other on my XJ. Couldn't get that sum buck off with a wrench to save my life due to rust. I finally got a 4.5" angle grinder armed with a cut off wheel after it. The wheel bound up, jerked the grinder out of my hands (of course locked in the 'on' position), and dropped the running blade straight down onto my knee cap. I actually felt the dang thing bounce off the bone.
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Old 02-11-2018, 06:04 PM   #5
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jeep --any torx head into the floor. ever? suzuki quadsport swingarm bolt--goes thru hardened bushings, burned out piles of sawzall blades cutting that thing off. If i ever have to split that engine, I'm still in for hell as the bushings are still seized in there.
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Old 02-11-2018, 06:58 PM   #6

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MM bolt drivers side on my 06 Rubi, give me 2 minutes with the engineer that came up with that design.
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Old 02-11-2018, 07:23 PM   #7

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I've been in the automotive business all my life and now I'm retired, so I've probably forgot a few.
The most recent worst ones were the main eye bolts while replacing my springs. The bolt was frozen in the steel bushing insert and there's no way to unfreeze it. The only way is to cut the bolt on each side of the spring (X4).

Second worse are any torx (torques) bolts. The solution is to heat them first to break the threadlocker (Loctite) bond and then use the CORRECT sized torx bit.

Another time might be when I knocked a bead off on a rock in a mudhole and just had new tires installed by an idiot with an impact wrench and no torque stick.
Fortunately I had a 4 way lug wrench and it did the job, but not until after I slipped while standing on it and fell butt first into the cold wet mud.
I'm still pissed about that.

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Old 02-11-2018, 11:42 PM
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Maybe not the most srubborn, but my po, used helicoils, on the rear pinion yoke but they were much shorter than the bolt, so over time the bolts wiggled until SNAP! off goes the driveshaft, taking part of the output shaft with it. Had to drill out the bolts, remove the helicoil, try ro tap it, realize a bigger bolt wouldnt fit throuhh the u joint strap, realize this was a lost cause and then i bought a new pinion yoke.
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Old 02-12-2018, 03:45 PM   #9
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It's funny that I see this thread today. I spent about 4 hours yesterday trying to remove the torx head rear driver's side track arm bolt on my YJ. I had my Sawzall, angle grinder with cut off disc, air cut off saw, and an air hammer out trying to get the thing out of there. Of all the bolts I've tried to remove over the years, I'm pretty sure that one was the worst.
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:57 AM   #10
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IF IT doesn't include needing explosives then you are dealing with amateur fasteners and it doesn't count.

Manymanymany years ago a buddy of mine was disassembling an old barn and silo for the lumber. The silo was wrapped in iron reinforcement bars to keep it from bowing out when the grain goes in. THey used massive bolts to hold everything together and things were going fine, he was using a torch to cut away the bad ones until he got towards the top but he had a flare up through a crack as it still had some old grain in it and grain dust can be VERY explosive. AND anything he had, saw, torch, grinder, threw sparks and you had to be hanging on to it.

Way back then I had my explosive license and he gave me a call. I wrapped his reluctant connector and all the remaining ones in Det(detonation cord) and from a safe distance we cut the rest of the banding restraints all at once. WOrst case scenario would be the dust would ignite and finish the demolition like blowing it out like a failed banana. Nothing, no dust explosion, all the steel was gone but it still stood. They knew how to build them back then.
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Old 02-14-2018, 08:30 AM   #11
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My worst was for a plastic retainer on rear of cylinder head that’s bolted to camshaft. Had my motor rebuilt and running smooth only to discover a huge oil leak. There’s zero room to access it against the firewall. Took me 8 hours and a few bloody knuckles to remove it. Had to fabricate a tire bit welded inside a 6mm box end to fit in the small space.
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Old 02-15-2018, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Ov yj View Post
Gonna say skid plate bolts on other people's jeeps. You never know if they are gonna rip out, till they rip out. No matter how the frame looks on the outside, you just never know.
2 of mine just spun and one broke the breaker bar... I ended removing the t case the hard way...
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Old 02-18-2018, 09:09 PM   #13
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Nothing bad on the Jeeps yet, but too many in old Ford cast iron blocks (exhaust manifold studs, alternator bracket bolts, etc.) I don't even hesitate anymore...burn it out with a torch and clean the threads with a tap!
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Old 03-09-2018, 10:59 PM   #14
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When I bought my Jeep it had a tow bar. Every bolt on that thing was the worst bolt. I had to take a torch to most of them and had to cut one off.
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Old 03-10-2018, 09:35 PM   #15
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The bolt under the OPDA. Did it soon after getting the Jeep. Don’t know why it was so hard to get off other than just being stuck and in a difficult spot for me to get leverage on. Took 3 days and I had to use a distributor wrench on a long extension and a bunch of PB blaster and heat. Once it let go it was smooth as anything. You’d never have guessed how much I fought with it.
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Old 03-22-2018, 11:03 PM   #16
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Exhaust manifold bolts on a 4.0, need I say more… You need hands the size of a two-year-old and lots and lots and lots of patience!
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Old 03-22-2018, 11:32 PM   #17
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It's a toss-up. First contender is one/three of the upper rear shock mount bolts. One in particular. They all had to be sawed off or drilled out. Last one destroyed half a dozen regular high speed drill bits, three titanium metal bits, and three carbide tipped bits before I got the hole through. Ended up drilling right up thru the original nuts, re-installed longer bolts, lock washers, and nuts, all plated and grade 8.

Contender #2 is my JKS adjustable trac bar when I installed the lift. It was frozen, and needed the torch to loosen up. Cooked all the powder coat off. So, once I pulled it all apart and cleaned the threads, I put anti-seize on the threads this time. It can't move far either way, even if the lock nut loosens.
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Old 03-23-2018, 11:07 AM   #18
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Can't recall which one but one of the control arm bolts gave me a run for my money when I was installing my lift. You can't really see it as it's inside the frame and accessed through a hole in the side. I used a ratchet. A breaker bar. An impact wrench. That thing was NOT BUDGING.

Well... turns out it was a captive nut on a metal plate. The bolt went through from the other side.
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:16 PM   #19
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Skid plate bolt protector (the one on the right) after direct hit - punch and hammer required to get a socket on it. The bolt was undamaged and came out just fine!
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Old 03-26-2018, 09:54 PM   #20
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A rusted old bolt in my dana 60 knuckle that snapped off when I was trying to remove it so i could finish rebuilding it. After 2 weeks of soaking in PB blaster and lots of vise grips and swearing I had enough. I told the bolt "BITCH YOUR COMING OUT!"

Proceeded to call up my uncle and let him know i was on my way. Showed up to his engine shop 35 minutes later and he broke out the oxy-acetylene torch and we roasted the knuckle till that bitch looked like a cherry. Then a few attempt later we got the bolt out with the vise grips.

I still have the bolt somewhere. I kept it to remind myself that fire should always be your first and last solution.
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Old 03-27-2018, 12:58 AM   #21

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Originally Posted by Gpnfryk View Post
Exhaust manifold bolts on a 4.0, need I say more… You need hands the size of a two-year-old and lots and lots and lots of patience!
Not what I wanted to hear. I'm getting ready to change mine out.
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Old 03-27-2018, 09:01 PM   #22
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Not a bolt but I'll never forget replacing the front wheel hub assemblies on my Chrysler a few years ago. I had an air compressor, so any nuts and bolts weren't too hard to remove. One hub came off after a few minutes of smacking it with a hammer. Then it was time for the other one.

Over the course of two days, lots of PB Blaster, a propane torch and a 3 lb hammer I finally got it off. I reinstalled the old rotor and tried smacking it from behind but that thing was rusted on pretty well. I'd say I hammered on it for at least 3-4 hours over those two days. I don't know how much an air hammer costs but if I had to do it over again I would probably go out and buy one.
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Old 04-02-2018, 10:59 AM   #23
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Worst bolts for me were on an old CJ.

The spring bolts had rusted to the inner sleeve of the bushing. Had to cut those with a sawzall.

The bolts holding the shock tower on had rusted in the middle so there was probably 1/3 of the original metal left in the body of the bolt. The head and threads were still intact. They came out without twisting off. I don't have any pictures of the bolts but they looked interesting.

But I was doing a frame-off restore/upgrade and one of the bolts holding a shackle hanger snapped off. Turns out it was hopelessly rusted to the captive nut in the frame. I ended up having to use a dremel to cut a square in the frame and drop the nut completely. I took some flat stock, drilled a hole in it, welded a new nut to it, then cut it to fit in the frame. I used a bolt in the nut to hold it in place while I welded it in place. It actually turned out pretty well. I barely needed to grind it and it held up until I scrapped the Jeep.

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