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Old 02-18-2016, 02:28 PM
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07 JKU w/ 100k miles...what maintenance to do?

Hey Folks - Hope ya'll can help me out. Long time lurker, occasional post'er (looking to change that!) Posted this on another site, got no love...coming to the experts now.

Warning - Long post...hopefully this will provide the background for the best advice.

Please comment on the Maintenance List (indicate yes/no…or add more items). Help me make this jeep run for another 75k...


Jeep Usage & Description
Driving & Usage Style - Assertive/Sensible, Do not hold back on speed, revs, weight, etc. The vehicle will be modded for me/my family (not for resale). It gets used like a Jeep and overloaded like a pickup.

Trip profile: Mostly soft roads & requisite hwy travel. Moderate off-road (some rocks, some mud) – places you’d go solo w/o a winch and not be the a**hole on the evening news who is 'lost & dead in the wilderness'

Towing & Utility:
(1) Single axle dump trailer (house remodel) – with 2-3x/month it loaded to 4k. 1x/month – 5-7k. Have Pics, will post if requested
(2) Will start towing a 1500# jeep expo trailer for camping purposes. Have the trailer already, Expo Build to start soon.
Routinely make HD runs for building supplies in jeep or in dump trailer.

Current mileage is ~105k w/ ~50k of highway/travel miles.

Lots of interior mods – nets, seat covers, HAM radios, GPS, lighting, interior rack, subwoofer relocated etc
Jeep is mostly stock; JKU Rubicon Manual 4.10s. 285/70/17 Duratracs with 70% life. No lift yet.

Engine Compartment
Engine Condition – typical 3.8 valve noise; idle a little rough (indicative of needing a tuneup); occasional stumble at idle; Some oil seepage around oil pan spacer – no other leaks indicated
Oil – 5W30 every 4-8k, depending on driving conditions (using M1 synthetic – going to switch to PP Synth)
Oil Consumption – ฝ qt every 3k miles with M1 Synthetic (can be higher with lots of high, hard revs); ฝ qt every 5k miles with Synth Blend
Spark Plugs - OEM, Never Changed – Will Change
PCV Valve – @ 50k Changed to address oil consumption. – Change?
Coolant - @85k
Water Pump @ 85k
Radiator Hoses - OEM, Never Changed – Feels/looks fine – Change?
Heater Hoses - OEM, Never Changed – Feels/Looks Fine – Change?
Power Steering Fluid – OEM, Never Changed
P/S Pump – Some Noise – suspect fluid needs to be changed
P/S Hoses – Feels/looks fine
Air Filter – @90K
Spark Plugs - OEM, Never Changed – Will Change
Throttle Body Cleaned - @ 50k – Will Clean
Serpentine Belt - @ 60k – Change?
Battery – Sears Platinum; 4yrs old – Seems fine – handles fridge & HAM duty just fine
Alternator –OEM, Never Changed, 160Amp – seems fine

Suspension
Front Axle Fluid – Chrysler @ 85k (complete axle rebuild due to failed locker, under warranty) – will change to AMSOIL
Rear Axle Fluid – AMSOIL @ 75k – Change?

Steering is sloppier/mildly more loose than I would like; esp while towing
Swap to HD versions of the following? (Nearly All suspension parts covered by Chrysler Wty)
Upper/Lower Ball Joints – Chrysler @ 75k
Tie Rod, Adjuster & Tie Rod Ends - @95k
Front Track Bar @ 95k
Drag Link & Adjuster – OEM, Never Changed

Steering Stabilizer – Rancho @ 35k, Dent in shock Body, needs replacement

F/R Control Arms – All Stock (how to tell if bushings are bad?)
Am thinking of changing arms to new OEM/takoffs & Swapping in Lower Front Adj CA, Upper Rear Adj CA with a small lift.
Will Add AEV Spring Brackets with lift


Shocks – Rancho RS9000xl @ 75k
Will replace with FOX DSC 2.0 or greater when springs are changed
Springs – Stock, Worn out & need replacement (riding low when empty)
Thinking of ~2" lift - EVO Plush front; Undecided Rears

Rear Bumpstops – SumoSprings @ 60k (great purchase)
Front Bumpstops – OEM, Never Changed, Need Replacement – will use SumoSprings

Brakes
Front – Teraflex Larger Rotor & Caliper Relocation Kit; Napa Premium Pads @ 80k (only brake job)
Rear – Stock, NAPA Rotors & Pads @ 80k (only brake job)
Brake Fluid – OEM, Never Changed (Partial flush w/ Slave Clynder Change) – Flush/Bleed Lines?
Brake Lines – OEM, Never Changed – Appear fine – Change?
Parking Brake – Needs Adjustment

Drivetrain
Transfer Case Fluid - AMSOIL @ 60k (40k since last change). Change?
Transmission Fluid - AMSOIL @60k (40k since last change). Change?
Transmission Condition – Synchros & shifting seems fine
TransferCase – Linkage moded with e-clip, shifts fine
Clutch – Stock, some chatter during engagement, esp when cold; feels ‘weak’
Leaning towards using Stock clutch & replace when it starts to slip/prior to next >3k road trip
Throwout Bearing – Typical Noise, remains unchanged since purchased @30k
Clutch Linkage – groins/creaks – remains unchanged since purchased @ 30k.
Slave Cylinder – replaced ~70k
Clutch Master Cylinder – Condition Unk – nothing indicates a change is necessary

Body
Overall good shape. No accidents (save for the deer that bounced off the windshield):smiley_drive:
Items that need paint:
Rubicon Rock Rails
Door Hinges (and area under the hinges)
Areas behind the plastic fenders showing some surface rust
Typical Undercarriage Rust (CA vehicle, with 5x cross country roadtrips in winter/salt)

Additional Mod List
Front Alum Bumper - see deer comment above
Winch w/ Synth line - thinking inexpensive Warn, or equiv.
HD Tailgate/Reinforcement Kit - MoRyde/J Scherb
Some sort of jerry can/fuel storage arrangment
(Really like this: Titan Fuel Tank)
Enlarge rear storage tub

Our last trip:

we just completed an 11k mile 7 week trip with my wife, a 90# St Bernard Mix...and my new baby (now 4 months old). Overall the jeep did really well, except for the lack of power, crappy OEM suspension, pathetic windshield defroster coverage. We started in San Francisco and went to Maine, then dropped down to Georgia...and then back to San Francisco. We hit every major storm the US experienced from mid-December through Feb 1st -> and hit most of the major parks along the route (Arches, Bryce Canyon, etc). Working on a trip report...

We were ~160# over GVWR, with a total weight of 5660# with all passengers and associated road trip gear (this was a hotel/motel trip – and we packed light). The jeep is stock except for an interior rack and other small items. (Pretty unreal we were over capacity)...so the stock suspension needs to be upgraded.


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Old 02-18-2016, 02:45 PM   #2
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Because you plan on towing, make sure that you use 75W140 synthetic gear lube in your rear Differential. This is a requirement, per Chrysler/Jeep.

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Old 02-18-2016, 03:02 PM
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Should note that I purchased the jeep in 2009 w/29k on the ODO and do most of the maintenace myself.

RE: Gear oil > yup. I used AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W140 in the rear. In my Suburban, the rear end would run 10-20deg cooler (had a sensor in the diff cover) with the AMSOIL bug juice. Been a believer ever since. The 15k factory drain/refill cycles for this jeep seemed ridiculous - @ 30K, the amsoil/looks smells like new. A UOA would tell for sure, but seems like overkill for the diff.
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:13 PM   #4
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Welcome to the forum : wavey

I have a very similar setup -- 2007 JKU now at 140k miles, manual, 33s, 4.10 axle ratio.

A few things that I would suggest since I have recently done these:

- oil leak is likely the oil pan gasket. Easy fix and cheap. Wait until your next oil change to do it.

- rough idle can be a lot of things but since you cleaned the TB, I would suggest looking at your exhaust manifold. Both of mine cracked. Not terribly difficult but takes some time, especially passenger side. If you are replacing spark plugs as well, then do it at the same time since you can get at everything from the passenger side wheel well. You'll need to remove the side fender, which is pretty easy. .

- if you're in that area, take a look at the EGR valve. It tends to go south after 100k.

- consider changing the ignition wires when you change the spark plugs

- your O2 sensors may start to go south soon if they are the originals. It will throw a check engine light when they fail. Definitely go MOPAR on these.

- parking brake adjustment is relatively simple. Lots of info on how to do it on this forum so search for it. Most likely they are a bit seized up with brake dust so spend some time cleaning the shoes as much as possible in addition to the star adjustment.

- I just switched all of the fluids to AMSOIL and couldn't be happier. Sounds like you did this already at around 85k so don't think you need it again unless you transmission is feeling rough. I decided to change it a couple of times just to get it all the old stuff fully cycled out. Definitely recommend the proper gear oil for towing (as already suggested by others).

- my rancho shocks are doing great but I think the springs need to go so I'm also looking at a lift kit. Thinking of doing the Teraflex 2.5 w/o shocks but with shock extenders (1315200).

I'm sure there's more :-). Never ending but if you're handy, these are fun weekend projects IMO.

Good luck!!
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:43 PM
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Thx for the response...

How were your heater & radiator hoses? Mine seem ok, but 100K 'feels' like a lot of miles on the original hoses. In my Suburban, I used to swap them out every few years (and they were shot).

Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdacosta View Post
Welcome to the forum : wavey

I have a very similar setup -- 2007 JKU now at 140k miles, manual, 33s, 4.10 axle ratio.

A few things that I would suggest since I have recently done these:

- oil leak is likely the oil pan gasket. Easy fix and cheap. Wait until your next oil change to do it.
Mine is at the joint above the pan...almost looks like a spacer that runs all the way around the bottom of the block between the oil pan and the block.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdacosta View Post
- rough idle can be a lot of things but since you cleaned the TB, I would suggest looking at your exhaust manifold. Both of mine cracked. Not terribly difficult but takes some time, especially passenger side. If you are replacing spark plugs as well, then do it at the same time since you can get at everything from the passenger side wheel well. You'll need to remove the side fender, which is pretty easy. .
I did the TB at around 50-60k...think it is time to do it again, The manifolds are intersting...what are the symptoms. When the heat is running, I swear I smell exhaust if the jeep is moving at a slow speed/stop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdacosta View Post
- if you're in that area, take a look at the EGR valve. It tends to go south after 100k.
This died @ 75k

Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdacosta View Post
- consider changing the ignition wires when you change the spark plugs

- your O2 sensors may start to go south soon if they are the originals. It will throw a check engine light when they fail. Definitely go MOPAR on these.
Good to know. Thx for reminding me...did have a code about a slow loop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdacosta View Post
- parking brake adjustment is relatively simple. Lots of info on how to do it on this forum so search for it. Most likely they are a bit seized up with brake dust so spend some time cleaning the shoes as much as possible in addition to the star adjustment.
Am thinking of swapping in the rear rotors of the Dynatrac big brake kit (already have upgraded the fronts Teraflex Big Rotor Kit...big difference.) That would be a good time to see what kind of mess Mopar made for me there

Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdacosta View Post
- I just switched all of the fluids to AMSOIL and couldn't be happier. Sounds like you did this already at around 85k so don't think you need it again unless you transmission is feeling rough. I decided to change it a couple of times just to get it all the old stuff fully cycled out. Definitely recommend the proper gear oil for towing (as already suggested by others).
You're right! I did this around ~30k/40k when I got the jeep and already changed them all once. Made a surprisingly big difference in the 6sp tranny; esp when cold.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdacosta View Post
- my rancho shocks are doing great but I think the springs need to go so I'm also looking at a lift kit. Thinking of doing the Teraflex 2.5 w/o shocks but with shock extenders (1315200).
I like my RS9000xls, but would prefer to see better rebound control and less bottoming out. When loaded, I need to dial the shocks up to 5 or more to reduce sway/body roll...but then makes the ride POGO quite a bit (rear bounces up over an obstacle and forces the front end down even when the shocks are adjusted the same). If the spring rate is too low/wrong for the weight, it will cause the same thing to happen. So if I end up swapping springs, it would be a shame to trash the 9000xls. Might try extenders for a bit with the new springs...good suggestion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mfdacosta View Post
I'm sure there's more :-). Never ending but if you're handy, these are fun weekend projects IMO.

Good luck!!
There is always more...
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:01 PM   #6
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Good point! Had the radiator and hoses replaced recently. I was at the dealer to get the fuel spill fixed under warranty (lifetime) and they gave me a good deal on the radiator so I took it since it was leaking badly. Hate to have the dealer do anything but made an exception this time.

Also, you mentioned bleeding the brakes. I think that's a good idea. Take a look at the master cylinder and see how the brake fluid looks. If it's fairly dark, then might be good to bleed. I did it recently and it's an easy job but best if you have a helper to press the brakes.
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:28 AM   #7
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Sorry -- missed some of your other points.

Oil leak -- take a pic when you get a chance. Mine initially looked like it was a transmission leak since the oil would run down the front of the tranny case and drip down from there so it initially it threw me off. If you look at the pan, where it bolts on, you should see the a bit of the gasket and it should be dry all around. If you see any wetness anywhere around the top of the pan, then you have a leak.

Manifolds -- if you are smelling exhaust, that is a sign. It's not easy to tell for sure. You can try from underneath to look under the heat shields using a good flashlight but the best way is to remove the heat shields, which is a pain in itself. The driver side heat shield is easy but you want to add a small amount of PB blaster overnight to the bots (don't overdue it because it will smoke up like crazy when you fire it back up). The passenger side is more painful. Best approach is from the wheel well after removing the side fender. My suggestion is to just look at the driver side. That's the one that is most likely to crack. If it is cracked, you might want to just do both sides. That's what I did and found the passenger side with a crack as well.

One other thought -- I have heard that if you SeaFoam it (slowly in to your vacuum line), you will see smoke come out of the cracked manifolds. I didn't try this and have no idea if it is in fact true but seems plausible.

EGR valve -- I'm doing this next weekend so any advice? It seems that it's most painful for automatics since there little space to operate so I'm hoping that it won't give me too much trouble with my manual transmission.
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:46 PM   #8
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Also, how about your catalytic converters? I'm starting to see a P0420 come up. Really hoping that it's that EGR valve and not the cats themselves. Ugh.
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:44 PM
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Just an update since I last posted.

Changed both front and rear diffs. While the gear oil color is not indicative of condition, both were pretty dirty looking. Maybe its my mind playing tricks, but it feels smoother now....

I also swapped out the PS flyid using a turkey baster method...pumped it out, filled with new ATF4, started the jeep, rotated steering wheel lock to lock 10x. Sucked out fluid and repeated the above 4 times. (3x should result in 95% fluid change. I did it 4x b/c I didnt want to have yet another open bottle of fluids around). Fluid was brown and felt a little gritty like it has suspended dirt. System is quieter now.

Cleaned the throttle body...it wasn't too bad, but there was carbon buildup on the edges that reduced the gap on a good portion....the gasket wasnt in too bad of shape, but I changed it anyway. Noticed a smoother idle, but not much else. As a heads up, be sure to get a 3$ Fel Pro gasket from Napa instead of the 16$ stealerźship part. Most of the autoparts stores have to special order them, so give a few days before tackling this 30min project.

I noticed some gouges on the inner portion of the housing. Im pretty sure they have been there since the last time I cleaned it. Ill post a photo later.

That's all for now...brakes, tranny, transfer case will be next week...

Plugs: the boots/plug wires are on good and tight...couldn't get them off or even twist the wire on the plug without damaging the plug wire. I need to pickup a puller - or have a shop swap them out when I drop it off to have a compression and leakdown test performed.

The smell of exhaust is pretty strong - I try to pull the shields after I get back from a 900 mile run to Idaho this weekend. I want to be sure there are cracks when I drop it off at the dealer for the wty repair (they are terrible and the next closest place is an hour away).

The EGR valved was replaced under the emissions wty...sorry I can't be of help.

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Old 02-25-2016, 07:58 PM   #10
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Looks like it's just the two of us on this track :-). Hopefully this info will help others when their JKs top 100k.

EGR valve was straight forward and definitely a good move since it was pretty fouled up. The MOPAR package came with only the bigger gasket (one that goes toward the manifold) but not the smaller one that goes to the tube. That gasket was in the worst shape. So something to keep in mind when ordering that you may want to also purchase the second gasket.

While I was in there I also replaced spark plugs and ignition wires.

Next up is the 2.5 lift and maybe swap out power steering fluid. I can't think of anything else??
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Old 02-26-2016, 11:58 AM
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Nice work man...how long did it take you?

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While I was in there I also replaced spark plugs and ignition wires.
How hard did you have to yank on the wires to get them off? Mine seem like they are really stuck on there...
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Old 02-26-2016, 12:15 PM
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Next up is the 2.5 lift and maybe swap out power steering fluid. I can't think of anything else??
Forgot to ask ya...which lift did you go with? Once I make up my mind, I see something else and change my mind again. Example: Really liking some of the JSPEC kits...

The fluid is an easy one...and made my system a bit quieter.

I just thought of something to look at - its the ground straps from the engine to the body/frame. I noticed some excessive headlight dimming (I have Cibies wired to a heavy duty relay harness, bypassing the factory TIPM). I put a current clamp on the alternator output, and it seems to be producing the current (responds well to loads, all the way up to ~120A - haven't tried to really push it yet).

Did ya grease the hinges yet and/or replace the bushings with delrin spacers? I did...and doors hang a bit better. My hinges bushings were in OK shape. JEEP WRANGLER JK, 2007 - PRESENT : TMR Customs, Custom Fabrication Components for Offroad Vehicles

Body Work - Have you painted underneath the door hinges yet?
I'm going to be repainting the hinges black (previous owner did a really bad job and never realigned the hings properly). Black hinges look good on Silver jeeps. I may just spring for the Black Stainless hinge set instead from Q-Tec...

What about behind the fenders? The fender/bady joint collect grit and with the wind vibrating the flares, causes some sanding to occur. Some have experienced rust, some don't. I need to replace some clips, so I plan on spraying some sealer/primer back there (and replacing all the clips once I can find a good source).

How is your AC blower doing? Mine is squeaking at low speeds...
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Old 02-26-2016, 02:07 PM   #13
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I am about to tackle alot of this myself. My 2008 JK has 101k on the odometer (bought with 80k)

I am currently this weekend replacing both front rotors and wheel bearings, wheel speed sensor went out on one side, it was impossible to get the new one in due to corrosion, so I figured it was time to bite the bullet and do it.

Brakes: Bought a caliper rebuilt kit for the front as well replace all the clips and the bushings. New pads of course. Calipers look ok.

Diffs: Changed oil in both font and rear. Regear is happening this summer along with sleeves and gussets. I have tossed around new axles, but I am not sure my wallet wants to take that much of a hit at once. So gears and those seals will be new soon.

Engine: Going to clean the throttle body soon. I think I notice a water leak around the water pump seal. I think I will just buy a whole new pump and replace since I am going to have it off to replace the seal anyway.
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Old 02-26-2016, 03:03 PM
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Welcome to the party.

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I am about to tackle alot of this myself. My 2008 JK has 101k on the odometer (bought with 80k)

I am currently this weekend replacing both front rotors and wheel bearings, wheel speed sensor went out on one side, it was impossible to get the new one in due to corrosion, so I figured it was time to bite the bullet and do it.

Brakes: Bought a caliper rebuilt kit for the front as well replace all the clips and the bushings. New pads of course. Calipers look ok.take a look at the Teraflex big rotor kit. Reuses all factory parts except a larger front rotor and it moves the caliper out - made a surprisingly big improvement for ~$230. - ya need 17s though.

Diffs: Changed oil in both font and rear. Regear is happening this summer along with sleeves and gussets. I have tossed around new axles, but I am not sure my wallet wants to take that much of a hit at once. So gears and those seals will be new soon.why do you need it? are they d44s? those can take lots of abuse.

Engine: Going to clean the throttle body soon. I think I notice a water leak around the water pump seal. I think I will just buy a whole new pump and replace since I am going to have it off to replace the seal anyway.good idea
I think the speed sensor is in the unit bearing assembly. I replaced both sides at 90k - developed a flat spot on passenger side that would only manifest during lateral loads (wind or turning). Also had intermittent ABS activation, so I changed both sides, Jeep is much smoother now.
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Old 02-26-2016, 03:29 PM   #15
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Welcome to the party.



I think the speed sensor is in the unit bearing assembly. I replaced both sides at 90k - developed a flat spot on passenger side that would only manifest during lateral loads (wind or turning). Also had intermittent ABS activation, so I changed both sides, Jeep is much smoother now.

My front is a D30. I do some rock crawling when I go to our offroad area, and we are planning a MOAB trip this coming September, so its cheap ($500) insurance.


How bad were your plugs, I just picked up a 6 pack of bosch plugs, thinking of doing wires as well. They seem....crusty..

And yes the speed sensors are in the bearings. I already replaced one, this past weekend.
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Old 02-26-2016, 09:33 PM   #16
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Nice work man...how long did it take you? How hard did you have to yank on the wires to get them off? Mine seem like they are really stuck on there...
Couple of hours but mostly because I spent a lot of time cleaning up the gunk where the EGR connects back in to manifold and I also retreaded the spark plug holes.

The ignition wires came out ok. I have a a set of ringnose pliers from HF that really help.

When I replaced my PCV valve though, that was painful. It was really stuck in there.
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Old 02-26-2016, 09:42 PM   #17
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Forgot to ask ya...which lift did you go with? ...
Teraflex 2.5 coil lift. That's the plan anyway. Let me know what you decide to do.

I had a really bad experience with a grounding bolt that came loose during a long drive and wrecked havoc. It fried my PCM and ended up being a very expensive mess for one tiny little screw. After that I went through the wiring diagrams (before Chrysler cut off access) and made sure everything was good.

Body work and hinges are in great shape. And I replaced my front bumper recently with a Barricade bumper so took time to clean everything out. May do the rear at some point too. Good suggestion.
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Old 02-26-2016, 09:49 PM   #18
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I am about to tackle alot of this myself. My 2008 JK has 101k on the odometer (bought with 80k) I am currently this weekend replacing both front rotors and wheel bearings, wheel speed sensor went out on one side, it was impossible to get the new one in due to corrosion, so I figured it was time to bite the bullet and do it. Brakes: Bought a caliper rebuilt kit for the front as well replace all the clips and the bushings. New pads of course. Calipers look ok. .
Teraflex is definitely a nice upgrade. I bought 4 slotted and drilled rotors and powerstop pads from BrakeMotive on eBay for $170 shipped. Can't be beat and several folks on this thread have high recommendations for these, which is what convinced me. So far so good. Easy install.
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Old 02-27-2016, 07:55 AM   #19
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Time for some pics

Some pics of the BrameMotive rotors and then my rig -- she looks pretty good for 141k don't you think?
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:09 AM   #20
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Some pics of the BrameMotive rotors and then my rig -- she looks pretty good for 141k don't you think?
Looks very good. I assume all the wheel bearings were new?
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Old 02-28-2016, 09:35 PM   #21
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Looks very good. I assume all the wheel bearings were new?
Still on the original wheel bearings actually which is shocking but they are doing fine. In fact I recently checked for these and ball joints. No play whatsoever. Keeping my fingers crossed!
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Old 02-29-2016, 02:39 AM
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Unit bearings should last a really long time...wheel bearings fail because of seal issues or shock loading. Flat spots form in bearings from a shock loading event (not sure what the technical name is)...this occurs when ya hit something hard and the suspension doesnt absorb the impact properly. Learned this in my old suburban with failed bump stops, little/no suspension travel, and tired springs. In my case, Im pretty sure it happened when I hit a nasty road culvert on my trip through Nevada. Hit it hard enough that I was convinced I bent the axle.

My ball joints were literally fine for 50k miles and then I went through 3 sets in 30k. Still using factory since they're replaced under Max Care wty.

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Old 02-29-2016, 06:19 AM   #23
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Still on the original wheel bearings actually which is shocking but they are doing fine. In fact I recently checked for these and ball joints. No play whatsoever. Keeping my fingers crossed!
I am having mine replaced when I regear they will remove them to weld gussets anyway. So its free installation, probably worth 200 bucks. Going with synergy BJs. Hopefully last time I ever have to do it.
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Old 02-29-2016, 01:56 PM   #24
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Good info fellas.

I was just looking at the synergy ball joints but saw that teraflex has them now as well and with a lifetime warranty. Dunno. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Lift is next up for me and I might decide to tackle bearings and ball joins then as well.
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Old 03-16-2016, 06:21 PM   #25
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TB Cleaning -- additional steps

Just an update on additional steps in cleaning out the TB:

(1) Replace the TB gasket (I didn't do this the first time I cleaned it -- part # 4666113AA).

(2) Get inside the Intake Manifold and clean that too; I used very long pliers with blue paper towels and carburetor cleaner. It was fairly dirty in there. I used over half the roll just to get it semi decent. Make sure to use something that doesn't leave anything behind since that could get sucked in to engine.

(3) Look at the IAT Sensor. Pull it out from the air hose and inspect it. I replaced mine (part # 4606487AB) since it had this weird white gummy stuff at the tip (see pic).

(4) Clean or replace MAP sensor (part # 5033310AC) too; twist it counter clockwise and pull up. That was pretty gunked up as well.
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Old 07-13-2016, 11:03 AM   #26
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Hey guys, looking at replacing the gasket on my oil pan this weekend when I do my oil change. Napa has the gasket but there is an important note listed on the website for the part. Important Information: Upper; RTV Sealant Not Included for Lower Oil Pan Gasket; w/ PermaDry Molded Rubber Gasket
Not sure what this means. Do I need RTV sealant in addition to the gasket?
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Old 07-14-2016, 09:08 AM   #27
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Hey guys, looking at replacing the gasket on my oil pan this weekend when I do my oil change. Napa has the gasket but there is an important note listed on the website for the part. Important Information: Upper; RTV Sealant Not Included for Lower Oil Pan Gasket; w/ PermaDry Molded Rubber Gasket
Not sure what this means. Do I need RTV sealant in addition to the gasket?
Ok, so I got a little ahead of myself. Went Napa Auto Parts and looked at the gasket and instructions say to not use with any other sealant. So I'm not really sure why the informational note was on the website. Got the gasket and will swap out this weekend. Anyone know the torque spec on the oil pan bolts?
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Old 07-17-2016, 03:47 PM   #28
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OK, I believe I figured out the gasket situation. There is an upper and lower portion of the oil pan. The gasket that I got from the parts store is the upper that's in between the block and spacer, and the lower (pan gasket)just uses RTV sealant based on my research. Has anyone serviced both the upper and lower areas of the oil pan? I want to clean up the area and hopefully fix the tiny oil leak and I believe changing both gaskets is the best route. Looking for guidance on this task. Looks like I'd need to remove the part in the picture (not sure what its called) to get at the upper spacer and gasket. I'd like to be well informed before taking on this task. Anyone done this service that can offer advice?
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