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Old 06-06-2015, 05:53 PM
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3.21 Gears? Towing?

Guys. I'm fairly close to choosing the wrangler unlimited that I'll be purchasing. I have a question about the gears...

It has the 3.21 gears. No hitch. I know I can get the hitch from Amazon cheap. But my question is wheather or not I'll mess up the jeep towing.

I would be towing about 2500 lbs around town. No more then 15 miles.

I'm on my phone so searching isn't that easy.

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Old 06-06-2015, 06:01 PM   #2
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If you haven't bought it yet I would keep looking for one with 3.73s If you plan on towing quite a bit.

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Old 06-06-2015, 06:06 PM   #3
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I have 3.21 gears and I have pulled a 1200lb enclosed trailer on 500 mile trips 6 times and no issues at all average speed 60mph.
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Old 06-06-2015, 06:08 PM   #4
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You are fine. I have 35's and its a dog. Still wouldnt hesitate to tow around town. Interstate NO WAY. Roads above 50? NO WAY.

But around town will be fine. Up super steep hills? Your clutch will hate you if you have a stopsign up hill :}
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Old 06-06-2015, 06:21 PM   #5
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The 3.21's are the base gears. You really want to always get the 3.73 or 4.10 if you tow anything. 3.21 is only designed for the small tire and 16 inch wheel. I know they work with other combos but there is a world of difference when you drive two back to back with different gears.
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Old 06-06-2015, 06:37 PM   #6
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I would have thought twice before getting the 3.21's. Had I known to look for that. It will work but if there is another option I would go with lower gears. If its a great deal and you really won't be towing all the time it will do the job.
Mine tows fine I have done 400 mile trips and even did the blue ridge parkway while towing a trailer 1800-2000 lbs. Spent a lot of time shifting though.
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:32 PM   #7
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3.21's are rated for 2000 lbs max. It'll move 2500, and for occasional use it'd probably be OK. I'd hold out for one with the tow package and 3.73gears rated for 3500 lbs. you'll be much happier even when not towing.
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:50 PM
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thanks for the advice guys. the boat launch isnt far away but i wanted to check. I havent gotten it yet but it seems like finding the a jeep that meets my criteria is getting pretty tough.
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Old 06-06-2015, 08:32 PM   #9
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You may have to order what you need and at that it will be a 2016, unless the dealer you work with can find one in their region. Your salesman can access the inventory of all the dealerships in the area. Then it's up to the sales manager/owner to purchase the vehicle. Dealerships trade vehicles all the time.

You can do something similar. However, it will take you longer. The salesman can enter what equipment you feel you must have and then he gets a list of vehicles, you have to go dealership site by dealership site. Go on Jeep.com, go to find a dealer and put in your zip code and and it will list all the dealers in about a 100 mile radius. You can then browse their inventory, check each vehicle for details and even look at the Manufacturers Sticker listing all the options. Of course the one you are looking for is the Max Towing Package. Make sure it has the MAX Towing Package not the Towing Package. Both have the hitch and wiring, but only the Max Towing Package includes the change in the Final Drive Ratio to 3.73
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:24 PM   #10
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It is tough to find. Had my two door with 3.73s transfered down from 180 miles away. Oddly it didn't come with the tow package.
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:47 PM   #11
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Willie's edition should all be 3.73 hope that helps with the search. I tow a 1500lb pop up with my 2012 2 door, 3.73 and 33s. 6th gear kinda useless on highway.
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Old 06-06-2015, 11:42 PM   #12
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If buying the Unlimited 4 door, you may want to hold out for the 3.73 gears. If it were a JK 2 door I would advise that the wheelbase is the limiting factor to towing over 2000 lbs.
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:45 AM   #13
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While the two door towing is the same regardless. If you're able to hold out I would try to find a 3.73 regardless. Think about it. I doubt you have ever read on here someone regretting 3.73s and wish they had gotten 3.21s. It's always the other way around.
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Old 11-16-2019, 09:02 AM   #14
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I got a JKU 2014 with 3.21 gearing. Currently running 285 70 17 on a '18 Hardrock take offs. Also have a set of 35 on 20' mudders. I put the superchips traildash 2 in and notice it has the tow option.... also, put in the Fishbone rear bumper with carrier. (Very heavy setup) I notice that folks say that it is recommended to pull 3500 lb? I know it will do it of course, but wonder how the traildash settings in tow mode will help or ???? Just asking......
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Old 11-16-2019, 09:56 AM   #15
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Old 11-16-2019, 10:43 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddymech View Post
I got a JKU 2014 with 3.21 gearing. Currently running 285 70 17 on a '18 Hardrock take offs. Also have a set of 35 on 20' mudders. I put the superchips traildash 2 in and notice it has the tow option.... also, put in the Fishbone rear bumper with carrier. (Very heavy setup) I notice that folks say that it is recommended to pull 3500 lb? I know it will do it of course, but wonder how the traildash settings in tow mode will help or ???? Just asking......
It will be able to tow 3500 lbs, but in doing so it will be exceeding its legal tow rating and it will be a bit of a dog.
The lack of pulling power can be helped with gears, and the lack of stopping power can be helped with bigger brakes. But nothing can change the legal aspect of the tow rating.
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Old 11-16-2019, 10:49 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddymech View Post
I got a JKU 2014 with 3.21 gearing. Currently running 285 70 17 on a '18 Hardrock take offs. Also have a set of 35 on 20' mudders. I put the superchips traildash 2 in and notice it has the tow option.... also, put in the Fishbone rear bumper with carrier. (Very heavy setup) I notice that folks say that it is recommended to pull 3500 lb? I know it will do it of course, but wonder how the traildash settings in tow mode will help or ???? Just asking......
That's incorrect. 3.21 gears max is 2,000 pounds, the "tuner" makes no difference in tow capacity. I'd recommend regearing for your tire size, that will help with towing but won't change the "legal" limit of 2,000.

There's a sticky in the general forum with all JK tow specs LINK
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Old 11-16-2019, 02:53 PM   #18
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If you tow any where near the tow limit install a brake controller on the jeep and get a trailer or put brakes on the trailer. Other items if you are near the limit is an anti sway bar setup and keep the speed down.

The factory tow package only gets you lower gears , a 4 flat wiring and heavier springs in the back.

If buying new and you know you are going to regear anyway. Just get the basics then regear, put some heavy springs on , the hitch, the 7 way wiring and brake controller.


I got factory tow as I did not intend to do anything other than the gears that come with the tow package. I added the brake controller and 7 way wiring . Left 4 way in place so as to have both.
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Old 11-16-2019, 04:27 PM   #19
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First lets clear up a few things. There is no such thing as a legal tow limit at least until we start talking about a lot more weight than a Wrangler can tow. What is in the book is what the manufacturer states are the tow ratings, this is not law. Exceeding the manufactures tow ratings can have civil and criminal consequences as well as void you warranty. If involved in an accident and you are towing over weight you could be found negligent and this can lead to a whole slew of problems. Also understand that even if pulling within the spec if your trailer is load incorrectly or you are using to small of hitch you could also be cited for negligence.

Now back to the question @Daddymech asked. What the tow tune does is remaps the throttle to come on quicker and a slight tune to allow for earlier torque and the reason for running 92 octane fuel. While this is fine a dandy you 3.21 gears are your real limitations especially coupled with 35 inch tires. Even towing only 2000 lbs is putting a lot of strain on the drive train.
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Old 11-21-2019, 10:10 AM   #20
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The thing that rates vehicles for towing is typically braking capability. Yah, I know Wrangler people love to replace gears and all for towing or for bigger tires or for offroad crawling. There's a different solution that doesn't even involve tools. So it depends if you have a manual or automatic transmission. If you have a manual, run in a lower gear and leave it there longer before shifting up. If you have an automatic, hit the shifter to the left and it'll go into manual mode. Now you can hold it in a lower gear longer and shift at a higher rpm. What matters with gearing is what's your rpm and what's your engine speed. Running in a gear at 3000 rpm with a 3.21 is no different from running in another gear with 5.38's in a higher gear and same road speed at 3000 rpm.

If you're really concerned, upgrade your brakes.
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Old 11-21-2019, 12:13 PM   #21
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The thing that rates vehicles for towing is typically braking capability. Yah, I know Wrangler people love to replace gears and all for towing or for bigger tires or for offroad crawling. There's a different solution that doesn't even involve tools. So it depends if you have a manual or automatic transmission. If you have a manual, run in a lower gear and leave it there longer before shifting up. If you have an automatic, hit the shifter to the left and it'll go into manual mode. Now you can hold it in a lower gear longer and shift at a higher rpm. What matters with gearing is what's your rpm and what's your engine speed. Running in a gear at 3000 rpm with a 3.21 is no different from running in another gear with 5.38's in a higher gear and same road speed at 3000 rpm.

If you're really concerned, upgrade your brakes.
While I do agree brakes should be upgraded even in the stock configuration brakes have nothing to do with the ratings on the JK. Gears are the only thing that determine tow rating 2000 vs 3500.

Gears aside payload capacity is what will determine what you can actually pull. In the stock configuration my Jeep has a payload capacity of 674 lbs. You can find that on the yellow sticker on the door. Now subtract passenger and cargo weight and what is left is how much weight you can put on the tongue. At best in the if I was still stock I would only have 170 lbs for tongue weight, that is just me and the wife with no cargo. Using the 10 percent rule that is a 1700 lbs trailer.
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Old 11-21-2019, 12:16 PM   #22
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Drivetrain, brakes, they are all important of course, but the primary limiting factor on the Wrangler series is the short wheelbase (especially on the 2 door) and the handling characteristics of the vehicle, and the resultant stability when towing (or lack of it.) Newer models (perhaps 2012 on) with the towing package have electronic sway mitigation which might help a bit, but I'd test and become very familiar with the stability of the combined rig when towing anything with a Wrangler, regardless of weight. Unstable tow combinations are no fun at all and dangerous as f..k. Slow speeds and 'around town only' help, but funny how distances and speeds tend to creep up.
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Old 11-21-2019, 06:14 PM   #23
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Drivetrain, brakes, they are all important of course, but the primary limiting factor on the Wrangler series is the short wheelbase (especially on the 2 door) and the handling characteristics of the vehicle, and the resultant stability when towing (or lack of it.) Newer models (perhaps 2012 on) with the towing package have electronic sway mitigation which might help a bit, but I'd test and become very familiar with the stability of the combined rig when towing anything with a Wrangler, regardless of weight. Unstable tow combinations are no fun at all and dangerous as f..k. Slow speeds and 'around town only' help, but funny how distances and speeds tend to creep up.
Wheelbase is not a consideration, look at the 16-18 JK's, 2 door or 4 door limits are the same. Stability in towing has much more to do with the type of trailer being towed, the way the trailer is load and speed. Type of trailer will determine stability in the wind, a teardrop will be less affected than a conventional trailer. Tongue weight will determine how well it pulls at speed. Load the trailer wrong and I don't care the type of vehicle you have the trailer is swaying once you hit speed. If you plan on 60 mph plus you must have 10% on the tongue.

All JK's from 2011 and on have trailer sway control standard. The model years 2009-2010 you need to have the towing package to have it. 2009 seems to be the first model year it was offered. There is confusion whether it can be retrofitted. Some people have said yes and had it done while others say no it can't be done. While I think this is a good thing any time your trailer reach 50% of the tow vehicles weight a mechanical sway device should be considered.
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Old 11-21-2019, 06:30 PM   #24
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Regardless of what magic occurred in 2016 to up the 2-door rating to 3500 lbs, wheelbase is always a significant factor in tow vehicle stability. It's just a matter of physics.
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Old 11-21-2019, 06:48 PM   #25
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Regardless of what magic occurred in 2016 to up the 2-door rating to 3500 lbs, wheelbase is always a significant factor in tow vehicle stability. It's just a matter of physics.
Yes it is a matter of physics but trailer sway is a phenomenon of tongue weight and speed. Tow vehicle makes no difference. Hook a 600 lbs trailer behind a semi with zero tongue weight and the trailer will be dancing the jig, the semi might not even feel it. But there cars all around it will be diving for cover. Also if wheelbase is the determine factor why do standard cab pickups get a higher rating than crew cabs for conventional towing? Payload is the big factor, it allows for more tongue weight meaning more trailer weight.

And it is not magic, it is SAE spec J-2807.
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Old 11-21-2019, 07:14 PM   #26
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If you are in Baltimore, can't swing a cat without hitting a Jeep dealership. One of those dealers should have what you are looking for.
I am headed that way tomorrow to shop for a JT
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Old 11-26-2019, 10:05 AM   #27
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Yes it is a matter of physics but trailer sway is a phenomenon of tongue weight and speed. Tow vehicle makes no difference. Hook a 600 lbs trailer behind a semi with zero tongue weight and the trailer will be dancing the jig, the semi might not even feel it. But there cars all around it will be diving for cover. Also if wheelbase is the determine factor why do standard cab pickups get a higher rating than crew cabs for conventional towing? Payload is the big factor, it allows for more tongue weight meaning more trailer weight.

And it is not magic, it is SAE spec J-2807.
Wheelbase is everything when towing. I towed a racecar with a TJ back in the day. I can't even count how many scary incidents occurred and the placement of the racecar had to be near perfect to prevent complete unsafe operation. This was a 900 pound aluminum 14' open trailer with a 1600 pound car. All tools, spare tires, etc were put in the jeep just to keep the trailer weight down. I upgraded to a Yukon XL and it was night and day, where the trailered car had so little effect, I actually stopped on the way home one night because I feared I lost the trailer. Had to get out to be sure it was still there. The dynamics of the trailer will matter....I completely agree with you on that. But the tow vehicle weight and wheelbase matter.
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Old 11-29-2019, 10:07 PM   #28
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I tow a 10 foot enclosed with 3.21 gears, for now, changing to 4.88 very soon when I change tires. I tow every weekend for my business. Trailer weight is 1000 pounds. When I load it to 2500 pounds, it is a dog off the line but handles fine once it gets going.



Key, IMHO, is tongue weight. 10 percent is a minimum. Gears just help you get going, everything else is the same. Just DO NOT go below 10 percent tongue weight.


Previously I towed a 16 foot tandem trailer 6 days a week with a ram 2500. I always made sure tongue weight was well above 10 percent.
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Old 11-29-2019, 11:31 PM   #29
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I tow a 10 foot enclosed with 3.21 gears, for now, changing to 4.88 very soon when I change tires. I tow every weekend for my business. Trailer weight is 1000 pounds. When I load it to 2500 pounds, it is a dog off the line but handles fine once it gets going.



Key, IMHO, is tongue weight. 10 percent is a minimum. Gears just help you get going, everything else is the same. Just DO NOT go below 10 percent tongue weight.


Previously I towed a 16 foot tandem trailer 6 days a week with a ram 2500. I always made sure tongue weight was well above 10 percent.
Again tongue weight and speed are linked hand in hand. To little tongue weight for the speed driven and the trailer will start to sway. To much tongue weight and you can pick the front tires off the ground on a bump and lose control and with the JK's limited payload this can be a problem.


There are many ways to load out a trailer and each instance is unique. With my Jeep I tend to go 10% or less and keep my speed under 60 mph. When I had my dually I shot for 15% and would drive whatever the speed limit was. Until you find the combo that works for you invest in a tongue weight scale and make sure you weight the trailer prior to pulling any distance. This is good practice anyway regardless of how much you tow. Better to spend a few bucks up front than have an issue on the road.

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