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Old 07-27-2015, 11:03 AM
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2014 JKU: Easiest Oil Change, Ever

I did my first oil change on my Wrangler this weekend. Seriously, that cartridge filter, right up top and in front, is amazingly convenient. Clean and easy. All cars and trucks should have 'em!

Now if someone could come up with a way to keep me from having to crawl up under it to drain the oil....

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Old 07-27-2015, 11:10 AM   #2
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Use a vacuum attachment through dipstick filler and suck it out. Many do. I think I recall some Euro cars like BMW now don't even have drain plug and this is how they do it.

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Old 07-27-2015, 11:20 AM   #3
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I have a vacuum oil sucker to do oil changes on my boat. Quick and no mess, no crawling. However my dealer has a $16 oil change deal so I've never changed the oil in the Jeep myself.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:44 AM
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I've used the vacuum thing on my boat engines (no way to access a drain plug) and they work well. I don't really mind getting underneath cars to get at the drain plug .... I think I get a more complete oil drain that way, and it gives me the opportunity to look around underneath and check for anything that looks amiss. Although some are easier to get under than others! The Wrangler is at a comfortable height.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:47 AM
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Also, I use synthetic in all my motors and I'm not willing to pay the synthetic upcharge at the oil change places (like, double the retail value of the oil) so that's why I try to do all my oil changes myself.
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:08 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Zaphod B View Post
I did my first oil change on my Wrangler this weekend. Seriously, that cartridge filter, right up top and in front, is amazingly convenient. Clean and easy. All cars and trucks should have 'em!

Now if someone could come up with a way to keep me from having to crawl up under it to drain the oil....
That oil filter design and location is really nice. Same as on the VW Passat diesel, by the way. I'm hoping we don't start seeing more cracked filter housings as some are having.

As far as getting the drain plug, at least I can just slide under there and do it with no jack. I used the vacuum system in the dipstick hole on my Passat because there was a large belly pan that had to come off to get to the drain plug, but I never knew if I was getting it all and it was slow. The Jeep is the easiest oil change on any vehicle I've had.
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:20 PM   #7
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The Subbie FB2.5 is even easier. Spin on mounted driver side front of engine. No cover to lift up, no funky plastic housing that might break.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:00 PM
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The Subbie FB2.5 is even easier. Spin on mounted driver side front of engine. No cover to lift up, no funky plastic housing that might break.
Cool. After reading all the posts on the boards about the plastic cartridge housing, I was impressed to find that it actually appears very robust. It's some kind of composite, not ABS, and has good wall thickness and the threads appear idiot-proof. I guess the risk is over torqueing the cap. I can see breaking the thing if you put the "normal" amount of grunt on it.

I did check the boards before getting into it, and found the torque value of 18 ft-lbs to be just past the point of snugly tightened - it felt just right.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:45 PM   #9
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Put a Fumoto drain valve on it and you'll be even more amazed....
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:21 PM   #10
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Cool. After reading all the posts on the boards about the plastic cartridge housing, I was impressed to find that it actually appears very robust. It's some kind of composite, not ABS, and has good wall thickness and the threads appear idiot-proof. I guess the risk is over torqueing the cap. I can see breaking the thing if you put the "normal" amount of grunt on it.

I did check the boards before getting into it, and found the torque value of 18 ft-lbs to be just past the point of snugly tightened - it felt just right.
I torque everything. The 18ft-lbs was above the range of my small wrench and on the lower end of my medium wrench. I was surprised how little force it took to hit 18. I think people are just plain over torquing them.

I work in an industry with a rather 'old' work force. We do onsite rebuild of some rather precision hubs on large haul trucks. The guys were resistant to establishing a quality torque tool aquisition and maintenance program. Some of the beat up tools looked like they were first aquired right about the time NASA was perfecting the Saturn V. Part of my efforts to convince them, to get labor buy in, was a torquing demo station that measured actual applied torque to a fastener. Surprisingly, most of the guys were within 15-20% of the nominal value. I started heckling the one guy who had a reputation as a hot head, right before he tried the demo station. He tested at 300% of the nominal value!! He said he didn't think he twisted the wrench that hard at all! The point is, 'human torque' is not repeatable.
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:36 PM   #11
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Also, as part of the torque conversation, the torque on the cap has nothing to do with sealing the oil. The cap has a skirt that travels down over the O-ring to trap it. It's not squeezed by torque on the cap, it's trapped between an inner and outer cylinder area. Once the cap has the ring trapped, it can't back off on it's own because the friction of the ring prevents it.

So, just tightening it to the point where it stops is fine. Definitely do not overdo it! That part is a know weak point.
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:57 PM
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Also, as part of the torque conversation, the torque on the cap has nothing to do with sealing the oil. The cap has a skirt that travels down over the O-ring to trap it. It's not squeezed by torque on the cap, it's trapped between an inner and outer cylinder area. Once the cap has the ring trapped, it can't back off on it's own because the friction of the ring prevents it.

So, just tightening it to the point where it stops is fine. Definitely do not overdo it! That part is a know weak point.
Right, looking at the cap and the O-ring, you can see that it's actually the O-ring that prevents leakage, not the tightness of the cap. I think the 18 ft-lb value is just enough to prevent the cap from backing out. It's a good design - as long as the knuckleheads keep the breaker bars away!
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Old 07-28-2015, 01:50 PM
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Put a Fumoto drain valve on it and you'll be even more amazed....
I totally missed this yesterday.

Holy crap, that is a great idea - thanks for posting!
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Old 07-28-2015, 07:09 PM   #14
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Put a Fumoto drain valve on it and you'll be even more amazed....
I've got one of these Fumoto valves on my workbench, just waiting to go in the Jeep. Really cool.

I have a Fumoto on my race car, too. The race car, a 90's BMW, has a top mount cartridge filter like the JK. With my home built ramps (it's too low to fit normal ramps), I can have my oil changed in 5 minutes without even changing clothes. The particular Fumoto I have on the BMW has a short extension tube that directs the initial oil squirt, so my fingers don't even get oily opening it.

I've had so many previous cars that were a total PITA to change the oil on. For example, I once had a car where filter was next to the exhaust manifold and if you didn't burn your arm removing the filter, you'd certainly spill oil all over the manifold.

It befuddles me that some brand's engine engineers took so long to come around to making changing oil easy.
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Old 07-29-2015, 02:50 PM   #15
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The Subbie FB2.5 is even easier. Spin on mounted driver side front of engine. No cover to lift up, no funky plastic housing that might break.
^ this

I added the Fumoto Oil valve when I installed my Primitive Racing Armor. Push on tube open valve drains into a jug. CAKE.

Gonna add a Fumoto to the JK at first oil change.
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:54 PM   #16
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It was my lucky, day, installed and ended up right side up.

IMG_3834 by Reed Rothchild, on Flickr

Next up, Oil pan skid.
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Old 07-29-2015, 05:28 PM   #17
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It was my lucky, day, installed and ended up right side up.


Next up, Oil pan skid.
Unless you never go off road, I would highly advise you to put a skid plate over that.

Could you imagine catching it on a rock and not know it and drive off into no mans land only to discover the light come on the dash to tell you you have a major issue, like no oil.
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Old 07-29-2015, 09:42 PM   #18
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Unless you never go off road, I would highly advise you to put a skid plate over that.

Could you imagine catching it on a rock and not know it and drive off into no mans land only to discover the light come on the dash to tell you you have a major issue, like no oil.
Yeah, I think the skid plate was on his radar since he actually state that in his post.
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Old 07-29-2015, 10:34 PM   #19
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Yeah, I think the skid plate was on his radar since he actually state that in his post.
Right
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:50 PM   #20
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I've had so many previous cars that were a total PITA to change the oil on. For example, I once had a car where filter was next to the exhaust manifold and if you didn't burn your arm removing the filter, you'd certainly spill oil all over the manifold.
90s Chevy 3100. What a mess that was. There was a little ramp to collect the spillage, but it wasn't even positioned to catch it all. Pretty sure that entire engine program was staffed by monkeys on typewriters.
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Old 07-30-2015, 02:04 PM   #21
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I'm getting frogfab.com full skids installed Monday. It's a local fabrication shop so I'm going to give them my business.

I saw their transfer case skid when I stopped by today and it seriously looks like it should be painted yellow with Caterpillar stickers on it.
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:18 PM   #22
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I've used Fumoto valves on my Cummins Ram's since '95.
Also used No-Spill.
The No-Spill might be better for an oil pan skid plate.
Check it out here.
https://www.nospillsystems.com/index.cfm

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