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Old 02-21-2016, 11:59 AM
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Question 2015 JKUR - Rock Krawler Lift advice - 2.5" mid arm

So this past summer I bought a new 2015 JKUR (automatic, 4.11's). I've wanted a jeep for years and finally got one, so this is my first.
Only two things on it that aren't stock so far: Ace Rock Sliders, and a BesTop TrekTop NX (premium/twill material) - really happy with both so far.


I've been putting away cash for a lift, and I'm just about ready to pull the trigger. I've spent a lot of time reading/researching... A lot of that has been right here on the forums, and I can't overstate how valuable everyobdy's experience here is, not to mention the vendors themselves who post up some really good technical info from time to time (maybe someone from Rock Krawler is even reading this and can help me out ;-) ). So thanks to everyone who's been willing to share their knowledge and experience - it's a hugely valuable resource for newbs.

Anyway, on to build the ideas/questions... Even though I'm only looking at lifts right now, these are some of the things I'm ultimately hoping to do, in case any of it helps or figures into lift/suspension choices:
  • Smittybilt XRC Mod front bumper with Stinger
  • 35" Nittos
  • 10K winch, haven't decided on specific model yet
  • Roof rack
  • Rear bumper/tire carrier - still have more research to do here, between fastback fit and roof rack integration
  • Flat fenders (already have a small dent in my rear driver side fender from bumping a tree out on the trail at night, doh!)

So, at this point I am looking at getting an RK 2.5" mid-arm lift. It sounds like this is the sweet spot to get decent lift without having to go into serious caster/suspension adjustments. This is my DD, so I'm not willing to throw away road performance/safety for the sake of the wheeling I do - at least not for now.

I've decided that I want to get Rancho RS9000XL adjustable shocks (29 front, 30 rear) instead of the ones that come with the RK kits - that means I need to stick with the lesser package of whichever kit I end up picking, so I don't have to pay for the included shocks.

It looks like there are three kits I could potentially go with: Stock Mod, Flex, and Max Travel.

The first problem I'm seeing with this is that none of the lesser packages for any of these kits come with bump stops, which I assume I will eventually need with 35's, so should I buy bump stops separately?

The Stock Mod system looks pretty attractive just based on price alone, but it doesn't come with the high clearance front CAs, which I feel like will be pretty important to have on the trail. Right? (planning on wheeling on rocks and hills mostly)

If that's the case, I'd be looking at the Flex or Max Travel, which leads to three other questions:
  1. These kits both come with sway bar disco's, which I already have on the Rubi. Do I have to replace my elec Rubi disco's with these new extended linkages (hope not), or are these unneccessary for rubi's?
  2. Biggest difference between Flex and Max Travel is Max Travel comes with adjustable Rear UCAs - are rear upper CAs worth spending a little more cash on for a 2.5" lift? What exactly will they gain me when wheeling?
  3. Brake lines. Do I need the new brake lines that come with these 2.5" kits? The Stock Mod doesn't come with them....

Honestly, aside from the obvious difference in individual parts that come with these, I am having a hard time understanding exactly what is gained/lost in practical terms between these kits - it's a little confusing the way they are packaged, and there's no real explanation on their site that I've been able to find (which is probably fine since most people shopping these probably already know what they're doing =\ ).

Why does the 2.5" Stock Mod not come with brake lines, Flex comes with only Front, and Max Travel comes with all new brake lines? Does the Stock Mod actually give you less flex than the other two kits, because the sway bar isn't extended and you're stuck with the stock CAs? Do I simply need longer brake lines to match the CAs because the new CAs travel farther? How much do the Rancho shocks and possibly bump stocks figure into this equation?


So, apologies for the extremely long post here - erring on the side of being really thorough is a habit (sometimes fault) of mine. But thanks for taking the time to read, and any guidance, advice, or experience you're willing to share would be super appreciated. I'm ready to buy a lift and have it installed so I can be ready to get out on the trails in the spring!

Thanks everybody - and looking forward to continuing the conversation on the rest of my build.

-newb

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Old 02-21-2016, 11:35 PM   #2
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I'm going through the same decision, myself, and have learned a little:

With the stock mod, you'll need to figure out some thing for castor correction, as that's what the lower CAs do in the higher end kits.

The discos will allow more articulation than the stock disconnect, and can be used on a Rubi.

The consensus seems to be that you don't need to worry about pinion angle correction (at least on a JKU), so the upper rear CAs aren't really necessary.

Brake line length is probably dependant on your shock length, but I much prefer braided metal lines to the stock rubber ones, so that's reason enough to get them, IMHO.

Mark

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Old 02-21-2016, 11:42 PM   #3
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good choice on and off road.
Stock brake lines are plenty long even with 27.5" long front shocks and 28.2 long rear shocks just pry the fronts from the brackets and zip tie them to the shocks and use a rear relocation bracket. 2" bump stops front and rear. I did not like the RK front track bar and replaced it with a Teraflex monster track bar which is a breeze to adjust. I also used the TF rear track bar bracket. I run TF control arms as well but any will be good. Mine is incredibly nice on and off road. one finger steering at 85mph. I replaced the front driveshaft but an exhaust spacer would work. I was running rancho 5000X which were great but now run bilstien 5100's which are great too. this on a 14jkur.

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Old 02-22-2016, 12:53 AM   #4
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I went with the stock mod with bilstein 5100s. I got about 3 inches with stock bumpers. I went with AEV geo brackets but it sounds like you need more ground clearance. Like one of the other guys said I don't really like to front trackbar, it's solid but I just don't like the jam nuts on it and will probably change it to the teraflex. Look at the kits on northridge I'm not sure if you can get them with ranchos but it's a nice compete kit for a good price.
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Old 02-22-2016, 06:16 AM   #6
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About a month ago I had my Rock Krawler 2.5" flex lift installed. I have the Rancho 9000 shocks, bump stops, new brake lines. I gained a little over 3" of lift front and rear. I also put on 35" Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ tires and new wheels. I love the way the Jeep drives with this setup. It accelerates just like stock, turns are much tighter, and there is no nose dive under heavy braking. I'm very happy with this setup and the Jeep looks great.
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:07 AM   #7
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How about taking a look at Kjeeper10's thread...

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/mo...f-1136938.html

Tons of good info. Sounds like what you are looking for, lift-wise, falls perfectly into the info in there. Although it initially talks about the Teraflex coils, if you want RK's, the vendors can and will substitute them for you. They monitor that thread and are great at working with WF members to put together a really good lift at a very reasonable price.

Good luck, and you HAVE to post up pics when you get it done
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proudowner2015 View Post
<snip>

So, at this point I am looking at getting an RK 2.5" mid-arm lift. It sounds like this is the sweet spot to get decent lift without having to go into serious caster/suspension adjustments. This is my DD, so I'm not willing to throw away road performance/safety for the sake of the wheeling I do - at least not for now.

I've decided that I want to get Rancho RS9000XL adjustable shocks (29 front, 30 rear) instead of the ones that come with the RK kits - that means I need to stick with the lesser package of whichever kit I end up picking, so I don't have to pay for the included shocks.

It looks like there are three kits I could potentially go with: Stock Mod, Flex, and Max Travel.

The first problem I'm seeing with this is that none of the lesser packages for any of these kits come with bump stops, which I assume I will eventually need with 35's, so should I buy bump stops separately?

The Stock Mod system looks pretty attractive just based on price alone, but it doesn't come with the high clearance front CAs, which I feel like will be pretty important to have on the trail. Right? (planning on wheeling on rocks and hills mostly)

If that's the case, I'd be looking at the Flex or Max Travel, which leads to three other questions:
  1. These kits both come with sway bar disco's, which I already have on the Rubi. Do I have to replace my elec Rubi disco's with these new extended linkages (hope not), or are these unneccessary for rubi's?
  2. Biggest difference between Flex and Max Travel is Max Travel comes with adjustable Rear UCAs - are rear upper CAs worth spending a little more cash on for a 2.5" lift? What exactly will they gain me when wheeling?
  3. Brake lines. Do I need the new brake lines that come with these 2.5" kits? The Stock Mod doesn't come with them....

Honestly, aside from the obvious difference in individual parts that come with these, I am having a hard time understanding exactly what is gained/lost in practical terms between these kits - it's a little confusing the way they are packaged, and there's no real explanation on their site that I've been able to find (which is probably fine since most people shopping these probably already know what they're doing =\ ).

Why does the 2.5" Stock Mod not come with brake lines, Flex comes with only Front, and Max Travel comes with all new brake lines? Does the Stock Mod actually give you less flex than the other two kits, because the sway bar isn't extended and you're stuck with the stock CAs? Do I simply need longer brake lines to match the CAs because the new CAs travel farther? How much do the Rancho shocks and possibly bump stocks figure into this equation?

<snip>
-newb
I shrunk it down a little to hit the hot spots.. By the way, nice start on your build. A 2.5 with 35's and flat fenders is one of the most capable builds you can do without going nuts.

I suggest you go up to the 31 front shocks as the free length of the RK springs is perfect for the longer shocks and it gives you more droop with no loss of up travel. You will need exhaust spacers with either one...

You do need to buy bump stops. I'd suggest that you buy an adjustable bump stop kit, like the Metalcloaks. With that setup, you will be maximizing flex and adjustable bump stops will help you do that.

Definitely go at least with the Flex kit. You need the adjustable front lower control arms to correct caster after lifting and the high clearance is just a bonus. If you do the stock mod, you need to buy something for caster correction anyways...

Of off memory... I believe RK recommends that you manually disconnect if you expect full flex. The E-Disco isn't really capable of the amount of travel you get in an optimized lifted Jeep. Quite a few of the crew I Jeep with use their E-Disco about 80% of the time, but if they get to a BIG obstacle, they manually disco.

Rear uppers allow you to adjust your pinion angle, but on a 4dr at 2.5 it really isn't an issue.

The brake lines need to be removed from the factory mounts in front and need a drop bracket in the rear, but are plenty long enough in most set ups.

Bump stops perform 2 functions, they protect your shock from bottoming out and your tires from getting in to your fenders. An optimized set up has both of those things almost happening when you hit your bump stops... You could just put 3" in front and 2" in rear and have it covered, or you could put in 2" in front and 1" in rear and cycle the suspension and if your shocks are not bottomed, you picked up more suspension travel. That's what @jadmt and I run with basically the same length shocks.
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Old 02-22-2016, 05:26 PM   #9
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Pressurized covered most of what I would tell you as well. We do have some package deals available on our website that include the Rancho shocks and I would definitely go with the longer length since the RK coils will allow for a good amount of droop. Here is a link to one of our Flex packages and if you want to change things that aren't listed give me a call at 866-601-5340

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Old 02-22-2016, 08:40 PM
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Awesome sauce, this is great info, exactly what I was looking for, thank you. :thumbsup:

Will reply directly to a couple of these where I have questions, but wanted to thank everybody for taking the time to read and respond with some good info.

Glad to know I came to the right place, thanks everybody!
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ScaldedDog View Post
I'm going through the same decision, myself, and have learned a little:

With the stock mod, you'll need to figure out some thing for castor correction, as that's what the lower CAs do in the higher end kits.
Good advice - sounds like I was wrong on my thinking that I wouldn't need anything for castor, and based on the consensus here, I may end up going with a Flex system at least for this reason if nothing else.

Quote:
The discos will allow more articulation than the stock disconnect, and can be used on a Rubi.
Hmm, does this mean losing my elec discos completely and going to strictly manual? Not a big deal, but having that button sure is nice sometimes. :-)

Quote:
Brake line length is probably dependant on your shock length, but I much prefer braided metal lines to the stock rubber ones, so that's reason enough to get them, IMHO.
Fair point. Another mark in favor of bumping up to a Flex package at least... Maybe not a strong mark, but braided metal lines do seem like they'd be a little more rugged.
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:53 PM   #12
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Hmm, does this mean losing my elec discos completely and going to strictly manual? Not a big deal, but having that button sure is nice sometimes. :-)
No, the E-Disco still works as intended. You just get a little more out of the system when you manually disconnect for max flex.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:18 PM
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good choice on and off road.
Stock brake lines are plenty long even with 27.5" long front shocks and 28.2 long rear shocks just pry the fronts from the brackets and zip tie them to the shocks and use a rear relocation bracket. 2" bump stops front and rear. I did not like the RK front track bar and replaced it with a Teraflex monster track bar which is a breeze to adjust. I also used the TF rear track bar bracket. I run TF control arms as well but any will be good. Mine is incredibly nice on and off road. one finger steering at 85mph. I replaced the front driveshaft but an exhaust spacer would work. I was running rancho 5000X which were great but now run bilstien 5100's which are great too. this on a 14jkur.
Thanks for all the info, this is awesome, and brand names aside, sounds like almost exactly what I am going for (between you and Pressurized, I think I may be wrapping this up and dropping some money pretty quickly).

On the rear bracket, I have read some folks saying they thought it should be welded on to be durable (referring to the RK bracket), which surprised me. Did you weld your TF bracket on or just bolt it up?

I honestly didn't think I was going to need exhaust spacers at all - definitely glad to know this so I can order some up front.

Awesome jeep btw, I like your wheels.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chasemccl View Post
I went with the stock mod with bilstein 5100s. I got about 3 inches with stock bumpers. I went with AEV geo brackets but it sounds like you need more ground clearance. Like one of the other guys said I don't really like to front trackbar, it's solid but I just don't like the jam nuts on it and will probably change it to the teraflex. Look at the kits on northridge I'm not sure if you can get them with ranchos but it's a nice compete kit for a good price.
Thanks, will check them out.

Is that 3" with stock bumpers or with something heavier?
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:30 PM
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^^Disregard the last question, I don't read so well...

(and I can't figure out how to edit my post - is that disabled here?)
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:40 PM
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How about taking a look at Kjeeper10's thread...

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/mo...f-1136938.html

Tons of good info. Sounds like what you are looking for, lift-wise, falls perfectly into the info in there. Although it initially talks about the Teraflex coils, if you want RK's, the vendors can and will substitute them for you. They monitor that thread and are great at working with WF members to put together a really good lift at a very reasonable price.

Good luck, and you HAVE to post up pics when you get it done
Thanks! I've definitely read Kjeeper's thread there - in fact, I believe that is what originally turned me on to the Ranchos.

Didn't realize the vendors kept such a keen eye out though. I will definitely post pics - I appreciate the warm welcome here and more than happy to share.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:52 PM   #17
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I just installed a RK flex kit "customizable" two weeks ago and I am happy, but not entirely happy with it. I'd strongly recommend reading Pressurized's "building Papa Smurf" build thread.

These are my comments...

I'd run BFG 35/12.5r17 instead of 315/70r17 Duratracs for sidewall strength. I was looking for a smallish, light, non E rated 35".

JKS or Teraflex front track bar but the RK seems fine.

Love the RK 2.5" progressive springs

I ordered 2" RK bump stops front and back then added hockey pucks sawn to 1/2". I can remove the pucks easily and saw them down, remove, replace or add for infinite adjustment WITHOUT removing the front coils. This was Pressurized's idea.

I am currently running stock HR rims with 1.5 spacers. Eventually I'd like to upgrade to AEV saltas to keep the tires tucked. However, this is NOT compatible with the RK front adjustable LCAs. They have a bend for increased ground clearance not the usual bend for tire clearance. So my setup rubs tire on control arm. It would be even worse with the AEV 5.2 back spacing. I am thinking about bailing on the RK LCAs and buying brackets. If you are planning on 4.5" BS it is a moot point. If, I had it to do over, and I may, in order to maintain ground clearance, maximize ease of installation and maximize tire clearance I'd recommend fixed LCAs like Teraflex that jadmt uses or Synergy that Pressurised uses.

I have the "old" RK rear track bar bracket which is weld-on and is a another step that is not easily reversible. Recently they switched to a bolt-on bracket. So that's good and wish the vendor had told me this 6 weeks ago. Regardless, it raised my axle rear track bar mount 3" and restored my roll axis. In the end both axles were centered under the jeep within an 1/8" with no further adjustment. Still need to get my bracket welded.

The RK flex kit does not replace the rear sway bar links because "the stockers are adequate". This is not true unless you want the rear sway bar angled down about 30 degrees. I will be upgrading these as well.

I really like the Rancho 9000xls. I painted mine red to match the old stock shocks and like the look. Currently experimenting with the shock adjustments.

Finally, I was,able to pick up a set Of JKS flex connect front sway bar links and thus may have no use of the RK adjustable links included in the Flex kit.

Overall though my ride is improved over stock but I've not had it off-road or flexed yet. Hope this helps.

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Old 02-22-2016, 09:58 PM   #18
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Oh, I installed the Teraflex exhaust spacer kit and Crown red SS brake lines.

Jam nuts are a pain in the arse. Almost not worth it.
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Old 02-22-2016, 10:08 PM   #19
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Thanks for all the info, this is awesome, and brand names aside, sounds like almost exactly what I am going for (between you and Pressurized, I think I may be wrapping this up and dropping some money pretty quickly).

On the rear bracket, I have read some folks saying they thought it should be welded on to be durable (referring to the RK bracket), which surprised me. Did you weld your TF bracket on or just bolt it up?

I honestly didn't think I was going to need exhaust spacers at all - definitely glad to know this so I can order some up front.

Awesome jeep btw, I like your wheels.
tera flex bracket bolts on and is solid. I have a rubicon and in most situations the electro discos are adequate. If you do want max flex disco one side with manuals. I went this route and while not cheap money well spent.

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Old 02-22-2016, 10:27 PM
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I shrunk it down a little to hit the hot spots.. By the way, nice start on your build. A 2.5 with 35's and flat fenders is one of the most capable builds you can do without going nuts.
Dude, First off, thank you for the great reply.

Second, I was about to reply to this, and then I got sidetracked when I clicked the link in your sig and started reading your Building Papa Smurf thread...

Now I have MORE questions instead of fewer!!!! >=E

This is a good thing though, just a lot to digest. Phew.

Quote:
I suggest you go up to the 31 front shocks as the free length of the RK springs is perfect for the longer shocks and it gives you more droop with no loss of up travel. You will need exhaust spacers with either one...
Don't need to twist my arm, sold.

Quote:
You do need to buy bump stops. I'd suggest that you buy an adjustable bump stop kit, like the Metalcloaks. With that setup, you will be maximizing flex and adjustable bump stops will help you do that.
Sounds good. I like the idea of the hockey pucks too, but seems like a bit more than I'm willing to bite off when there is an "adjustable" option. :-)

Quote:
Definitely go at least with the Flex kit. You need the adjustable front lower control arms to correct caster after lifting and the high clearance is just a bonus. If you do the stock mod, you need to buy something for caster correction anyways...
Again, sold. I think this is completely justified based on what you and others have said.
Although I noticed in your PS build thread, you used adjustable uppers and fixed lowers - do you still think that's the sweet spot for caster on a 2.5"?

Quote:
Of off memory... I believe RK recommends that you manually disconnect if you expect full flex. The E-Disco isn't really capable of the amount of travel you get in an optimized lifted Jeep. Quite a few of the crew I Jeep with use their E-Disco about 80% of the time, but if they get to a BIG obstacle, they manually disco.


Quote:
The brake lines need to be removed from the factory mounts in front and need a drop bracket in the rear, but are plenty long enough in most set ups.
This is what I've heard everyone say so I'm going to go with it... but if I get the Flex I may have a couple of braided lines just in case.

Quote:
Bump stops perform 2 functions, they protect your shock from bottoming out and your tires from getting in to your fenders. An optimized set up has both of those things almost happening when you hit your bump stops... You could just put 3" in front and 2" in rear and have it covered, or you could put in 2" in front and 1" in rear and cycle the suspension and if your shocks are not bottomed, you picked up more suspension travel. That's what @jadmt and I run with basically the same length shocks.
Perfect. It sounds like jadmt ended up with 2" in front and back, so I am leaning more towards this to play it safe atm...

Thanks again - off to read more Papa Smurf build thread now...
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Old 02-22-2016, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Northridge4x4 View Post
Pressurized covered most of what I would tell you as well. We do have some package deals available on our website that include the Rancho shocks and I would definitely go with the longer length since the RK coils will allow for a good amount of droop. Here is a link to one of our Flex packages and if you want to change things that aren't listed give me a call at 866-601-5340

Rock Krawler JK 2.5 Flex System Kit, 4 Door - JK25FS-4KIT

-Tim
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Old 02-22-2016, 10:58 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Lysdexic View Post
I am currently running stock HR rims with 1.5 spacers. Eventually I'd like to upgrade to AEV saltas to keep the tires tucked. However, this is NOT compatible with the RK front adjustable LCAs. They have a bend for increased ground clearance not the usual bend for tire clearance. So my setup rubs tire on control arm. It would be even worse with the AEV 5.2 back spacing. I am thinking about bailing on the RK LCAs and buying brackets. If you are planning on 4.5" BS it is a moot point.
I posted over in your build thread, but then re-read this. I thought, and I have a feeling I'm about to be corrected, that the stock wheels have 6" of BS, and so with spacers end up with an effective 4.5". No?

Great screen name, BTW. And hysterical.

Mark
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Old 02-22-2016, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Lysdexic View Post
I just installed a RK flex kit "customizable" two weeks ago and I am happy, but not entirely happy with it. I'd strongly recommend reading Pressurized's "building Papa Smurf" build thread.
Funny, I stumbled across that and was reading it when you posted this. Some great info there...

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Love the RK 2.5" progressive springs
Perfect, this seems to be the consensus, it sounds like between these and the Ranchos I can get a great ride and good performance off-road in the same box.

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I ordered 2" RK bump stops front and back then added hockey pucks sawn to 1/2". I can remove the pucks easily and saw them down, remove, replace or add for infinite adjustment WITHOUT removing the front coils. This was Pressurized's idea.
Now this does sound like the sweet spot. Do these trim down with a hand saw/hacksaw?

Quote:
I am currently running stock HR rims with 1.5 spacers. Eventually I'd like to upgrade to AEV saltas to keep the tires tucked. However, this is NOT compatible with the RK front adjustable LCAs. They have a bend for increased ground clearance not the usual bend for tire clearance. So my setup rubs tire on control arm. It would be even worse with the AEV 5.2 back spacing. I am thinking about bailing on the RK LCAs and buying brackets. If you are planning on 4.5" BS it is a moot point. If, I had it to do over, and I may, in order to maintain ground clearance, maximize ease of installation and maximize tire clearance I'd recommend fixed LCAs like Teraflex that jadmt uses or Synergy that Pressurised uses.
This is where I need to do more research. I'm not even sure which wheels I eventually want to get, and not really sure how to figure out the backspacing I need. The Nitto 35s have really caught my eye though, and I've been thinking about dropping down to a 15" wheel for better off-roading - plus they look pretty mean when they're all squat and chubby.

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I have the "old" RK rear track bar bracket which is weld-on and is a another step that is not easily reversible. Recently they switched to a bolt-on bracket. So that's good and wish the vendor had told me this 6 weeks ago. Regardless, it raised my axle rear track bar mount 3" and restored my roll axis. In the end both axles were centered under the jeep within an 1/8" with no further adjustment. Still need to get my bracket welded.
This cleared up some confusion for me, thanks.

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The RK flex kit does not replace the rear sway bar links because "the stockers are adequate". This is not true unless you want the rear sway bar angled down about 30 degrees. I will be upgrading these as well.
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I really like the Rancho 9000xls. I painted mine red to match the old stock shocks and like the look. Currently experimenting with the shock adjustments.
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Finally, I was,able to pick up a set Of JKS flex connect front sway bar links and thus may have no use of the RK adjustable links included in the Flex kit.
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Overall though my ride is improved over stock but I've not had it off-road or flexed yet. Hope this helps.
Scott
This is great info, nothing like the voice of experience, thank you.
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Old 02-23-2016, 07:23 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by ScaldedDog View Post
I posted over in your build thread, but then re-read this. I thought, and I have a feeling I'm about to be corrected, that the stock wheels have 6" of BS, and so with spacers end up with an effective 4.5". No?

Great screen name, BTW. And hysterical.

Mark
Stock BS = 6.25".

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Old 02-23-2016, 07:40 AM   #25
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The 1/2 hockey puck is awesome! I was going to use a hole saw and make a piece of 3/8 aluminum to put on top of mine, like a giant fender washer, since I did get a small fender rub for the first time last week. Wheel was turned just right, nothing major but with stock fenders, there is a lot less clearance...

I don't like the 15's with factory fenders, the back spacing is too low and the look is just off for me. But with flats it changes to one of my favorite looks. The big fender gap makes it look good. (purely opinion)

Truthfully, I was on the fence on my lower arms. Geo brackets were an option since the Jeep is my wifes DD. I knew that I might flip flop so I was keeping the investment economical. Once I was comfortable with the arms instead of brackets, I wanted a higher performance bushing than the TF's had and ended up with the Synergy's Dual Durometer bushings. Very happy with my choice and since I sold the TF's for what I paid for them, no loss.


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Originally Posted by dvn4life1972 View Post
Stock BS = 6.25".
Yep, with spacers you get 4.75" back spacing.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:45 AM
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After reading lysdexic's post I did a little searching, and there are a lot of people with wheel rub on these RK front LCAs. Most of them seem to be running 37s, but there are a few 35s out there.

Should I be worried about this if I am planning on 35 x 12.5 x15s? Sounds like I will have to find some with at least 4.5" backspacing, but will that be enough?
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:46 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proudowner2015 View Post
After reading lysdexic's post I did a little searching, and there are a lot of people with wheel rub on these RK front LCAs. Most of them seem to be running 37s, but there are a few 35s out there.

Should I be worried about this if I am planning on 35 x 12.5 x15s? Sounds like I will have to find some with at least 4.5" backspacing, but will that be enough?
I'm at 4.25 BS with 37x12.50x17 and not even close to rubbing. I believe with same width tires and 4.5 BS you should be just fine.


EDIT:

Just saw you're looking at 15's. That's a whole different ballgame. Disregard.
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:29 AM
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Really good to hear that, thanks.
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:33 AM   #29
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I would go 17" for one simple reason better choices and when you go to 37's you will be happy you did��
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Old 02-23-2016, 11:30 AM
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Haha, this is what I love about the jeep community - any question about upgrades eventually gets answered with "Well, keep in mind that one day you're gonna put 37's on it" -- and you're not wrong!

I've now spent way too much time today already looking at wheel options with 4.5 backspacing. In my mind, I feel like my black unlimited rubi with the trektop could look great with some gunmetal wheels, but I can't seem to find any pics that show the look I'm going for.

But, trying to make lemonade out of lemons here, I think I've come up with the perfect idea for my next mod: A slot on the side of my jeep where I can directly deposit my paycheck! (:SmileyThatStartsWithLaughterAndSlowlyTurnsToTear s

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