2016 brake pedal switch wire for brake controller? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 06-09-2016, 06:45 PM
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2016 brake pedal switch wire for brake controller?

Anyone know which wire is the one for the brake switch? I know which connector it is, but I'm not sure which individual wire it is. For added fun, I'm color blind so a color and position would be much appreciated!

For those that did this, how did you splice in? Did you just use a quick connect, or some other method?

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Old 06-11-2016, 03:31 PM
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Old 06-11-2016, 03:56 PM   #3
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I have the wiring diagram for the 2015's , so it should be the same for the 2016's.

Anyway it looks like the White/Tan wire coming from the brake light switch is probably the one as it is labeled 'Brake Lamp Switch Output'.

Attached is the pdf of the braking system wiring.
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File Type: pdf BRAKE-SYSTEM.pdf (305.3 KB, 401 views)
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Old 06-11-2016, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevepsd View Post
I have the wiring diagram for the 2015's , so it should be the same for the 2016's.

Anyway it looks like the White/Tan wire coming from the brake light switch is probably the one as it is labeled 'Brake Lamp Switch Output'.

Attached is the pdf of the braking system wiring.
Perfect! Thanks! That jives with the older ones as well, so I think it's good to go.
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Old 06-12-2016, 12:00 AM   #5
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I just wired up a brake controller and this is how I made the splice. Unhook the door strap, caution lay a rug over the hood so the mirror doesn't dosen't dent the hood, peal back the tape on the brake switch wires-remove the brake switch (mount is slotted-rotate about 30 degrees and it will pull out-remove the christmas tree wiring harness connector, (folllow wires up to find it) and the brake switch will hang down enough to work on. Cut the white wire with the brown stripe-butt splice (2) 12-inch 16/18 gage wires into both of the cut ends of white/brown wire-use a butt splice to connect the two 12-inch wires connected to the brake switch white/brown wire to the brake controller blue wire. Splicing in the 12-inch extension wires will make the splicing easier-put everything back together and take 4 Advil for the pain in your back. I have never had good luck using quick connectors in 18 gage wire which is why I used butt splices. Good luck.
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:34 PM   #6
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Dang that's difficult

I too needed to tap into the brake switch for my brake controller. I've been doing custom car stereo installations for +30 years having worked my way through college putting in 20-30 systems a week for four years ... this is a son-of-a-bitch.



I could only get one hand and a couple of lame fingers into the area making everything difficult. If I were to do it again I'd find the light in the tail light and run the 12 feet of wire forward to the brake controller for my travel trailer. Once I had the switch twisted free and a plug disconnected up high on the dash I was able to use a 3M inline splicer (which I hate preferring always to solder instead).

Putting the switch back into place I found somehow it was locked in yet 3/16" from touching the pedal. Damn it. I pulled the switch out of the harness to check if it was adjustable ... not that I could see. I ended up wrapping the brake pedal bar with layer after layer of tape until it touched again ... all with one hand.

This was as back breaking as putting on my suspension 8-control arms and putting on my front and rear bumpers was way easier. I may never use my right arm or foot again.

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Old 12-28-2016, 09:59 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by ProgRockPaul View Post
I too needed to tap into the brake switch for my brake controller. I've been doing custom car stereo installations for +30 years having worked my way through college putting in 20-30 systems a week for four years ... this is a son-of-a-bitch.



I could only get one hand and a couple of lame fingers into the area making everything difficult. If I were to do it again I'd find the light in the tail light and run the 12 feet of wire forward to the brake controller for my travel trailer. Once I had the switch twisted free and a plug disconnected up high on the dash I was able to use a 3M inline splicer (which I hate preferring always to solder instead).

Putting the switch back into place I found somehow it was locked in yet 3/16" from touching the pedal. Damn it. I pulled the switch out of the harness to check if it was adjustable ... not that I could see. I ended up wrapping the brake pedal bar with layer after layer of tape until it touched again ... all with one hand.

This was as back breaking as putting on my suspension 8-control arms and putting on my front and rear bumpers was way easier. I may never use my right arm or foot again.

the switch is adjustable, just pull out on the plunger. The important part of removing and reinstalling the switch is to remember the position of the switch before removing. When you reinstall place switch back in same position, one finger behind the switch so you can feel entry into he square mounting slot then a 30 degree turn to lock it in.. Once you get the switch out and the lower dash panel, (it snaps right off) you have all kinds of slack to install but splice etc... For me, it was the easiest part of the electric brake install.
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Old 12-28-2016, 10:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProgRockPaul View Post
I too needed to tap into the brake switch for my brake controller. I've been doing custom car stereo installations for +30 years having worked my way through college putting in 20-30 systems a week for four years ... this is a son-of-a-bitch.



I could only get one hand and a couple of lame fingers into the area making everything difficult. If I were to do it again I'd find the light in the tail light and run the 12 feet of wire forward to the brake controller for my travel trailer. Once I had the switch twisted free and a plug disconnected up high on the dash I was able to use a 3M inline splicer (which I hate preferring always to solder instead).

Putting the switch back into place I found somehow it was locked in yet 3/16" from touching the pedal. Damn it. I pulled the switch out of the harness to check if it was adjustable ... not that I could see. I ended up wrapping the brake pedal bar with layer after layer of tape until it touched again ... all with one hand.

This was as back breaking as putting on my suspension 8-control arms and putting on my front and rear bumpers was way easier. I may never use my right arm or foot again.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/tr...r-1750993.html
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:51 AM   #9
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Check out this page from etrailer: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/201...gler+Unlimited
It has a bunch of installation videos which appear to be pretty helpful, showing all the installation steps they take. Covers all the items needed to turn a Wrangler into a toad - tow bar, lights, brake relay, charging cable, etc.
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Old 12-29-2016, 11:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt JK View Post
the switch is adjustable, just pull out on the plunger. The important part of removing and reinstalling the switch is to remember the position of the switch before removing. When you reinstall place switch back in same position, one finger behind the switch so you can feel entry into he square mounting slot then a 30 degree turn to lock it in.. Once you get the switch out and the lower dash panel, (it snaps right off) you have all kinds of slack to install but splice etc... For me, it was the easiest part of the electric brake install.
Thanks I'll give the adjustment a try. I looked at it hard and didn't see anything. I was tempted to pull off the front of the dash for access. If this works I owe you a beer!


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